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Posted by skymaxy | Jan 24, 2014 @ 02:14 PM | 1,310 Views
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Posted by skymaxy | Jun 28, 2012 @ 02:04 AM | 3,031 Views
FMS/Airfield P-51 800mm FLAP MOD Mini-Mustang (0 min 15 sec)


All you need, 2 servos, 1 Y-Lead, 1 Servo Reverser, the Spare Horns and Clevis in your kit. If you dont want to make your Pushrods from scratch buy the ones pictured, (details in earlier post.)

Slit Flap hinges by not cutting all the way through and the Wing Tape on the underside provides a ready-made Hinge.

Trace outline and cut out recesses with a very sharp blade. (Cut Lugs off the sides of servos). Finish Recess with Dremel stone.

Fit servos and use existing channel for leads. Shorten Pushrods to correct length and install.
Posted by skymaxy | Jun 27, 2012 @ 06:27 PM | 3,033 Views
I should have put this with the Mainwheel Upgrade Post but anyway I guess you will see it.
The Tailwheel is now the last hard wheel remaining so grab some shock-absorbing 40mm urethane wheels from HK or something similar, they are only about 7mm larger diameter but they make a difference.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=10398

Drill out the Hub to 2mm + One Poofteenth so it turns easily, the width is the same as the stock one so no adjustment needed there.

The new Wheel will only slightly touch the Doors if it is at the crazy angle shown which never happens, unless you have setup a Castering Tailwheel. You can shave 1mm from the lower door edge if you like but it's not really required because the Foam is tougher than the Urethane.

The Tail can take big hits on paved surface, "Arrivals", and the urethane wheel will suck them up, they also steer much better when Taxiing because of the improved surface grip.
The benifits of easier Rolling on Grass with the larger diameter are obvious.

This mod only lowers the Nose by 2mm, (And not at all if you have already Upgraded the Mainwheels), because the Moment Arm is so long from the Mainwheels to the Tail compared to from the Mainwheels to the Nose, so dont worry about the Prop striking more often, it won't.
Posted by skymaxy | Jun 27, 2012 @ 06:21 PM | 3,156 Views
I used Dave Brown Lite Flite 2.5 inch wheels because I operate on longish grass but the 2 inch ones fit with almost no modification and not only look better but sound better because your Fighter wont rattle and shake on pavement like the hard stock ones do.

Small wire brush on your Dremel or Ellipsoid grindstone wheel is one way to remove foam and leaves a surface ready to paint without sanding if you are careful.

Remove the existing cardboard Door/Leg shims from their lower mounts and replace with thin rubber ones, tighten the topmost un-shimmed screws first then the lower ones until the Door is close to wheel.

The model now lands softly/quietly on pavement, rolls more easily and the curved tire face pushes grass stems aside instead of trying to roll over them like the flat tread dragster stock ones tend to do.

TIP: The C-Clips on the stub axles are not real spring steel so will stay slightly open after you remove them and not want to stay back on when re-assembled. You can try to re-tension them with your pliers and then spend half an hour looking for the tiny things under your Fridge or just go and buy some real spring steel C-Clips before you start.
Posted by skymaxy | Jun 27, 2012 @ 06:08 PM | 2,765 Views
Use 2mm Wire, cut and bend the Wire to the same configuration as the originals, except make the section between the Wing and Wheel 25mm longer, more if you like but no less.

I have chosen a lot of Forward Rake for my Grass field but it's up to you to decide how much Rake to use for your conditions, less Rake gives even more Prop clearance if you operate from pavement.

It is not easy to form 2mm Wire precisely and that's what is required to make it fit the Wing brackets properly so dont tackle this Mod unless you like a fiddly challenge. You will need Two pairs of large Pliers and preferably a Dremel-type tool to cut and grind the Wire ends smooth.
A simple wire bender like this would have made it easier:
http://www.harryhigley.com/Tools2.htm
After you have completed the Three basic bends you will have to twist the wing-end so it exits at 90Deg to the Wing and twist the Axle end so that it is parralel to the ground and at 90 Deg to the Plane's fuselage.

Complete with 2mm Axle Collets available from HK, I have used One each side because the wheel turns more easily when the hub is not against the lower bend. If you want to do this remember to allow extra Wire length for the Axle section when cutting.

This setup makes grass landings without Tipping and significantly improves Prop Clearance on all surfaces for those who like "Scale Takeoffs". Photo number Four shows increased prop clearance with the Tail raised to level attitude.

Black fittings on wingtips are HK plastic skates to protect the foam and paint on hard surface scrapes.
Posted by skymaxy | Jun 27, 2012 @ 05:52 PM | 2,789 Views
Posted by skymaxy | Apr 30, 2012 @ 06:39 AM | 3,264 Views
This no-frills Warbird is great value and with a 4S battery flies as well as any more expensive craft in it's category. however in construction it is difficult to obtain a firm connection of the UC Leg to the Wing with the stock setup. Also the wheels are only 50mm and grass Landing performance and scale can be enhanced by fitting larger wheels.
I have used 100mm Wheels because of my extreme local conditions but I think about 75mm or a little less would be adequate for most grass ops and closer to scale.

Leg Mod: Creating a firm connection between the UC Leg and the Wing plus adding Variable Forward Rake.
No parts required for the Leg Mod.

WheelMod: Fitting larger wheels and Axles.
Wheels3" (75mm) x 2- (not sold in pairs)- http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=4122
Axles x 2- http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17119
Collars/Stoppers x 4- http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8411

The Axle mount hole in the shaft must be drilled out to 4mm and the axle attached on the threaded end with an M4 nylock nut. Attach one Collar on each side of wheel. Large wheels may reqire the lower UC leg to be reinforced with a sleeve to safely bear the 4mm Axle. Always set a small amout of Toe-out on your Wheel to aid in crosswind landings.

I have my wheels turned outwards for extra wheelbase but it looks better and is correct to have your wheels on the Inside of the Legs on the FW.



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