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Nethole's blog
Posted by Nethole | Jun 20, 2013 @ 07:14 AM | 1,887 Views
I keep hearing this sound of pipes chiming in the background whenever Baltar's assistant walks by
Posted by Nethole | Aug 28, 2007 @ 04:50 PM | 6,489 Views
About 3-4 months ago, I was flying my trusty 'glassed-raptor' at Green Hill when someone flying some 3-D-ish plane pulled a loop and then landed right on my model, chopping the battery line and plunging the raptor into the earth. While this plane has made several 45 degree plus declined 'earth-induced' landings, this one was the last for my raptor.

The raptor was just too heavy to be 'fun' any more.

So, I needed another pusher jet that would be reliable and fun. I decided on the F-15, and I was going to build it with rudders. Since I wanted to abuse it, I also glassed it.

I painted it with a desert camo scheme and used the decals that were available from 6mmflyrc. It was a major pain to get the decals printed, because the person who did them digitally signed them. This meant that no adobe photoshop below version 7.0 would read them (there's nothing special in the drawings to warrant it, other signature nonsense). It also meant that you couldn't modify the decals, since the 'do not modify' option was selected when it was signed. It also meant that the brain dead kinkos employees would refuse to print them because they saw the digitally signed message and then stopped and wouldn't go any further. I asked the person who made the decals to make a version that was not signed, he refused and also suggested I get rid of my adobe version 5.0 claiming it was too old. Bah, just too old to deal with worthless Digital Rights Management (DRM). Anyway, a little...Continue Reading
Posted by Nethole | Aug 20, 2007 @ 07:51 AM | 6,738 Views
Christmas time, I picked up a 6mmflyrc.com F-18 pusher jet kit. It was going to be my 'winter build'. It was also going to be my first jet with a rudder. Unfortunately, the instructions don't describe in enough detail (for me), how to do the rudder. Rather, I really didn't know how to get the hookups from the control horns to the rudder given the 1 inch z bend that's needed. So I ended up with a sealed up plane that has a rudder server and control rods, but I've disconnected them from the actual rudder controls because the slop is too much to be safe. I've forced the rudder hinges to be fixed.

I purchased a customcdr hot wind for the power plant and tried a 7x35 (GWS) prop. The stock 'hot wind' is completely insufficient to power this jet. I even swapped to a 7x5 APC prop. Still insufficient. It was a 'slow flier' in the 'slow stick' sense of the word. I replaced the motor with a customcdr single with 10Turns, put on a 6x4 prop, and now it behaves like a nice park jet.


I put on the 'missile rails', even though they don't serve any 'flight characteristic' purpose. They just look cooler. They do, though, snag on the ground and rip off every now and then when you come in for a landing and tip stall at the last minute.


I wasn't paying attention when I put on the tail and stabilizers. If you look in the picture, You'll notice that I swapped the two. I get even more bozo points, because one of them was pre-cut for the elevator control rod,...Continue Reading
Posted by Nethole | Jul 17, 2007 @ 06:16 AM | 6,959 Views
The replacement lipos arrived August 1st

---Here are the contents of my exchange with united hobbies in my attempt to get them to replace my lipos that puffed. These lipos had 7A and 7B date codes and are known to be from defective batches of lipos that tend to puff.


---



AZI-351 photos of puffed lipos

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Jul 16, 2007 22:12:43Amichanged Status to: Awaiting Reply
Amihotos of puffed lipos
Jul 16, 2007 (2 mins ago) [Not answered] [Not delivered yet !]
From: Support <support@unitedhobbiessupport.com>
To: <redacted
Created: Jul 16, 2007 22:12:43
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Hello Jame:

Sorry but I couldn't see your pictures before.

Now I can see that you have sent us the bottom part of the batteries, and i can see is slightly swollen.

Please let us know what order number that were brought from so we can arrang replacement for you.



Best regards.
Ami
Customer Support
unitedhobbies.com

[Click to see details]
Jul 14, 2007 19:10:06Serverchanged Status to: Customer Reply
<redacted>lhotos of puffed lipos
Jul 14, 2007 (2 days ago) [Not answered] [Not delivered yet !]
From: <redacted>
To: Support <support@unitedhobbiessupport.com>
Created: Jul 14, 2007 19:10:06
...Continue Reading
Posted by Nethole | Jul 06, 2007 @ 08:42 AM | 6,824 Views
I found these plans, and doubled up on the wings, so I could create a nice airfoil (3/4 foam spar at the root, 1/4 inch foam spar ending at about 3 inches from the tips of the wings).
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=25

Of course, Dow Bluecore foam, gorilla glue (the old version), and offshore servos, and ESC.

