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Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 23, 2015 @ 06:15 PM | 2,249 Views
So I am finishing up getting all of the Saito engines that I want for my collection and this one is the latest. The FA-30S. It is a cute little thing. I have read good things about this engine and I can't wait to get it out on the test stand for some break-in.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 21, 2015 @ 03:04 PM | 1,978 Views
Work on the Hog has really slowed due to long hours at work last week. But I am in the final stages of prepping things before covering. The servos and pushrods are installed. The wing mounted to the fueslage; working on the bottom fairing for the wing to meet the fuse. I sheeted the fuselage also and began filling gaps and shaping the nose/engine compartment area.

The wing still needs to be sanded, filled and sanded again. I still need to install the control horns on the surfaces. I bought covering and main wheels today. Sky blue and yellow will be the colors. I need to figure out the scheme. I mocked it up for some pictures.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 16, 2015 @ 06:38 PM | 2,985 Views
In the last 2 days I have been busy on the Hog. I started with getting the throttle cable to the correct length and routing it from the throttle to the servo. The flex cable is really the only way to do this as you will see in the bends. I still have not sheeted the fuselage so this helped a lot in routing and figuring. I ended up gluing the pushrod tube to one of the stringers above the tank to straighten it out before it got to the throttle arm.

I also had to put a new throttle arn on the Enya, the one on there was cut very short. Luckily I had a metal servo arm left over from my RC truck days. I drilled out the splines so the screw would fit in there and it was a done deal.

I had to add a stiffener on the fuse side to route the cable as well. I put this in first and now the angle doesn't seem correct so I may have to change it once I operate the servos and check for binding.

I also laid the fiberglass tape down around the wing joint. I have ALWAYS disliked this task. In the old days I used to use polyester resin, but in the last 10 years I have just used 2 part epoxy. I have never had a wing joint fail with either. I used 3M contact cement sprayed onto the wing to hold the tape in place while I lathered the epoxy on and smoothed it out.

I also started on the elevator and rudder pushrods. Yes, I am using the balsa ones included in the kit. A bit of a risk but I have used them before. Typically if I use wood pushrods I would use the hardwood dowels. I did...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 14, 2015 @ 03:58 PM | 2,175 Views
I have been doing a bit on the Hog. Not as much as I was doing. Long days at work and I have been tired in the evening. Plus I am to the point in the build that I typically slow down. I'm not sure why. Maybe the hype is gone, maybe I'm tired of sanding even though that isn't close to being done, maybe I dislike the remaining work to do. I'm not really sure but I have slowed some.

All of the major assemblies are completed and the things that are left are the minor finishing touches. Shaping the ailerons, gluing the wing blocks in place, carving the nose to shape, etc. The tedious stuff.

So I have cut the aileron servo pocket into the wing. Done the aileron torque rod things, final sanded the leading edge. I still have to apply the fiberglass strip around the center joint.

The fuse is 95% done. I still have to sheet the bottom from the aft edge of the wing back to the tail. I am holding off doing this as I am not sure I will really do it. This darn plane builds so heavy anyway and with the Enya 60 perched out as far forward as it will go, I need to decide if I will need that weight. I have yet to begin the tedious task of carving the nose side filler blocks to shape. I think I mentioned that I am NOT putting in the bottom balsa block to fully enclose the engine compartment. I really do NOT need that weight in front. besides it is easier to service the engine with it open. I think I will go buy some 1/16" sheeting for the top of the fuselage. I just can'...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 14, 2015 @ 12:36 PM | 2,393 Views
Instead of working on the Astro Hog I decided to run some engines today. I have to get my 'cologne' on and there is no better way than to run some new engines. The first of the day was the Saito 45 below, and now the new Tower Pro 46. All of the videos were from the very first tank of fuel. In fact I didn't even finish that tank.

Now since I normally run 4 strokes, I took a quick read of how Tower suggests running and breaking this engine in. Being a trus ABC construction it is a bit different than what Saito states for their 4 strokes.

