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Posted by hifinsword | Jul 22, 2014 @ 10:58 AM | 1,107 Views
This is a short description of types of foam I have used and their easily identifiable characteristics.

Types of Foam

Depron - very light weight, brittle; NOTcontact cement safe. DO NOT use Welders Adhesive or forms of contact cement with Depron.

Elapor - blended EPS & EPP

EPO (Expanded Polyolefine) - HH's calls their form of this Z-foam.

EPE (Expanded Polyethelene)

EPP Expanded Polypropylene - (pool noodles) low structural strength; covers with low temp coverings; shipping tape does NOT stick to very well; use a spray adhesive or FoamTac with blemderm, fiberglass tape (drywall type), NexCare, clear surgical tape to reinforce surfaces; breaks clean, high compression strength, poor tension strength; comes in 1.3#, 1.9# densities; Compatible with Epoxy, Regular CA or Goop glues and Acrylic paint;

EPS Expanded Polystyrene - high structural strength; sensitive to heat, CA, polyester resins; Compatible with Epoxy or Polyurethane glues; comes in 1#, 1.5#, 2.0# densities; HH uses EPS on most or all of their UMX airplanes. Do not use CA on EPS unless it is foam-safe.

XPS Extruded Polystyrene

FFF - acronym for Fan Fold Foam (more commonly used as an acronym for Fast Forward Flight)
Posted by hifinsword | Jun 10, 2014 @ 02:45 PM | 1,299 Views
Recharging LiPo batteries - the 80% rule applies to the storage capacity or amperage of the battery, NOT THE VOLTAGE of a battery. For a 1500mAh battery that means it should not be discharged more than 1200mAh (80% of 1500mAh). You won't know that until you recharge the battery. A good charger will tell you how many mAh it took to completely recharge the battery back to 4.2 volts per cell. It should then be at the full capacity of 1500mAh.

A good rule of thumb is to use the nominal voltages associated with each cell, a multiple of 3.7 volts per cell. If you don't go below 3.7 volts per cell, you won't hit Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC) and damage your LiPo battery. Go below the LVC and you will most likely be putting back more than the 80% amp carrying capacity of your battery - NOT GOOD!
Posted by hifinsword | Jun 03, 2014 @ 02:29 PM | 1,533 Views
If you've tightened all the screws involved in the V913 Main Blade Holders, and it looks warped, you've probably mixed up the aluminum plate parts of the main blade holder.

One of the aluminum plates on the V913 main blade holders has an extra hole each side of the opening that lines up with a plastic pin on the corresponding plastic parts of the blade holders. When changing the main blades, it's easy to put the wrong aluminum plate on the blade holders.

Swap the aluminum plate with the extra hole over the plastic parts that attach to the main blades over the proper part. They will fit flush when tightening down the screws.

Or you could buy the new aluminum bling Main Blade Holders/Grip at Hobby-Direct.com. But it will not be available for purchase until early July 2014.
Posted by hifinsword | May 28, 2014 @ 02:41 PM | 1,330 Views
I am using the FX052 tail motor and assembly rather than the stock V913 motor and assembly on both my V913s currently. One is on a raised and extended CF tail boom. The other is on a stock metal V913 tail boom.

The FX052 tail main and pinion gear sizes, and gear ratio allows the tail motor to work more efficiently than the stock V913 tail motor gears. I'm hoping it will last longer than the stock motor. I have 31 and 12 flights on each as of 12 June 2014.

I feel the FX052 tail motor gives me better tail control. The V913 tail boom is 10mm and the FX052 tail boom is 12mm so the replacement assembly needs to be shimmed onto the 10mm boom. Steve_ discusses the FX052 tail motor and assembly more here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2404

To use the FX052 tail motor you must also use the FX052 tail gear assembly. The tail motor mounts (screw holes) and the pinion gear are different from the stock V913 gear assembly. The FX052 tail motor pinion gear is too large to fit thru the opening of the V913 gear housing.

The FX052 tail gear assembly fits on a 12mm tail boom and the V913 uses a 10mm tail boom. Before you shim the FX052 tail gear assembly onto the V913 tail boom, you must melt a hole in the left side of the gear assembly to match the hole in the V913 tail boom or if using the CF boom, you will also need to make a matching hole for a screw in the CF boom.

