Exceed "Dragon Snap" 720 EP performance questions - MINI REVIEW
(MINI REVIEW ON PAGE 2)
I have just recently purchased this boat and have a few questions. Here is a link: http://www.nitrorcx.com/99b-10022-snap-720-ep-artr.html
These are the factory specs:
Hull Type: Fiberglass Dee V
Motor: 2848-2636KV water-cooled brushless
Propeller: Carbon-reinforced plastic D36*P1.4 3-blade
Driveline: Flex drive
Hardware: CNC aluminum strut and rudders
Radio (Required): 2 channel
Battery (Required): 11.1v 2100-4500mAh LiPo
MY TWO QUESTIONS:
1.) I hear that the plastic 3-blade prop is soft and hinders the models stock performance. I have no clue as to what a good 2-blade metal prop would be. What would you guys recommend? (I would only be using 3s for this.)
2.) I also just ordered a Turnigy Marine 60amp esc for this model for when I decide to run it on 4s instead of the recommended 3s. Do you think that the stock motor will be able to handle 4s with the upgraded 60amp esc? If so, do I need to get yet another propeller for the 4s setup?
Thank you so much for any info guys!! Ive been into planes for about 8 years, but am just now taking the dive into boats and have no clue about this stuff lol.
Cheers to all, Jordan.
that motor wont handle 4s
1 too high KV
2 the driveline wont handle it is only 3.2mm flexi
3 the bearings in the stinger will collapse from too high rpm
You need to change the stinger for a teflon bearing setup
replace motor with 2850 1800-2200kv
youll more than likely need a higher amp esc
you can get the mettal versions of that prop but if you plan on changing the setup too 4s a x438/3 or a x440/2 will be best
also add some turn fins
When you go to run 4s your CG will change best to do it 2 x 2s packs either side of the hull to fix the cg and balance
A guy down my old boat club tried as above and failed it ended up in the rubbish bin after he smashed it up cos he didnt listen LOL
If you follow like iv said youll be sorted ;)
F1 is spot on...
Please learn to drive this boat as it comes out of the box.
Before you hit the water keep in mind there's no such thing as RTR!
The boat is assembled at the factory in China (often not very good), so make sure you check every nut and bolt, secure them with Loctite if required.
Check for leaks (the hole where the silicon tubing from the rudder and the black rubber thingy that covers the pushrod are two points of interest) and seal them prior to flooding your boat on the maiden run.
Make sure the flexshaft is lubricated and has a small gap between the propnut and the rear bearing (a flexshaft contracts under load).
Remove, dry and relube the flexshaft after every day of running the boat.
Thank you guys so much for the helpful info! Im definitely planning on running it stock first for awhile so I can learn the handling characteristics.
Ive searched everywhere for the metal 3-bladed that would be a drop in replacement for the stock D36*P1.4 3-blade and cant seem to find one....Im sure im not looking in the right spots. F1, can you possibly provide me with a link to the prop you are referring to? Thanks so much!
Heres a link for your prop ;)
you could possilbly get away with this prop and its cheaper but will need sharping and balancing
Awesome, thank you for the links! The cheaper prop shows it is for a 3/16" shaft and the more expensive one is showing it is for a 4mm shaft. How do I know the shaft diameter of this model without having it in my possession yet? Do you see that info anywhere on the link in my first post? Sorry for all of the question, thanks so much.
The shaft you got is 4mm to use the 3/16 prop you can get a piece of thin walled brass tube to slide on to be able to run the 3/16 props
OD 3/16 with 4mm ID
Ill see if i can find 1 for you ;)
Here you go use this to run the 3/16 props
F1, you're amazing. Cant thank you enough!!
So it looks like the more expensive one would be straight bolt-on part with no extras needed? Looks like Ill just go that route and call it a day.
No probs bud glad to help :)
JG, I would like to jump on this band-wagon, I also just purchased this exact snap also, will also post here through my research and testing. Thanks to all that are helping us new-comers out.
to F1 Madness,
Do you think turn fins are needed based on the shape of the back of the boat?
Also, do you think trim tabs are needed on this?
It's a long sleek hull that will make wide turns at speed without handling issues.
Very narrow turns at speed may cause the occasional spin out, but that's just the pilot (you) not 'reading' the boat.
Every single prop driven boat will make narrower right hand turns due to the propwalk, left hand turns at speed will allways be wider (or end in a flip if you push it).
When the boat keeps spinning out in turns, adding a turnfin on the right (as the 'prefered' way of running a speedboat is large ovals with sweeping righthand turns) is an option.
"Trimtabs are a bandaid for a poor set-up"
Most Chinese manufacturers add bling bling in the form of trimtabs to whatever design boathull, regardless of the fact that most hulls can be set-up to perform fine without adding useless brakes.
Thanks, Jan, (aka pompebled). Very helpful info also from your post further up!
Agree with jan
But from seeing how 1 run i would advise putting a turn fin on it will help for sure
When running on the pool we were on he was having to slow right down to get it to turn because of the size and shape of pool i gave him a spare turn fin i had and made a world of difference full throttle turns with no issues
Phew!! Looks like I just snatched up the last 3-bladed venom aluminum prop. Im really excited to get this boat. I just ordered three of these as well for it: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=20706
I think they will be "healthy" for the stock set up and upgraded prop.
Would it be a good idea to install one of these auto-bailers into the hull?
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