In summary their instructions state: Start the engine, initially with the needle valve open 3 turns, I did 2.5. Get it going and gradually close the needle valve until you hear it 'come up on the pipe' my words not theirs. Until you hear a very high pitch sound and peak RPM, then open the needle 5-6 clicks from that point. Sounds pretty aggressive to me. Basically run it to peak RPM and then back off a bit. Well I deviated from that just a bit; I didn't richened it a bit more than 5-6 clicks from peak. Now I was running 10% Omega and a new APC 11x7 prop which was recommended as a good one for break-in.

This engine started on the second flip! It was off to the races after that. Now it did die once when I was messing with the idle adjustment. Warm start took a bit more, it took about 10 flips but it was because I ran it out of fuel. Another excellent hand starting engine.

I saw it peak at near 12,000RPM, but I...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 14, 2015 @ 10:21 AM | 2,756 Views
Well I took this little gem outsides today for it's first drink of fuel. I ran Morgan's Omega 10% and an APC 11x6 propeller. After prime it started on the second flip; typical Saito for sure. I was careful not to run it over 4500 RPM for the first 10 minutes as sepecifed in the break-in instructions.

After that I ran it to WOT for about 15-20 seconds; some of that is shown in the videos. It actually showed a bit over 9000 RPM but I believe the video only shows about 8800.

There was one odd thing, there was a substantial fuel leak coming from the glow plug seat. It might be visible in one of the videos, but was easily seen by me. It was a brand new OS F plug and washer. I pulled it inspected both the plug, washer, and glow area on the engine. I did not see anything at all wrong. I re-installed it and tried again, still the same. This time I put 2 washers under the plug and the leak was gone. The extra washer did not seem to affect the perfromance of the engine however.

It was a typical Saito run, flawless. This engine runs very nice and will only get better as the break-in continues. I was quitre impressed at how it idled for being the first tank. It became a bit rough when I tried to get it down below 2800RPM, but that isn't unusal being it was the first 2 tanks and I had not even touched the idle screw as yet.

Videos located here, https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjm...m794jkGxutejcg
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 13, 2015 @ 07:41 PM | 2,937 Views
As much as I didn't need another engine, this deal was too good to pass up. I purchased a new and unrun Saito FA-45MKII from a fellow member here. I already have a FA-45S which has hotter cam timing and basically makes the same power as the FA-50. The 45 Special according to this website: http://saito-engines.info/ , was not sold in the US. I am pretty sure that I bought my 45S from a hobby shop in WI, but I really have no records or proof of that. Bottom line is I didn't purchase it used nor from overseas.

So I could tell immediately that this 45 had never seen a drop of fuel, very cool. It came in a slightly tattered box, some paperwork but not the instruction sheet, decals and tools.

I fully intend to run this engine tomorrow as I am never going to sell it. I usually disassemble, inspect, and clean all used engines I buy, but tonight I decided to do the same to this new engine.

I was really hoping for the instruction sheet as the carbuerator on this has a large knob for the idle mixture. Even though this engine has never run, I would like to know what the initial setting for this knob should be, as it could have been turned in its lifetime. There is no throttle stop screw so setting the idle is going to be interesting. It also has the reward facing carb inlet so you cannot see which direction WOT is without at least taking the carb off. I'm sure I will forget by tomorrow and have difficult starting the thing.

You can tell this one one of Saito's...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 12, 2015 @ 08:12 PM | 1,424 Views
Ok, ok, yet another 2-stroke engine. What gives? Well I got this NIB 40 FP from a great member here toni2di for a great deal. Why did I buy it? Nostalgia plain and simple. This was the FIRST RC engine I ever bought way back in 1988. It brings back memories of when I started flying, or trying to fly.

Sure these engines are very reliable, easy to tune, and notoriously lower on power than ball bearing engines. I mean look at the throat on the carb of this thing. It can't hold a candle to the Tower 46 below, but it wasn't designed to be a power house. It was designed as an entry level engine of high quality, that would run forever.

The casting of this engine is a thing of beauty. Just flawless. I serioulsy doubt I will ever run a drop of fuel through this engine. Like I said, I bought it for the memories it brings back and that's it.

Oh BTW, the box says 40 FP-S 13341, well this isn't the original box the engine came in. This engine is a 40 FP 13331....Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 12, 2015 @ 07:47 PM | 1,333 Views
Huh? What? Me like, I mean love another 2 stroke engine? You bet your butt. I scored an engine that I had flown extensively back in the late 90's, that is a real butt kicking engine. The Tower Hobbies Pro 46. You read correctly, Tower Hobbies engine.

