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        Discussion Saito FG-21 gasser

#1 skypup Jul 26, 2012 03:45 PM

Saito FG-21 gasser
 
I received my new Saito FG-21 gasser this week. Looks really nice. It has the rcxl ignition, new carb and valve seats. I'll post as I bench test and begin to fly in a seaqgull Spacewalker II 120.

#2 Fokker DII Jul 26, 2012 05:02 PM

Great. I love the FG14 and will be going to a 21 later. Keep us informed :D

#3 earlwb Jul 26, 2012 05:04 PM

You are a lucky guy. Do let us know how it goes with it.

#4 skypup Jul 26, 2012 05:11 PM

tank lines
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Fokker DII (Post 22274182)
Great. I love the FG14 and will be going to a 21 later. Keep us informed :D

Like to know how to set up my tank lines. I have a sintered filter on the carb pick up line. I have a normal second line with the brass tube bent to the top of the tank. The filter instructions tell you not to fill thru the carb line. Does this mean I should run a third line? The manual suggests running the engine dry at the end of a session. If I cannot easily get to the engine carb line (engine will be cowled) how will I run it dry? The manual also tells you not to put remaining tank fuel back in to the same container. Any thoughts are appreciated.

#5 skypup Jul 26, 2012 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by earlwb (Post 22274200)
You are a lucky guy. Do let us know how it goes with it.

I know. I was going to use a dle 20 in my new spacewalker II 120. The plane really needs a four stroke sound so I finally bit the bullet and bought the saito. It has a new igniton made by rcexl, new carb design and new valve seats compared to the older FG-20. Hope I made a good choice here.

#6 skypup Jul 26, 2012 05:28 PM

some pics
 
5 Attachment(s)
A few pics:

#7 MercerMaggot Jul 26, 2012 09:53 PM

You should run three lines. For the carby feed line, use a Walbro felt clunk. You can buy them at any small engine (eg chainsaw) shop. They provide the best filtering and will continue to draw fuel even if only a small part of the clunk is covered/splashed.

The second line is for your vent. Make sue you wrap it around the tank once so it won't leak when you are flying inverted.

Your third line is for refueling/defueling and you can just use a normal sintered clunk. Make sure you close off the line with a cap for when the engine is running.

Try to minimise the length of fuel tubing for these engines as they can't suck very far.

Use a small fuel tank (maybe 100ml). This will last 15-20+ minutes. I have a FG-20 with a 400ml tank buried in the belly of the plane (eg hard to get at). I neglected a decent defueling line and it takes at least an hour of flying to fully run dry. These engines are super economical and you don't want or need a big tank with extra petrol sloshing around.

#8 skypup Jul 27, 2012 10:21 AM

loop around tank?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by MercerMaggot (Post 22276376)
You should run three lines. For the carby feed line, use a Walbro felt clunk. You can buy them at any small engine (eg chainsaw) shop. They provide the best filtering and will continue to draw fuel even if only a small part of the clunk is covered/splashed.

The second line is for your vent. Make sue you wrap it around the tank once so it won't leak when you are flying inverted.

Your third line is for refueling/defueling and you can just use a normal sintered clunk. Make sure you close off the line with a cap for when the engine is running.

Try to minimise the length of fuel tubing for these engines as they can't suck very far.

Use a small fuel tank (maybe 100ml). This will last 15-20+ minutes. I have a FG-20 with a 400ml tank buried in the belly of the plane (eg hard to get at). I neglected a decent defueling line and it takes at least an hour of flying to fully run dry. These engines are super economical and you don't want or need a big tank with extra petrol sloshing around.

Thanks for the help. Are you talking about literally wrapping a loop around the outside of the tank for the vent line?

#9 earlwb Jul 28, 2012 06:57 AM

You can do the loop like that. It depends on how much room you have to do it too.
But I simply run the vent tube up above the tank and then loop it down below the tank. With just a vent going above the tank, when you invert the plane, the vent now becomes a drain. So you need to have the vent line do a 180 degree turn and head down below the fuel tank too.
Here is one way I did it on a small gas engine and plane. You can see the vent line going up and over the spark plug wire and then down below the airplane too.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...g_field_04.jpg

#10 MercerMaggot Jul 29, 2012 10:08 PM

Yes, as Earl says.

