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FPVsummituk's blog
Posted by FPVsummituk | Feb 04, 2014 @ 10:54 AM | 2,699 Views
I decided to add a set of headlamps, so I found some on the Hobbyking site, they are twin LEDs, each lamp is made up from 12 high power LEDs, so with 4 lamps you end up with 48 LEDs, and boy are they bright.
They are quite deep, about 12mm, so they do stand forward a long way when surface mounted. So I decided to revamp the look of the whole front panel. The size of the LED sets determined the size of the headlamp surrounds and the size of the new radiator grille. I fabricated everything from 1.5mm ABS sheet and Perspex, and bought the aluminium grille mesh from eBay.
The lights are running from a seperate 6v battery and the attached photos show the light throw. The distance from the truck to the door is about 30 feet, and is the only illumination in the photo, so you can see that it should be fine for night driving, and I always have the Summit lights and the roof bar lights to turn on should I need any aditional light.
Posted by FPVsummituk | Jan 26, 2014 @ 12:23 PM | 2,239 Views
I decided to make the RockApe more friendly. So I have adapted the actionman's arm so that he can wave to people. I bought a Turnigy TGY-778MG Alloy Case Digital Slim Wing Servo from Hobbyking. It is a very impressive little servo, I cut off the fixing lugs, removed the actionman's arm and cut a slot in his side to accept the servo. I held it in place with polymorph plastic, attached the servo horn to the arm and screwed it down to the servo. I added the servo lead to the siren via a Y harness, so now when I sound the siren the actionman waves to people.
Here are a few photos of the build.
Posted by FPVsummituk | Jan 18, 2014 @ 05:45 AM | 2,486 Views
I don't know if you remember, but when I first tested the RMRC 1.3ghz VTx and Vrx, I mentioned that I was getting a very slight video interference in the form of five fine blurry horizontal lines. At the time I put this down to either the RV camera or the pololu relay. But reading comments on the pololu site, it seems that it canbe affected by the pulses from the esc BEC lead, they advised adding a ferrite ring to the lead.
So looking on eBay I found this :-
Clip On Soft Ferrite Ring - ESC UBEC SERVO FPV RC 2.4G 5.8G TX FATSHARK UK
The great thing about it is that you don't have to disturb anything, it just clips around the lead as it leaves the esc, and best of all, the problem is totally solved, no more interference what so ever, and all for the grand sum of 2.44.
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Posted by FPVsummituk | Dec 11, 2013 @ 11:10 AM | 3,356 Views
I have decided to build a long range, twin dipole antenna mount for my new EZUHF diversity Rx.
My criteria is that:-
I want the antenna to stand 600mm above the Tonka roof.
I want to be able to remove it, when required, so that I can just use the stock 150mm antenna.
I want them to be separated at the top by about 300mm.
I want it to be spring loaded so that it won't get caught up on overhead branches etc.
I need it to be able to fold flat for transportation in the trunk of my car.
It needs to be strong enough to hold the antenna weight in use without being either too stiff or too floppy.
I could only use plastic for support, as carbon fibre or metal, being conductive, would interfere with the signal.
So with all that in mind I started to design my mount. I purchased some 2mm dia. plastic rod, a length of rubber tubing, some metal springs, a reel of spiral cable wrap and 2 plastic spring ended cable guides. I then ordered 2 x 24" SMA dipole antenna from RMRC. So, after adding a rubber grommet, 2 x steel bolts, washers, wing nuts and a sheet of plastic I was ready to begin.
The first thing that I did was make the base unit top, I angled each side to give the required separation required at the top of the supports.
Into each I added the plastic spring units.
The base was then designed to hold the bolts which would hold the whole assembly to the Tonka roof and at the same time retain the plastic rod via the rubber tubing.
With the rubber tube holding the...Continue Reading
Posted by FPVsummituk | Nov 20, 2013 @ 03:11 PM | 2,565 Views
As Nas (MyBee) said the other day, we have been working on a non-Arduino triggered rear view camera. I loved his RV camera, but said that I didn't want to get into programming, then he said that he thought that it could be done without the Arduino, and that was the time that he got me hooked. So several days of discussions, and Nas carrying out tests on MyBee, we decided on using the pololu relay switch to switch between cameras.
I ordered the camera and switch which arrived today, so with Nas's help I began the build, which turned out to be very simple.
Everything is wired up, the GoPro is now running through the pololu switch, and the camera is in location.
So I plugged it in and guess what, Nothing, just the GoPro, but no switching to the RV camera.
However, I attached it to a switch channel, and success, it switched from front to rear, no problem. So discussing it with Nas we agreed it was something to do with the throttle setting, or at least, how the Pololu switch reads the throttle input. Nas suggested that I should try to reconfigure the threshold values, using the supplied learning mode jumper.
This needs to be done for both forward and reverse throttle, after a couple of goes, I found that the best setting was zero to the wheels just about to turn, the Pololu switch then sets it mid way between the two, which means that, on the ground, the throttle movement just takes up the slack in the transmission, and the truck doesn't move. I also found that by just a...Continue Reading
Posted by FPVsummituk | Nov 20, 2013 @ 02:57 PM | 2,184 Views
I used Calidave's body mount method, which uses the existing Summit body mount attached to the body so that it will just slide into the chassis and body clips applied below the chassis mount hold the body in place.
However, using this method the body can slide down unless there is something between the body and chassis to support the weight.
For this I have taken several rubber sealing grommets, cut a cross into the middle of the grommet, and push several one on top of the other over each body mount. You can add or subtract the grommets to get the right height and stance of the Tonka body on the chassis.
Not only does this method support the weight of the body, but it also acts as additional damping to eliminate vibration from the chassis over rough terrain, and the shape of the grommets make it look like a convoluted gaiter.
You can see how it looks in the attached photo.
Posted by FPVsummituk | Nov 20, 2013 @ 02:20 PM | 2,145 Views
I made a set of instrument dials that will fit the dial size of the Tonka IP.
They are saved as a JPEG and if printed off, full size, onto photo quality paper, will be fit behind the IP.
First I drilled each instrument dial leaving just the Tonka dial bezels.
Next I took a piece of clear acetate and cut it to fit on the back of the IP, around the steering wheel servo.
The photo image of the dials were individually cut oversize giving a couple of mm all round each dial.
With the acetate in place each decal was placed behind the dash and lined up with the holes in the dash and taped into place.
Once everything is lined up and taped, I then covered the whole area with duck tape, just to make sure that there would be no chance of moisture getting at the photo paper.

Click here to download a high resolution image.

This is how the IP will look once they have been applied.