I am waiting for the final engine to arrive before beginning this in earnest. I will be conducting a 30 size 4 stroke engine shoot out. Basically comparing RPM figures with various props and various fuels. The engines to be included are:
OS FS-26 Surpass
This request was originally an idea from a YouTube subscriber in Germany who is trying to decide on a power plant for his WWI Air Combat airframe. he is building a Nieuport 28. Following the rules in the attached document. It sounds like a really cool competition.
I already have the 26 Surpass and the Magnum XL30, but the Saito FA-30S just arrived today. I immediately began the break in of this engine in preparation for the shoot out. The OS FS-30 should arrive on Monday.
Since I cannot enter a table here I just made a screen shot of the test matrix. Basically I plan on running each engine using at minimum a 10x4 prop, as dictated by the WWI combat rules, and probably a few others for Min/Max RPM. I will run this test on several different fuels as well focusing on the FAI as that is easily available in Germany.
Omega Control Line 10%
Omega FAI 0%
In preparation for the shoot out I tested out a multiple tachometer setup today too. I have been less than impressed with the GloBee tach I have been using lately. The Tower Hobbies one I have is equally crappy. I have since ordered a Hobby King unit and hope it performs a bit better.
Well the idle screw that was missing from my latest Magnum XL52 engine finally arrived. It should have arrived yesterday as the USPS status was 'Out for Delivery'. Well it did not show up. Tracking this morning showed it went back to Tampa and then to Sarasota last night. WTH? This morning it showed 'Arrived at post office' in Largo at 7:09AM but not 'Out for Delivery'. I happened to be home and intercepted the Mail person and just as I was about to begin an inquisition I see her pull up an mailing envelope that could only be the idle screw. Finally.
Now with the screw installed to an approximate setting as my other Magnum, I strapped it to the test stand. Needle valve open 2 full turns, new OS F plug installed, tank filled, ready to fire her up. She popped on the first touch of the prop and the second flip she was purring away.
Whatever ill will I had towards Chinese made engines once again began to slip away as I advanced the throttle. This engine is sweet to say the least. Now I have no doubt that SOME Magnum/ASP engines are dogs, but I have been fortunate lately. I would not hold back my feelings on this. These two XL 52's I have are really well behaved nice running engines.
Just like the two ASP FS 80's I have had in the last month, these are nice engines. Check it out for yourself.
I began the break in of a NIB Magnum engine today. This is an engine I purchased here on RCG. It is the second XL30 I have owned. I have read very mixed reviews about this particular engine as far as quality issues and running performance. Now the first one I had I was unable to ever get it to hand start. Eventually I sold the engine. Aside from the non hand starting it was a good running engine. I replaced it with an OS FS-30 which hands down is a superior engine.
When I saw this one NIB for a price I was willing to pay I jumped on it. Today I began the break in of this engine. From my past experience I had reservations about whether or not I could hand start it on the first tank of fuel. Now one of the issues with this engine, and other Magnum engines, is the lack if a throttle stop screw. This makes it a bit harder to determine when the throttle barrel is open enough for starting. That was my issue again today and after a few flips I resorted to the electric starter.
After several tanks of fuel I was able to hand start this engine and the break in is well underway. The first video of the initial run is somewhat boring as I kept it at a constant rich setting. I have attached the video montage of subsequent runs. It seems to be a really nice running engine.
So as I stated several posts ago, this is the first K&B engine I have owned. I am both impressed and disappointed in this engine. Let me explain. I ran it today for the first time. It would not hand start which is not entirely surprising, but it did leak fuel, badly.
Once I got it started with the electric starter I ran it quite rich as the instructions mention. I saw tons of fuel leaking from the rear of the head. Initially I thought, hoped, it was coming from the carb inlet. Well that did not turn out to be the case. It was coming from the top of the head, as seen in the videos, and running down the back of the engine pooling up in the rear of the back plate. Now the impressive part of this is that the engine was running well the entire time! I mean once I got it started, it never missed a beat. It would idle well and transition to WOT was good. The engine runs good.
So after the first two runs I took it inside and opened it up looking for some gross manufacturing defects that would be the cause of this leakage. I shot a video of that too. Well I really didn't find anything unusal but I did apply some Permatex motoseal 1 ultimate gasket maker grey around the mating surface of the top head piece. After re-assembly I ran the engine again, again I shot a video, and the fix seemed to work.
There are 3 videos linked to this post. Watch them all if you want to see the progression of the first runs, dis-assembly, and subsequent run of this engine.
I take a look inside this newly acquired used engine. This was going to be a Box to the Bench review video, but the initial inspection upon arrival showed the carb was missing the idle adjustment screw. The throttle arn was pretty badly bent as well but that is an easy fix. I have an idle screw on order and thus this video review instead.
