This video shows all the initial running of a brand new PAW, from opening the box right through to achieving first-flick starting and excellent running/throttling, etc.
And it really is a great engine.
If you think big diesels should be started using an electric starter, or whacked with a stick, have a look at this...
A reasonable shove starts this engine in less time than it takes to pick up a starter...
This doesn't have anything to do with RC, or even toy planes or engines, but it is a major part of my life...
I can't be the only person here who likes guitar music so, while I get my act together for a few engine running or plane flying videos, I thought I'd post this video of my daughter playing guitar...
Some of the RC forum gentlemen might like it...
Hopefully some people who have problems with diesels may see this video on youtube. I hate reading about guys using electric starters on diesels (especially if they think they know what they’re doing !!!), or whacking engines with a stick... Oh dear!
Long-time diesel operators will probably get a smile out of it... Good!
The video is an attempt to show the complete process of resolving a difficult engine starting situation. This super old PAW is locked solid with congealed fuel residue, and the mid-winter temperature is only 1 or 2°C.
The engine is more than 25 years old, and hadn’t been run for around 10 years, so I used it to shoot a video of « sorting out an engine that’s completely gummed up », in unfavourable conditions.
It took around 3mn 30sec to get the engine running properly (mostly just to free it up enough to be able to flick it), which I thought was reasonable in mid winter, plus another minute or two to achieve first flick starting...
Finally, I’ve put French sub-titles on the actual engine running part, so you’ll get a free language course as well!
The late Arne Hende's "replica" engines are well known, and their quality is far higher than we've been getting from Chinese and Russian sources in recent years.
In fact, many of them are "super engines"!
My own particular favorite is the 0.6cc Drone, which is a great performer.
Only 0.037 c.i. (in the usual "American" units), this tiny Drone turns a Cox TD 09 propeller very well indeed.
I intended to put it in a plane (a miniature Super Buccaneer), but I think the engine is too powerful for the kit that I have!
Have a look:
One of my early aeromodelling memories is that around 1952/3, a school friend was given one of these K Vultures. We tried all one afternoon to start it, without success. From memory, we had the engine very overcompressed and flooded, and we lost a lot of blood, either because it was so difficult to flick or because it backfired and bit our fingers...
It's so much easier now. In fact, this engine is quite easy to start. I think one of my other Vultures is probably more powerful, but I chose the last production model for the running session because it's the only one of my Vultures that I hadn't previously run. It's a nice engine, have a look:
This is a short running session with the smallest engine I possess.
You'll see that it's very easy to operate and a fully practical, usable engine. You can take it to the flying field and fly it, totally unlike most very small engines that are only really intended for collections and might run a little if you're very careful!
This K Hawk isn't much bigger than a Cox 010, but it turns a 6x3 propeller very well. It was made and on sale in 1948 and, for me, in terms of easy operation, nothing better exists at this size even today.
Here it is:
This is a very early Comp. Special, and is exactly the way it should be. ED made quite a few changes over the years, so many Comp. Specials will be a little different, but this is the first one...
Also, many (most) parts are interchangeable with the earlier Penny Slot and the side-port 2.49 models, so there are very many hybrid engines around that have been assembled from different donor engines...
The Comp. Special has always been one of my favorites. It was the engine that first made me realize, way back in the fifties, that many diesels should, and do, start with just one flick...
One slight negative comment... in the video, I'm running the engine a little too lean. After the video, I opened the fuel needle another half a turn, and the running was sweeter... OK, I learned the lesson... Videos should not be rushed. In future, I'll take more time to set up the engine...
Anyway, here it is:
The Oliver Mk II made a huge advance in the performance of 2.5 cc competition engines. The 2.5 cc class was, and still is, the premier international class for FF and CL competition, so when, in one go, it raised the existing accepted standard of around 0.25 bhp (or even a bit less), to over 0.3 bhp, it was literally in a class of its own...
It was the first 2.5 cc engine to exceed 0.3 bhp on test and was the engine that first established the Oliver as being « superior », setting the pattern for almost 10 years of Oliver domination of the premier international class. A domination that, it has to be said, was based on pure engineering quality.
I think the Mk II aero version was only made from 1952 to early ’54, so there aren’t many around today, and those that exist are mainly sitting in glass showcases...
Anyway, among those who like interesting old engines, not many will have seen an Oliver Mk II running, and I never could resist an excuse to play with a super engine... so the video is here:
I removed this PAW 19 from the Vic Smeed "Electra" airframe, to give the plane a "winter service" after a lot of flying last year.
This video shows the little running session, before putting the engine back in the plane.