I really don't think the line of Pro engines was too popular and I am unsure how long they were made. But I can tell you they were/are fantastic engines! Easy start and tune, and incredibly powerful. Those with a keen eye will discover that this engine bears a striking resemblance to the GMS 47. Well it is because they were made in the same factory just as many engines were. I owned several of the GMS 47 engines too.

Anyway I found this pristine speciman at Ronwc's house. This engine has never been touched by humans since it was packaged at the factory. All bags were still stapled shut. I could not resist this. The box and contents have the distinct aroma of an attic, musty smell. It must have been purchased and stored away for years. Now it will get a chance to take flight.

I had flown this engine in my SIG Somethin Extra's. In fact those planes were used as test beds for numerous engines, both 2 and 4 stroke. I might actually run this engine this weekend and begin the break-in. I don't have a plane for it yet but it would be ideal on a pattern plane like a Kaos or Ultra Sport.

They came with mufflers very similar in design to the Jett Engineering Jett Stream. This aids in producing its...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 08, 2015 @ 12:38 PM | 2,529 Views
I cut the 1/2" balsa cowl filler pieces from the large chunk of printed balsa. Man without a razor saw, that would be a real chore. I sanded the edges to match and glued them together; they were 2 piece cowl cheeks. Next I glued them inside the firewall area. I then smeared epoxy on the inside surfaces to fuel proof the area.

I also drilled a hole in the F2 former for the throttle pushrod. Because of it's location I may actually have to use the cable pushrod the was included with the kit. It is flexible enough to route where it needs to go.

I drilled some holes for the rare earth magnets for the removeable hatch and pressed them into place. Eventually I will run some thin CA over them to secure them.

I found a lightly used 8 oz fuel tank from another project. I did a quick inspection and pressure check on it and began the installation. I have found that getting the fuel tank installed, fitted properly and plumbed is much easier while I still have access to the area. Without the magnetic hatch this would be buried inside the canverous area. I also installed the engine mount and fitted the engine. I can see, check the fuel tank centerline in relation to the center of the carb. All looks good the tank centerline is slightly below the carb's.

I have some foam pieces to minimize fuel foaming from vibration. All looks pretty good. I finished it up with some new fuel tubing. I am going to leave the tank and foam in place now....Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 07, 2015 @ 04:06 PM | 4,286 Views
I got quite a bit of work done on the Hog today. I was home alone and could work relatively undisturbed. Angel and Chloe my girls,(cats) came in periodically to check on my progress.

So I start off with showing the firewall and engine mounting. I ma using the Enya 60-4C for this airplane and the mounting is a bit different. I had to put it out on the end of the beams to clear the carbuerator. I think it might still be touching a bit. With the mounts provided in the kit the throttle arm for the engine is right in line with the mount. I have it oriented so that the pushrod will attach at the top. This made the hole in the firewall for the pushrod a pretty non-standard location. It exit right at the top of the firewall and just beneath the sheeting. It should be interresting, but at least the pushrod will not interfere with the fuel tank at all.

I also just drilled 1/4" holes in the firewall for the fuel tubing to exit. In actuality I will not be using muffler pressure but I will still use the line for priming.

The fuse is all framed up. If you look closely you can see I made a couple of mistakes with the stringers. I had to correct that. I had recieved a call that a dear friend of mine lost her battle with cancer this morning. I wasn't thinking clearly notheless. I made good progress and need to look at the instructions to see what is to happen next.

I really do not like the idea of completely enclosing the fuel tank. Since there is a big...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 06, 2015 @ 08:13 PM | 3,664 Views
I worked a bit on the fuselage tonight. A pretty straightforward build. The fuse sides are printed on larim a few parts out from the wing saddle and rough trim the edge. Pin it down with the sides opposing each other.

