I've noted which end of the bottom servo hatch is the end to lift off (magnet end).
A picture of one of the hinges on the tailplane plus the clevis replaced with a linkage stopper due to the push rod being too long. The alternative fix is to put in a new Z bend at the servo end. The tailplane and elevator have been slit to allow fitting of the hinge. The 4 dots are kebab stick pushed through and glued with PVA glue.
Having been asked how I now fit the wings on, attached, a picture. There are 2 strips of Velcro running under the wing, attaching to 4 pads, 2 each sided. The upper one (aft one) in the picture has the cross-the-plane Velcro peeled off (my thumb in the picture holding it).
There is another pad running between them, there for a bomb-drop attachment. The socket for that control had not ben fitted at that point. Now there are 2 sockets on each side.
To make fitting and attaching the aileron servos wires easy, there is a socket on each side, glued to the fuselage (done after the previous picture showing the Velcro). Once the wing is fitted the aileron wires are plugged in.
Posted by Mac50L |
Jan 02, 2014 @ 02:56 AM | 3,420 Views
After building and flying a J-Bug, getting "taken-out" by a Vapour one indoor flying night, it seemed that something needed to be done.
This resulted in the AOP1 (Air Observation Plane). If it had military markings it would be an Army Observation Plane. The first picture before the motor cowling (3 small bits of foam) was fitted.
While it was being built, the wings were on the bench in the low wing position. Interesting.
That meant that the next plane would be a low wing version. It was fitted with the same 10 grm motor and obviously under powered. A 19 grm motor sorted that out but control was lacking. Fitting ailerons fixed that but there was wild wing flapping under power in a dive. The cambered wing was filled in making a monocoupe constructed wing with lots of stiffness and now something that could be thrown around and stay together.
The low wing version is shown with a foam canopy from a Dart-XS sitting on it for effect and the other pictures, open where there is access to the battery. A cover goes over this hole and either a couple of windscreens and pilots or a single clear canopy with pilot. The later is made and still needs to be fitted. The first pictures don't show the ailerons which were fitted as extras and increased the wing area as seen in the last picture. This also includes the side of a plastic bottle for the canopy and a pilot. Hopefully he will make the flying a bit better.
Posted by Mac50L |
Apr 06, 2013 @ 03:57 AM | 3,869 Views
I delivered a new Dart (#3) to its owner last night and he did a quick test flight. I advised less throttle and launched it. Within 10 seconds (his words) he was hooked on it. This is someone who has been flying for over a year, Bixler, SBach 342, etc.
We had indoor flying later that evening so a quick outdoor flight by both of us to "calibrate" fingers and then inside. I'd built the first Dart just for the indoor flying nights and was flying my #2 (#2, that's another story). The indoor is just a basketball court size and I've found a UM T-28 a bit of a handful in there (poor pilot?). The Dart, off the floor with a kick on the throttle vertical for ~10 feet and then lazy circuits. Square circuits - this thing turns on a sixpence (OK a dime).
So my #2. Made a mistake measuring the wings and has an extra ~3" span and a little less chord. Flight difference? Can't see any, maybe glides further.
Modifications - the body is 15 mm longer, sticking out ahead of the front edge of the wing. This allows the battery to be fitted further back near the CoG. The body is wide enough to fit a 460 - 500 mAh, 3S battery in. The vertical walls of the fuselage bend from the front of the tailplane back and meet at a point at the back of the tailplane where the elevator meets it. The wings have a Western Red Cedar internal spar which saves fitting a kebab skewer (or CF spar) across the wing. A plywood firewall with ~60 mm long ply panels inside from it, glued to the internal...Continue Reading
A closeup of the 3M hook with the wire and rubber band retainer. The "70" is the mm distance from the wing's leading edge. There is also a "60" (out of picture). These are for CoG checking.
A link-stopper replacing a clevis. Note the wire on the horn for security. Also visible under the pushrod is another copper wire through the wing. This is one of the hinge retainers. The hinges aren't actually glued into the wing, just retained with copper wire.
Posted by Mac50L |
Jun 11, 2012 @ 02:52 AM | 4,859 Views
The airscoop and undercarriage fitted to a Bixler and a more reliable wing retainer using a wire with a rubber band to stop it unclipping. The wire runs across from hook to hook and has a reverse bend at its ends for the rubber band to hook over.
This is all replaced with Velcro on the V1.1 which replaced the V1 which ended up with more glue than foam.