RTL with Crius AIOP + ArduplaneNG + minimOSD on Dynam Hawk Sky
Hi. Here is a video of one of my first test flights with video + CRIUS AIOP flight controller with ArduplaneNG software :
- Flight controller: Crius AIOP v1 (Hobbyking clone)
- GPS: uBlox NEO-6M
- Firmware: ArduplaneNG (r300).
- Airspeed sensor MPXV7002DP + pitot tube from jDrones (airspeed shown on OSD but not (yet) used for navigation)
- OSD: minimOSD (extra 2.2).
- Plane: Dynam Hawk Sky / 2400kv motor & 6x3 prop / Turnigy Plush 40A ESC
- Video TX : 900MHz / 200mW
- Antennas: DIY inverted-V & ground-plane antennas
- Camera: 420TVL board camera (cheap...). 2.5mm lens
- RC RX: 2.4Ghz FrSky D4R-II in PPM mode
- Video recording (on ground): Easycap USB + Netbook + VirtualDub
| RTL with Crius AIOP+ArduplaneNG+minimOSD on Dynam Hawk Sky RC plane (5 min 14 sec) |
- Flight controller: Crius AIOP v1 (Hobbyking clone)
- GPS: uBlox NEO-6M
- Firmware: ArduplaneNG (r300).
- Airspeed sensor MPXV7002DP + pitot tube from jDrones (airspeed shown on OSD but not (yet) used for navigation)
- OSD: minimOSD (extra 2.2).
- Plane: Dynam Hawk Sky / 2400kv motor & 6x3 prop / Turnigy Plush 40A ESC
- Video TX : 900MHz / 200mW
- Antennas: DIY inverted-V & ground-plane antennas
- Camera: 420TVL board camera (cheap...). 2.5mm lens
- RC RX: 2.4Ghz FrSky D4R-II in PPM mode
- Video recording (on ground): Easycap USB + Netbook + VirtualDub
Repair a fried minimOSD (max7456 chip)
As many people, I fried two minimOSD [switching regulator version] 
... This is the faulty setup:
- 3S lipo connected to an ESC with BEC. The 5v output powers my flight controller (CRIUS AIOP) and the digital side of the minim OSD.
- The video power of the minim OSD was connected directly to the 3S Lipo (~12v).
- This worked for some time, but then, the MAX7456 chip died during tests (Atmet chip still ok, but no video output).
- The cause is still not completely clear to me... However, the Maxim data sheet says that there should be not more than 0.3v difference between the digital and analog grounds. Since I used a single battery, the two grounds are connected (via the lipo, the ESC and the CRIUS board) but when you plug/unplug it could be that there is a transient voltage difference exceeding 0.3v ?
- Anyway, you can ask for some free 'sample' MAX7456 chip on Maxim's web site (for test/evaluation purposes) to repair a fried OSD
.
This is how I did it:
0) Check that the Atmel chip is ok by connecting your (dead) minimOSD board to the configuration software.
1) Remove the Max7456 chip, cutting the leads with some hobby knife (no special soldering tool needed).
2) With a small iron tip, remove the small pieces of leads left on the board. Check that you did not shortcut two neighboring pads.
3) Solder the new chip - a magnifying glass helps. This is the slightly delicate step if you are not too familiar with soldering. I did it without flux, but it is probably...Continue Reading
... This is the faulty setup:- 3S lipo connected to an ESC with BEC. The 5v output powers my flight controller (CRIUS AIOP) and the digital side of the minim OSD.
- The video power of the minim OSD was connected directly to the 3S Lipo (~12v).
- This worked for some time, but then, the MAX7456 chip died during tests (Atmet chip still ok, but no video output).
- The cause is still not completely clear to me... However, the Maxim data sheet says that there should be not more than 0.3v difference between the digital and analog grounds. Since I used a single battery, the two grounds are connected (via the lipo, the ESC and the CRIUS board) but when you plug/unplug it could be that there is a transient voltage difference exceeding 0.3v ?
- Anyway, you can ask for some free 'sample' MAX7456 chip on Maxim's web site (for test/evaluation purposes) to repair a fried OSD
.This is how I did it:
0) Check that the Atmel chip is ok by connecting your (dead) minimOSD board to the configuration software.
1) Remove the Max7456 chip, cutting the leads with some hobby knife (no special soldering tool needed).
