The GA-006 is a quite reliable USB powered mini charger. It has 2 independent charging circuits designed for a charge current of 330mA.
Some ingenious folks opened the case and discovered some hardware preparations for a later 4-channel version that never hit the market. This opened the possibility for an easy DIY upgrade.
The following mod is quite old and came up 2012 here.
I've chosen to take these infos and add some own for an easy entry.
The mod works flawlessly for me.
Your mileage may vary, especially if you are not used to solder small (and Í do mean it!) SMD parts and overheat them without noticing.
Some size comparison you gonna be faced with:
So take care!
The following mod will immediatly void any warranty.
The OP is not responsible for any consequences that may occur.
You are doing this at your own risk.
The modded charger will draw up to 2A from your USB socket, depending from your chosen charge current version and battery count.
So be sure your USB socket can handle this! Do NOT use a computer USB socket!
Let's feel like a girl in a shoe shop: As one can imagine you will need a
GA-006 - sold sometimes as HM-Mini CP-Z-18 charger.
You can get them on different places, I got mine from Banggood.
Then you'll need some electronic parts:
2 x G5242 lithium 4.2V 500mA Charge Management IC
2 x Losi Micro Connector 2.0 2-Pin with 50mm 24 AWG silicone wire
After some difficulties I finally managed to get a new on the market charger, targeted for beginner/intermediate R/C enthusiasts that want to have a step up from the B6 Clone Wars without spending a hundred bucks or more.
At this point I decided to try the Casal C6P, advertised as an 100W 10A powered charger, offered for USD 31,96 MSRP, usually ~40 USD shipped.
The one I bought from Banggood came in with broken display signal cable (defective from factory), a short communication with Casal's sales manager provided me with a brand new from factory for half the price and delivered by courier.
Thanks for that!
So, what's in the box?
The charger comes with:
6s balance cable PQ/JST-XH
charge cable Deans/4mm banana
DC plug with alligator clips
manual on mini CD
Unfortunately, although being the entry model, it doesn't come with a JST charge plug. So another adapter is needed for all these common smaller 1s and 2s batts.
Charge current range: 0.5-10.0A
Discharge current range: 0.5-5.0A
Maximum charge power: 100W @ 12V DC
Maximum discharge power: 10W
Current drain for balancing: 400mA
Balance accuracy: < 10mV
LiPo/LiIo/LiFe battery cell count: 1-6 series
NiCd/NiMH battery cell count: 1-15 series
Pb battery cell count: 1-10 series (2-20V)
Battery setup memories: 10
Temperature sensor: Yes
Dimension(LxWxD): 122 x 80 x 25mm
Real men don't read manuals, so I grabbed a 250W AC unit and connected the...Continue Reading
Finally I threw together my bigger fun case:
Made from a cheap aluminum tool case with tool inlay and some pick'n'pluck foam.
I just removed the tool pouches from the inlay and glued the foam layers instead.
small water level
10x 600mAh batts
8x 250mAh batts
It is my favourite case for all occasions, just take it out for hours of fun.
Mostly now sitting in my trunk for flying sessions at work
My newest toy arrived - the HK Micro Q-Bot - basically a clone of the HiSky FF120.
It comes with an rebranded HT8 adapter, to connect with any PPM trainer port of any decent hobby grade transmitter and can be fired up via the TX or with an inbuilt 1s LiPo.
To use the Turnigy 9x's charging jack there are some changes needed, though.
First I took away the shrink tube of the adapter wiring:
1. V+ from power cord is feeded from the outer plug contact - the 9x has a center positive jack. So either change the jack or the wiring.
It gets worse: The red center wire is not only clipped at the servo plug end, but not connected in the banana plug itself also!!
2. GND is collected from the trainer port - somehow I feel about being this the reason for the lags often mentioned.
I decided to build a new cable.
First you have to enable the TX to deliver some voltage through the charge jack - a diode preventing this. You may bridge the diode and insert a fuse to protect the TX.
I bridged the diode with a switch, only to be triggered when flying the Q-Bot.
Now wiring up a new power lead (thanks to an old power supply for donating the plug) ...Continue Reading
The Hubsan X4 is the smallest RTF quad on the market (yet).
Due to its size (or lack of) and colour it has a quite low visual profile.
So flying outside - where it belongs - it is really missing some navlights.
The search is over!
Finally, after 1 month intensive testing with two 9116 I'm able to present you a solution for fast dying tail motors:
The Direct Drive Tail Unit of a ESKY Honey Bee CP3
It improves the behavior noticeably, you will get MUCH more tail authority, you'll notice when flying FF right turns where the stock tail doesn't do much.
It is no real plug and play mod, but manageable even for the unexperienced.
an old stock tail unit
Esky Honey Bee CP3 Tail Motor 002445 3.84 $
Esky Honey Bee CP3 CPX CT RC Tail Blade Set Black 002386 1.19$
Esky Honey Bee CP3 CPX RC Tail Motor Heat-Sink 002447 2.00$ (You'll not need it - the motor barely gets warm in a 9116. But for optics)
Total - including shipping: 5.03 $ (at banggood, without heat sink)
Tools: Soldering iron, a little hacksaw, exacto knife.
Now the fun begins:
You have to mod the old stock motor holder according to the picture. Just cut everything away but the motor "cup".
As the original stock tail motor has flat sides, and the new motor is round you may take a Dremel and a fitting cutting head to the inside of the motor mount and make it round to get a perfect fit. (thanks to eagle-eyed Steve!)
But it works well enough without such perfectionism.
Solder the cables of the old OEM tail motor to the new motor. ...Continue Reading