I don't need max. power for flying, so I prefer to run the engine a bit "rich".
More power, and maybe even better allround performance, could probably be obtained by a little twiddling of the fuel needle...
Anyway, here it is, a super engine for "no problem" flying of model planes:
I just felt like running this old (but maybe new) DC Wildcat Mk III.
To be honest, I was a bit disappointed, I've known wilder cats than this...
Many other late forties diesels are better runners.
Maybe it's just that the engine may still be "new", i.e. not run in.
It's been in my possession for more than 40 years.
Anyway, you can judge for yourself, it's here:
This video shows a short running session with a very early Dyno, one of the world's very first diesels (1939/40 vintage).
The engine is a low serial number in the first series made, so it really is one of the first...
The main impression is that the Dynos were extremely well made, with really excellent fits and finish. Many diesels being produced in China or Russia today are not nearly up to the 1939 Dyno standard!
This engine would be a perfectly practical flyer, even today.
So if you like superb old engines (historical even), that run well, here it is:
This really is one of my favorite old engines.
1945 vintage, so it's older than any British or American diesel.
As you'll see. It starts dead easy and throttles very well, with a choke arrangement copied from the Brown Junior.
Like most of these old engines, to get the best performance, it would be better to mix up specific fuel to suit the individual engine, particularly in these winter conditions...
However, it's obviously not practical to mix up fuel for each engine, so this one is just running on normal English commercial diesel fuel (Southern Modelcraft "Sport diesel").
One final remark. Admire the throttling and slow running on this .07 diesel, and have pity on the poor guys who're using BabeBees...
Recently, in the "Old diesels" forum, doubt was expressed concerning whether the name "Speed Demon" was justified...
I've always thought the engine was an excellent performer, but it was only my impression.
So I decided to do a little running video... performance is quite impressive!
My conclusions are these:
1. The Speed Demon was produced the same year as the plain bearing Drone, i.e. it predates the ball-race Drone by one year.
2. The best performance I ever had from a ball-race Drone is 5150 rpm on a Topflite 14x6 prop., on a warm summer day.
3. This Speed Demon turns the same prop at 5400 rpm in winter, in an ambient temperature of 5°C (41°F). The Drone BB is a great engine, but I don't think it would run at all in this temperature.
4. Slightly better performance could probably be obtained from the Speed Demon by fine tuning the fuel mixture, warmer conditions, etc. I didn't even look at the recommended fuel mix.
A great engine. You can see it running here:
This French REA 10cc engine is a great performer. In my opinion, it's the only copy of the Brown Junior that was objectively better than the Brown (and by a considerable margin).
This 1944 REA turned a Topflite 14x6 propeller at 6400 rpm at my first attempt, with no effort to fine tune the fuel mix or anything like that. Have a look... A great engine...
Being a long-time diesel lover, I was looking for a really easy to use big diesel, for my winter build project.
Well... I've found it!
This PAW .60 RC TBR is a real pussy cat.
I expected such a big diesel to be perhaps a little bit vicious to handle...
But it really is a very docile and easy to handle engine. Just as easy as any smaller engine.
I'm really pleased, and it's encouraging me to get building...
From new, I ran the engine gently for about 45 minutes, in one session, and the second session is what you see here:
This is my second attempt at producing a video of running interesting old engines.
You'll see that this English Airstar is a nice runner. It was originally supplied with two tank bowls. One for control line, that lasts around 4 minutes, and this one, for free flight, that gives runs of between 60 and 90 seconds.
The engine was made in Luton, UK, in 1947, and is basically the earlier French Airplan, a very small number of which were made in 1946.
Comments welcome of course. At the moment, I'm fighting against the fact that what appears on Youtube isn't nearly as good as the original, on my hard disk... but I guess that's the same for everyone...
I've been building this Junior 60 "on & off", for nearly 20 years.
However, it's finally finished.
I've tried to keep it light, as the ultimate objective is to fly it R/E only, with an ED Comp Special.
It's intended to be a "nice weather" flier (I have the Electra for windier days).
The plane is entirely tissue covered and decorated. I'm no good at painting, so the only paint is on the landing gear legs.
As shown, ready to fly, it weighs 2 lb 10 oz, so it'll probably fly with a Comp Special OK, but I've installed a Racer for the early flights, just to be sure we have plenty of power.
I shall check the CG accurately before the maiden, but I think the plane is actually nose-heavy! A rough check "finger tips under the wing" seems to indicate a CG about 1 cm forward of the position shown on the plan.
The battery is under the engine at the moment... It's not going to be very convenient if I have to move it back...