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Jay Burkart's blog
Posted by Jay Burkart | Jun 24, 2013 @ 10:29 PM | 3,127 Views
Here's some pictures of our new 2316 sq. in Airborns that I built for the SAM Texaco event.
I built 5 of these during the past winter.
Now that we've flown them, they seem to do well.
Seems like the bigger we make the Airborn the better it flys.
Setup for the Texaco event with 3S 2700mah Lipos they weigh in
at 165 oz RTF and some are heavier. With that battery the minimum
weight is 162 oz. so they are quite close.
The first flight at the Ft. Wayne contest one of my buddies had his skied out
to a spec and brought it down after 38 minutes to win.
Unfortunatley I lost my motor for some reason so I didn't do well at all.
Posted by Jay Burkart | Oct 14, 2012 @ 01:22 PM | 2,851 Views
My new Airborn 1600's performed well at the 2012 SAM Champs at the AMA Muncie site this year.
I was forunate to win the Grand Championship for Electric and my buddy Hank Gullet came in second with his Airborn 1600 that I built for him over this past winter.
My LMR Airborn showed an altittude of over 4100 ft. after the second flight even at this size it was just a red speck in the sky. I attribute a lot to the color scheme I use and the fact that the transparent color back lites from the sky making it more visible at high altitudes. The red shows up against haze and clouds and the white transparent shows up against blue sky.
On the Texaco second flight, I got a total flight time of over 70 minutes on a total motor running time of 4 minutes. I got up to over 3600 ft. on that flight.

Here are a few of pictures:
Posted by Jay Burkart | Feb 21, 2012 @ 11:35 AM | 3,443 Views
Just finished another Lanzo Airborn 1600 setup for LMR SAM event.
Virtually the same as the previous shown model but the hatch was made shorter and moved back over the CG because the motor is considerably heavier.
This motor is optmized for LMR and of a much higher wattage and then thrust output.
Everything else on the model is the same since I think I've optimized the building and setup of the model....Continue Reading
Posted by Jay Burkart | Aug 07, 2011 @ 11:44 AM | 4,758 Views
Attached are a couple of pictures of me holding my 1600 that gives a perspective of its size.
Also at the first contest on the first flight the performance of this model was
The flight was 1:07 hours on just 10 minutes of motor run, thermaling was
of the best I have seen and it's ability to work and center into the thermals
was remarkable.
The setup on the models was SAM legal at 110 oz. with a Thunder Power
1800mah 3S lipo pack and a NEU 1107/6D with 6.7:1 P32 gearbox.
Using my Aurora 2.4ghz radio system and a 2000mah 5 cell Eneloop receiver/servo battery pack.
I am now starting to build 3 more of these models for fellow SAM flyers
during the next few months.
Jay Burkart
Posted by Jay Burkart | Jun 22, 2011 @ 12:17 AM | 4,991 Views
Attached are a few pictures of the finished Airborn 1600 for Texaco
and also the 1326 Airborn for LMR. In the front is my Airborn 340
for the Speed 400 event.
Posted by Jay Burkart | Apr 29, 2011 @ 02:19 PM | 5,241 Views
I have finished covering and trimming out the Airborn 1600.
Still waiting on the motors.
The covering is Ultracote, mostly transparents.
The motors will be from NEU and have been on order since Feb 14th.
Going to try it with both LMR and Texaco motor setups.
I might use model in both events just by changing the motor.
Otherwise I may use my 1360 sq in Airborn for LMR and the 1600 for
the Texaco event.
I hope to do some photos outdoors whenever the rain and the wind stops
for a while.
Posted by Jay Burkart | Mar 26, 2011 @ 11:57 AM | 5,383 Views
I have completed all three of the Airborn 1600's to the ready to cover
Two of them are already on their way to new homes for this years SAM contests to be outfitted and covered by their new pilots.
I have started the process of covering mine and setting it up and
will continure documenting that in my blog.
Here are some pictures of the framed Airborns.
Thanks for bearing with me.
Jay Burkart
Posted by Jay Burkart | Mar 21, 2011 @ 12:44 AM | 6,214 Views
I cut and shaped the front window blocks, Quite a lot of balsa butchering to be had here.
That window block is massive.
Also the nose cowl blocks on the firewall motor mount is made for most of the models.
Piece of 1/2" balsa here and some 1/16 balsa strips around the edge of the motor mount themselves
to have them blend in with the sheeting of the fuselage and give the motor mount a balsa sheath
all the way around to make the covering adhere better.