I shimmed the FX052 tail gear assembly onto the V913 tail boom using thick card stock from my junk...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | May 13, 2014 @ 05:08 AM | 2,523 Views
These are the mods made to my #1 V913.

1) Swashplate mod. Hot glue and paper clip mod discussed in detail here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2139667

2) Tail boom extended with raised tail motor mount to be parallel with main motor shaft. Boom and reinforcements to angle are CF tube and strips. The tail boom was extended about 1 inch, has 1mm thick sidewalls and is 10mm in diameter. The CF reinforcing strips are 4mm wide and 0.6mm thick. Horizontal stabilizing rods and vertical fins are removed. The details are discussed in my "Mini How To" blog here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2152658

3) Tail motor and gear assembly are from the Feilun FX052 helicopter. Some more info here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1576
and here Steve_'s post here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2404

4) Main motor was the Walkera Honey Bee CP 370 Super Motor (3S capable). As of 12 June 2014 the motor is out of action after 10 blazingly hot flights. Both motors do get VERY HOT and I will replace the motor with an Xtreme 380X Ball Bearing motor. I still have yet to T/S the motor to see if it is only the brushes that wore out, or if it is more serious.

5) The stock plastic battery holder is replaced with a Velcro strap.

6) The front light was moved from the position under the canopy chin to under the main gear brace (relocation was required to add the Velcro battery strap).

7) The fake canopy vents were hollowed...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | May 13, 2014 @ 04:30 AM | 2,308 Views
This CAUTION is about removing and reinstalling the shaft collar upside down. When you replace the main shaft bearings or any part on the main shaft in most of these RC model helos, you may end up removing the shaft collar too. It's very easy to put the shaft collar back in upside down. One side has a small ridge and the other is flat. The ridge side goes down against the upper bearing in the upper part of the frame. When I say a small ridge, I mean very small, like about 1mm. If installed the wrong way, you will get too much vertical play in the main shaft.
Posted by hifinsword | Apr 23, 2014 @ 01:47 PM | 2,064 Views
I used carbon fiber (CF) tubing to make my V913 tail boom lighter and at the same time raise it to the same level as the main rotors. This should give the tail motor more authority because of more leverage against the main motor torque. Due to both rotor shafts being at the same level, the right lean has been eliminated. Less work for the tail motor means longer motor life as well.

I used the FX052 tail motor and assembly rather than the stock V913 motor and assembly. The parts for the FX052 tail motor and gear set are becoming hard to find. Here's a link to my post on where to find them as of June 2014. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2530
The FX052 tail assembly main and pinion gearing allows the tail motor to work more efficiently. I'm hoping it will last longer than the stock motor. I already feel the better control the FX052 tail motor gives me. The V913 tail boom is 10mm and the FX052 tail boom is 12mm so the replacement assembly was shimmed onto the 10mm boom. Steve_ discusses the FX052 tail motor and assembly more here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2404

To use the FX052 tail motor you must also use the FX052 tail gear assembly. The tail motor mounts and the pinion gear are different from the stock V913 gear assembly. Also the FX052 tail gear assembly fits on a 12mm tail boom and the V913 uses a 10mm tail boom. Before you shim the FX052 tail gear assembly onto the V913 tail boom, you must melt a hole in the left side of the...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Apr 04, 2014 @ 07:03 AM | 3,290 Views
Discussion: These mods or ideas to improve FF (or FFF) in the V913 can be applied to most helos. They fall into either adding movement to the servos, or moving the Center of Gravity (CG or COG). Either the servo movement is enough to force movement in the intended direction or adjustments can be made to bias the movement in the intended direction. It can be done by adjusting, modifying or replacing servos that do not have enough force or movement to do the job, mechanical adjustments elsewhere, or by moving the CG.

1) Push the rate button on the upper left shoulder of the Tx. This will give the servo arms more movement. Pushing the TURBO button on the upper right shoulder of the Tx also gives the servos more travel but it is only as long as it is pushed. It can be modded by making it a switch thereby enabling it ON permanently as long as the switch is in that position. See the post here on modifying the V912/913 Tx. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=6889
Paragraph 5 (c) below applies.

