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Posted by Stoersender | Oct 07, 2012 @ 12:38 PM | 1,835 Views
So the 8° wooden blades broke today... I hit a bush from above once and one just broke off



Well... at least I got new xtreme blades yesterday.
Now I had an excuse to try them right away



These are the best blades I've flown so far.
Little less pitch than the stock ones. The tail motor is nearly able to keep up hitting the throttle hard.
Posted by Stoersender | Oct 07, 2012 @ 09:28 AM | 1,847 Views
I've drafted two holders for now.
The first one will use the original holder + epoxy so that the new motor fits right into the old gearbox



The idea I'm planning to use right now is, to create a new holder from scratch. I calculated it's volume and then the weight.
It'll be 7-10gr heavy, depending how thick it will be.



I also considered the zero gravity line of the motor + prop:

...Continue Reading
Posted by Stoersender | Oct 02, 2012 @ 04:39 AM | 4,858 Views
So the ESC and EH200 from Hobbyking arrived at my local customs office last friday
Yesterday I've completed the main motor mod. Tail will be done soon

The difficult part was, placing all those wires. I wanted to hide the ESC inside the helicopter, because I didn't want to alter the F45's appearance.

Step by step:

I bought this 10 tooth pinion:



Ritzel Motorritzel 10 Z für 2,3mm Welle (Form C)

To tighten the pinon with the motor shaft I had to file a flat surface onto the shaft, so that the grub screw fixes the pinion to the motor shaft.


...Continue Reading
Posted by Stoersender | Sep 25, 2012 @ 11:29 AM | 2,047 Views
Waaaaah... main motor just died on me.
At least I was only hovering around
Was in the air for around two mins... main motor not even hand-hot.

Now I can't wait for customs to clear my brushless motor...
Posted by Stoersender | Sep 25, 2012 @ 06:13 AM | 2,592 Views
I had a few thoughts about a brushless tail conversion.

My thoughts so far:
I plan to use the original motor holder and mod it with epoxy and stuff, so the new outrunner will fit:


Posted by Stoersender | Sep 24, 2012 @ 11:18 AM | 2,336 Views
I recently bought these two blades:

ESKY HONEYBEE HONEY BEE FP V2 MAIN ROTOR BLADES EK1-0202
3DPro Symmetrical Wooden Main Blades for Honey Bee FP2




Tell you at the beginning: with the stock motor, both blades don't lift the heli very high at full throttle.
  • Wooden blades: 30-40cm up
  • HB FP2 blades: 90-120cm up

Pitch rates:

Wooden blades have 8° pitch.
HB FP2 have the same pitch, just like the stock ones (about 13-14°). But they are thinner and a little wider than the stock ones... maybe that's the problem

...Continue Reading
Posted by Stoersender | Sep 19, 2012 @ 09:41 AM | 2,074 Views
I'm just playing around with photoshop a little bit... I was curious how the F45's canopy would look in an orange colour:



I really like a neon orange on it... but I'm not entirely sure about the look
only thing I have to figure out: which type of paint I could use. I fear using normal spray paint, because the canopy is so flexible.

Next step will be to know which type of plastic is used for the canopy.

After googling a lot if come up with two possible materials:
  • PP polypropylene
  • PA polyamide

I found that site: http://www.centroplast.de/de/030-Anwendungen/010-Anwendungstechnik/060-erkennen-von-kunststoffen-text.php (it is in german, sorry )
so tomorrow or the day after tomorrow I will burn a little piece from the canopy to determine which material it is:


Posted by Stoersender | Sep 19, 2012 @ 08:54 AM | 2,393 Views
So yesterday I placed a red led on the side, so I'm able to see the binding status.
Only bad thing was, that in bright daylight you weren't able to see the light. I used a tinted red led... dimming is too high
This night an idea popped up in my head:
why not using two leds, one on each side. Different colours, so you would be able to detect which side is facing you much easier. Especially because days are getting shorter and darker here, it helps a lot.
So far i can detect the position of the heli by three facts:
  • red one -> left
  • blue one -> right
  • two red or green ones -> back

