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Posted by uberjay | Aug 15, 2013 @ 08:11 AM | 2,749 Views
Well, here's a quick pic / info on my J-Ray. Calling it that because it was inspired by / modeled after the E-Flite C-Ray.

Differences between the C-Ray and J-Ray:
  • C-Ray = 125g AUW ->> J-Ray = 70g AUW
  • C-Ray lists for $199 ->> J-Ray cost $2 foam + ~ $30 electronics
  • C-Ray is PNP and looks sleek ->> J-Ray is scratch built and looks as good as I can make it ;-)

Details of electronics:
The build was pretty easy... the worst, and the part I like the least, was the canopy build/design. The next version will require more artistic input and planning ;-).

Hope you like it.... the maiden will be today or tomorrow... video will follow (if I have time before I go on vacation with this puppy ).

Posted by uberjay | Jul 20, 2013 @ 11:29 AM | 4,078 Views
Hey ... this is just my own notes on what I grabbed and how I set it up for flashing Silabs chips ESCs (includes such ESCs as Turnigy Plush and many others). These ESCs have a less-than-stellar throttle curve even for fixed wing applications and I've seen evidence that the BLHeli (and SimonK) firmware with multi-copter settings can improve that. Sooo... my application currently is fixed wing; however, this is all more applicable to multi-rotor helicopters.

I'll share some links at the bottom, but my journey started with Jose over on the Big Blue design thread:

Where Jose pointed me to this site:

The oddcopter site suggests either using a Silabs toolstick or an arduino to do the flashing. I didn't have either and the Toolstick looked simpler. So I went with that. Also, I noticed when I got the Toolstick it had a funky plug end for devices. This, I believe, is why oddcopter suggests the soldering work it does on the site.

Instead, I spent a few more bucks and got the Silabs Toolstick Debug Adapter. It plugs right in and eliminates all soldering to the toolstick. So now the only (optional) soldering is to solder a plug onto the ESC - or not if you choose the clothes pin method mentioned on oddcopter.

Cutting to the chase, here's some photos of my rig:

Flashing rig plugged into a Turnigy Plush 30 ESC:

Note that I just cut the...Continue Reading
Posted by uberjay | Jun 05, 2013 @ 09:42 PM | 3,625 Views
Well, my daughter wanted a new plane. So... we went hunting and found the post about flying cows. Bingo! That was what she wanted.

I didn't have any 1/2 inch foam or the big parts and besides, I wanted her to be able to fly it indoors. So we miniturized it. AUW is 60 g!

Material = Dollar Store Foam
Artwork = Dad drew the cow shape and did all serious cuts. Carly did the painting.

Parts List for "Daisy":


Motor: - D1410 -
** Note: This motor came with a prop saver that was 'pressed' onto the shaft backwards. I had to remove that and in doing so destroyed the prop saver. I now have a prop adapter on it that works great! **

Prop: GWS 5030 (5"x3")
Rx: OrangeRx R415 -
ESC: Turnigy Plush 6A -
Servos: HK-5320 -
Lipo: Turnigy Nano-Tech 180 mah 2S 25-50C -

Attached are the pics. Maiden will be Saturday at the BMO Bash.

Posted by uberjay | Jul 16, 2012 @ 06:37 PM | 3,474 Views
So, I ventured into the $$ Store foam fliers and built a Nutball. My daughter caught me and wanted it called 'Domino' so - there you have it. I based my design on the RCG post here:

Anyway.... here's a quick vid - you can flip through my channel for the maiden if you like, but this one's the first full length flight I've made so far as I've been fighting the motor-prop quality/selection battle. Think I've got something close now.

Dimensions: 20" circumference before adding dihedral
Motor: 16 gram, 22mm Hextronic, 1700 kv
Battery: 450 mAh, 2S, GensAce
ESC: 10 Amp, Turnigy Plush
Servos: 5 gram hextronic analog

Feel free to post questions/etc. but way more details on Nutballs is in the link above.

Here's the vid:

Domino - the Nutball with a GWS 8043 prop (5 min 58 sec)

Thanks - hope you like my first blog entry.