2) MECHANICAL TRIMMING: Adjust (extend/lengthen) the ELE servo connecting rod for a forward bias of the elevator travel. This is my favorite method for improved FF. This can be done with the trim switch electronically or mechanically by adjusting the servo connecting rod or both. To mechanically adjust the servo connecting rod, follow the steps in my blog here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2109345 . Once the helo is hovering steady in one spot, you can...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Apr 04, 2014 @ 06:03 AM | 3,118 Views
As of early July 2014, HOPEFULLY, there will be an aluminum upgrade to the V913 swashplate. It is made by Heli-Factor. It is supposed to be available thru HobbyDirect in early July 2014, as are an Aluminum Main Blade holder and a Rotor Head or Hub.
Aluminum upgrade swashplate link:http://www.hobby-direct.com/v913-cnc...late_g371.html

If you haven't modded the V913 swashplate, the odds are you will sooner or later, or give up flying the V913. This is a "MUST DO MOD" in order to fly the V913. I've tried to consolidate the most popular ones here for future reference.

1) The ever popular paper clip + hot glue mod by nmemennth

2) The copper tubing and wood screw mod by dan2pkheli

3) The CX4 CNC swashplate mod by fuzzyguy. This link is to his post in modding the V913 top frame plate and the anti-rotation bracket.

Two aluminum swashplates are available for fuzzyguy's swashplate mod.

Link to the LynxHeli.com aluminum swashplate

Or if you prefer, a link to the Xtreme.com aluminum swashplate
Posted by hifinsword | Mar 30, 2014 @ 02:53 PM | 2,323 Views
I wrote down some notes earlier thinking it would help when using a 3S batt on the V913. This blog entry is for using a main motor that is designed to run on 3S batts instead of the stock 2S batts, the stock motor and the F45, etc. replacement motors we have been using. If a 3S designed motor can be made to work with the existing PCB, it should provide more power and hopefully longer flight times than the stock motor provides.

If a tail motor designed for 3S voltage could be found, the ideas should also work for it. In my limited search for 3S tail motors capable of handling 11.1 volts, I've found these candidates. One is the Heli-Max N60 tail motor for the Heli-Max Axe CP. http://www.rcplanet.com/Heli_Max_N60...p/hmxe9553.htm
But at $24.99 each, it's too expensive for my taste. The other is the N60 tail motor for the Blade BSR at $9.99 but it has terrible reviews. http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...sr-EFLH1322#t3
If anyone knows of a better tail motor that might work, please post here.

I got these tips from FlyingTape and Vicio911. I have no electronics knowledge to know if this will work. But from their posts, I have no reason not to believe that it won't, so I'm giving it a try.

Link to FlyingTape's posts on the V912 forum:
link to diodes: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=4234
link to heat sinks: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=4177
link to 3S batteries and connectors: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1438

Link to...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Mar 30, 2014 @ 07:03 AM | 2,298 Views
This is a post of "hard-to-find", uncommon parts and the new Aluminum Bling for the V913.

1) The V913 locking collar or which feala.com calls the "V913 helicopter parts Aluminum sleeve on the hollow pipe". There are some cautions when installing this item here. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1811

2) A V913 basic "set of screws" for the V913.

3) The V913 Flybar pin. Which feala.com calls "the small iron bar for fixing the top bar".

4) The V913 main blade grip sleeves and feathering shaft, which feala.com calls the "Copper sleeve on the main blade grip set and main shaft + Iron stick in the blade grip set".

5) The V913 front LED with wires, also called at Feala.com "the small light in the head".

6) The V913 Main Blade Nuts and Bolts.

7) The new aluminum V913 Main Blade Grip/Holder.

8) The new aluminum V913 Swash Plate.

9) The new aluminum V913 Main Hub or Head

You can find the 1st 6 of them here: http://feala.com/WLtoys-WL-V913-rc-h...V913-parts.htm
Linparts.com also carries them but the shipping charges may be a little higher.

Items 7-9 can be found at Hobby-Direct.com but they will not be available for order before early July 2014....Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2014 @ 11:46 AM | 2,134 Views
To parallel charge any batteries, you will need a charger with a power supply (can be included or added on) and a parallel charge cable/board. I don't remember where I bought my ready-made parallel charging cable but BuddyRC.com should have them. A balance cable won't do you any good until you start using multiple cell batteries. A parallel charge cable is all you need for 1S batteries since there is no balance plug on 1S batteries.

