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North_of_49's blog
Posted by North_of_49 | Oct 08, 2014 @ 09:48 PM | 1,686 Views
Sport Cub S BNF with SAFE® Technology (HBZ4480)
http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/...nology-hbz4480

First mod, Bushwheels.

2" scale equivalent to 35" Alaskan Bushwheels, the largest made for a Cub.
(I also have 1-3/4")
Posted by North_of_49 | Oct 08, 2014 @ 09:44 PM | 1,377 Views
reserved
Posted by North_of_49 | Feb 25, 2014 @ 08:18 AM | 5,163 Views
... continued discussion on switching the sequenced strobe from the discussion on this page...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post27615191

The last thing posted about it...
Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
If you're saying it requires 2 mixes, then I think I have it (at least I was able to do what you said if I used 2 mixes).

mix1 STR >AX1 G (active in Switch G position 2... position 2 is the only block blacked out)

mix2 ON >AX1 G (active in Switch G position 1... position 1 is the only block blacked out)

Switch G position 0 is "off"

The one thing I need to fix though is getting the proper "throws" of the AUX1 channel position markers in the main monitor screen. I can only get it to go to the middle as the farthest throw (so far... still playing with it) EDIT, actually, a little farther than the middle if I set the rates to 125%. I guess all I need is it to go far enough for the LED to consider it as "ON" ... I'll have to hook up my LED.
Have an LED hooked up. Yeah, it works

Still trying to make those servo position markers in the monitor screen look pretty As long as it gets thrown past the center it's considered ON. I boosted the throw as far as I could using Travel in servo setup. Would be nice to balance the look of it and have it go from say 1/4 to 3/4 on the position marker for On to OFF (or OFF to ON depending how the channel is set up... I had to reverse it).

Thanks freechip

So I now have

LED OFF
LED On solid
LED strobed

using a 3 position switch

Posted by North_of_49 | Feb 23, 2014 @ 03:08 PM | 3,958 Views
I was asked to do a blog post about this...

click image to watch at YouTube




I won't go too in depth into the basics of using and setting up the DX9 sequencer; There are some good sources for that already. I highly recommend checking them out first before continuing with my post if you really want to understand what I'm about to write here if you don't already.

There's a great introduction to sequencing in the March 2013 issue of Flying Models magazine...
http://carstensbookstore.com/march20132.html

Apparently you can purchase a download of a single issue from within the free Carstens app...
http://carstensbookstore.com/freecarstens.html

I understand that, at the time of this writing, this is the only way to buy a single issue and in electronic format, and that it is currently only available for iOS (Apple) devices. There is some discussion about this here...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=13235

Alternately, you can find pretty much the same information on RCG member freechip's blog and YouTube channel...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=223476

http://www.youtube.com/user/freemarl...ow=grid&view=0


Setting up the sequencer to strobe an LED
I was able to figure this out with help from RCG members freechip and Andy Kunz (Andy posted a sample strobing sequencer file in the DX9 thread for me to analize and play with... mine is a modification of his). Big thanks to both of you!

This is what I wanted to do. A...Continue Reading
Posted by North_of_49 | Jan 25, 2014 @ 03:21 AM | 4,477 Views
I did some floats theory research and crunched the numbers on various commercially available EPO float sets and found that the Flyzone DHC-2 Beaver float set would be perfect scale for my HobbyZone Glasair.

I made my own scale float brackets using K&S streamline aluminum tubing from my LHS. I put CF tubing in the rear brackets so I could slide them onto the music wire from the stock rear landing gear that I modified to use for the rear brackets mounting system. The front brackets are simply screw mounted to two small plywood blocks I Gorilla Glued into the fuselage bottom just behind the firewall to mimic the scale mounting location. I'm still working on the cross braces which stabilize the entire geometry of the system.

I did buy the separate Flyzone bracket system for the floats just to get the aluminum spreader bars that fit the holes on the inner side of the floats... looking at the package, I realized I could also use the "L" pieces from the ends of the bracket tubings in my own aluminum pieces for mounting to the floats.

I called Montana Float Company, makers of full scale floats for the full scale Sportsman and they generously gave me all the specs I asked for as far as spread of the floats center to center, length of the front and rear brackets and distance from top of floats to belly of fuselage. When I scaled everything down and mocked up my float set, it was all bang on

I'm also giving the Glasair some color using mostly Topflite Cub Yellow Trim sheet and some acrylic latex paint I had Lowes make up for me in sample size from color matching a piece of the trim sheet.
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more to come as I progress...
Posted by North_of_49 | Jan 24, 2014 @ 11:55 AM | 4,849 Views
Dual Receiver Bind (regular flaps using internally mounted single servo and dual torque rods)

I added a Spektrum AR6115e 6ch receiver and did a dual bind with the stock receiver so I could operate the flaps I added from the AR6115e's channel 6. The Glasair's stock receiver is a 5 channel and does have a Gear port you can plug flaps into, but this open 5th channel is also programmed internally to turn the Virtual Instructor features like bank limiting and active mixing on and off via channel 5 using a switch on a transmitter. There's no way then to have flaps switching completely independent from VI (Virtual Instructor) switching... you either have to disable the VI switching in a programmable radio using a mix, or settle for VI being turned on and off along with the flaps. (EDIT: I might have a way around this using my DX9)

I wanted to keep the stock receiver in there for the gyros and VI features, but wanted VI and flaps operation completely independent of each other. Binding a 2nd receiver with a 6th channel and using that channel solely for connecting and operating the flaps servo(s) is how I accomplished this. Both receivers are bound to my DX9 in 22ms DSMX mode.

