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drcigg's blog
Posted by drcigg | Jan 22, 2012 @ 03:24 PM | 2,389 Views
I am starting my quad copter build of an all wood frame. More pics and details to come soon as I acquire all the parts.
All parts used in this build are listed below in quantity and price as well as links on where I bought them from. The whole process will be documented as I go along in building the quad.

RC-timer 2830-14 motors qty 4
Turnigy plush 30amp esc qty 4
T-rex 500 landing skid pipe qty 1
T-rex 500 landing skids qty 1
Low voltage alarm qty 1
4mm shrink tube red qty 1
4mm shrink tube black qty 1
3.5mm bullet connectors qty 2 (10 per pack)
XT60 connectors qty 1
Battery Strap qty 1
14mm shrink tube qty 1
16awg red wire qty 1
16awg black wire qty 1
4200mah 4s 30c life battery qty 1
blade balancer qty 1
Helping hands qty 1
12AWG Wire (Black + Red qty 1
16AWG wire Standard XT60 male to 4mm bullet qty 1
IMAX B6-AC Charger qty 1
CC board- fc qty 1

It was quite a bit of money up front, but since I have everything I need now the next one I build won't cost as much since I own everything already.

I haven't decided yet on the props. It will either be apc 10x4.7 sf or 11x3.8sf or 11x4.7sf.

Complete parts list in the order...Continue Reading
Posted by drcigg | Nov 07, 2011 @ 01:47 PM | 3,294 Views
the simplest equation is always quad but following this method will work for all multis with a minor change which i will explain

i am going to use a dt700 motor so i need to know its maximum amp draw at "WOT" with any given prop from this info i can pick an esc and from that info i can estimate what lipo i need to power it so i go on the website and look for everything i have added ** to, so....
**Required Voltage: 11.1v**
Suggested Battery Capacity: 1300mAh +
**Suggested Prop: 10x4.7, 11x3.8 or 11x4.7**
**Max current draw: 13A (with 11x4.7 prop)**
**Max thrust: 900g+**
No Load Current: 1.2A
Shaft: 4M (perfectly suited to Towerpor/GWS SF Slow Fly props)
Weight: 78g
Diameter: 41mm
Overall length: 77mm
Kv: 700rpm/v

this tells us we will draw 13amps with an 11/47 slow fly prop and it will give us 900+ grams of thrust so we now know we need a esc that can handle 15amps continually and 18amps in short bursts which is more than the motor and props max draw we want less amp draw than the motors max so we pick a 10 inch prop instead of 11 inch we want help in slowing down motors on a windy day as it will give us a crisper response to throttle changes so we pick a 10/6 prop (which will give us 700+ grams of thrust and draw 11 to 12amps at WOT) for good solid control in wind but if we fly where there is less wind we can make the craft more stable by picking a lower pitch prop like a 10/45 which will spin faster than a 10/6 prop but due to extra...Continue Reading
Posted by drcigg | Nov 02, 2011 @ 10:54 PM | 4,152 Views
--TIP 1: Balancing props and motors is important for reducing vibrations which can interfere with gyros and accelerometers and cause fuzzy photos and video. Magnetic balancers are best for static balancing props. There are various techniques for dynamic balancing of the prop and motor combination, such as the procedure suggested by OMM here: Prop balancing video tutorials: prop balancing video tutorial (5 min 5 sec)Prop balancing thread:
--TIP 2: One often overlooked cause of vibrations after the motors and props are properly balanced is prop tracking. Check the props from the sides, if the blades are not in the same plane when spinning, that will cause some vibrations and possible oscillations in your model. Some props are just warped and need to be replaced. The centering of the prop hole is also important to eliminate vibrations. If your prop is not tight on the motor shaft and centered, it will cause vibrations.
--TIP 3**WARNING: Sand and round the prop blades to remove the very sharp manufacturing flashing to reduce the possibility of extremely severe cuts. Jesolins prop info:
--TIP 4: Also see the Vibration Solutions in this index.
--TIP 5: I prefer collet adapters that clamp over the set screw type for the best reliability. The reliability trick for collet adapters is to first roughen up...Continue Reading
Posted by drcigg | Oct 21, 2011 @ 12:03 AM | 4,043 Views
So far from the wonderful help of everyone here on the forum some great info has been passed.

Frame- VC-550 Quad/X8 Frame (340g)

Motor- Turnigy D2830-11 (416g) qty 8

Esc- Turnigy 25A plush (320g) qty8

10" X 4.7" or 10" X 3.8" for props

Turnigy 5000mAh 4S 40C
ZIPPY Flightmax 8000mAh 3S1P 30C

Both are about the same price however the extended flight times would be nice.

(Some info on Props as spoken by Firepong)

On 3S batteries -
*1200+kV - 7" Props
1100-1200 - 8" Props (1200 only for certain motors)
1000-1100 - 9" Props
840-950 - 10" props
750-840 - 11" props on middle to high end, 12" depending on motor on low end. Probably even 13" depending on motor. I know the AVRoto Motors can handle 13" blades on 3S easy.

On 4S batteries and lower kV, around the 750 to 900 mark, you can go to the next lowest prop size and will probably have to lower the pitch as well. All depends on how hot the motor gets with a certain prop.

But all of this is really trial and error. With the way these cheap motors come out with as much as 50kV off of their intended value, it's really best to do a test its that motor. I know some people don't have the money to just go out and buy 4 different sets of props, but it will protect you in the long run with your motors not burning out on you and making you buy more

For example, I run my NTM Prop Drive 2836 750kV motors on 4S and a 10x6 3-Blade GWS HD prop. I can run that combo all day and the motors will never burn out. I could put all my packs through it back in the summer and it came down at the same temperature as when they went up.

Motor database of tested motors