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#1 hotshot564 Aug 13, 2011 11:51 AM

Boat planks
 
4 Attachment(s)
My set up for making planks

#2 Gravman Aug 13, 2011 12:30 PM

With your fence set to the left didn't you have to keep changing it after each pass? I may be missing something though. When I cut mine I set the blade about 3/16 from the fence and cut them. Kinda scary either way you do it.

#3 420TEE Aug 13, 2011 01:20 PM

I've done something similar and had a bunch of shims the right thickness and add one between the fence and plank each pass.

#4 Sharky1dk Aug 13, 2011 01:20 PM

Nice surroundings, for making planks.
And the results is looking good to.


Robert

#5 patmat2350 Aug 13, 2011 01:30 PM

I rip them on a bandsaw, but have to thickness sand to finish...

#6 RGinCanada Aug 13, 2011 02:58 PM

Ripping thin strips is a lot easier with a zero-clearance insert and the proper blade. I have ripped down to a little under 1/8" with a Freud Glue-Line Ripping blade on my Ridgid table saw.

#7 Gravman Aug 13, 2011 03:29 PM

Yes, I have to run mine through the thickness sander after I cut them. My thickness sander must have had 10,000ft of Mahogany run through it over the years. It is from way back in the 1980's. It just keeps chunging along.

#8 hotshot564 Aug 13, 2011 04:00 PM

You have to push the board up against the feather board, then move the fence up to it and lock it with each pass. Works real well, because the strip is not being stuck between the fence and blade. The strips are 3/32" x 48" Don

#9 420TEE Aug 13, 2011 04:33 PM

Actually you can cut one that is correct then use it and every succeeding one for spacers.

#10 chesguy Aug 13, 2011 04:42 PM

Don't you still need to allow for kerf of the blade each time?

#11 Stu Kerrn Aug 13, 2011 04:47 PM

Sawing Planks
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 420TEE (Post 19037671)
Actually you can cut one that is correct then use it and every succeeding one for spacers.

I have a four inch table saw with a micrometer on the rip fence. I saw all my planks a few thousandths wide (band saw or the small table saw carbide blade) and then use a hand micrometer, get the plank size and then use the micrometer on the rip fence to get the exact size I feel I want, every time. My saw has a removable blade cover insert, to have zero blade clearance for various thickness slitting blades (no kerf). With this method I can make 1/32 square stock. Thank you Stu Kerrn

#12 norgale Aug 13, 2011 08:39 PM

Nice set up Hotshot. I'll have to try that on my table saw. The only thing missing in your pictures is a nice old time mahogany runabout at the dock. Nice looking site. pete

#13 boater_dave Aug 14, 2011 12:30 PM

I used a disposable piece of thin ply clamped to the table as a zero clearance insert. I would set the fence position by testing on a scrap piece. Then lower the blade and clamp the ply in place. Start the blade and raise it through the ply. And my fence is on the right side of the blade so it doesn't change for each cut. I found that it works best to cut the planks from a bigger board by ripping the plank thickness dimension first, then going for the width. Always start with longer planks than needed so you don't have to worry about the last few inches. And use a push stick and finger boards as needed to keep the stock under control. A helper to pull the pieces out the other end helps, too.

Dave


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