Lastly bent up all the landing gears of 5/32 music wire, plan on heat treating all the gear
so that it toughens it up quite a bit and makes it not bend so easy now that the music
wire we get is about as soft as solder....Continue Reading
Posted by Jay Burkart | Mar 14, 2011 @ 10:34 PM | 7,175 Views
I have attached the tail sections to the fuselage. The vertical stab had been attached to the
horizontal stab previously. Now the horizontal stab and vertical are attached to the fuselage and
aligned. There is a cross platform of 1/4 plywood attached across the very rear of the fuse.
Then a piece of hard trailing edge stock is attached to the fuselage just in front of where the
horizontal stab rests on the fuselage. This is essentially a flat section built in to the fuselage
when framing the Trailing edge material is to anchor a alignment hold down tab of 1/16 plywood,
that protrudes from the leading edge of the horizontal stab at it's center section.
At the bottom of this TE material there is a place cut into it that is removeable to be able to
change the angle of attack of the stab if trimming is necessary. This is scored and close to
cut free but not removed so that the provision is there.
The stab is then aligned and the tab glued on, then the stab has two holed drilled through it
for 6-32 nylon bolts to bolt it to the cross platform. This is realinged to be square with the
center line of the fuselage and then drilled and tapped to accept the 6-32 bolts and the
thread hardened with thin CA and retapped.
I also put in ballast tubes right at the CG of the fuselage to be able to insert lead slugs to add
ballast to make the competition weight rules for the SAM events of Texaco and LMR.
the ballast is removeable as with the batteries we are...Continue Reading
Posted by Jay Burkart | Mar 05, 2011 @ 02:37 PM | 5,912 Views
I have been working with the stringers for the bottom side of the fuselage cowling.
After doing that part the fuselage has a bottom keel that runs about 3/4 the length of the fuse.
This also is the area where the landing gear exits and the bottom hatch is fitted into the fuselage.
The landing gear exit is relatively straight forward just a 5/32 gap between formers to allow the gear wire to exit and allow for pulling the gear out if needed. The hatch in the bottom is a bit more involved because of the flat bottom of the fuselage superstructure and then the angular keep shape over that. Also the fuselage bottom is on a curve at the point the hatch needs
to be place, then there is a hatch latch needed to release the hatch..
The hatch needs to be relatively long to allow to move the battery pack along it to allow for CG adjustments when motors are changed due to their difference in weight....Continue Reading
Posted by Jay Burkart | Feb 26, 2011 @ 08:58 PM | 6,167 Views
Got all the sides joined and started finishing the insides of the fuselages. Slide in Landing gear mounts, Wing Trailing edge wing mount reinforcements,
stringers for cowling.
All are mounted in all three. We are setting up with 5/32 landing gear wire as the
targeted flying weight will be 114 oz to use the 1900mah 3S lipos.
Probably 10 to 18 oz of ballast will be needed to make the weight rule.
I am guessing that the finished weight with all the gear will be around
100 oz for the LMR and 96 for the Texaco.
That will bring us close to the 10 oz/sq ft target....Continue Reading
Posted by Jay Burkart | Feb 23, 2011 @ 10:21 PM | 5,506 Views
I have made all the side pieces of the fuselages and have them ready to be joined
Also the wedge piece at the very tail of the fuselage is glued to one side before
joining the sides, it is a piece of 3/8" x 1.5" Trailing edge. The notch is to clear the rudder mounting
screw going up from the bottom the the stab and the other notch is the hardwood crossmount for
the horizontal stab itself. Also is shown how I sand the sides flat.
A Sanding T with the fuselage side pressed against a sanding board
with sandpaper attached to it.
Posted by Jay Burkart | Feb 09, 2011 @ 12:19 AM | 6,295 Views
I have been building fuselage sides for the last several days.
Cutting this lumber in this fuselage requires sawing each piece as a knife nor razor blade
can't cut through this lumber.
And there is a lot of cutting and fitting of all the longerons, uprights, gussets etc.
Right now I have 4 side completed and the 5th is on the board.
Six sides are needed for the 3 Airborns under construction.
With variance in wood sizes you can't really cut all the parts and just fit it together.
Each side is unique and has to be fit together.
I should have the side done and ready to sand in a day or two.
My Dremel saw and 12" sander are my best tools.