When I charge multiple 1S or any batteries for that matter, always bring them up to the same voltage first before plugging them in. For instance, if I have 3 batts, 1st is at 3.71volts, 2nd is at 3.80volts and the 3rd is at 3.94volts, I put the 1st one on and charge to 3.8ish (within 0.1 volts). At that point I stop the charging and add the 2nd battery. When the 1st and 2nd are close to 3.94volts I stop the charging and add the 3rd battery and charge to 4.2volts.

If all the batts are 500mAh batts, I can charge at 1C using 1.5Amps or 1500mAh on the charger. I usually charge less than 1C to keep the heat down and extend the batt's life. But if doing the above procedure and starting with the 1st batt alone, I start at 300 or 400mAh until the 2nd batt is added. Then you can increase the amperage to whatever you calculate the rate you want. With 2 x 500mAh batts, I would charge about 700mAh and after adding the 3rd batt I would bump up the amps to about 1200mAh. The total at 1C would be 1500mAh or 1.5Amps but I prefer less than 1C.

Higher rated...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2014 @ 11:01 AM | 2,349 Views
Discussion: This procedure is intended for Fixed Pitch (FP) helos pilots to set up their helo to fly a stable hover relatively hands-free. It is for helos with only 2 servo links to the swashplate.

Generally Collective Pitch (CP) helos must have a level swashplate. Many first time FP pilots make the mistake of trying to level the swashplate of their FP birds. A level swashplate may, or may not allow your FP bird to hover hands off. What is important is whether or not you can enter a stable hover hands-free with your helo, regardless of the swashplate position, level or not.

There are FP conversions helos that have FP heads on CP frames, and have 3 servo links to the swashplate. This procedure does not apply to them or CP helos.

Step 1: Zero out any trim to the Aileron (AIL) and Elevator (ELE) on the transmitter (Tx) controls. If the Tx has sub-trim in a menu or sub-menu setting, zero that out also.

If you are only adjusting for drift, skip to Step 3. This assumes servo arms are already adjusted at 90 degrees to direction of travel on all servos.

Step 2:
(WARNING: If replacing servos, do not attach servo arms to servos, or links to servo arms until the 90 degree position is determined. A servo arm moving against another part may cause jamming and break the servo.)

(WARNING: Do not move servo arms with power applied to servos. It may damage the servos by inducing a overcurrent situation.)

Turn on the helo and bind. Note any servo arms not at 90 degrees to the...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 20, 2014 @ 03:28 PM | 2,560 Views
This is my favorite link for a 'how-to' when it comes to a cheap method of balancing main blades on a helicopter. It is a blog entry on Chap1012's blog.
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 05:58 PM | 2,199 Views
John Salt's site on Helicopters. Great info for the beginner.

CaptJac's "3D is NOT for everyone" forum on RCGs.

NoFlyZone's "Beginners Guide to Motor and Prop Selection" forum on RCGs.

FliesLikeABeagle's software to pick motors and props.

Sandancer's Build Log on the Schottky Bus-Tie Circuit.

HeadUpRC's link to airplane props.
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 05:33 PM | 2,198 Views
Medium voltage Battery & ESC connectors - which gender contacts go where?

IMPORTANT NOTE: The gender of all RC connectors is determined by the plastic housing, NOT the metal terminals.
And that's confusing because some connectors use both male & female housings in the same connector!

HXT 4mm connectors have male AND female metal terminals in the positive and negative side of the housing connector. They are also known as 4mm Banana connectors. The HXT/4mm positive red wire of the battery uses a female housing and a female metal terminal inside. The HXT/4mm negative black wire of the battery uses a smaller male plastic housing and male metal terminal inside.

SuperTigre connectors look the same as HXT/4mm Banana connectors, but have ONLY male, or ONLY female 4mm metal terminals in the battery side of the connectors, or in the ESC/device side.

SuperTigre batteries have metal female terminals inside male/female sides of the housing. The battery's negative side (black wire) is the male (smaller) housing; the battery's positive side (red wire) is the larger (female) housing. The SuperTigre ESC or device connector has male metal connectors inside male/female sides of the housing. The negative side (black wire) the ESC/device is the female (larger) housing; the positive side (red wire) is the smaller (male) housing.

