I know there are a ton of ways to balance a prop but the one that I find most useful is to use a nail hardener. I actually use topcoat plus.
I use a 400grit sand paper to give a tad bit of rough surface to the area I am going to apply it to so it has something to grip onto after I use a alcohol swab on it. Just a fast one or two swipes then sand just a bit. Maybe a few strokes on the first 1/2 inch of the prop tip on the top.
Then I put the prop on the balancer. I have a cheap magnetic unit that works just fine for me.
Then I add just enough to shine the surface and then balance. That way it still looks nice with the tips shinny. I just add MORE to the tip that needs extra for balance. Viola!
You have a cool looking effect AND it is balanced. used colors if you like for aesthetic reasons. As long as the surface is prepped it will work just fine.
If you have any tips or suggestions please feel free to pass them on here.
I might try them myself if they seem like they would be better than my idea.
Need some suggestions.
I am using an old security cam for an fpv plane. Here are my questions.
there is one set of wires I know are for just the cam or at least ALSO for the cam part. It has IR led's, has built in pan and tilt and is IP as well. It has a WiFi card (now removed) and network plug I wont be using.
What I need to know is A: what are the pins in the images for and B: how can I test with out an oscilloscope? Other than trial and error (and not frying the camera)
I was also considering keeping the LED's. It is a 5v system as well.
Thats what I thought I was when I sent off for a Skywalker
a FPV system (from BEVRC)
a DragonLink system for long range rollin
A Eagletree OSD, elogger pro and guardian stab expander
What I have now is an expensive pile of parts, stuff and gluefingers.
Where I am now (photos to follow)
I have the plane assembled.
I have the FPV part working
I have the Dragonlink talking to the Eagletree system.
I have the control surfaces working although the elevATOR IS questionable. Not enough throw in my book. Will be moving to larger (currently 9g servos) servos or servo arms.
I have beefier control horns and all thread rods. Not the included stuff...seems so flimsy!
I got the stuff working tonight and mostly installed. I am building a power distribution board as I have 2 batteries.
One for powering the ESC and motor. He is special that way. It is getting a 3s 5.0a and a 4s 5.0a battery for power and a 3s 3.3 for powering the flight systems so there is no drain on the main batt and the control systems and servos are working on their own system. Yes it is added weight but I feel that it is just better to separate the main draw from the not so main draw. Is it segregation? YES!
I have yet to set the camera up on its own panel. That is being made by hand.
I have set most of the electronics inside and am routing the wires and such so it stays clean and things are in their own space.
The tail section: I have built and installed a spar for the...Continue Reading
Ok so I have begun the build of my long range FPV plane. Well at least putting the components.
I got a HITEC Eclipse 7 pro for that task of controlling my craft in the wild blue. Sounded like a great purchase! until I started putting things in order. It doesn't have a trainer port I can use with my chainlink system. It has one but only runs 4 channels. Not gonna work.
I have a Flysky TH9x! It has a Tx module that I can snap out and plug in the connector and Ill be set!
Ok first...remove the receiver from my hexacoptor and stick it on my plane and set up the LR gear! (evil laughter emanates from my shop)
Ok since I am taking the Flyshy from my hexa...I need to slap the HITEC into the hexa and whamo...done!
I need to set it all up...no worries.
until I get to assigning the switches for the GPS and ATTI and all that wonderful stuff.
Digging in the manual...it says I can...sweet...ok more reading...it's a tad confusing..
It says to set the Tx for HELI...ummm..wait...then I use the sliders...but the sliders. Ok let me see about accro first.
Ok so I can make switches work on the NAZA software....but...I cant get them to work. Wait..what? I have to SLAVE a switch to open a switch in order to make a switch work but it wont let me set end points...WITBH?
Ok let me try the slider thing.
No...not going to be acceptable.
No "stops" can be set and with that you might end up on failsafe before you get to GPS...
crap...let me ask...Continue Reading
Why is it so hard to get something that is already matched and ready to fly so damn hard to get to fly?
I bought a unit that should be ready to fly after being put together. I see it now all the time. Videos of people buying something, put it together and whamo... its doing magical things.
Liars. Everyone of them. They aren't telling you of the hours of work tweeking it. The hours researching and forums hoping to find someone that can help them with the multitudes of problems that always seem to happen from the start to the end of a build.
This hobby is obviously full of people that either are professional builders and programmers and have the exact matching everything for something to work right.
Maybe that's why a pre-assembled and radioed unit is so expensive.
It cost almost 1200 for a box of parts from a well known multicoptor maker. They are "matched" and paired and ready to fly. Just drop in a receiver and go. LIES!
Drop in a receiver, pull hair out
cuse at everything in a 50 mile radius
contact the "gurus"
info doesnt work
charge batteries for the 96.5th time
Im nearly finished with this hobby
(update to build attempt #3)
Ok.. DJI F550 all built and connected.
Got the whole kit so I wouldn't be using anything but DJI rated stuff.
i am running the 2.02 rev on the FC (came with it)
So it's NAZA controller ...Continue Reading