2) With a small iron tip, remove the small pieces of leads left on the board. Check that you did not shortcut two neighboring pads.
3) Solder the new chip - a magnifying glass helps. This is the slightly delicate step if you are not too familiar with soldering. I did it without flux, but it is probably...Continue Reading
-
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Removing a dead Max7456 chip with a hobby knife -
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Max chip removed. Still need to remove the "legs" left on the board, using a (small) soldering iron. -
Views: 57
Solder the new chip. No special tool needed, except for a fine soldering tip and a magnifying glass. Just press the leads on the soldering pads. I did not have to add any solder. -
Views: 48
I do not want to fry a 3rd one... so I connected the digital & video power rails direclty on the board. My minimOSD board (clone sold by Goodluckbuy) has no solder pad to connect the power lines. So I just put two pieces of wire instead. -
Views: 40
OSD repaired ! Just need to put the correct character set (with the OSD config tool)
DIY altimeter for FrSky telemetry receivers with Arduino & BMP085
Hi,
Let me share this cheap and simple barometric altimeter. It is largely based on this altimeter (by KapteinKuk), except that it uses a cheaper BMP085 sensor, and the altitude is sent to the ground via an FrSky telemetry link. It also sends the time from start, the current temperature and the max. temperature. All these data appear on a FLD-02 telemetry screen for instance. A lot of informations concerning the FrSky serial telemetry protocol (including links to several arduino codes) can be found on this thread.
And here is another similar project: OpenXVario.
To get a reasonable accuracy, the arduino code makes the average of 10 consecutive measurements and sends the results every 300ms. The accuracy seems to be of the order of 1~2m. This can be made more accurate by taking more, say 30, measurements and sending the result once every second (conversion time is about 30ms).
Here is the code:
...Continue Reading
Let me share this cheap and simple barometric altimeter. It is largely based on this altimeter (by KapteinKuk), except that it uses a cheaper BMP085 sensor, and the altitude is sent to the ground via an FrSky telemetry link. It also sends the time from start, the current temperature and the max. temperature. All these data appear on a FLD-02 telemetry screen for instance. A lot of informations concerning the FrSky serial telemetry protocol (including links to several arduino codes) can be found on this thread.
And here is another similar project: OpenXVario.
To get a reasonable accuracy, the arduino code makes the average of 10 consecutive measurements and sends the results every 300ms. The accuracy seems to be of the order of 1~2m. This can be made more accurate by taking more, say 30, measurements and sending the result once every second (conversion time is about 30ms).
Here is the code:
Code:
#include <LiquidCrystal.h> // Author: Grmis, 04/2013 // Arduino Pro Mini 3.3v connected to BMP085 barometer breackout // throught I2C // Arduino connected to 'RX' line of FrSky D8R-2 receiver // through digital Pin (use SoftSerial with inversion) // Although the arduino is 3.3v, it seems that the 5v receiver understands it :-) // code based on the original codes by: // Rolf R Bakke // R.Schlohan // BMP085 Extended Example Code by: Jim Lindblom (SparkFun Electronics) #include <Wire.h> // I2C to communiucate with the sensor #
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From front to back: BMP085 pressure sensor breakout, Arduino Pro Mini, and D8R-II Receiver. The blue connector is used to upload the firmware to the arduino using an FTDI adapter (there is no USB connection on this small Arduino board). -
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The data go to the receiver through the "RX" pin of the D8R-II. -
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Standard I2C connection (SDA & SCL) between the BMP085 board and the arduino.
CRIUS AIO PRO + ArduplaneNG + Dynam HawkSky
Two days ago I did the maiden flight of my autopilot system:
- Plane: Dynam Hawk Sky
- Flight controller: CRIUS AIO Pro (v1, first batch sold by HobbyKing)
- Software: ArduPlaneNG (r268). I found a lot of useful informations on the blog of Jean-Louis Naudin.
- For the PID parameters, I took those given here for the bixler. However, because the plane is somewhat overpowered, I reduced to 50% the max throttle in auto mode, and set to 35% the cruising throttle.
- GPS: uBlox LEA6H
- Receiver: FrSky D4R-II in CPPM (PPM SUM) mode (single wire going to the CRIUS board). One just has to add ' #define SERIAL_PPM ENABLE ' in APM_Config.h, and the PPM_SUM line goes to the throttle input of the Crius board.