Also the pieces are so thick that you can't build one side on top of the other....Continue Reading
Posted by Jay Burkart | Feb 03, 2011 @ 08:18 PM | 6,955 Views
Finally got my saw and a start on the fuselages.
I have been making some of the cut pieces with exact angles and wing saddles
for the fuselages. A lot easier now that I have a small Dremel 4" saw.
The one picture is how I cut out the wing saddle so that the wing sits at
1.25 Degrees positive angle of attack, the stock Airborn is set at about 5 deg
which is way too much for RC flying and good thermaling characteristics.
I have proven this angle after now building 31 Airborns over the last 4 years.
I also have the Horizontal stab so that I can change it's angle if needed but
with settling on the 1.25 deg on the wing I haven't needed to trim the H Stab.
Posted by Jay Burkart | Jan 20, 2011 @ 08:29 PM | 6,036 Views
They are ready to cover.
What is left is installing the LE pins when mated to the fuselage
and the trailing edge wing bolts will be drilled to mate to the fuselage.
The ply reinforcement for these are installed at the center trailing edge.

The wings have a span of about 9 ft 5". Darn, I was trying for 10ft.
The Chord is about 16"
I can't even stand the darn things up in my shop.
You can hide behind these wings.
Hold them over your head in a breeze and you'll be airborn.
They look good if I do say so.
Now, hide all that pretty jointery under covering, how sinful.
I will start on the fuselages soon, still waiting on my new saw.
Posted by Jay Burkart | Jan 17, 2011 @ 07:46 PM | 6,723 Views
Having done the wing bisection the root panels need 1/16 Ply end cap ribs.
These are epoxied on and then sanded to conform exactly to the midsection sheeting.
Best tip on doing this is to put painters tape around the root of the wing section to
keep the epoxy from getting over on to the sheeting and also as a tell tale for when
sanding the cap rib to be flush with the sheeting.
Hold the tape about 1/16 back from the joint so that the epoxy does not glue the
tape in place, I also paint the epoxy on the ply rib with an acid brush that has
it's bristles shortened so that they are stiffer and can more effectivley brush out
the epoxy.
Next is the install of all the 1/16 ply dihedral braces on the Spars, Trailing edge
and leading edge.
There is a lot of cutting a fitting here and a pattern is cut from balsa first and then
traced onto the ply and all the braces are cut out. Make sure that the outer
ply grain is horizontal. A lot of even the aircraft ply now days is only 3 ply and
the two outer layers are in the same direction....Continue Reading
Posted by Jay Burkart | Jan 15, 2011 @ 10:02 PM | 6,453 Views
Cut all the midsections into two pieces right down the center line, through the joiner tubes
and into two equal parts with tubes perfectly aligned and ready for plywood end cap ribs.
One picture shows the cut through section with a 1/16 Ply end cap rib not the joiner tubes
showing through. A carbide blade cuts these tubes very well.
Then we cut the dihedral angle on all the the midsection tip ends and the matching
angle on all the wing tips. Nothing like a radial arm saw to do this with a nice 80 tooth
carbide blade for a slick cut. Also I made a little jig to align the tips for a square cut.
Just basically a wedge of 3/4" wood cut at the complementary angle of the tips
leading edge angle and trailing edge angle.
With all the dihedral angles cut on all the pieces we primed all the raw ends of the
parts like spars, Trailing edges and leading edges with thin CA.
Then I used my wing dihedral joining jig to match all the midsection halves to their
respective tips. Easy to line each wing panel up and joined.
Next will be the dihedral braces and ribs at the joints, also epoxy on the end cap ribs....Continue Reading
Posted by Jay Burkart | Jan 13, 2011 @ 10:36 PM | 6,467 Views
A bit more progress on the Wings.
The center or midsection of the wing has to be prepared to cut it into two right in the middle
to make two sections that will plug together.
So the wing has to be esentially covering ready through the entire middle section and then
it is cut into two halves on a radial arm saw.
This will mean cutting all of the structure including the joiner tubes.
Also in the middle section the TE is prepped for where the mounting bolts are installed
very near the TE a little bit off the center line.
Also you see the locating holes at the LE for the CF pins.
These go into the ply reinforced ribs on eithes side of the center.
I hope to be cutting the wings in two in a couple of days.
Then the tips will be joined onto their respective half of middlesection.
Doing the joined wing this way allows for quicker build and also the two
sections will exactly mate as they were built as one and then cut down the middle so both sides will match....Continue Reading