I was using a lightflight RC corona receiver, but ran into issues (D6C6 model), Turns out the offshore servos I bought didn't care for the out of spec signal on channel 1. (Hitec S55s worked, so did some 'bluefeather' servos that Dave from lightflight suggested).

The motor was a left over ELE A20-20L clone. 8x6 prop. mounted onto a 'firewall on the tail'.

You'll notice from the pictures the Home Depot paint stick on the under belly rubber banded on. I ran into CG issues, and needed to move the CG about 2 inches forward from the place where I could get it even if I showed the battery as far forward as possible.

The paint stick also provides a good skid pad for landing.

This model does exhibit a tendency to get itself into a High AOA stall at low speeds. There's no way to push out of it with this motor. I just have to make certain that I don't pitch up on take off. [with the CG issues I originally encountered, this was a bit of a problem]

I didn't put on engine pods on the wings, as they'd only rip off every landing.

I fly with the rudder slaved to the ailerons, since their's no dihedral to speak off and the wing span is long enough to cause adverse yaw with the use of ailerons alone.


Painted with Walmart Applebarrel acrlic paint.

I did not extend the 3 motor leads, instead I'm using about 20 inches of cable to extend the battery lead. This may not be healthy for the ESC, however, it was a discount one purchased from bidproduct.com (same as the servos).

The underside of the wing is reinforced with 1/4 (maybe less) balsa wood. It was to provide some fixity for the wing to the fuselage and to provide some integrity to the wing under load.
Posted by Nethole | Apr 07, 2007 @ 07:20 PM | 7,391 Views
I had been flying foamie 'park jets' for about 2 years, but I had never made any of the GWS warbirds. It was time I did so. While I've been a Fan-Fold-Foam junkie for a while, I'm just reusing technics I've seen before. Almost every time I buy a new kit, I learn technics I hadn't thought of before. When I bought the Easy Star, I learned the value of keeping the servo control leads 'short' and stiff. I was hoping to learn something new with the GWS Corsair.

By this time, I was 100% lipo, 100% brushless motors. I've also moved on from the 'cheap offshore motors'. Rather, I've found their limitations (high resistance), and found the 'extra $20' spent on an efficient motor to be worth it, in terms of performance (give than you have $200 of other equipment in the bird already. Be honest, you may tell you wife the plane cost $30, but you put $200 of equipment in it . . .)


Allerc.com, as well as some other vendors, were having sales on the NPS (formerly, slope glider, now 'no-power-system) kits for about $30 you can pick up a bird. Lets just say I picked up enough to get free shipping from allerc.com. Half because I'm obsessive, half because, I'm guessing the corsair will be killed some day and will need a replacement.

Since I was a 'scratch built' junkie, I knew the cost of all the equipment necessary to build a foamie (hinges, control horns, etc . . .). When you buy a GWS kit, most of those things are included, so you really don't have to buy...Continue Reading
Posted by Nethole | Apr 03, 2007 @ 06:27 PM | 8,544 Views
Many months ago, ELE was having a special *cough*. Free motor if you paid for shipping. I picked up the 2100 kv motor, meant to have 5 inch prop on 3S. It was limited in the amp draw, so I asked the question 'what plane is this motor good for'. Someone responded 'how about this', a 32 inch bluecore flying wing.

Standard Zagi profile, inch and a half full length control surfaces, wing tips, flat bottomed and cambered (blue core folded over a 1/2 - 3/4 inch strip of blue core).

I added bamboo sticks to give it some bending support, carved out holes for the two servos, and added the radio and velcro for batter pretty much hanging off the nose to get the CG right.

I used a left over Phoenix CC 10 as the controller.

It flew, park flyer like, then on the 5th or so flight, the main bearing on the ELE motor gave way.


Around that time, I was really into the flightflightrc, ARC series of motors. The ARC-130 is a very efficient motor to be used in a gearbox. I didn't want to add the extra weight of a gearbox on this thing, so I went instead with the ARC-110 (3100 kv), direct drive, with 4.2x4 prop.

It'll fly on 2S without any problems, and behave very 'park flier like'. On 3S, it starts to haul. Granted, on 3S, I'm really pushing my CC10 way beyond it's limits, and it clips the amp draw to about 12-13 amps.