Few facts about the two leds:
  • red consumpts 2V
  • blue constumpts 3,5V
  • in total: 5,5V

Because of that I wanted to connect both of them parallel and add a series resitor before each one, so they would have the maximum voltage.
Resistors were:
  • red 150 Ω
  • blue 75 Ω



So, while working I had the idea, why not testing the camera port I'm not using; connecting the leds to this one. I thought that hitting the camera button on the remote triggers the power of the port on and off. Unfortunately it has steady 5V during the hole time. The camera's on and off function must be based on a digital signal.
Hmpf... a positioning light that can be switched on when needed would have been nice

So back to the original plan, using the searchlight port:

Tested with a steady 5V generator it worked fine. Bright as hell.
But after I connected the plug to the helicopters pcb, I got a very very dimmed light.
The...Continue Reading
Posted by Stoersender | Sep 18, 2012 @ 10:30 AM | 2,113 Views
Till now I never used the search light led. That thing is a big joke in my opinion
I had it unplugged all the time because I sometimes forgot about the wires when I put the canopy off the heli.

It's function is useful in my opinion - indicating the binding status.

So I moved it to the left side and replaced the white led with a red one.

First I measured the voltage and amp emitted by the port, then looked up the voltage a red led can handle and calculated the series resistor.

port
  • 5V
red led
  • 1,6-2,2V
  • 20mA
This results in 3V/20mA = 150 Ω


So I used a 150 Ω series resitor, soldered it to the +:



Clipped the white led off the wire


Soldered everything together and put a heat shrink around everything
...Continue Reading
Posted by Stoersender | Sep 18, 2012 @ 06:54 AM | 2,224 Views
I recieved the first parts for the brushless main motor mod:



10 tooth pinion should arrive soon.
EH200 and ESC are on the way

ESC will be set here:




The pink lines will be the wiring
Posted by Stoersender | Sep 18, 2012 @ 06:50 AM | 2,111 Views
The flybar hit the tail boom pretty hard sometimes...
Also the removal of the horizontal fin and the support bars resulted in some bangs.
So I just applied adhesive foam and and some sponge rubber for counteraction:



Removed parts from the tail boom:



Heli is very reactive now...
Posted by Stoersender | Sep 18, 2012 @ 06:44 AM | 2,129 Views
I've modded the main blades and the blade holders so I would be able to bend them backwards for easier transportation:



All I did was using a dremel to (carefully!) saw off little pieces:


...Continue Reading
Posted by Stoersender | Sep 18, 2012 @ 06:28 AM | 2,067 Views

Posted by Stoersender | Sep 18, 2012 @ 06:24 AM | 2,047 Views
One of the skids broke a second time... already repaired it with a wooden stick and epoxy:



I replaced both of the skids with a full alloy bar:



I used black spray paint and a clear paint for the finish.
2gr heavier and durable as hell
Posted by Stoersender | Sep 18, 2012 @ 05:49 AM | 2,032 Views
So I recieved another battery for the bird:
Turnigy nano-tech 2200mah 2S 25~50C Lipo Pack



and a Lipo Buzzer:



Because of the new batterypack I had to exchange the JST with a XT60 connector.
I used a dremel to cut through the plastic. After that i glued a XT60 connector to a 2s balancer connector. Both of them glued with 2k epoxy to the base.
...Continue Reading
Posted by Stoersender | Sep 18, 2012 @ 05:34 AM | 2,991 Views
MJX F45:
unmodded and everything is stock.



The very first thing I did after I got her, was installing heat sinks at the main and tail motor.
I shortended the main heat sink a little bit. Otherwise I wouldn't been able to place the canopy.



For the tail heat sink I sawed through the plastic, surrounding the tail motor.
I still left 2/5th of it in place, so the electronics on the rear will be protected from dirt and stuff.

...Continue Reading