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Posted by mikefromgermany | Jun 08, 2014 @ 04:25 AM | 5,337 Views
Walkera GA-006 - 4 channel modification

The GA-006 is a quite reliable USB powered mini charger. It has 2 independent charging circuits designed for a charge current of 330mA.
Some ingenious folks opened the case and discovered some hardware preparations for a later 4-channel version that never hit the market. This opened the possibility for an easy DIY upgrade.
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Description: GA-006 stock PCB

The following mod is quite old and came up 2012 here.
I've chosen to take these infos and add some own for an easy entry.
The mod works flawlessly for me.
Your mileage may vary, especially if you are not used to solder small (and Í do mean it!) SMD parts and overheat them without noticing.
Some size comparison you gonna be faced with: Name: closeup.jpg
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Description: 0603 and 0805 sized LEDs

So take care!

The following mod will immediatly void any warranty.
The OP is not responsible for any consequences that may occur.
You are doing this at your own risk.
The modded charger will draw up to 2A from your USB socket, depending from your chosen charge current version and battery count.
So be sure your USB socket can handle this! Do NOT use a computer USB socket!

Shopping list

Let's feel like a girl in a shoe shop: As one can imagine you will need a
  • GA-006 - sold sometimes as HM-Mini CP-Z-18 charger.
You can get them on different places, I got mine from Banggood.

Then you'll need some electronic parts:
  • 2 x G5242 lithium 4.2V 500mA Charge Management IC
  • 2 x Losi Micro Connector 2.0 2-Pin with 50mm 24 AWG silicone wire
  • 2 x red 3mm LEDs
  • 4 x 1
...Continue Reading
Posted by mikefromgermany | Jan 17, 2014 @ 02:08 PM | 5,743 Views
Casal C6P
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Description: C6P Charger
After some difficulties I finally managed to get a new on the market charger, targeted for beginner/intermediate R/C enthusiasts that want to have a step up from the B6 Clone Wars without spending a hundred bucks or more.

At this point I decided to try the Casal C6P, advertised as an 100W 10A powered charger, offered for USD 31,96 MSRP, usually ~40 USD shipped.

The one I bought from Banggood came in with broken display signal cable (defective from factory), a short communication with Casal's sales manager provided me with a brand new from factory for half the price and delivered by courier.
Thanks for that!

So, what's in the box?
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Description: Accessories
The charger comes with:
  • 6s balance cable PQ/JST-XH
  • balance board
  • charge cable Deans/4mm banana
  • DC plug with alligator clips
  • rubber feet
  • manual on mini CD
Unfortunately, although being the entry model, it doesn't come with a JST charge plug. So another adapter is needed for all these common smaller 1s and 2s batts.

  • Charge current range: 0.5-10.0A
  • Discharge current range: 0.5-5.0A
  • Maximum charge power: 100W @ 12V DC
  • Maximum discharge power: 10W
  • Current drain for balancing: 400mA
  • Balance accuracy: < 10mV
  • LiPo/LiIo/LiFe battery cell count: 1-6 series
  • NiCd/NiMH battery cell count: 1-15 series
  • Pb battery cell count: 1-10 series (2-20V)
  • Battery setup memories: 10
  • Temperature sensor: Yes
  • Weight: 235g
  • Dimension(LxWxD): 122 x 80 x 25mm

First Steps
Real men don't read manuals, so I grabbed a 250W AC unit and connected the...Continue Reading
Posted by mikefromgermany | May 04, 2013 @ 03:03 PM | 6,078 Views
Today I tried the P799 props on my V929.

I had them in the shelf for a looong time and merely bought them because they are dead cheap:
2 USD a set: http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-P7...6-p-59252.html

Thats even 1 $ less than an OEM set, not to speak of four GWS props that are even 3 $ more.

Unpacked they look the same as stock props, same size and form but with a slightly increased angle of attack.
MQX lookalike black and white design, hard to tell them apart.
Plastic material seems to be the same than stock, as is the weight, 2 grams each.
The P799 props are well balanced, no additional weight needed.

Because of the increased angle of attack it was no surprise to get slightly more thrust than stock, not as much as the GWS by far.

They do NOT fit as they are on the V929/949 carbon shafts - you have to drill them out with a 3mm drill, the mounting hole is 2.9mm and tapering a little.
Don't try to pry them on with force - you'll end with a stuck carbon shaft that didn't make its way completely in.

State of the art still are the GWS props, but for all who don't want to spend the money on them and need cheap learners props - take P799 props and save a few bucks.


Posted by mikefromgermany | Apr 30, 2013 @ 04:44 PM | 6,352 Views
Finally I threw together my bigger fun case:
Made from a cheap aluminum tool case with tool inlay and some pick'n'pluck foam.
I just removed the tool pouches from the inlay and glued the foam layers instead.

Containing now:
  • TH9x
  • DSM-Module
  • Flysky-Module
  • HiSky-Module
  • MQX
  • Micro Q-Bot
  • nQX/X4 Hybride
  • small water level
  • voltage checker
  • X4 props
  • LB props
  • MQX props
  • small screwdriver
  • 10x 600mAh batts
  • 8x 250mAh batts
It is my favourite case for all occasions, just take it out for hours of fun.
Mostly now sitting in my trunk for flying sessions at work

Posted by mikefromgermany | Apr 12, 2013 @ 05:29 PM | 8,087 Views
My newest toy arrived - the HK Micro Q-Bot - basically a clone of the HiSky FF120.
It comes with an rebranded HT8 adapter, to connect with any PPM trainer port of any decent hobby grade transmitter and can be fired up via the TX or with an inbuilt 1s LiPo.
To use the Turnigy 9x's charging jack there are some changes needed, though.