I tested the stabilize, fly-by-wire-A (FBWA), return to launch (RTL) and Loiter modes with success
. With some wind blowing at 10-20km/h the loiter trajectory was not quite a circle, but ok. Otherwise the plane was stable and ArduplaneNG nicely managed the throttle to maintain the speed and altitude.
I am now waiting for a minimOSD to install the FPV gear back in the plane.
- Plane: Dynam Hawk Sky
- Flight controller: CRIUS AIO Pro (v1, first batch sold by HobbyKing)
- Software: ArduPlaneNG (r268). I found a lot of useful informations on the blog of Jean-Louis Naudin.
- For the PID parameters, I took those given here for the bixler. However, because the plane is somewhat overpowered, I reduced to 50% the max throttle in auto mode, and set to 35% the cruising throttle.
- GPS: uBlox LEA6H
- Receiver: FrSky D4R-II in CPPM (PPM SUM) mode (single wire going to the CRIUS board). One just has to add ' #define SERIAL_PPM ENABLE ' in APM_Config.h, and the PPM_SUM line goes to the throttle input of the Crius board.
I tested the stabilize, fly-by-wire-A (FBWA), return to launch (RTL) and Loiter modes with success
. With some wind blowing at 10-20km/h the loiter trajectory was not quite a circle, but ok. Otherwise the plane was stable and ArduplaneNG nicely managed the throttle to maintain the speed and altitude.I am now waiting for a minimOSD to install the FPV gear back in the plane.
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Views: 55
The GPS is not visible here, it is inside the fuse and slightly behind the motor pod. There is also an Frsky antenna running along the tail. This is to limit interferences with the FPV video TX (900Mhz) which is going to be in the cockpit. -
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The balance plug of the lipo (Nano-tech 3S 1800mAh) goes to a voltage divider, and then to the analog input of the FrSky receiver (telemetry). The ESC is a Turnigy Plush 40A (a bit over-sized for this plane/prop/motor combo). -
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The crius board is just fixed with some piece of velcro. A big cap. filters the 5v power rail. The 3A/5v BEC of the ESC powers the Crius board (+receiver & 4 servos)
mCPx
For completeness, I am adding my last (but not least) bird to this blog. No much to say, everything is stock, but it is a great little machine !
Just notice on the picture that one can use a (switching) UBEC to power the Celectra charger with 6 volts. This way I can charge the mCPx lipo from a larger Lipo, no need to have a wall plug.
Just notice on the picture that one can use a (switching) UBEC to power the Celectra charger with 6 volts. This way I can charge the mCPx lipo from a larger Lipo, no need to have a wall plug.
Progress - Indoor EPP
I go on posting some pictures of my birds.
This is an indoor/F3P plane, dubbed "Progress". It is made from 6mm EPP. You can find some build informations here (fly-international.fr). Electronic setup:
- Motor: Turnigy 2204-14T 19g
- Propeller: GWS RD 8*4.3
- 6A Plush ESC.
- 6ch DSM2 OrangeRX, without case and servo wires soldered directly (no plugs) to save a little bit of weight.
- HXT500 servos for elevator & rudder (push-pull system)
- HXT900 servo for ailerons
- Rhino 360mAh 2S
This is an indoor/F3P plane, dubbed "Progress". It is made from 6mm EPP. You can find some build informations here (fly-international.fr). Electronic setup:
- Motor: Turnigy 2204-14T 19g
- Propeller: GWS RD 8*4.3
- 6A Plush ESC.
- 6ch DSM2 OrangeRX, without case and servo wires soldered directly (no plugs) to save a little bit of weight.
- HXT500 servos for elevator & rudder (push-pull system)
- HXT900 servo for ailerons
- Rhino 360mAh 2S
FPV Plane
It is an Easy-star clone with ailerons (= Dynam Hawk Sky = Smart Fly Junior ).
I use if for (short-range) FPV. It is a basic and light setup:
- Motor: ~ 2400kv (Hoffman Magnetics Super Sport) & 6x4 propeller.
- 900Mhz / 200mW Video TX from Hobby King
- Inverted Vee antenna in the plane and ground-plane on the receiver side (Thanks IBCrazy).
