3D Hobby Shop 71" AJ Slick - Build & Fly thread
OK, here they are. Per Ben from 3DHS
Another fine work by IPSMotors
70 AJ Slick Video #1 - AJ Uncut
70 AJ Slick Video #2 - 2009 IMAC Sportsman Sequence
70 AJ Slick Video #3 - First Huck
Component weight in grams / oz
Bare fuselage 767 / 26.4
Hatch 190 / 6.6
Cowl 142 / 4.9
rudder 70 / 2.4
Wing tube 54 / 1.9
Hstab+elev+joiner 193 / 6.7
Wheel pant 35 / 1.2
Carbon main gear 86 / 3.0
Wing, hinged w/ aileron 390 / 13.4
Tailwheel assembly 23 / 0.8
Parts List Added Courtesy of Matt (DaLoaf)
SLICK COCKPIT (Thanks to GP!!)
Note: We have made a few changes to the kit since IPS did the build videos. These few changes are reflected in the "build thread" posts below.
The 70" Slick manual is available for download as a .pdf file below.
NOTE about servo arms:
Make sure that your ball links do not contact your servo arms as they travel. We want to have smooth action and low servo-current draw. As pictured below, when using stock Hitec GRP servo arms, one way to do this is to cut or sand away the corner of the arm as shown.
Photo of Fantasy Blue:
Below is also a photo of the Fantasy blue color scheme on the 70" Slick, a 51" Slick is shown in the photo for size comparison.
First video of Blue scheme added below. Setup:
Turnigy 6S 5000mah 15C
SPARE PARTS LIST
Canopy Hatch - Blue http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2517
Canopy Hatch - Red http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2518
Cowl - Blue http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2515
Cowl - Red http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2516
Motor box http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2524
Wing spar tube http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2522
Landing Gear http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2519
Pants Red/White http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2521
Pants Yellow http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2520
Tailwheel assem. http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2523
Main Wheels http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/detail.aspx?ID=2525
70" Slick Build Thread, pt. 1
As usual, we start the build with landing gear. If you use polyurethane glue, drip a little onto the gear plate inside the fuselage, a little extra strength on the gear plate never hurts, and it locks all of the wood and carbon together.
More info to come :)
70 Build Thread pt. 2
The 70" Slick uses pin-style hinges.
The wing hinges are glued, gap-sealed and finished.
The tail hinges are unglued. On these hinges, we recommend the use of vasoline on the center rotating portion to keep your glue from making the hinge sticky. When hinging the tail, you can use hinge glue, polyurethane glue (gorilla or sumo), or 30-minute epoxy glue. For epoxy or polyurethane, use alcohol for cleanup. Note that polyurethane will bubble up out of the hinge for approx 30-45 miunutes and you will need to clean off the excess a few times with alcohol.
The control hardware on the 70" slick uses allen-screws and self-locking nuts to attach the ball links to arms and horns.
As pictured below, there is a rear-rudder servo option, for pilots who opt for heavy power systems. Space is tight for this install, and so the pushrod attaches to the inside of the servo arm, and a spacer may be needed between the ball link and the arm if you are using an arm with a tall installed height. Do whatever it takes to keep the pushrod from contacting the elevator at full throw.
70" Slick build thread pt. 3
Hstab and elevators.
Cut out the holes in the fuslage covering as shown. Slide the horiztonal stab into its slot. Align side to side with a ruler. Temporarily install wing tube and wings onto fuse and measure form the Hstab tips to the rear aileron tips, equalize this dimension to make sure stab is perfectly aligned (illustration coming).
Drip thin Ca glue onto the Hstab-to-fuselage joint. Again, we DO NOT remove any covering from the Hstab. Thin CA binds very well to both covering and wood. Allow to dry. Clean up any leakage with Ca debonder.
Install the hinge points on the elevators in the same manner as on the rudder.
Install the elevator with the joiner-rod first. Put some thick CA, polyurethane, or epoxy into the joiner slot on the other elevator before installing it. NOTE: the joiner slot is TIGHT. Trial fit once before doing it for real.
Install elevator servo, horn, and linkage as shown. If you use a very heavy power system, you can use a second elevator servo, this system can be done a second time on the other side, everything is mirror-image and the hardware is included. Our test aircraft use ONE elevator servo and we fly them hard.
70" Slick build thread pt. 4
The aileron installation is very simple.
Cut out the covering over the servo hole and the control horn slots as shown.
Use epoxy or polyurethane to glue the horn in, just as on the rudder and elevator.
Install the servo, using the pull-string inside the wing to pull the wire through.
Assemble and install the pushrod as shown, using the allen-screws and nylon locknuts. Check for free motion, and make sure the ball-link is not rubbing the servo arm. Cut away servo arm as needed.
Hey Ben took all the front row seats. LOL
I just got off the phone with him a while ago and know what motor is going in one. :D It is going to be off the hook. :cool:
I just ordered my CC Pro BEC, so all I have left to pick up is the motor spacers and I'm done buying stuff for the Slick. Now its time to start collecting parts all over again for the big Vyper.
I just measured my Scorpion S4025-12 and got 78mm from back of x-plate to seat of prop adapter. Looks like I won't need any spacers.
Here's a relatively simple way to install the Neu setup for those interested. Basically, just drill / enlarge the hole to allow the motor to fit (but not too large as to allow you to still drill the four supporting hole.
Then you mount the Neu on an aluminum plate (I just modded one of my other motor's X mount for this purpose)
Also measure out how long your mount needs to be.
Use an appropriate length nylon washer and rods found at Lowe's, and you're set
I like the videos
great job on the video's showing the how to put the slick together.
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