Guillows kit 502, 16.5" span FW-190 conversion *Video added*
I've been on a bit of a micro model kick lately. :)
With the eventual success of my 500 series Hellcat and having always wanting a FW-190, figured why not give this one a go. I'll apply what I learned from the Hellcat to this one.
The plan is:
Control: AR6400, A/E/R/T control.
Power: Um 8mm motor/gearbox fed by a single cell 160 battery.
Prop: 3 blade um prop with scale (kit)spinner.
Airframe: Lightened and covered with tissue/dope. MM acryl finish, DIY decals.
Had the Guillows 190 kit in my stash so pulled it out to have a look and here's what I found.
A nice pretty box with color graphics. Decent Guillows plans. Plastic parts and a set of so-so decals.
The die crunching. Actually the cutting wasn't too bad because,,,
The wood was super hard. :( I mean super hard, brittle, stringy :censored:.
Hard wood usually means heavy, so I dropped it on the scale.
That stuff that is posing as balsa came in at a bit over 21lbs/cu ft! :eek:
Perfect for building a model railroad bridge but useless for a flying model, especially one this small! :mad:
Ok, no surprise, typical useless crap wood. This will be another one of those Guillows builds that all I use are the plans, canopy, cowl and maybe the decals.
Took the plans to work and copied them to cut up for part patterns.
I used the heat transfer method to make a set of printwood and fired up the trusty razor cutter.
Looking forward to this.
I know what you mean regarding the wood. The sheets on my 500 series Stuka were closer to oak than balsa. The rough fuse, lightened and without stringers was heavier than the completed recut fuse with stringers and a solid balsa and ply nose!
I'm not even sure that stuff would float let alone fly. ;)
Here's a pic of my Hellcat.
Had trouble getting it to fly properly due to a misdiagnosed trim problem. Kept moving the cg forward when the problem was actually thrust line related. Now the model flies very well but could use more aileron throw.
Glenn A++ on the Hellcat! :D:cool::D
The Guillows kits are like Cracker Jacks.....always a surprise inside. Usually a heavy one but sometimes something decent.
Is the heat Transfer method as easy as office copier and an iron? sure looks like a great way to do it.
This will be a great build. Watching with great anticipation. subbed in for the ride.
Oh don't get me started on China, Quality stuff is getting scarce.
I'm in ol' buddy. It'll be nice to see what you come up with (have come up with ;)
That Hellcat of yours looks really brilliant! I'm looking forward to your build while doing a Guillows conversion myself (Thomas Morse Scout S4C, laser-cut, http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1531879). The new laser-cut versions seem to have much better wood, let alone that the parts are precisely cut and fit perfectly.
You guy's amaze me, tackling these little wonders. If I were Guillows, I would not put the MADE IN U.S.A. on the lid. But, I guess we have to understand, just how many kits Guillows sells, that never get built. Never mind fly. I think us small scale builders/flyers, in recent yrs, have up-graded that flying percentage, for them.
I think there is enough of us, that guillows should consider a new or remake of some designs. Intended for "Craftsman" use.
Beauty of a finish on the Hellcat, looking forward to the FW even more now.
Question regarding the finish. I read so much concerning weight and painting, but you've done a nice solid coat. You use Model Master, I assume through an AB, have you even weighed it before and after?
I use Vallejo acrylics myself on static models. I lightly sanded some Aerolite (Solite) and sprayed it with a Dark German Camo and it held fine, but I really can't see the coat of paint adding any more weight than what I removed with the sanding.
I get if you're hitting a 1400mm foamie with a rattle can or brushing on Behr latex on it, the weight will add up, but Tamiya, MM or Vallejo through an AB on a non permeable surface?
Signing on, I know this one will be a good one to watch!
Me too. Glenn's always got a trick or two up his sleeve!
Excellent Glenn. I really want to get back on this one someday. I'll be following this build. I had this one flying a bit at an absurd weight, given all the nosewight, but I'm sure it can be done well. A gave up on it, as it was flying like crap at my weight. I love sheeted fuses for metal planes, but it's just not practical for this one. Actually it may be, if I had used extremely light 1/32" and replaced/lightened the frame wood.
I got wrapped up doing a major sewer pipe repair job and while I was fixing that everybody joined in! Fun stuff, under the house, cutting and gluing pipe, the whole nine yards... :rolleyes:
I'll try to answer everyone.
All, Thanks for the compliments on the Hellcat. It was a long road to get it trimmed out but now flies well. Last night I redesigned the aileron linkage system and now have much more throw. Tried to fly it this morning but it was way too windy and after crashing it 3 times I gave up. Nice thing about small models is they can crash into the grass and suffer no damage due to the low mass.
Yeah, it's that easy. Set copier contrast to as dark as you can before the lines get fuzzy and make copies.
Set the copies onto the wood. Set covering iron to high and iron the copy until the toner transfers. Sometimes it will warp the wood. If that happens place a plain piece of paper on the opposite side of the wood and iron until flat.
Dan, glad you joined in the fun.
Gupi, I've been following your build. I haven't tried one of the laser cut versions yet.
Fuzz, I find it more of a challenge to get the small ones to fly.
The Hellcat weighs 54 grams rtf with a 160 single cell. This is kind of on the porky side but it flies pretty good.
Ausf, The model is covered in the kit tissue that was given 2 coats of thinned dope then one light coat of color. I airbrushed on one light coat of MM, it covers the tissue very well.
I haven't tried the Vallejo paints only because nobody locally stocks them.
J.B. Still have one AR6400 waiting to put in a certain model, you now which one... ;)
Paul, tricks,,, me??? :)
Onna, I read through your thread, that was back when we didn't have the lightweight stuff we have now.
Yeah, I think a fully sheeted model would be even porkier than my 54 gram Hellcat!
This being a short nose model we need to eliminate as much tail weight as possible.
All the formers aft of the trailing edge were cut from light 1/32" sheet.
Here are a few pics of the basic fuse construction.
Next up is make the mount for the cowl. A second F1 former is made and shaped to just fit inside the cowl. It is aligned with the F1 on the fuse and pilot holes drilled through both pieces for the locating pins and magnets.
The pins are the point of a toothpick. Magnets are 1/16" dia.
A note about the pins and holes.
I drill a pilot hole first. The toothpick point is then used as a drill bit to size the hole. This results in a tapered hole that is then hardened with a drop of thin ca.
The center of the cowl mount ring will be cut out and glued into the cowl with canopy glue.
I'm a little late, but lovely work on the Hellcat and as usual I'll be watchin with interest. :popcorn:
Where do you get your 1/16" magnets?
I was in Hobby Lady picking up some basswood stringers and saw a Mustang that I had from the 900 series, they want $19 for it, jeeese. I got a bunch of these littles ones on the shelf and paid around half that. I think we have a little inflation going on. They do have these 45% off coupons though.
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