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        The Ultimate Slow Stick Help Thread - Part 2

#1 Martin Hunter Nov 17, 2003 12:51 AM

The Ultimate Slow Stick Help Thread - Part 2
 
This is the continuation of the thread started in this link:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hreadid=122951

Carry on :)

Martin

#2 bubbadice Nov 17, 2003 01:05 PM

I notice some wanting to mount the 400 motor in the SS. Maybe before going through any changes, ...the new 350C could be considered if performance is the reason. It's a perfectly sized swap/replacement. I found this info posted by an ezoner to GWS4CEO (Mr. Lin)

"But the part that surprised me is the 350 motor puts out 82 watts/12 amps! That's one great motor! As light as the 300 (2 oz lighter than the 400), but more power output than the 400. I can see why you are using it in all your new planes!

I started w/ the stock SS kit, and (2) 350C/D complete motor/GB's with the original order. I didn't listen to Boomerace, and started with the 350C/D motor / 9070 prop first. Yesterday I put the 300C/D motor / 1180 prop in service for the first time. WOW! I saw why boomer advised that. The plane was much easier (tame) to fly with the less power! I would have had to go out of my way to crash it!! Why didn't I listen to boomerace?, would have saved me a lot of heart-ache. I needed the repair experience anyway. :)
bubba
btw, can ya'll BELIEVE that 'porch door' hinge on ndflicks SS for a front wing mount? That blows me away, ...shows me not to ever limit possibilities when it comes to the SS. :D

#3 bubbadice Nov 17, 2003 05:42 PM

Speaking of repairing things...
 
1 Attachment(s)
I'm fighting to stay out of my spare SS kit for parts, while I fixed the previously posted damage of the 'snapped fuse'.
I fashioned an insert of hardwood, shaped in some down/right thrust, and coated the pcs. with 30 minute epoxy. I had to tap the pcs in, very tight fit. Since that is the weak area, I made the 'splint' to go in about 1 1/2" ea. side.

Part of posting this repair pic is I'm having another problem. The wire/plugs in the pic, ESC to motor, have lost any tension when connected. Before I experiment, I need some advice on that. (I want to avoid taping) I guess if you had to pick a connection to loose, it would be that one, ...but still. :D
Thanks guys.
bubba

#4 aeropenguin Nov 17, 2003 05:45 PM

Bubba, that looks really nice!! You haven't really weaked the fuse - you've done exactly what boomer recommends to do (on purpose) when doing the down/right thrust mod.
I mentioned the exact same thing at the beginning of the old thread, too (I think).
At least now you can use the higher experience gained from the stronger motor and have a more fun, relaxing time with the stock stick. :)
-Michael

#5 aeropenguin Nov 17, 2003 05:48 PM

Oh, just saw the second reply.
You can either bend the pins out a bit to create more friction, or...if you want to loose all of your connector headaches, exchange them all with Deans Ultras. They are far overkill, but I have never heard of them failing.
Loosing connectoion to the motor on the SS is no problem at all. It just glides right down like a beauty!
I'll upload a vid I have - one sec.
-Michael
EDIT: here's the movie:
www.michaels.rchomepage.com/looseProp.mpg
I recommend you download it then play it off the computer. ;)
It's not mine. I forgot who it's from, so if the owner happens to come across it, please tell me!

#6 William A Nov 17, 2003 05:53 PM

Grab both pins with a pair of pliers and give 'em a slight tweak.

#7 ndflicks Nov 17, 2003 06:05 PM

I second(third) bending the pins outward, kinda like you do on a wall wart when it's too loose to stay put.

Bill

#8 fumblethumbs Nov 17, 2003 06:56 PM

Those JST-like GWS connectors are a problem waiting to happen Bubba, especially if you plan to upgrade to a more amp-hungry setup. Frankly, I can't understand why they are included with GWS products other than IPS powered models, as they are considered rated for 3 amps continuous w/5-6 amp spikes. Solder the ESC directly to the motor leads, and replace the pack connector with Dean's, MP Jets, etc. . -thumbs

#9 bubbadice Nov 17, 2003 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by William A
Grab both pins with a pair of pliers and give 'em a slight tweak.
Yeah, AP's got a deal with Dean's Ultra's I think. He edited to include your FREE fix when he saw the sale was lost. :D I'm not ready to swap it all out to Dean's yet. Boomer thinks I'm alright for now.

