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Archive for January, 2013
Posted by OldOz | Jan 20, 2013 @ 04:00 PM | 1,833 Views
Better Battery -
This (from many contributors) seems the best for f45
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=23820
or alternate link (same battery, I think) -
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...iver_Pack.html
B]Will require some minor mods to battery holder[/B], but fits well otherwise and has right connectors.
Posted by OldOz | Jan 16, 2013 @ 01:03 AM | 2,329 Views
Paperclip Mod -
The basic idea is to take a standard (or, preferably, one size up) paper clip and carefully shape it round the dogbone guide as per the picture. It tedious, but should be a neat fit and stay in place without help when you finish.
Then carefully go round the upper and lower parerclip/plasic join with 5 min epoxy - making sure none gets in the guide slots, of course.

I usually solder the 2 loose ends together as well, but this isn't really essential.
Also - I have done the job without removing the rotor head, just a bit more awkward.
Posted by OldOz | Jan 14, 2013 @ 08:01 AM | 3,160 Views
FWIW, my own ‘must do’ new F45 checklist (after initial hover test) - all page Nos refer to main F45 thread:
1) Install flybar bumper on main boom
2) ‘Paperclip and epoxy glue’ reinforcement of buckle (dogbone) loop guides on rotor head (see p184) – Or Hinnerk’s full rebuild mod when they fail (same page). Done both, on different F45s.
3) Check insulation around the main motor terminals – add heatshrink (or tape) if faulty. The canopy pushes hard on these wires, and a short here will total the FET on the main PCB instantly. Others have reported – and I’ve noted one of mine - coming OoTB with damaged insulation.
4) Anchor the PCB to support struts with glue gun. Similarly anchor other subassemblies to main PCB. Particularly gyro, if not flat type.
5) Remove at least 3 of the 5 tailrotor motor cover supports for improved airflow.
6) (nice, but not essential) Solid rod replacement for tube landing gear skids (the stock tube cracks very easily in front of the forward skid support). Or shove aluminium coathanger wire up stock skids to reinforce.

And for better fff, at the expense of a little stability –
7) Shim both blades (3-4 plastic binder reinforcement rings on each blade work well). The blades should be (only just) able to turn the rotor without shifting.
8) Remove horizontal stabiliser and support tubes from the boom. Add an equivalent weight (about 10g) of Bostik blu-tack (or hot glue) inside the nose tip of the...Continue Reading