- To help tuning the antenna, I built this DIY SWR meter.
- 520TVL sony board camera, 2.5mm lens
- Remzibi OSD.
- Goggles: Fatshark rcv922 Base.
A not-so-recent video:
I am now (march 2013) installing an autopilot in it (CRIUS AIO v1 + ArduPlaneNG + minimOSD + uBlox GPS). More pictures coming soon !
I use if for (short-range) FPV. It is a basic and light setup:
- Motor: ~ 2400kv (Hoffman Magnetics Super Sport) & 6x4 propeller.
- 900Mhz / 200mW Video TX from Hobby King
- Inverted Vee antenna in the plane and ground-plane on the receiver side (Thanks IBCrazy).
- To help tuning the antenna, I built this DIY SWR meter.
- 520TVL sony board camera, 2.5mm lens
- Remzibi OSD.
- Goggles: Fatshark rcv922 Base.
A not-so-recent video:
| First FPV flights with an EZ* clone, Hobby King 900Mhz/200mW/420TVL system + Remzibi OSD (4 min 13 sec) |
I am now (march 2013) installing an autopilot in it (CRIUS AIO v1 + ArduPlaneNG + minimOSD + uBlox GPS). More pictures coming soon !
Blade mCX
Co-axial heli of the kids, with young pilot doing a pre-flight inspection
Aerocat
This one does not fly...
More info on this (french) forum:
http://www.modelisme.com/forum/aero-...format-4a.html
More info on this (french) forum:
http://www.modelisme.com/forum/aero-...format-4a.html
Easy Glider Pro
My Easy Glider, filmed with a 808#16 keychain camera:
It is equipped with an DIY altimeter/vario inspired from this one.
The pressure is measured by a BMP085 sensor (cheaper but less accurate than the MS5611) and, using an Arduino pro mini, sent to the ground via the telemetry link of an FrSky receiver D6FR.
I am not sure if this is really useful... but fun to build :-)
| 808 #16 keychain camera on an EasyGlider (2 min 23 sec) |
It is equipped with an DIY altimeter/vario inspired from this one.
The pressure is measured by a BMP085 sensor (cheaper but less accurate than the MS5611) and, using an Arduino pro mini, sent to the ground via the telemetry link of an FrSky receiver D6FR.
I am not sure if this is really useful... but fun to build :-)
Mig-15 (Alpha models)
I go on introducing my (modest) fleet:
Mig-15 from Alpha-model (wing span: 750 mm).
I got it used for ~40$ PNF (it already had several crashes & repairs !) so I can learn how to fly an electric ducted fan-powered jet without much risk...
http://www.alfamodel.cz/index_eng.htm
Mig-15 from Alpha-model (wing span: 750 mm).
I got it used for ~40$ PNF (it already had several crashes & repairs !) so I can learn how to fly an electric ducted fan-powered jet without much risk...
http://www.alfamodel.cz/index_eng.htm
HK450Pro TT FBL v2
Let's try to put something in this blog !
I will start with my HK450 setup:
Gyro: Tarot ZYX, firmware 4.0
Servos: HK933 servos on the cyclic, Power HD 3688HB on the tail
Motor: Turnigy Typhoon 450H 2215H, 13T.
ESC: YEP 45a, with govervor tuned at 2850rpm (I know it is not much...). Installed below the frame.
7$-HK carbon blades.
Receiver: FrSky D6FR (installed inside the frame), monitoring (telemetry) the Lipo and BEC voltages.
I will start with my HK450 setup:
Gyro: Tarot ZYX, firmware 4.0
Servos: HK933 servos on the cyclic, Power HD 3688HB on the tail
Motor: Turnigy Typhoon 450H 2215H, 13T.
ESC: YEP 45a, with govervor tuned at 2850rpm (I know it is not much...). Installed below the frame.
7$-HK carbon blades.
Receiver: FrSky D6FR (installed inside the frame), monitoring (telemetry) the Lipo and BEC voltages.
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HK450TT Pro FBL v2 -
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Some upgrades: dual arm tail pitch slider (ebay), grip-flip mod, carbon boom (HK). -
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The balance plug is here to monitor the pack voltage. It goes into a 1/4 voltage divider (multi-turn 20k potentiometer, under the battery) and then into the analog input A2 of the D6FR FrSky receiver.
