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Posted by spastic | Jul 19, 2014 @ 10:12 AM | 820 Views
Experimenting with a bunch of aero gadgets, might be too much? I ll have more pics as I go

Just have the pants to do left, tell me what you think, I want your input!...Continue Reading
Posted by spastic | Jul 17, 2014 @ 03:10 PM | 1,176 Views
this is a work in progress, right now it's a 4cell 2200mAh rock ship with a G15 (3715) 1000kv motor 12x6E (or on 3cells 2800mAh 13x8E) and mini servos like hs-85 size, right now i'm using TGY-390V HV servos

im making some changes;
1) lighter and use smaller servos (like 12g HS-65mg or similar) it really doenst need to be a 4cell setup, on 3cells (2200-2800mAh) it will be really good if made lighter

2) slightly less taper and slightly less aileron, right now its just slightly harry to fly it doesn't tip stall or snap without you wanting it to, but you really have to be a good 3D pilot to keep on top of it.. great pilots might like it the way it is but i think most will want it more tame.

3) a hair shorter in the fuse, i think shorter and less taper will make flat spins better, right now it wont do a flat spin

4) servos in the tail and battery will just get strapped to the fuse like the 35" sabre and cap on valuehobby.com (also my designs ) this way the battery can balance for KE better and setup will be easier and people don't like pushrod guides

it will get one of the schemes like on the previous blog post

it is wild to fly, it will tumble like a full-fuse plane even doing pop tops fairly well (most profiles can't do them) KE spins are really nice and tight, KE has some coupling which drives me crazy (roll out), i think its only because the battery is slightly below the center line.

anyway here are the pics, i cut everything myself with a #11...Continue Reading
Posted by spastic | Jul 13, 2014 @ 10:33 PM | 1,448 Views
Schemes can make or break a model (for sales) and i stress over the scheme as much as any other aspect of the design, here are some schemes i'm working on for the G-202 EPP foamy....Continue Reading
Posted by spastic | Jul 09, 2014 @ 04:58 PM | 1,640 Views
Here is a build i did just to see if i could get it to fly well, the factory crashed theirs after 10 seconds.. i didn't have any issues with how it flew!

I think what did them in was the draggy push-rods that are included, i replaced them with goldenrod, nice and smooth now, ill add notes later just getting the pics on here.

-70" span 3 part wing

-fiberglass fuse

-nice ply equipment tray in the fuse

-balsa and ply tail and wing, covered in Genuine Neucover iron on film

-aluminum wing joiner tubes

-CF stab joiner tube (glued in however)

-ailerons and flaps used MG mini servos (emax ES3104)
rudder and elevator used some standard size servos i had around

-fasst 8ch rx

-twin hobbywing 80A esc's (i used 80's because there is no airflow for the esc's)

-twin G-force 25 motors 1100kv, (they fit the nassels better than the G32 size motor would)

-spinning 11x5.5E props (counter rotation)

-4cell 4000mAh could use more for nose...Continue Reading
Posted by spastic | Jul 06, 2014 @ 02:54 PM | 1,490 Views
I finally got one of these new 8mm EPP kits and thought it would make a good start to my blog, this is the latest EPP Laser kit from Valuehobby.com, featuring g10 hardware, real Carbon Fiber (CF) spar, CF push-rods, CF gear legs, lightweight Printed graphics and unique epp zigzag fuse bracing (all for about $25)
The foam is called 30x EPP in China, that means its 30 times expanded, it works out to about 2lbs per sq foot. the kits are CNC hotknife cut.

here is what you will need;
-2204 to a 2206 size (about 29g) outrunner (X mountable) brushless motor, 1500kv recommended for 3cells 1900kv for 2cells lipo

-three, 9g servos, the cheapest ubiquitous 9g towerpro nylon gear servo believe it or not is more than enough torque fast and reliable for $3! each

- 10 to 12A esc i've used both the 10 and 12 amp HobbyWing "FunFly" esc's with much success.

-lipo, depending on the motor 3cell to keep it light, a 370mAh would be ideal, for 2cells 500mAh is good.

-GLUE, i highly recommend NOT using CA (foam safe or regular) on these type of kits, they make a brittle joint and the fumes and kicker smear the graphics! Instead use a glue that does not get brittle such as Foam Tack, Welders or my favorite Quick Grip (QG). normal type thin CA is needed to lock the control linkages in place.

Note on using QG, you can do the thing where you "make a bead then push together the parts then separate them and wait 30sec then stick them back together", but i find...Continue Reading