Some notes on the ORX 3AS V2 and DX6i settings...
I noticed that many members here are having challenges with the Orange RX V2 system in their planes. I thought it might be a good idea to share what I have learned and the settings I use to successfully utilize this handy accessory.
First thing! This is NOT a 3D or aerobatic stabilizer!!! Don't expect that. The unit is designed for FPV, video, and general flight stabilization during NORMAL flight phases. Anything more aggressive and the unit will work to compensate somewhat for what it sees as a major change in flight attitude and compensate for it depending upon the gain settings on the unit!!! Loops and rolls will be slower and require more input on the sticks.
The V2 and integrated V3 units do well when reasonable gains are selected, and the unit can be set to turn cleanly on and off an aux channel. I use the gear channel on my radio, using a AR500 sport full-range receiver and use the gear switch it to turn the stabilizer on and off.
To use this unit properly, set the gains around the 1-2 o-clock position as a start. Make sure that your hookup is correct as well. If your ORX unit must be placed such that the unit is not FAT side forward facing up, you'll have to most likely reverse the aileron channel on the unit, and if you have to place it sideways for some reason in the radio tray due to size/layout restrictions, then be mindful that you will have to use the outputs differently! Your yaw axis might now be your roll axis, and pitch may be yaw now, for...Continue Reading
First thing! This is NOT a 3D or aerobatic stabilizer!!! Don't expect that. The unit is designed for FPV, video, and general flight stabilization during NORMAL flight phases. Anything more aggressive and the unit will work to compensate somewhat for what it sees as a major change in flight attitude and compensate for it depending upon the gain settings on the unit!!! Loops and rolls will be slower and require more input on the sticks.
The V2 and integrated V3 units do well when reasonable gains are selected, and the unit can be set to turn cleanly on and off an aux channel. I use the gear channel on my radio, using a AR500 sport full-range receiver and use the gear switch it to turn the stabilizer on and off.
To use this unit properly, set the gains around the 1-2 o-clock position as a start. Make sure that your hookup is correct as well. If your ORX unit must be placed such that the unit is not FAT side forward facing up, you'll have to most likely reverse the aileron channel on the unit, and if you have to place it sideways for some reason in the radio tray due to size/layout restrictions, then be mindful that you will have to use the outputs differently! Your yaw axis might now be your roll axis, and pitch may be yaw now, for...Continue Reading
Yak55 Maiden successful! YEAH!
Finally!! 
The weather has warmed, and no major systems passing through... a perfect maiden opportunity!
The Yak55 flew absolutely flawlessly, with only one upward tick on the trim to fly at cruise! CG is around 90mm on this bird, and it is absolutely the smoothest and most crisply responding plane in my arsenal!!!
I think that the success of this was the digitial HD1815MG servos all around. VERY crisp and clean control of the aircraft, and the motor was very smooth and quiet as well. My 6.5 minute maiden used only ~1050mAh of the available 1950 (to 75% voltage level of the 2600mAh total). My second run ran 9.5 minutes, and I used 1710mAh, with a mix of cruise, WOT flybys and some aerobatics. So, a 10-11 minute flight time is about what I can expect in general.
Landing was like silk, though in the maiden video below (link) I JUST tip stalled on TD. So, I'll have to watch the approach speed.
The ORX 3AS stabilizer (V2) also did a dandy job, though I mostly flew with it off. Landings were done with it on, but the way this plane flies, I probably only will need it in moderate winds for TO and TD.
This is one responsive and zippy airframe, well worth the money IMO. I was totally impressed by the flight characteristics of this model so far. More to come!
Maiden Video 1:
Maiden Video2:
...Continue Reading
The weather has warmed, and no major systems passing through... a perfect maiden opportunity!
The Yak55 flew absolutely flawlessly, with only one upward tick on the trim to fly at cruise! CG is around 90mm on this bird, and it is absolutely the smoothest and most crisply responding plane in my arsenal!!!
I think that the success of this was the digitial HD1815MG servos all around. VERY crisp and clean control of the aircraft, and the motor was very smooth and quiet as well. My 6.5 minute maiden used only ~1050mAh of the available 1950 (to 75% voltage level of the 2600mAh total). My second run ran 9.5 minutes, and I used 1710mAh, with a mix of cruise, WOT flybys and some aerobatics. So, a 10-11 minute flight time is about what I can expect in general.
Landing was like silk, though in the maiden video below (link) I JUST tip stalled on TD. So, I'll have to watch the approach speed.
The ORX 3AS stabilizer (V2) also did a dandy job, though I mostly flew with it off. Landings were done with it on, but the way this plane flies, I probably only will need it in moderate winds for TO and TD.
This is one responsive and zippy airframe, well worth the money IMO. I was totally impressed by the flight characteristics of this model so far. More to come!