I added some monokote to the bottom of the wing to help me get orientation in the air, I also added bamboo support infront of the motor, because...Continue Reading
Posted by Nethole | Mar 03, 2007 @ 09:19 PM | 7,706 Views
After many AP planes, I was looking for something that could carry alot of weight (Canon A620), could float/hang in the air (rules out flying wings), and was a pusher (I'm tired of buying new prop mounts every flight because it noses in).

I was also looking for something I could actually fit in my car. Ordinarily, this isn't a problem, but the Canon A620 is a heavy beast. I saw the thread on the depron dragon, so I decided to make one for myself.

Originally, the wing was going to be three sections, 12 inch chord, 24 inches long. It would be cambered and have a concave shape. Specifically, I'm looking for an airfoil to provide the ability to 'hang' in the air when I turn the motor off to take clear shots.

I built each wing piece with a 24 inch long, 12 + 4 inch (so 16 inch) piece of foam. I folded over the extra 4 inches after scoring the inner side, so I could get a little bow in it. The current method has a 1/4 inch carbon tube at the quarter chord for strength on the middle section. The foam is then covered in solalite. Once shrunk, it helps provide the additional 'camber' to the shape.

My first attempt connected the outer sections of wing to the inner ones with a piece of brass tubing. Initially it would be a straight wing, I was assuming that the lift would 'lift' the tips and provide the effective dihedral. Nope, Complete inability right itself from banking.

The second had 'bent' brass tubing. It provided the dihedral, but when a strong gust...Continue Reading
Posted by Nethole | Feb 25, 2007 @ 02:35 PM | 7,457 Views
It's just 21 oz TOW of pure love.

It started out as an excuse to build a foamy wing. Well, meant to be a nearly indestructable wing. foam, carbon rod, and covered in 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth and polycrylic.

Then it occured to me, that this wing would work very well as basis for an A-10 model. So I slapped together a box that sorta looks like the dimentions of an A-10, slapped on a tail. Not shown in the picture, there are also engine pods.

I was getting all excited about doing an A-10 (pusher), then realized I'd have issues with the elevators, AND getting the CG right would mean having the battery hanging off the nose in front. [based on glide tests in the front yard].

So, tractor it was instead, then once I put the motor on and prop, I didn't bother with the engine pods, because it started to remind me of a WW II plane more than an A-10.

First motor wasn't strong enough to maintain flight (as I said, it's pretty porky, 21 onces TOW with battery - 1600 mah budget lipo). So dumped that motor, and moved to a BP12 with 8x6 prop. [classic park flyer set up].
Just under 10 amps.

Servos glue on the wings, using my left over GWS 4 channel receiver (my first one, long ago).

Then came a trip to walmart for more Krylon Fusion, and low and behold, they had florescent orange (warning cone orange). PERFECT!


Actuallly, it's a lot more 'fun' with a 1530 kv BP motor with 8x4 prop. Though it is amp hungry. I tried with a 7x35,but it wasn't enough to keep it in the air. The 8x4 and it flies quick!

---
Yes, this is largely a copy-paste repost of a thread I started in the past, but that thread contained all the useful nuggets in one place. Since I'm keeping a blog entry for each one of the planes I've made, I had to add this one.

Original Thread

Video of Flight
Posted by Nethole | Feb 17, 2007 @ 09:54 AM | 8,044 Views
For a long time, I wanted an A-10, just because they look cool. I caught the thread about turning a A-10 into a pusher jet. I tried to absorb the important features before building and flying mine:


1) glass it, (the A-10 breaks when you look at it odd)
2) Get the thrust line set to prevent downward pitching at low speed (so it doesn't nose in on take off)
3) Separate servos for ailerons, and make them snag free (smooth is important)
4) Reinforce the wing with carbon along most of the length (this will save you when you carwheel in from a tip stall landing, notice I didn't say 'if', I said when)
5) GET THE CG FORWARD ENOUGH (if you don't, it will crash, no questions)


The pictures below are from my second one. Rather, they're from my second A-10 that I'm in the process of resurrecting.

I took the time when I built the second one to paint it (apple barrel, windex, airbrush), before building, and before glassing. Painting anything camo colors is just asking for problems finding it when it goes down in the woods, so I also added yellow/orange tips to the tails.

