Private messaging function is now disabled to the general public
Because I am being constantly swamped with private messages from newcomers that are having issues with their DH9116, it has become too much, so I have disabled my private messaging feature to everyone except forum members in my friends/contact list and moderators only.
If any new owner or new comer has a problem or issue with a DH9116, please offer your problems for open discussion with other DH9116 owners and thread members and post them in the "Double horse 9116 Heli" thread.
Make sure first that you have fully re-charged the battery, then place the heli on a flat, level surface, like a table or workbench top, and connect the battery and turn on the heli and the tx, allow then to bind and setthe throttle to zero, make sure all the stick trims on the tx are centred. This is to allow the servo's to stay at their midpoint settings, because if the heli was switched off, you can move the servo and arms and knock them out of central alignment. Unscrew the center screw from the central pivot point on the servo arm and remove it, pull the servo arm straight off (it might need prying or wriggling off), then re-align the inside grooves of the servo arm with the corresponding grooves on the servo axle, so the arm is now horizontally level with the table top (if you can't get it spot on, don't worry, it just needs to be as close as possible to 90°) and re-attach the screw. Repeat the same procedure to the opposite side servo arm.
Servo Arm to Swashplate Link Adjustments.
To adjust the servo arm links to obtain a near perfect hands free hover, start with the swashplate levelling procedure and re-set the servo arm links back to the factory lengths (but if you haven't adjusted them previously, skip that bit, as they should be set to those lengths already). That is your starting point. At this setting, the heli should take off with a bias to the rear and to the right. Once you get the heli airbourne,...Continue Reading
Posted by stormforce |
Feb 08, 2012 @ 08:05 PM | 8,681 Views
DH9116 Transmitter – Physically change from Mode 1 to Mode 2
In light of recent events (28th, June 2012) this change is now in two parts. The first part is the physical change, the second, requires some minor soldering skills.To physically change the TX sticks movements from Mode 1 to Mode 2, if you feel confident of having a go will will take about 1/2 an hour or 45 minutes work and will only require a medium "jewellers" or "hobby" type, phillips head (+) screwdriver, a soldering iron, some fine 0.7mm 60/40 resin cored solder and some “solder braid” or wick. Unfortunately, you'll have to crack open the back of the TX. Before you physically change over the sticks functions, make sure you have changed the mode in the program menu settings prior to starting.
Remove all of your batteries and remove the 6 screws in the back of the main body and two smaller screws in the handle with the medium Phillips head jeweller’s screwdriver. Gently open the back of the TX and slip out the antenna pole from the back of the body, leaving it to remain on the front of the body. If you feel inclined slip out the red and black wired battery power plug from the mainboard. Next, look inside the back of the TX and you'll see the back of the sticks, move the stick you want to make into the throttle up and down (as you'd use it as a throttle) and you'll see a small coiled spring stretch and retract, that's the spring you want to remove, it is usually held in...Continue Reading
Posted by stormforce |
Feb 01, 2012 @ 04:56 AM | 8,925 Views
DH9116 Swashplate to Servo Arm Adjustable Linkage - Original Factory Lengths
Factory lengths for both servo linkages. To increase in length, turn clockwise (left). To decrease in length, turn anti or counter-clockwise (right).
The longest linkage with the outside (O.D) points of a digital vernier caliper should be 36mm (exactly 36.61mm), and with the inside (I.D) points of a digital vernier caliper the total overall length is 42mm (exactly 41.59mm)
The shortest linkage with the outside (O.D) points of a digital vernier caliper should be 26mm (exactly 26.32mm), and with the inside (I.D) points of a digital vernier caliper the total overall length is 32mm (exactly 31.21mm).
These lengths are base line measurements only. With these lengths, the heli should hover or take off with a drift backwards and to the slightly to the right.
Proceed to the next section, to mechanically fine adjust the servo arm linkages to get a perfect hands-free hover.
DH9116 Initial Basic Swashplate Levelling Procedure & Mechanical Trimming / Adjustment of the Servo Arm Linkages
Remove the canopy and find the plugs to the tail motor and main motor on the pcb and pull them out (making note of where they go), therefore disconnecting both the motors from the heli's battery power source. Connect the battery to the heli, turn on your tx and switch on / power up the heli and allow the heli to bind or sync with the tx, the...Continue Reading
Posted by stormforce |
Feb 01, 2012 @ 04:39 AM | 8,351 Views
DH9116 Servo Move Modification
The fix for the servo arm link touching the canopy when the servo is at full throw forward, and also in my opinion, the fix for the excessive outward flexing of the servo arm.
The servo is usually removed by unplugging it from the pcb, then unscrewing the two retaining screws, and simply pulling it out, but for this mod, I needed to move the servo inside between the two metal sideplates by 5mm, so the servo screw tabs would have to be on the inside, not the outside. So I removed the servo completely from the frame, then superglued two small nuts to the inside of the tabs. I then removed enough screws from one side of the sideplate, and the main shaft and anti-rotation bar / top main sahft mounting block, to allow me to slip the servo into position between the two sides of the frame. After a quick alignment to estimate how much the servo needed to be moved, I found the width of a small section of cable/zip tie was just wide enough to slip in between the body of the servo and the sideplate, and also between the servo body and the screws. This gave me the desired adjustment I needed to keep the servo aligned and in position. I then positioned and fixed down the servo to the other servo by the use of some 2mm thick double sided foam tape, for extra support and to help any additional flexing or stress on the servo mounting screw tabs.
Posted by stormforce |
Feb 01, 2012 @ 04:36 AM | 9,868 Views
DH9116 Transmitter - Original Factory Program Menu Settings.
Terms used within the transmitter and this blog.
TX = Transmitter
ELEV = Elevator (cyclic movement forward or backward)
AILE = Aileron (cyclic movement side to side, slide left & right)
RUDD = Rudder (to increase or decrease tail rotor thrust, spin the tail left or right)
THRO = Throttle (increase or decrease motor rpm, to raise or lower the helicopter in altitude)
D/R = Dual Rate (increase or decrease servo maximum throw)
EPA = End Point Adjustment (increase or decrease to match the servo arm movements with transmitter control stick travel)
Note: All stick trims are to be centered, throttle stick is at it's lowest position; rocker switch is in the 'quick" position.
Switch the TX on; the battery voltage indicator shows full and the actual voltage value flashes and fluctuates; the red LED flashes and the buzzer beeps 14 times quickly, then changes to a higher pitch single beep, then falls silent; the red LED also stops flashing (this is the end of the transmitter bind or helicopter to transmitter signal synchronisation mode).