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#1 Hircsailor Aug 15, 2012 06:50 PM

Tippecanoe T50 MOD
 
4 Attachment(s)
Since I said that I was building a T50 MOD while recoving from knee replacement several forum members have asked for some photos of the build.
I will post some of what I have but if you want to see good clear photos of a T50 build you need to go to Will Lesh website. www.modelsailboat.com/t50pics.html
as these are the ones that he uses in the assembly manual for the T50.
After looking at some of my photos I wounder how I passed High School wood shop class.

#2 breakwater Aug 16, 2012 04:59 PM

Pretty cool!

If interested, and built to the proper measurements, you can register that boat in the Marblehead Class when it is complete.

See this thread for more information:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...4#post22459702

Good luck with the remainder of your build & the remainder of your recovery!

#3 Fokker Ace Aug 16, 2012 08:24 PM

Looks great! Maybe I will build one this winter?

#4 Hircsailor Aug 17, 2012 12:28 AM

5 Attachment(s)
The orignal deck for the T50 was a three piece deck so Tippecanoe didn't offer the optional veneer deck for it. The updated kit now has a one pirce deck. Since the deck is flat with no camber to it and I had a dew sheets of veneer on hand I decided to plank the deck.
The first chore was to cut the veneer sheets down to 1/4 inch strips, I then traced the deck outline unto paper and laid out the deck pattern. I covered the pattern with plastic wrap put double side tape over the wrap and laided the veneer strips on the pattern. I then coated the underside of the one piece deck and carefully set it down on the planks. Put weights on the underside of the deck and let the expoy cure over night. The next day I lifted the deck off the pattern and trimmed to the deck outline. This is much easier that putting each strip down one at a time and turned out pretty good.
Next step is to add the underdeck support beams and build the turning pieces for the sail wich.

#5 lego34 Aug 22, 2012 07:43 PM

Thank you for the pictures, Your boat will be a beauty! To make the hull it looks like a lots of works! we are watching good work

#6 Hircsailor Aug 30, 2012 09:27 PM

This is late but thank you guys for your kind words. The hull looks hard but isn't that hard. I got up to finishing veneering the deck and the deck support beams along with making up the turning circles for the sail winch lines. Then I got pushed off the kitchen island as the wife had sewing that she wanted to do, so any building has been put on hold untill she's done( maybe this weekend). Can't wait to get started building again.

#7 Fokker Ace Aug 30, 2012 09:41 PM

I think we share a similar building space dilemma!

The hull does look a little intimidating, glad to hear it only looks that way. Please post more photos as I would love to get myself one. And the other all varnished T boat in the background looks really sharp.

#8 Hircsailor Aug 31, 2012 02:35 AM

Fokker Ace thanks for the kind words about my building skills. As the builder I often think that I could have, should have done a better job building a beautful boat. With that being said I am pleased with the way my T37 turnned out, wife said that it is to beautful to get wet and that it should stay on the wall. But both of us know better then that. As soon as I am able to walk into the pond to launch it My Girl will be chaseing the US1's and any other boat that shows up.

#9 Hircsailor Sep 10, 2012 02:45 AM

5 Attachment(s)
Wife has finally finished her sewing and our company has left so I have my work space back ( our kitchen island). I was able to do a couple of things done before dinner was ready, I got the under deck support beams expoxyed in and the turning circles made up. Dry fitted the keel and rudder and hope to expoxy them together tomorrow or the day after.

#10 jpatters Sep 10, 2012 12:56 PM

T50MOD decks
 
I built a T50MOD(hull #20) in late 2008 with the 3 piece deck. I kinda like the look of it because it's different and you can see everything under the deck. The main problem is condensation forming on the bottom surface of the clear plastic when the sun is out shining thru the plastic. Then you can't see anything under deck!
With the full deck, I see that the turning circles probably have extended tubing to the hatch area so that spectra line can be replaced. I guess the servo also pulls the sheets in and out of the tubes? If possible, please post a picture of the under deck servo and lines before the full deck is installed.

#11 Hircsailor Sep 10, 2012 02:08 PM

jpatters you are correct in that the spectra runs thru the tubing to and from the dervo. The servo is set up on the right side and the sheets are attached to the spectra line on the left side to a loop and knot in the spectra line. Then the sheets run thru some eyebolts to pass thru the deck to sails. I plan to contune to keep taking pictures as I build and post them. I hope that others will find them interesting as Will uses a different way of building the hull without interior bulkheads.
jpatters how do you like your T50? I have a T37x that I love the looks of and the way that it sails.

#12 jpatters Sep 10, 2012 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hircsailor (Post 22694581)
...
jpatters how do you like your T50? I have a T37x that I love the looks of and the way that it sails.

I built a T37 too about a year before building the T50 in 2008. The only two significant builds I've ever done. Took me a LOT of time to build. Probably 10 times what it takes you.;) But I enjoyed it.

Performance opinion after sailing in lots of wind and wave conditions:
Can be very fast with the wind, especially on a reach. Upwind average. Not that great in very low wind. T50 is a lot faster than T37. Best big jib sailing is 5-8 mph(what I enjoy). Big jib not good above 8 mph. T50 can take most wave and wind conditions with right sails.

Build cautions:
The 1/16" brass rod for rudder control(from the servo) would bend up when under stress. Had to make a mod to control it. A bigger rod may be supplied now. Make sure when building everything that the rod is not binding in the cf tube that it passes thru when going back.
The supplied cf mast could bend forward with the wind. Stronger mast found by Will and probably now supplied.
This is old info but may be useful...

#13 Hircsailor Sep 11, 2012 02:02 AM

Will now uses 1/8" stainless steel rod of #316 alloy. I had a little trouble bending the rod in the correct place but maanaged to get the job done. I was more worried about getting the angle right than I was about bending the rod. I use axle grease on the rudder rod when putting the rudder on.Like you I built the T37 about 1 1/2 years before buying the T50. But I fell in love with the T50 when I saw Wills pictures of it. Now that I am on medical leave from work I have time to build one, that is when I can get the Kitchen island to work on.

#14 Hircsailor Sep 11, 2012 02:13 AM

I mistook what you said about the rudder control rod, I thought that you were talking about the rudder shaft. You are very right about the 1/16" brass rod bending under stress. That is what I have in the T37 and I am getting ready to change it. My T50 came with a1/16" stainless steel rudder pushrod same as the rudder shaft. I might change the connection at the control horn to some thing that I can adjust so I don't have to worry abut getting the rod to the right length.

#15 Hircsailor Oct 08, 2012 06:04 PM

Added new pictures of my T50 build on the Tippecanoe page.


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