For those that follow my blog you might be surprised by this news. I just bought my FIRST K&B engine! I purchased a K&B Sportster 20 from a fellow member here. Yes, after 28 years in the hobby, this is the first time I have ever owned a K&B engine.
I cannot say that there was ever really a reason for that other than personal choice. I have always favored the Japanese made engines but have owned numerous Chinese made engine too. I cannot say that I am on the K&B 'band wagon' or anything. This choice was really one of needing to try something new, and timing. I would never buy a used K&B engine but a NIB one was worth the risk.
Being a Made in the USA engine I wasn't expecting Japanese quality externally, and I wasn't disappointed. Sure it isn't the same high quality casting as seen from overseas, but it is pretty nice. I have no complaints about it. Judging by the date on the documentation this looks to be a vintage 1997 engine. I wasn't all that thrilled about the simple brass remote needle valve holder, but it should work fine.
The two piece exhaust system should be interesting. I think I will put a drop of semi-permanent loctite on the screws to keep this thing together.
The real test will come when I get around to running it. I will use the supplied glow plug and either Morgan's Omega 10% or FAI 0% for fuel.
Another reason I chose this particular engine as my first K&B dates back to my entrance into the hobby in...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 |
Jul 03, 2016 @ 08:14 AM | 5,790 Views
Seeing as I now have a gallon of this Omega FAI fuel I thought I would run another engine on it. Now yesterday I pulled my old school open rocker FA-50 out and put a tank of fuel through it. The run yesterday was done using my standard Omega 10%. The engine ran fantastic! It is one of my favorite engines for sure, four stroke that is.
Anyway this morning I tried several different things. The first being to run this engine on the FAI fuel as a comparison. I use the exact same glow plug and prop; Hangar 9 four stroke and APC 11x6.
I recorded a max 10,440 RPM on the 10% fuel. Today with the FAI I recorded a sustained 9980 RPM. It hit 10,440 but only for a second so I didn't count that.
The next things that were different on this video was the camera angle and tach mounting. I ask any viewers that are familiar with my videos to provide some feedback on the camera angle as to which is preferred. I have links to both videos here. The first from yesterday with 10% and my standard camera angle and the second is the FAI fuel with new camera angles.
So I had one of my YouTube subscribers from Germany request that I run a particular engine on 0% nitro fuel. Well I do not buy or run any of my engines on that type of fuel. he wanted some RPM numbers for different props with this fuel. Apparently this is a common fuel for him/them to use.
I explained that I did not have that fuel nor was I sure if my LHS even carried it. My store carries Morgan's fuels and after a quick search I found that Morgan makes Omega FAI. This is 0% nitro, 17% oil content fuel. I was a bit hesitant to just go and buy a gallon of fuel that I would use one time. After a kind donation to my website I went right out to see if my LHS even had any of this fuel. Well, lucky for me and the subscriber, they did!
Here are three videos I shot today running my FS-26 Surpass on this fuel. One video is also running the standard 10% nitro as a baseline.
I received an incredible gift from a great friend and RCG member Balsaworkbench. He provided me with a very low time OS 60 FP engine. Now of all of the engines I have owned over the years the 60 FP has not been one of them. That has changed now!! What a nice engine too! It came without an exhaust so I posted an ad here on RCG and as usual a great member came through with a NIP Thunder Tiger 61 exhaust. Thank your Hobbyfun100!
Well that exhaust came the other day and today I had a chance to run this engine. It is an easy hand starter and overall sweet engine!
Posted by dmrcflyr2 |
Jun 26, 2016 @ 06:48 AM | 1,836 Views
I noticed that I did not have many if any videos of these two engines. Yesterday I decided to take them out and do performance runs on each. The release to the market of these two engines is quite different. The 40X was reviewed in 1978 and the SS40BB around the 1987 time frame.
The curious thing is that the 40X features a more modern single piece crankcase design as opposed to the two piece of the 40BB. The two piece crankcase is an older design seen in the late 70's-80's OS FSR series engines.
Both engine turned the same 11x6 APC at nearly the same WOT RPM. Now I did not really lean either to optimum, but they were close. You can see the 40BB weighs in at 1 ounce less than the 40X.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 |
Jun 18, 2016 @ 11:38 AM | 2,187 Views
Well as promised I ran this engine and shot some videos of it. I had some difficulty initially getting it started and it was completely my fault and not the engines. I neglected to follow the instructions for the initial needle valve setting and opened it too much. This resulted in a flooded engine that would not start.
Once I cleared the flooded condition and set the needle properly it was quite uneventful after that. The engine starts easily, runs well, and has good transition from idle to WOT. I have the needles tweaked pretty well in the second video. I might be able to lean the low end a click or two more, but for the most part this engine is ready to drop into an airplane.
