Tools explained:
DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar
stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings
your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which
you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the
workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard
earned callouses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say,
"Oh, s---!"
PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up
jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle...
It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion,
and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal
your future becomes.
OXY- ACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your
shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out
of which you want to remove a bearing race..
VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If
nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense
welding heat to the palm of your hand.
TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles
for testing wall integrity.
BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good
aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can
after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening
old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can
also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common
slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms,
also serving as a handy chisel.
PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you
needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used
as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to
the object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons
delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as
seats, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and
rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, while
being worn, along with any thing else, except for what really needs
cutting, due to the fact that they are usually dull.
Son of a b.... TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the shop while
yelling "Son of a b----" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often,
the next tool that you will need.
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar
stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings
your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which
you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the
workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard
earned callouses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say,
"Oh, s---!"
PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up
jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle...
It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion,
and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal
your future becomes.
OXY- ACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your
shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out
of which you want to remove a bearing race..
VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If
nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense
welding heat to the palm of your hand.
TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles
for testing wall integrity.
BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good
aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can
after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening
old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can
also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common
slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms,
also serving as a handy chisel.
PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you
needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used
as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to
the object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons
delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as
seats, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and
rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, while
being worn, along with any thing else, except for what really needs
cutting, due to the fact that they are usually dull.
Son of a b.... TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the shop while
yelling "Son of a b----" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often,
the next tool that you will need.
Can you relate?
Man I'm tired of the white stuff :(
Man I'm tired of the white stuff :(
Progress slow but steady :cool:
Pictures from Northwest Soaring Society Contest in Spokane.
More here http://rc.meetup.com/63/photos/
More here http://rc.meetup.com/63/photos/
Slow progressing but finished a couple Supra tips and two tail sets so far.
Now I have done it!
XPS 2.4ghz is loaded and ready to test.
I removed the receiver from case and have the vertical antenna exiting the pod.
Model is SGII plan form with Tabooish tails.
XPS 2.4ghz is loaded and ready to test.
I removed the receiver from case and have the vertical antenna exiting the pod.
Model is SGII plan form with Tabooish tails.
Here are some great shot from last season taken my a fellow NWSS pilot dougalert and his wife. Makes me want to go fly.
Well weather has been really bad so lots of time for building. This is the latest project.
It is a SuperGeeII wing with a carbon rod spar system kevlar leading edge under 2 layers of .72 glass. Wing weights is 57g & 58g. I will be trying a single layer of 1.6 glass on the second set. Pics so the leading edge after the first rough sand. When I complete the finish work I'll post another pic. I am going with an external controls on the aileron on the first wing. RDS on the second.
Pod and boom is the infamous Raptr setup. Both pods I ordered came in at 26g. I removed the top of the clamshell nose and cleaned out the resin dropped into the nose and got the pod back down to 22g. It finished at 24g (40g with boom) after I reassembled with resin and filler in the nose. I decided to push the boom through the bulkhead which served the raise the front of the boom to get the correct angles for the wing cradle to the boom. The pod failures happen just ahead of the leading edge of the wing. I think this is a vunerable area due to the lever action created on launch with the heavy battery pushed all the way to the front of the pod. To additionally stiffen the pod I cut the top clamshell from the wing forward about 1.75" and glued it together with the bottom. By gluing the top clamshell I move the area being leveraged by the battery forward to a safer spot.
It's a work in progress and thoughts are welcomed.
It is a SuperGeeII wing with a carbon rod spar system kevlar leading edge under 2 layers of .72 glass. Wing weights is 57g & 58g. I will be trying a single layer of 1.6 glass on the second set. Pics so the leading edge after the first rough sand. When I complete the finish work I'll post another pic. I am going with an external controls on the aileron on the first wing. RDS on the second.
Pod and boom is the infamous Raptr setup. Both pods I ordered came in at 26g. I removed the top of the clamshell nose and cleaned out the resin dropped into the nose and got the pod back down to 22g. It finished at 24g (40g with boom) after I reassembled with resin and filler in the nose. I decided to push the boom through the bulkhead which served the raise the front of the boom to get the correct angles for the wing cradle to the boom. The pod failures happen just ahead of the leading edge of the wing. I think this is a vunerable area due to the lever action created on launch with the heavy battery pushed all the way to the front of the pod. To additionally stiffen the pod I cut the top clamshell from the wing forward about 1.75" and glued it together with the bottom. By gluing the top clamshell I move the area being leveraged by the battery forward to a safer spot.
It's a work in progress and thoughts are welcomed.
Here is our newly designed stab mount. Slide on the boom and CA in place. Easy as pie :D
If you haven't seen 'em fly click....
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...48#post5971227
Not the best vid quality but makes me want to go fly!
If you haven't seen 'em fly click....
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...48#post5971227
Not the best vid quality but makes me want to go fly!
Pics of my well used Chinsee. This is after a year of flying and is the same plane as shown in my vids. We have continued to make upgrades this year. We have increased the area of the rudder, changed the layup for the wings and settled on the sul boom instead of the sul skinny. The wings come in at about 52g with the peg and are laid up with .007 carbon spar caps, 1.19 balanced glass with an additional layer of lighter glass in the d-box area. This has increased our launch heights into the 120-130 range. We also have been flying both dihedral and poly versions with good success.
Finally took it out of the box. All up 16oz with 3s 700mah, Axi 2212/34 and thunderbird controller turning a APC 11x5. May be too light...original instructions stated auw 22-28oz. I guess we'll see.
Fun day of flying today. We had 3 different pilots flying chinsee's. One of the pilots has had 2 weekends of experience flying RC. The Chinsee is a great plane for beginners and more experienced pilots. We fly all up last down mini contest every time we are out and have a blast.
I posted a couple of videos in the gallery....
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...48#post5971227
launch high
Ken
I posted a couple of videos in the gallery....
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...48#post5971227
launch high
Ken
June 25th. Nice conditions 90degrees and light wind. Focus of data was launch height only. Launch pre-sets would have helped. All launches had a left roll reducing total height. Flight weight was 128 grams.
Launch High
Ken
Launch High
Ken
Well worth the wait.... :D
My 40" DLG...Alot of fun in a small package
Here are my last couple of open ships