#11 skypup Jul 31, 2012 08:20 PM

FG-21 running
 
I got the FG-21 running today. Started with a 15x8 Vess wooden and balanced prop. I kept it under 4000 rpm for the first 10 minutes as instructed. The mini tach worked great for a short time and started acting up. Not sure if it went bad so soon or not. Reverted back to my old glo bee optical tach. Could not get it to run at first. Switched to an electric starter for the first start. Started by hand after that. Engine is becoming much easier to start. I did some throttle variation and very briefly got it to 8000 rpm toward the end of today's run. I used the oil recommended by Horizon Hobby mixed at 20:1. Noticed black residue on the back of the prop and on the test stand. Any tuning tips before I remove it from the test stand are appreciated. I haven't touched the low speed needle yet. I want to be sure I am not running too lean Any ideas?. I've run thru one 6 ounce (177ML) tank and refilled and ran a little more. A great day. The throttle response seemed quite good. I'm not expecting a very low idle at this point. Anyone know how low of an idle I might get on a 15x8 or 16x6 prop?

#12 RGose Aug 01, 2012 04:30 AM

Thanks for the update, I am following this thread closely. Having returned to the hobby after a seven year hiatus, I have started back with medium (.25-.40) sized electrics with the intent of moving to gas later. The silence of the electrics is weird to me (especially on larger models) and some planes beg for the four stoke sound that completes the flying experience for me. Although I preferred Surpass 4S engines in the past, I was excited to learn that Saito was offering 4S gas engines, providing the 4S sound, gasoline economy, and easier cleanup. My initial research led me to believe the first generation (FG-20?) offerings were troublesome and not well received. I am assuming that some of these issues have hopefully been resolved? I have not found much info to determine that which is why I will be following your thread carefully. Good luck and thanks for the initial report!

#13 skypup Aug 01, 2012 06:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RGose (Post 22323499)
Thanks for the update, I am following this thread closely. Having returned to the hobby after a seven year hiatus, I have started back with medium (.25-.40) sized electrics with the intent of moving to gas later. The silence of the electrics is weird to me (especially on larger models) and some planes beg for the four stoke sound that completes the flying experience for me. Although I preferred Surpass 4S engines in the past, I was excited to learn that Saito was offering 4S gas engines, providing the 4S sound, gasoline economy, and easier cleanup. My initial research led me to believe the first generation (FG-20?) offerings were troublesome and not well received. I am assuming that some of these issues have hopefully been resolved? I have not found much info to determine that which is why I will be following your thread carefully. Good luck and thanks for the initial report!

You're welcome. I use to like os engines also. I have been flying mostly helicopters and electric planes since 1998. From 1964 to 1998 I of course used nitro engines. The Spacewalker II called for a four stroke like you suggest. I had a saito fg-14 but sold it before I really put it to the test. Another motor I was interested in is the Roto Motor 35 FS. Appears to be well made and would be great for scale.

http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/ROTO35FS.html

#14 RGose Aug 01, 2012 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skypup (Post 22323879)
You're welcome. I use to like os engines also. I have been flying mostly helicopters and electric planes since 1998. From 1964 to 1998 I of course used nitro engines. The Spacewalker II called for a four stroke like you suggest. I had a saito fg-14 but sold it before I really put it to the test. Another motor I was interested in is the Roto Motor 35 FS. Appears to be well made and would be great for scale.

http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/ROTO35FS.html

I have seen the ROTO, it looks very nice. I would be (perhaps wrongly) concerned myself about spending so much on an engine that doesn't have a large presence in the U.S. at this time. That always concerned me about the beautiful Laser engines, although Proctor has been carrying them for a long time. I haven't checked lately, but I never hear much about Enya or Irvine engines anymore. Saito and OS are safe bets and well established with major distributors.

I love electrics for the smaller planes, but I still have a soft spot for IC engines on the larger models.

#15 skypup Aug 01, 2012 03:04 PM

FG-21 vid
 
Today I converted my hobbico electric starter to run on my Dewalt drill's 18volt battery pack. It solved my lack of a new battery issue for the starter and boosted the torque. It starts the engine "without effort" now. I took the video and almost didn't post since my shirt wasn't pulled down in the back but figured the video was more important. I went out to test the starter and it was 100 plus degrees F here in San Antonio today so it was a fairly short test. I let the engine run for 10 minutes after the 4 minute video and it is responding to throttle quite well. I'm going to love this engine. Seems like a quality product and I love the sound.

fg 21 running (4 min 4 sec)


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