It runs just like my first one did in 1989, very strong. I took a few pictures inside the engine after my 4 runs as well. As you can see it still looks new.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 |
Jun 15, 2016 @ 05:32 PM | 2,335 Views
Completely uncharacteristic of me, I bought another 'Made in China' engine. I was perusing eBay last week and found a cache of 90's vintage, new old stock ASP engines from a fellow in Portugal. These are the European marketed versions.
As for the nostalgia, the ASP 46 two stroke engine was about the 3rd or 4th engine I ever purchased. I bought my first in 1989 and installed it in my first Great Planes Super Decathlon 40. It was a nice combination and powered that airplane quite well. When I crashed that airplane I built another and powered this one with my first 4 stroke engine, an Enya 80-4C.
So I placed a bid at the lowest price figuring if someone wanted it more than me they could have it. Someone did and I did not bid again. The next day I received an email from eBay stating I had a second chance at this engine for the same amount. I am unsure if the original deal went south or this fellow just has a good supply of these engines. Either way I ordered it this time.
Well the engine arrived today and here are some initial pictures of the engine. It was a bit stiff and once again I question the quality of the oil the early Chinese engines were shipped with. Clearly the engine was NIB and unrun but it was stiff. I added some oil and a bit of heat and it freed up. I'll be putting it on the test stand this weekend....Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 |
Jun 11, 2016 @ 05:17 PM | 2,470 Views
I ran these engines today back to back. Both have about the same amount of run time. The Magnum had six tanks of fuel through it and the OS roughly the same amount. When I purchased the Surpass it was labeled a used engine but when I got it I found no real evidence that it had been run more than once. I have put about 6-7 tanks of fuel through it now.
The Magnum four strokes are 'clones' of the Surpass series of OS engines. These are the two closest displacements that I have between the two manufacturers so I thought a comparison would be fun.
Surprisingly the OS turned the same RPM as the larger displacement Magnum. Now I really did not REALLY try to peak each engine out but they are setup very similarly. The biggest difference between the two engines is that the OS has an airbleed carb whereas the Magnum has a twin needle setup. I was able to get the Magnum a bit better dialed in on the low end than the OS. Both ran and started easily by hand and had good transition.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 |
Jun 11, 2016 @ 08:24 AM | 2,749 Views
What is with me lately? The last 5 engines I have acquired have been of Chinese manufacture instead of Japan. In all honesty I have nothing against the Chinese made engines as long as I have no issues with them. Clearly the quality isn't up to par with any Japanese made engine in any respect, however that does not mean they cannot provide years of trouble free operation at a great price.
The latest engine I look at now is the Magnum XL 52 RFS. I purchased this engine here from a great RCG member. It is a new and unused engine less the box and accessories. Again the external appearance isn't as refined and clean as the OS counter parts this is a clone of but it is a good runner. I estimate that this engines date of manufacture is the late 90's early 2000's based on the fact that it has no blue valve cover. This looks more like the ASP sister engine.
I ran this engine for the first times today and was not disappointed at all. It took a prime very easily and hand started immediately. I did take a look inside the back plate and cam gear are before running. This engine was clean as a whistle and gleaming inside. Not one sign of corrosion or rust at all despite the theoretical age of the engine. I was shocked to see that the crankshaft incorporates a Woodruff for the thrust washer. This is a trait more indicative of the older OS four stroke engines. I did not see this on the ASP FS 80 or Magnum XL 70.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 |
Jun 05, 2016 @ 10:19 AM | 2,395 Views
So I recently purchased a Magnum XL 70RFS engine from eBay. Unfortunately one of my poorer purchases. I paid a bit more than I should have and the condition wasn't quite as good as the ad seemed to indicate. Oh well, you get some great buys and some not so great buys.
I am not saying the Magnum engine is a lemon, a poor runner, or anything like that,. It is just it isn't as good of a deal as I thought I was getting. With that said I have it listed in the classifieds to try to recoup some of my money. But that isn't the purpose of this blog post. The purpose is to do a quick comparison of the XL 70 to it's sister engine the ASP FS80.
These engines are made in the same factory, by the same company in China, Shenzhen Sanye Precision Machinery Co., Ltd. That is not to say the engines are identical because they are not. They have different crankcase castings for the specific brand, ASP, Magnum, etc. Along with that I have taken some pictures showing some of the other differences between these 'sister' engines that I think are interesting. I guess I figured since I had one of each why not show these differences side by side.