Start by cutting and gluing 1/4" square stingers for the lengths and verticals. In the areas where the formers go I just used some straight ply scrap and laid it in and lined of the balsa. Initially I was using thin CA to glue these down, but then the bottle ran out. I really didn't feel like opening the new bottle for this stuff so I used the Elmers wood glue and t-pins. Lite ply doublers go in after the 1/4" square stock, at least according to the instructions. The ply could have been laid down first, but that isn't how I did it. The way I did it required a bit of sanding of some of the doubler edges to get the fit right. Between the die crushed ply and the printed sheets, there was a bit of a difference in the exact size and shape thus some fitting was required.

The lite ply die cutting (crushing/crunching) was quite poor. The die was obviously in need of sharpening before this kit was cut. This plane could seriously use the updated laser cut treatm0ent for sure. It would be much more of a joy to build.

Since I was using the Elmers tonight I need to let this stuff set over night. I had a couple of 2lb hand weights available to ues the hold the large ply sections over the wing area.

I also went ahead and pulled the remainder of the die crushed ply parts out of the jig and sanded and trimed the flash off. These pieces will be ready for immediate installation. I also glued the ply F1 pieces together to form the firewall. I clamped the Enya 60 to the beam mounts and marked the locations for the mounting screws and drill points on the firewall for the mount.

More tomorrow.... Ijust had to add a picture of the Enya. it has been a while since I had an engine picture.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 05, 2015 @ 08:01 PM | 3,073 Views
Pretty boring post tonight. I have completed the other wing panel over the last few days this week. Actually I had most of it framed up on Sunday, but seeing as I have a job during the week, I don't get as much done in the evening. So my building board is only 48" long and the wing is 70". The kitchen floor is the next best place to glue this thing together, but I didn't use that either. Yes I did maintain the suggested dihedral which is .... alot.

I have done this many times before and I did it again. I sanded until the wing panels fit quite good together and then I practiced putting them together, MANY times. Why? Because I was/am/did join them with 5 minute epoxy and holding them together by hand. Like I said, I have done this many times in the past. The key is to practice, have the materials on hand in if something comes up, alcohol soaked rag, paper towels, a wife, and loads of new curse words. Luckily I didn't need any of those things. In 4 minutes it was set enough to relax my grip and lean against the closet door. You do what you gotta do when you don't have what I would call a 'proper' work space.

The end result is a nicely glued wing that is straight and true. Now after it has set you find out just how out of balance it is. I tried the best I could to evenly spread out the dense and soft balsa in this wing, but it was still pretty heavy on one end. So I grabbed some weights, coins, batteries, and go about seeing how bad it is. It fell...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Feb 01, 2015 @ 09:51 AM | 2,692 Views
Pretty short and sweet today. I choose to hammer out the fin, rudder, elevators and sheet the stab.

I have a load of wings to cook for today's festivities so I am going to try and not start on the fuselage.....
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 31, 2015 @ 06:59 PM | 4,261 Views
Ok, I thought I was done for the day, but...... I started on the stabilizer. BTW, I did finish the right wing panel too. I put the final LE material on and sanded it to shape.

I must say that this kit is SO over engineered in areas it isn't funny. I already mentioned the wing tips, now this stabilizer. I mean really? First of all they use large material to make this. 5/16" spruce leading edge and 3/16" x 3/8" top spars. Top spars?? Then you put some die cut ribs in to hold the shape of no less 3/32" sheeting. Holy cow!? This is designed for a 1.20 size 4 stroke..... no it was designed way back when engines were much less powerful. I am absolutely sure no one ever ripped the stabilizer apart back in the late 60's and 70's with the under powered engines of the day. I am just shaking my head the entire time I frame this thing up.

Not only that but the material provided is very dense balsa. Good thing I am putting a relatively heavy Enya engine in the nose. Now some pictures. This is it for the night, my back hurts.... Oh this is just the top. The bottom also gets the spar and sheeting....geeeez.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 31, 2015 @ 03:47 PM | 2,968 Views
The right wing panel is nearly completed now. The only things remaining to do are to fill some gaps, install the final LE edge piece and shape it.

I am NOT a perfectionist when it comes to building. I build strong, straight, make mistakes, correct mistakes and then in the end it gets covered with Monokote. I admit I sometimes get on a roll and make a mistake or two that needs to be fixed. Like beginning to install 3" wide LE sheeting instead of 4" wide sheeting. I have been building planes for over 27 years. Most airplane construction is pretty much the same from plane to plane. D tube wing construction, sheeting, cap strips, LG mounts, etc.