The first A-10, I was still using 'budget' lipos, with a motor I had put together from left over pieces from long ago. It's a himax 2015-4100, wedged into a GWS gearbox, with a 4.33:1 ratio, running a 9x7 gws prop. I was using Common Sense 2100 8C lipos. Supposely rated for 16 amps. I had better luck maintaining voltage under draw from the 1650 8C lipos from them than I did with the 2100s....Continue Reading
Posted by Nethole | Feb 10, 2007 @ 11:04 AM | 7,824 Views
Several years ago, I asked my wife to buy me a MagPie AP for a birthday gift. I got it, but between the time I asked for it and my birthday, my interests waned in Aerial Photography. The kit sat untouched for almost a year.

Last year, I finally put it together. Powered with a Himax 2816-1260. I had ordered a Himax 2812-1080, but the shop was out of them, and sent me the Higher KV motor in its place. With APE 8x4 thin electric props, the magpie (unloaded), can fly around quite reasonably in the air, like a bigger fatter brother to the slow stick. When it is loaded, it still has enough power to get out of trouble.

I had asked in the AP forum magpie thread, which motor mount to use, the stick mount, or the firewall mount. And I had people standing by the stick mount, saying there was no need to go through the hassle of the firewall mount.

First flight, upon landing, the weight of the motor managed to bend the supports that connect the outrunner to the stick mount. [so I bent them back]. This excercise repeated quite frequently. I did some searching, and found that others complained of the exact same problem with the himax 28xx series of motors. Of course you wouldn't have found it, unless you knew exactly what search terms to use. Finally, the stick mount broke when I was managed to loose the magpie in the sun for a minute and get it into a spin. I cut the throttle to bring it back flying into visible surrondings, saw there was possible 'tree'...Continue Reading
Posted by Nethole | Feb 03, 2007 @ 02:09 PM | 8,062 Views
I believe I'm on my 4th raptor now.

The first was too fragile, and very prone to tail spins.
The second went MIA, eventually reported found by railroad crews months later.
The third was glassed, indestructable, but heavy.
The forth is 'light', but elevator control horn comes loose.


My plans are from http://home.tiscali.nl/modelbouw/modellen%20nieuw.htm

They've been out for a while.

My first one was powered by an old school BP-21 with 8x4 prop. My 'tail' sections weren't on sturdy enough, they 'flapped a bit'. So if I ever managed to get it into a spin, it would just keep spinning (into the ground).

The second one had stronger tail section, it also had an aeronuts ESC, but I lost control over it several times. Likely ESC overheating combined with the berg 3 second recovery issue? The final loss of control ended up with a lost plane.

The next one I built 'solid', covering it in 3/4 oz fiberglass with minwax poly crylic. And painted it with spray paint. The polycrylic protected the foam from the paint. I've managed to plow this beast into the ground 3/4 throttle several times. the fiberglass split and foam snapped, but with gorilla glue it went back together. I've managed to get this one caught in many trees, and have 'hit it down' with rocks. The fiberglass is just great for protection. This one is heavier now, around 22 oz (alot of gorilla glue), and is largely retired. It really wasn't much fun to fly after all the weight, AND...Continue Reading
Posted by Nethole | Jan 28, 2007 @ 01:28 PM | 8,304 Views
I had asked for an aileron trainer a few Christmas's ago, and my wife's family bought one for me. At the time, I was still using KAN 1050 Nimhs. I had the speed 400 motor in it. Actually, this motor and gearbox didn't last long, because I was trying to take off from a rolling take off, and didn't have the power to do it.

Parking lots are not very forgiving for rolling take offs (nor for landings).

Initially, I replaced the broken 400 series motor with a GWS 350 and a 6.1:1 gearing and 10x6 prop. And did hand launches for take offs. This worked, rather it flew. But it didn't fly nearly fast enough to get any appreciable effect from the ailerons. Even more troublesome, the torque from 10x6 prop would tend to rotate the vehicle to the left. After battling this for some time, I swapped in a 'old style' BP-12 brushless motor (1260 kv but high resistance) with 8x6 prop from one of the aero-nuts 'import specials. It was the perfect combination for this plane. It now flew fast enough to make use of the ailerons.

About 4 months after this, I switched over completely to 3S lipos, and the e-started became the fun little trainer it was supposed to be. I tried to learn all of the flier techniques that you're supposed to practice and learn. Needless to say, there were plenty of crashes. I started to take the 'Fly 3-mistakes high' rule seriously. But in the meantime, this e-starter was getting crashed and smashed on a regular basis.