One of the biggest differences that I noted in my videos is the LACK of a throttle stop screw on the Magnum carburetor. This, to me, is a big deal since I run tons of engines on the test stand, I always set the throttle stop screw to a point where I can get the minimum idle without killing the engine.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 |
May 22, 2016 @ 02:46 PM | 2,927 Views
Well this engine does run and it runs quite well really. I have seen a few other videos of these engines running and this one runs just like those. For a Chinese made engine from the early 90's is is quite nice really. I have a total of three tanks through it now.
And to prove my assertion about it having one run on it from my previous post. I took the head off after the second tank to see what the valves looked like, Now the first image during dis-assembly is a snapshot taken from the video and isn't the best quality compared to the picture taken after the runs. The second snapshot from the video is showing what they looked like after I cleaned the exhaust valve. They looked the same. I think it is clear that I was correct. It was NOT a NIB engine when I got it.
There is considerably more carbon on the exhaust valve after my two runs than when I opened it up. I think it was merely fired up for about 10-20 seconds if that and then just put back into a box for however many years.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 |
May 22, 2016 @ 10:56 AM | 2,505 Views
As promised last week, I did open this newly acquired engine up. It was sold to me as a NIB engine but subsequent internal inspection tells a different story. I initially was going to open it up to check for metal shavings from manufacturing and general quality. This is due to this being an early ASP engine made in China. These engine were not known for being of the best quality and I had heard stories of folks finding metal shavings inside new engines.
Although I did not find any metal shavings I did discover this engine was not NIB and never seen fuel. I could tell from the exhaust valve. It was a slightly different color on the face and at first I just dismissed that. But after dropping the valves I could see that discoloration going up the stem of the valve. This is clear proof that this engine had been run at least once before,
I completely disassembled this engine and pulled the bearings. They did not feel very good and I immediately ordered another set from RCBearings. I did lube them up and work them a bit and they felt much better. I did decide to just re-assemble the engine with these bearings and get a run or two in to see how the engine performs. Once the new bearings arrive I will be installing them.
This will also give me the opportunity to test the theory of how many runs this engine really had before I bought it. I cleaned the exhaust valve up to look like new and today I have run the engine 3 times. Those videos to follow.
It turns out this video just so happens to be my 300th video on my YouTube channel!
Posted by dmrcflyr2 |
May 17, 2016 @ 05:24 PM | 2,724 Views
Well here is yet another departure for me. I just purchased a CHINESE made engine.... While I normally, of late anyway, stick strictly with Japanese made engines, I made an exception here.
The ASP line of engine hit the market about 1989, at least that's when I bought my first one. I believe the FS 80 was ASP's first foray into the 4 stroke market as direct competition to the OS 70 Surpass. The age of this engine, it's rarity, and the fact that I got it NIB for under $100 is why I bought this engine. I figured if I was the first person to run it and break it in I couldn't go wrong.
As you can see this is a direct clone in design of the OS Surpass line of engines from the time period. Obviously I am not expecting the same quality as I would from an OS engine and I wasn't disappointed in that respect. The external appearance and casting is ...... rough to put it mildly.
Because of the fact that this is a Chinese made engine from 1993, the year this engine hit the market, I will be doing some tear down of this engine before running. I have heard of and seen metal shavings in some of the early engines from China. I want to make sure things are as right as they can be with this engine before I run it. Another reason is that there are no replacement parts for this engine.
Here are my initial pictures of this engine. This weekend I will be shooting a "Look inside" video of this engine as I disassemble and inspect the internal components....Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 |
May 08, 2016 @ 10:21 AM | 2,770 Views
So just for the fun of it I pulled out the three 45/46 size 2 stroke engines that I have. The engines being a Tower Pro 46, an OS 45 FSR, and an OS 46 SF.
1. The Tower Pro is a new engine not fully broken in. This is about the 4th tank run through it.
2. The OS 45 FSR is a used engine of unknown run time.
3. The OS 46 SF is a used engine of unknown run time.
4. All engines running the same APC 10x6 prop.
5. All running Morgan's Omega 10% fuel
6. All run on the same day, time, weather conditions.
This is purely for fun and is not meant to be a scientific
I thought the results were somewhat interesting. The OS 45 FSR for many years was the benchmark engine; I guess until the 46 SF came out anyway.
The 45 FSR really could not compete at all. I had it maxed out at 12,240 PRM and further leaning did not result in anything but a drop in RPM. It was a relatively low run time engine, so wear and age should not have played a role in its performance.
The 46 SF was obviously the king of this comparison. Again, a used engine, but a great runner nonetheless.
Now the Tower Pro could have been tweaked a bit more and I'm sure it would have turned pretty close to the 46 SF but I really did not lean it out fully.
I started in RC Airplanes in 1988 and have built and flown many, many planes. I took a 6 year hiatus from the hobby from 2006 to 2012 due to employment/financial reasons. I fly glow primarily 4-strokes.