First I took away the shrink tube of the adapter wiring:

Surprise, surprise!
1. V+ from power cord is feeded from the outer plug contact - the 9x has a center positive jack. So either change the jack or the wiring.
It gets worse: The red center wire is not only clipped at the servo plug end, but not connected in the banana plug itself also!!
2. GND is collected from the trainer port - somehow I feel about being this the reason for the lags often mentioned.

I decided to build a new cable.

First you have to enable the TX to deliver some voltage through the charge jack - a diode preventing this. You may bridge the diode and insert a fuse to protect the TX.
I bridged the diode with a switch, only to be triggered when flying the Q-Bot.

Now wiring up a new power lead (thanks to an old power supply for donating the plug)
...Continue Reading
Posted by mikefromgermany | Mar 07, 2013 @ 08:16 AM | 6,616 Views
Just a new project - making the X4 frame FlySky compatible by implanting a H36 board.

Measurement confirmed - it will fit with some minor modifications.
Some things have to be changed:

1. The shell has to be reamed:

2. The board has to be cropped:

3. Checkup for fitting, some components have to be moved to the other side of the PCB.
...Continue Reading
Posted by mikefromgermany | Jan 14, 2013 @ 04:16 AM | 12,546 Views
Hubsan X4 illuminated 1.0

The Hubsan X4 is the smallest RTF quad on the market (yet).
Due to its size (or lack of) and colour it has a quite low visual profile.
So flying outside - where it belongs - it is really missing some navlights.

This is my simple solution, I took:
  • 4x 0603 LEDs: 2x blue, 2x red
  • 2x resistors: 1x 22 Ω, 1x 47Ω
  • 32 gauge magnet wire

Soldering the 0603 LED was a pain in the **s

Wired according to following pictures:
...Continue Reading
Posted by mikefromgermany | Jan 10, 2013 @ 05:37 PM | 11,226 Views
9116 Direct Drive Tail

The search is over!
Finally, after 1 month intensive testing with two 9116 I'm able to present you a solution for fast dying tail motors:

The Direct Drive Tail Unit of a ESKY Honey Bee CP3

It improves the behavior noticeably, you will get MUCH more tail authority, you'll notice when flying FF right turns where the stock tail doesn't do much.

It is no real plug and play mod, but manageable even for the unexperienced.

You'll need:
  • an old stock tail unit
  • Esky Honey Bee CP3 Tail Motor 002445 3.84 $
  • Esky Honey Bee CP3 CPX CT RC Tail Blade Set Black 002386 1.19$
  • Esky Honey Bee CP3 CPX RC Tail Motor Heat-Sink 002447 2.00$ (You'll not need it - the motor barely gets warm in a 9116. But for optics)
Total - including shipping: 5.03 $ (at banggood, without heat sink)

Tools: Soldering iron, a little hacksaw, exacto knife.

Now the fun begins:

You have to mod the old stock motor holder according to the picture. Just cut everything away but the motor "cup".
As the original stock tail motor has flat sides, and the new motor is round you may take a Dremel and a fitting cutting head to the inside of the motor mount and make it round to get a perfect fit. (thanks to eagle-eyed Steve!)
But it works well enough without such perfectionism.

Solder the cables of the old OEM tail motor to the new motor.
...Continue Reading
Posted by mikefromgermany | Jan 03, 2013 @ 08:01 AM | 7,674 Views
Double Horse 9116 Troubleshooting Manual


May it help a lot.
Posted by mikefromgermany | Oct 13, 2012 @ 02:44 AM | 19,138 Views
Double Horse 9116

Compiled from contributions by owners of the DH9116 RC helicopter and members of RC Groups Discussion Forums via the
Double horse 9116 Heli Thread" and
"The new Double Horse 9116 Heli Thread"

Dedicated to Mick, aka „Stormforce“, who did a fantastic job with his
“Double Horse 9116 Technical Manual”, downloadable at http://customers.skymesh.net.au/~mat...ech_manual.pdf

Thanks a bunch, Mick, you did a remarkable job tutoring new RC-pilots like me and making them understand their 9116 MUCH better!

Rest in Peace, mate!

aka “mikefromgermany”

Let’s get started:

You didn't listen to others or asked nobody before,
got blinded by advertisements and well spoken promises and
finally had been badly misled by the hobby-grade-look of this bird?
(like me..)

So you got yourself a 9116, dialed it in, flew it
and now
encountered problems or did a crash and broke something.
As a beginner you have no clue where to begin.

Maybe here’s something to solve it.

For all problems and solutions listed below it is required the heli was or is dialed in according to the "Double Horse 9116 Technical Manual" (link above)

If you can’t find anything regarding your problem, feel free to ask at
"The new Double Horse 9116 Heli Thread"

Frequently Occuring Damages

TX doesn't bind
You switched the heli on, the TX also, the beeping stopped but the red LED still is flashing instead of going solid?
...Continue Reading
Posted by mikefromgermany | Sep 16, 2012 @ 10:16 AM | 7,381 Views
V 929 illuminated

Aerodynamic canopy made of clear acrylic tear drop (from a flower-shop 50ct) painted luminescend yellow from the inside and enlighted with a (quite strong - never handle without proper goggles or your retina will be burned) UV-LED inside.
Legmode done in lumo-yellow 3mm nylon thread (from a gas-powered string trimmer)

Creepy at night, excellent to be seen from dusk till dawn


V929 with UV-Light (0 min 13 sec)