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        Discussion Building table for precise indoor foamies??

#1 jhicks Sep 30, 2012 01:44 PM

Building table for precise indoor foamies??
 
Hey guys,

When i moved from Ohio to Texas I lost my building table. I was curious what you guys are using to build your indoor pattern planes on.
Im trying to find something. Really would like just a light board I can pickup and move.

What are you guys using?

Thanks,
Jamie Hicks

#2 acetech09 Sep 30, 2012 04:33 PM

I do most of my builds on a sacrificial 3/4" OC pink foam insulation sheet. You can get a huge-ass sheet of it for about $18 at home depot, and that cuts down into 2 good-size boards. It doesn't get damaged too easily, glues normally peel right off the plastic film, and you don't damage your knife when you cut through what you're cutting. Really handy.

#3 Not Free Sep 30, 2012 11:45 PM

I use a cork board, a wood desk:o, and a wood floor :o
I do NOT recommend either of these options:D


Not Free

#4 mammuth Oct 01, 2012 02:27 AM

Just stay away from any brand new table you just bought for your living room - I think you can see were I'm going with it ..... :D

#5 ChrisBowker Oct 01, 2012 09:43 AM

I think you'll have difficulties finding something portable and true. I bought an old pool table off craigslist, pulled the slate off it and built a new frame from 3/4" birch ply to hold two of the pieces end to end, it made a 32x98" table, perfect for most RC building needs...but its about 300-400 lbs put together so not very portable.

If you need a lighter weight solution you might try looking for a solid core door, I use to build on one when I was a kid, worked fine for a lot of years.

Chris

#6 Boogie3D Oct 01, 2012 04:13 PM

I just use a MDF 40x40" (1mx1m) 1 inch thick board placed on normal table. It is very true after 4 years of being used and when you just finish building planes you put the board between a wardrobe and wall :)

#7 tware Oct 01, 2012 10:04 PM

not really a master builder here, but I really like this stainless steel table I got at Sams Club. It's a prep table on wheels. It has a very thick top, not prone to warp or bend. the bottom shelf is wire. most of all, I can wheel it around, which as been convenient (moving it out of the way).

oh, found the link. I've purchased these for tech benches at work too, they have always been under $100 in store, regardless what the website says.
http://www.samsclub.com/sams/work-ta...p-49/145625.ip

#8 tware Oct 01, 2012 10:07 PM

Also worth mentioning, CA doesn't readily bond to it. When CA leaks through the joint I'm gluing, I can always slide it free without damage to the foam. often its hardly stuck at all. And I can clean the table with acetone when it gets really messy. Only downside is working with electronics and batteries on a steel table, but that's not really a big deal.

#9 Batmanwpg Oct 01, 2012 10:08 PM

Probably not what your looking for but I use an old heavy metal business desk. The top is very flat and has metal under the plastic skin top. This allows me to use magnets to hold parts in place when building. This is very helpful when building foamies. The magnets are from damaged brushless motors not worthy of repair. You can get a lot of magnets from just one motor and plenty strong enough to hold parts in place.

#10 xtremeRCpilot Oct 02, 2012 07:04 AM

I use a piece of 1/2" plate glass about 30" x 48" and it is about as true of a surface as you will find. I robbed it off an old table topper we had and just use a razor to remove any CA from the surface. Im sure you could find one a little bigger but I have built up to 36" wing span foamies on mine. You could also wrap it in cardboard if you need to transport it to hobby venues :)

Cheers
John

#11 Hubb Oct 02, 2012 03:10 PM

I use a piece of 3/4" Lexan approx 2' x 4' (about the size of a ceiling tile)

#12 crossup Oct 04, 2012 12:12 PM

I use two pieces of 1"x 18"x 48" laminated(real wood, not pressboard etc) counter top(Homedepot).
Then I clamp the two pieces side by side with a 3mm gap using two 36" pieces of 2" steel angle iron(also HD) and large C-clamps.
That gives me a slot to hang the fuselage halves thru. Once the foam is all glued I do the CF bracing on the bottom on the wing and tail and fuselage while the top hangs down thru the slot.

To keep from gluing things to the board, I use Towerhobby building table film...nothing sticks to that stuff and a 25' roll is pretty cheap.

Oh and I use a HD 'Workmate' clone portable carpentry table to set the above assemblly on.
The clamps hold the split table above the Workmate table and gives me plenty of depth for tall fuselage to hang down(the Workmate frequently isn't deep enough by itself, if the fuse isnt too long of deep you can just use the workmate by itself but you will have a lot of overhang of the wings so I use my split table for every build.

#13 Free Oct 04, 2012 03:09 PM

Right now I am using a big sheet of 1/4" plastic.

Free

#14 hpapilot Oct 08, 2012 02:18 PM

3/4" thick fiberglass skin, nomex core honeycomb panel... pretty darn hard to beat that. Kinda hard to find though...

#15 jhicks Oct 08, 2012 05:35 PM

yes i know rj. ;)


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