The wing tips on this plane are way over engineered and heavy IMO, but I am going to build this airplane pretty much as designed. I am not going to make major modifications to the construction process, but there are things I will do a bit differently. The wing tips, I pretty much just slapped together on the glass sheet. They will get final sanded to shape so I am not too concerned about absolutely perfect junctions.

Back to how I am building the Hog. I am thinking of going against common practice of 2 aileron servos and using the old school method of one in the middle of the wing with the torque rod setup as described in the instructions. Aileron box installed next.

Now the fun if this kit begins, cutting 1/2" parts from printed on 1/2" stock. Gotta love old SIG kits. Wing filler block for...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 30, 2015 @ 07:49 PM | 3,893 Views
Well the decision was made and the Astro Hog wins out this time. Reasons: I have never built one before, 1 fewer wing, and thus possibly completed sooner. I will be installing my Enya 60-4C initially and then at some point the Enya 80-4C. This airplane is being built for those 2 engines. Since both have identical mounting holes and are basically exactly the same, it only makes sense.

The right wing panel assembly began tonight. I have a 48" long balsa building board and I also purchased some ceramic magnets from Harbor Freight. They are just all enough to act as 90 degree holders and PLENTY strong enough to hold the wood together.

I am using both Elmers wood glue as well as Bob Smith medium and thin CA for this build.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 29, 2015 @ 05:56 PM | 3,378 Views
I know nearly, if not all of my entries have to do with running, buying, rebuilding engines. Well here is a change of pace. I have made a committment that 2015 is going to be a renewed year of building for me. With that more entries will be about building airplanes as well as engines.

I really do not have much space to build and that has contributed to why I haven't done much in the last 10 years. But I went out bought a new table, pulled the trusty building board and sheet of glass to cut on out and prepped the room. I already had a SIG Astro Hog up on the top shelf of the closet begging for me to start it. So I pulled it down and began prepping it for a build. I took all of the wing ribs out, cut the plans into size for building on top of.....and just as I was going to start glueing some wing spars together tonight, a package was standing in my room.

I had placed an order from Hobby Horse for a SIG Hog Bipe; it arrived! This was a birthday present to myself. I got it for $166 even though SIGPlanes .com had raised the prices on this kit to $173. I also got free shipping so it was a win win. Then I looked at the box after taking the brown paper off just to see that the price tag on it from HH was $173.68. I really scored!

So now the conundrum. Which should I build first?
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 24, 2015 @ 06:39 PM | 2,613 Views
So I get these two engines and neither one runs. One engine is new but has a 'crack' in the head near rocker arm mount. The other is some pretty war torn engine. Between the two one good engine should result. Right? I took both apart starting with the used engine.

It was pretty dirty and had evidence of lots of run time as seen in the carbon deposits on the exhaust valve stem and face. The piston ring was worn into the piston head and I do not think they could ever be separated. The PO had installed the head from this engine onto the new engine. So this had the new head on it. I was so into the disaeembly that I did not take many pictures of the internals. I removed the valve cover and noticed a broke, sheared off rocker arm mounting lug, not a 'crack'. This head is toast. Strip the valves, springs, etc. and begin the clean up of the used head.

The new engine was just that a NEW engine with a used head installed. So I did not completely tear this engine down. I just removed the head and installed the cleaned up used head. I installed all of the new head hardware and tightened it all down. Set the valves and viola! Ready to run for the first time.

She runs!!

Enya 80-4C First run.(1) (1 min 22 sec)

...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 24, 2015 @ 09:29 AM | 2,311 Views
Here are a couple of videos of the FA-56 that I got yesterday. I ran it for the first time. It fired right up and holds a nice idle of 2255-2400RPM with an APC 12x6 propeller. Mogan's Omega 10%.

During the cleaning I had removed the needle valve. It was set at 3.5 turns open. I reset it to 2.5 turns open and this is how it ran at that setting. The first video it topped out at 10,400 RPM. I eventually opened the needle so that WOT was about 9800-9900 RPM on the stand.

This is true Saito perfection and quality.

Initail start up (1 min 33 sec)

...Continue Reading