There are so many questions cropping up about what settings people are using with the above combo for various helis that it's getting difficult to find the info, even using the thread search machine.
Since HiSky's resident pilot Alan set mine up to work as close to perfectly as it comes with my HCP100, I thought I'd start posting the info on my blog to make it easier for folks to find. Also means if I lose my own settings for any particular reason, they're easy for ME to find again .
As and when I dig up the info for other helis I will post it here too. Meantime the settings below will be a good starting point for anyone wanting to use the TH9X and T6 with the HCP100/V922 helis.
Please note, unless indicated otherwise, the settings listed are for the TH9X running STOCK firmware. If anyone has other settings which work well, please feel free to post them up here too. If anyone wants to post up settings with other firmware - ER9X, OpenTX, etc - don't be shy. Depending on whether enough info comes in to start getting confusing I can always open fresh threads for the alternative SW and shove the entries around to suit.
Happy flying guys,
Settings for HiSky HCP100/WL Toys V922
Set WL-T6 to Futaba mode - 2x green lights.
Type select: HELI / HELI3-1 (120° swash)
Reversed - rudder
With the Flysky TH9X (don't know about the Turnigy and others) when you change the model type (plane, heli1, etc) it asks "reverse throttle?". I found out recently that if you hit menu it means yes and exit means no, so remember and take your blades off before you bind the first time in case it goes straight to full throttle
ID2 flat 100%
ID1 & ID2 linear 0-100%
ail, ele, thr, pit 65%
all others 100%
D/R & expo:
switch off - all 100, expo 25
switch on - all 100, expo 0
A couple of questions came up regarding this today, so I decided to put it on my blog to make it easier to find.
The question was posed by a fellow member about using a bigger battery to increase load carrying capacity. As I have some 2000mAh F45 upgrade Li-Ion batteries lying about doing nothing since my F45 is now full BL, and I also have an F45 main motor in the V912, I thought I'd give it a try.
For anyone who can't be bothered to watch the whole vid or listen to me babbling on, the CG is well forward cos the battery is a good deal heavier than stock. To counter the forward momentum I whacked the elev sub trim on my FS TH9X to -120. Still goes slightly forward, but it's nothing I wouldn't otherwise deliberately set up anyway. Surprisingly enough I still have enough reverse elev on the sticks to bring the bird to a stop if I have to.
One thing I'll have to do is either move the battery mount or the cabling for the battery connector and on/off switch to get the CG back a little. Reckon that'll have to wait til the flying weather is duff again though cos the outdoor season has been short enough here this year so far .
Finally got round to collecting the info and parts to enable me to get rid of the stock tail motor and PCB on my F45. The main reasons for doing this mod were:
1. Sick of replacing tail motors.
2. To let me do banked turns on my F45. For anyone who isn't aware, the way the stock PCB is set up means that the cyclic response is proportionally diminished when you apply rudder (thanks to fauconnier for discovering that one).
3. One less TX to cart around if I want to fly both my F45 and my V912.
4. To see if I could.
The parts I used are listed below. I already had the RX as it came delivered with my FS TH9X, but since I wanted to have the parts listed together and only know how to include photos at the end of the post I decided to look for a link to it .
I would actually recommend a smaller RX if you're not just using stuff which is lying around, since the canopy is pretty crowded with that one under it.
The tail mount was made out of a 2mm CF sheet. To fix it onto the tail boom I used a spare vertical tail fin mount with a couple of M2.5 x 10mm screws, as the original screws are too short. Don't know how long it'll hold, but it seems solid enough at the moment.
Many thanks go out to BThirsk and zdawg for their tireless help and patience...Continue Reading
Got given a WL Toys V922 as a present a couple of weeks ago, so decided it was time to step up from FP flybar flying to CP. Due to lack of space indoors and inclement weather my first two weeks were taken up just with learning to hover tail-in.
Finally managed to get down to the park today after a rather abortive attempt at improving my skills surrounded by a church, trees, and cobblestones, so instead of clogging up the V922 thread with comedy videos I thought I'd start a blog to document my progress - or lack thereof .
Here are the first 3 videos. Still a long way from trying 3D... I'll be happy first of all when I can finally get the heli to fly where I want it to the right way up .
In the meantime, any questions from other novices, or advice, tips, and tricks from more experienced pilots are - as always - more than welcome
Here's a pic and a short vid showing how to get rid of the tail bobbing on your F45, with a quick hover test at the end.
Many thanks go to René Hornych of the Czech Republic who was, as far as I can gather, the person who thought of the mod, and to RCGroup member tykes06 who sent me the link to René's video.
Being resident in Germany and today being a Sunday, I couldn't go and buy a spring to do this. Fortunately my genius of a wife had some wire in her crafting corner and suggested I just make my own spring . The pic below shows everything you need for the mod.
Don't you just love it when The Wife not only approves of your hobby (makes it easier to get funds for more helis ), but actually actively gets INVOLVED in it .
The actual BL conversion has been well documented in many other places, but what has been missing up til now is collated information on programming the ESC and proper binding procedure when doing the mod with the 3rd generation (flat gyro) PCB WITHOUT the Aliexpress BL kit, i.e. just using the standard favourite EH200 BL motor and the Turnigy Basic 18A ESC.
The purpose of this blog entry is to have this information - kindly provided by zdawg and Mr.X11 - available on video in one easy-to-find place.
Hope this helps you avoid some of the trials and tribulations I had doing my BL mod .
Fin (aka tiggertoo1962)
first off, the ESC programming...
Most of you who watch this will of course notice that at 3:20 or so, you disconnect the power lead to the ESC... NOT the PCB. Me and my monday morning brain cells .