Gorilla glue is...Continue Reading
Posted by Nethole | Jan 20, 2007 @ 03:04 PM | 7,839 Views
My first venture into 'foamies', and scratch built planes was EWO's F-16 model. I believe he called it the 'super f16'. My first one used the 'leftovers' I had when I switched over to brushless on my slow stick. I put on a GWS 350 motor with a C (5.33:1 I believe) gearing an settled on a 9x7 prop. At the time, I was using KAN 1050 mah 8cells. The weight of the cells helped balance out the plane.

Actually, it took about a month of 'crashing-on-the-first-flight-of-the-day' before I finally got the C.G. figured out. I originally had too large of a prop, so there was massive torque roll. Also, my C.G. was too far back. If you notice from the pictures, the nose of my current model is the 'long nose' version of EWO's F-16.

I've long since left brushed motors behind. My last F-16, had a leftover Himax 2015-4100 in a 5.33:1 gearing with a 9x7 motor. This himax was 'jimmied' into a GWS 300 style gearbox. I'm suprised that motor setup has survived to this day. I used a Phoenix 10 controller with the battery lead extended.

This ended up being my first 'aileron/no rudder' plane. It was an entirely different way of flying, since I was used to a slow stick, and easy star.

I found the controls needed to have as little 'slop' as possible. Putting 'v' bends into the control rods helped, as well as shortening the length of the rods. Unfortunately, the further back the servos went, the further back the C.G. moved.

I moved over to lipos over a year ago (...Continue Reading
Posted by Nethole | Jan 14, 2007 @ 02:02 PM | 8,452 Views
This is my 2nd easy star. The first was lost somewhere over Virginia tech about two years ago. That plane was my second real plane. I bet someone, if they recognized it, was able to salvage the pictures from the aiptek camera on board.

This easy star was modified with the servos mounted on the tail to improve precision and increase the total throw. The rudder size was increased (glued on bluecore foam), the whole fuselage was painted yellow with a Harborfrieght airbrush (Walmart applebarrel acrylic paint, thinned with windex). Gives it a nice 'fisher price' kind of look.

The motor is a Hyperion P1913-06 (2080 kv, 1.25 Io, and Rm=0.0493). I'm currently using a 6 inch prop, though will move over to an APC 6 inch prop next chance I get.

I have some extra weight on the nose, because it's difficult to get the C.G. as forward as it needs to be. I originally thought I'd be mounting a A620, a heavy camera, but the Pentax that I'm using instead is about 4-5 ounces lighter.


Being a pusher, eliminates the problem I had with the slow stick of 'prop damage'. Mounting the camera above the nose reduces the possibilities of dinging up the camera on landing. The faster speed of the easy star, does make taking pictures a bit more difficult. (slow moving slow stick gives lots of time to set up the shot).

The easy star is much easier to transport to a site, however, it is a faster craft, so it requires much more room in order to manuver and to land.
Posted by Nethole | Jan 14, 2007 @ 01:39 PM | 7,974 Views
I've lost count, but I believe I'm on the 4th incarnation (maybe third, who knows). I believe this incarnation is over year and half old (maybe even two years old)

I've long since given up the stock wing, and switched to the Steelhead wing. My primary use for my slow stick is Aerial photography. Primary camera with the slow stick is a Nikon 3700. The camera is a little worse for wear, but still gives the best 640x480 video of anything I've seen.

This is the last plane I used the 'brown' packing tape. I've since switched to clear 'Long term storage' tape by 'Scotch'. (bought at Walmart). It's plenty strong, durable, and sticky. Plus it's not ugly like the brown stuff I used on this plane. Though, this 'brown stuff', has survived over 18 months of use without failure in flight, or from hangar-rash.

I've currently on a 'hair' side of overproping with a Himax 2015:4100 geared 6.6:1 with a APC 12x8 TE prop. I used to have a 12x6, but wasn't getting enough 'speed' during windy days. I tried the 12x8, the effect on pitch speed is marginal, I just haven't switched back yet.

The motor is now mounted higher up using one of the APcam carbon supports. The motor mount is angled to largely eliminate the downward pitching moment induced by moving the motor above the C.G. of the craft. The upward angle of the thrust helps during 5-10 mph wind days for landing. The craft can almost be landed at a standstill, while loaded with camera if flown into the wind.
...Continue Reading