EC2/3/5 battery connectors have male (smaller) plastic housings with metal female terminals inside. EC2/3/5 ESC or device connectors use a larger (female) housing with male terminals inside. The ESC larger female plastic housing/connector fits around the battery male plastic/housing connector.
Side note (EC3 = 3.5mm metal terminals)

Deans connectors have the same size housings. Batteriers have metal female terminals/connectors and ESC/devices have metal male terminals/connectors that protrude out from the connector.

Another whole category of connectors have to do with 1S batteries, JST connectors, balance connectors and servo or miscellaneous connectors. The best RCGs resource for such things is jj604's forum/thread on them here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1493712
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 05:18 PM | 2,282 Views
This link shows the time it takes to parallel charge multiple batteries and gives the charger requirements. It's a Charging Calculator

5 Outlet Universal Charge Cable from BuddyRC.com has a blank pair of wires plus 4 most popular connectors (EC3, Deans, XT60, 4mm bullet) $6.95 compared to TaildraggeRRC has a 24" w/JST plug (gold-plated banana, Silicone main 10AWG) $15.99 http://www.buddyrc.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=epb-9411

Cheap Battery Tester / Indicator $3.10 [/B]at Banggood.com SKU071659. Face balance or charge connector so you see the metal pins in the plug. Use left most pins on tester in plugs of battery with tester facing you so you can see the readout. This only gives you a voltage, no alarm.

Cheap Battery Alarm / Indicator $5.25 at Banggood.com SKU014552. Button on top changes alarm threshold. This gives you a voltage readout and an audible alarm at whatever voltage you set for the alarm.

Bench testing servos
I've found these 2 items worth it for bench testing servos. If you are having servo problems, this will help determine if it's the servos, or something else causing problems.
Servo Tester $4.10 http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-EK...r-p-66240.html
Battery box with 3 wire standard servo connector $1.81
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 11, 2014 @ 07:33 PM | 2,629 Views
Unplug the motor. I used to remove the bottom tray by dropping it in the front and leaving it hinged at the back. I would take the tail boom braces off but I leave the 2 screws at the back of the bottom plate loose and let the bottom plate drops down hinged at the back. Now I remove all 6 screws along the bottom of the bottom tray. It's easier to let the tray dangle from the wires and swivel it 90 degrees to get it out of the way. Either way works.

Remove the 2 screws on the top of the motor. Remove the screws on the heat sink plates on the sides of the motor and loosen some screws on the side plates to pull the plates apart. The motor drops out of the bottom.

There have been instances of the motor starting up as soon as power is applied without the switch being on or being bound to the Tx. If tested outside, your V913 could fly away and possible hurt someone or property. If tested inside, it will more than likely hurt someone or damage property.

CAUTION: Make sure the rotor blades not engaged. I recommend checking the motor while plugged into the PCB but not installed. This should be done even if there was no crash or no apparent damage. This is done before installation to ensure the motor isn't faulty or the PCB damaged in any way.

Or you could remove the blades and check the motor installed. If the motor spins in the reversed direction, as commonly found in alternative motors, you will discover this early and save yourself a 2nd installation. If you choose a...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 10, 2014 @ 07:03 PM | 2,997 Views
The V912 and the V913 share some common parts. They use the same main motor, tail motor and PCB.

The old V912 PCB didn't have the on/off switch soldered on like the new V913-16 PCB does. Since first coming out, the connection on the board to the on/off switch now has a plug rather than a soldered connection. The only other difference is color of the board itself. The board materials were red on the V913 PCB and green on the V912 PCB.

Since then they have come out with the new V912 PCB with connecters on the board for the auxilliary camera, bubble blower, hoist, missle launcher, etc. It should fit on the V913 fine but unless you have a new Tx to make those things work, you won't be able to use them on your V913 - or you are an electronics engineer and can find the signals and solder the contacts necessary on the PCB. But there's no reason not to use the new V912 PCB if you might someday get the new V912 Tx (w/auxillary functions) to control your V913.

SIDE NOTE: The Txs for the V9x9 series of WL Toys quadcopters, and the V929 & V939 airplanes are also compatible with the new V912/3 PCBs since they all use the same FlySky protocol.

MOTORS: As far as the stock motors, there are minor differences. The motors themselves are the same sans the pinion gear.

MAIN MOTORS: Quoted from FlyingTape's post 4663. "The V912 gearing ratio is 10:1, with a 9 tooth motor pinion and a 90 tooth main gear.

The V913 gearing ratio is 71:5 ("14.2:1"), with a
...Continue Reading