When I flick the VI on ("instructor has control" voice prompt in the video) you can see the bank limiting of the VI working when I continuously hold the aileron stick to the right but the aileron immediately snaps back to almost neutral. And you can see this is completely independent of flaps...Continue Reading
Posted by North_of_49 | Feb 16, 2013 @ 04:36 PM | 6,410 Views
Belated posting of completed Champ before I nosed it in and broke the fuse.

- scale landing gear
- scale windshield
- wing struts
- tail brace wires
- 2 different size bushwheels
- LED nav and strobe light system (scratch built strobe circuit built on a 7556 timer chip)...Continue Reading
Posted by North_of_49 | Dec 22, 2012 @ 09:54 PM | 7,051 Views
As many Canadians have found out, USPS will no longer ship lipo batteries internationally. This means no longer being able to buy Gens Ace lipos, a favorite brand for many, especially among surface RC owners, or any other lipos from hobbypartz or any other seller out of the U.S. Even if we could convince such U.S. based sellers to ship via courier, the brokerage fees we'd get raped with make it not even worth it (unless you want the battery really bad and are willing to do whatever it takes to acquire it).

I came across some forum posts of people buying genuine Gens Ace products directly out of China from SDSHobby (Cylcone Toy) and decided to give them a try. Prices are not as great as hobbypartz but still good for quality lipos. Experience was good so far, haven't charged or tested the batteries yet (will update when I do).

These are the new "overseas" green/black label Gens Ace. Orange/black label is for U.S. market (hobbypartz.com) North America market.

http://www.sdshobby.com/index.php?ma...3&keyword=gens

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Posted by North_of_49 | Nov 13, 2012 @ 02:13 PM | 7,630 Views
Bought this recently for my nieces to use so I have someone to run my Losi Short Course Buggy with

Added headlights and tail lights/brake lights with DIY lenses. Will soon be getting a brushless system, bed roll cage and an alternate Raptor body probably painted and stickered "girly" for the girls. Am currently trying various tires on it for winter use... Proline Badlands, Trenchers, Slingshots, Mohawks etc. on Proline beadlock wheels for easy tire swap-outs.


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Posted by North_of_49 | Nov 13, 2012 @ 01:57 PM | 6,651 Views
Never did get around to adding this here to my blog...

adding the LEDs back to the mCX2 after doing the Carbon Fiber Tail Boom "upgrade"...

I'm taking the lazy way out on this one and just putting links to stuff I already wrote up about it in the forum, hopefully in chronological order...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=174
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=176
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=180
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=186
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=187
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=197




...Continue Reading
Posted by North_of_49 | Aug 18, 2012 @ 12:27 PM | 9,275 Views
you'll have to click the comments link to enter the thread to see the pics... or click this......http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1714411


Will add to this as I progress.

Same method I used on my Champ Bushwheels...

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(this is for just one wheel)

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Tried to find black high density closed cell rigid foam like the blue but in black. And find a black bottle cap. Neither the scrap piece of blue foam I tried or the red Coke bottle cap took black RIT dye very well.

Final proof of concept shaping the blue foam (the two discs eventually get glued together to get the width I want). These 4" tires on about 1-1/8" bottle caps are true to scale on the HZ Super Cub to the real 35" tires on 10" rims Alaskan Bushwheel makes... it's their largest product.

... next step is doing it all in black

...Continue Reading
Posted by North_of_49 | Jul 02, 2012 @ 03:49 AM | 7,988 Views
... for a scale look and hopefully less cracks / creases in my tail feathers It also sucked my horizontal stabilizers up level and flat again, they were starting to sag (curve down toward the tips)... not sure why

.020" carbon fibre rod and foam safe thick CA attached in the true scale locations. I made tiny little pads at the 8 attachment points first with thick CA applied with a toothpick.These brace wires don't even register on my scale which has a 0.1 gram accuracy

The top ones are just shy of 69mm... bottom ones are 75mm

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Posted by North_of_49 | Jun 30, 2012 @ 08:55 PM | 7,348 Views
scale landing gear, description and lots of pics coming soon...

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...Continue Reading
Posted by North_of_49 | Jun 23, 2012 @ 05:25 PM | 7,498 Views
Posted by North_of_49 | Jun 02, 2012 @ 12:19 PM | 8,318 Views
... with my first mod, bush / tundra tires... foam tires from Parkzone PKZ4406 T-28 Main Landing Gear. I bored out the center hole a bit bigger and slid them over the existing stock tires...

http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...rod_id=PKZ4406

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Posted by North_of_49 | Jun 02, 2012 @ 12:11 PM | 9,215 Views
My first surface RC

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Posted by North_of_49 | Mar 23, 2012 @ 12:22 AM | 8,951 Views
I had to replace a sticking servo in my mCX S300 today. I don't have a precision tip for my soldering iron (EDIT: I have one now, yay!) so I didn't want to work on the board directly with my iron and shaky hands.

Solution: just snip the old servo's wires leaving the soldered ends still on the board, and solder the cut ends to the new servo's wires... easy as pie. Done

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Posted by North_of_49 | Mar 19, 2012 @ 11:35 PM | 7,735 Views
Picked up a used mCX S300 locally today...

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Posted by North_of_49 | Mar 05, 2012 @ 11:12 PM | 7,809 Views
... with a color change and a few mods

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Posted by North_of_49 | Mar 01, 2012 @ 11:31 AM | 8,162 Views
What is causing this?

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