I figured a 'tweak' would do it. Didn't want to mess up my ESC wiring, it's short enough as it is. ndflicks, the "King of Southern Engineering" concurs, ...it's a done deal. Thanks!
bubba
p.s. whups, hold on, I see Fumblethumbs has stepped up, I need to evaluate that, ...a little 'tweaking' in the meantime...
Ok, fumblethumbs says in part:
"Solder the ESC directly to the motor leads,..."
I'm not sure I can do that. I keep three complete motors ready to go at all times. I can bend a shaft, throw on a new motor in seconds. I think that plan doesn't 'marry' with the solder. I AM concerned though, my KAN's are supposed to be able to go 15-20amp burst. Dayum, maybe AP's made a sale after all. :D

I'm rapidly building up enough things for an order. (you know the shipping on small stuff) As I remember it, I get Dean's MALE's for the batt packs, and FEMALES for ALL other gear??

#10 aeropenguin Nov 17, 2003 07:57 PM

I bribed fumble :D :D :D
LOL - I actually have no clue what you are talking about - I am not selling any deans. When I edited my post, I just edited in the link to the movie.
You carry 3 complete motor sets with you to the field? :eek: I'm too lazy to find the tape to toss in the bag, let alone 3 spare motors! :)
-Michael

#11 bubbadice Nov 17, 2003 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by aeropenguin
I bribed fumble :D :D :D
LOL - I actually have no clue what you are talking about - I am not selling any deans. When I edited my post, I just edited in the link to the movie.
You carry 3 complete motor sets with you to the field? :eek: I'm too lazy to find the tape to toss in the bag, let alone 3 spare motors! :)
-Michael

You didn't include 'tweaking' any connectors till after William A did. That's what I was talking about. Sale is pending. :D
bubba

#12 ndflicks Nov 17, 2003 08:20 PM

LOL. King of Southern Engineering? I like that... Did I mention I had a big backyard? lol...

Speaking of Southern Engineering, I'm currently crossing a SS with a Mini Max... Yes, I bought yet another. These planes are so cheap I can buy kits, have wings and such to experiment with, and all kinds of spare parts. WOOHOO!

Now... Where's my duct tape???

Bill in the DELTA!!!!

EDIT... I like dean's connectors too, however, I see them as more of a "high amp" connector like on a wing or something with a 400. JST connectors have served me well, are affordable, and on a 370 or smaller motor, I have yet to see one melt, not even a little. Soldering is best, but not if you're experimenting with motors and/or gearboxes. That said.... Where's that duct tape?

#13 BrunswickOH Nov 17, 2003 08:22 PM

Bubba when you do switch your motor connectors I don't think you could do any better then Deans MICRO connectors, they're not the easiest to solder but they are a great motor connector the the GWS motors.

#14 aeropenguin Nov 17, 2003 08:30 PM

Sale is pending? Pending with who on what? I am not selling anything?!
-Michael

#15 aeropenguin Nov 17, 2003 08:36 PM

I find that if I get good conectors, I might as well use something that I'm gonna use with EVERYTHING. Also, say I go to the flying field to find I've left the batt at home. I caan borrow somebody else's, since everybody uses deans ultras...
Well - actually I use two types - the deans ultras, and another for micro planes (RFFS size). That means they use a 2g receiver, and the plane weighs 1.5oz RTF or less. If you are intersted, go to the indoor forum...
I can't believe the GWS connectors have an amp limit. Sheesh - if you get one dust spec stuck in the gearbox, you can be sure to loose the battery, ESC, motor, gearbox, and now connectors? :)
-Michael


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