Maiden Video 1:
| HK Yak55 EP Maiden 2 (4 min 12 sec) |
Maiden Video2:
...Continue Reading
Oops!
Well, I am itching to get the Yak 55 up and flying, and while making the covering taut, the tip delaminated. I'll have a repair job before we can maiden her! ...
Any suggestions on repairing this would be welcomed. I am thinking that I'll soften the covering under low iron heat (covering iron) and then smooth it out, and then re-adhere to the tip, using CA as an additional bonding agent. Then, apply some clear mono kote, or similar to seal the tip if necessary. Thoughts?
SkyCadet
Any suggestions on repairing this would be welcomed. I am thinking that I'll soften the covering under low iron heat (covering iron) and then smooth it out, and then re-adhere to the tip, using CA as an additional bonding agent. Then, apply some clear mono kote, or similar to seal the tip if necessary. Thoughts?
SkyCadet
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tip debonding. Suspect a dry attachment that came free under heating with the heat gun. -
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Side view. If this tip were not tapered, it would be an easy repair. -
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Slow low iron heat should smooth out most of the wrinkles. -
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Port wing after similar treatment... Looks fine!
Finally some testing done!!! :))) ORX V2
Well, we had a "winter's last stand" come through this and last weekend, but it warmed up enough to test my V2 ORX flight stabilizer on Sunday. (Apr 21)
Winds were slightly variable, between 25-35km/h max. Normally, I'd not be flying in this kind of weather, but I wanted to try my 18oz Super Decathlon with the V2 stabilizer from HK. I'm running 3S on that plane now, with a Turnigy AE25 ESC and RC Timer 1400Kv motor with a Powerflow 8x6 on it. Flies great!
My two friends brought out their Super Cubs (Hobbyzone styro versions) with BL power systems. BRAVE!!! One had a 1 min. flight and had to bail due to a strong down-gust during a low turn over the field. No damage, but he felt it too windy to continue. Another pilot and friend had recently finished covering his plane and modding it a bit, so he went next. He had forgotten to adhere his rudder
and it came off just after takeoff. He had a heck of a time holding it and was also able to bail with only some cowling and prop damage. Whew. Do I fly now??? 
The ORX 3AS V2 did a dandy job on holding the plane well in the wind - takeoff was swift and I had no problem holding the plane in the wind. Periodically, I turned off the ORX to do some snap rolls and loops, then returned it to stabilizing mode - everything worked perfectly, and allowed me to fly for 11 minutes on my 3S 850mAh battery!
I brought her in on a test pass, just missing a tree, and then came in under light power and with the V2 on. the plane held orientation very well, and flared nicely! The only thing I noticed is an occasional periodic tail wag on fast downwind which is probably mostly due to some slight excess gain in the channel, but given the rock solid ability to fly in wind like this, I think I'll leave it for now. I was very happy on how well the plane held in the wind.
I can't wait to maiden my Yak 55! I promised my pal to wait until his Edge 540T is done, and that's this upcoming weekend!!!
Skycadet
Winds were slightly variable, between 25-35km/h max. Normally, I'd not be flying in this kind of weather, but I wanted to try my 18oz Super Decathlon with the V2 stabilizer from HK. I'm running 3S on that plane now, with a Turnigy AE25 ESC and RC Timer 1400Kv motor with a Powerflow 8x6 on it. Flies great!
My two friends brought out their Super Cubs (Hobbyzone styro versions) with BL power systems. BRAVE!!! One had a 1 min. flight and had to bail due to a strong down-gust during a low turn over the field. No damage, but he felt it too windy to continue. Another pilot and friend had recently finished covering his plane and modding it a bit, so he went next. He had forgotten to adhere his rudder
and it came off just after takeoff. He had a heck of a time holding it and was also able to bail with only some cowling and prop damage. Whew. Do I fly now??? The ORX 3AS V2 did a dandy job on holding the plane well in the wind - takeoff was swift and I had no problem holding the plane in the wind. Periodically, I turned off the ORX to do some snap rolls and loops, then returned it to stabilizing mode - everything worked perfectly, and allowed me to fly for 11 minutes on my 3S 850mAh battery!
I brought her in on a test pass, just missing a tree, and then came in under light power and with the V2 on. the plane held orientation very well, and flared nicely! The only thing I noticed is an occasional periodic tail wag on fast downwind which is probably mostly due to some slight excess gain in the channel, but given the rock solid ability to fly in wind like this, I think I'll leave it for now. I was very happy on how well the plane held in the wind.
I can't wait to maiden my Yak 55! I promised my pal to wait until his Edge 540T is done, and that's this upcoming weekend!!!
Skycadet
Winter finally on the way out!!!
OMG!
Finally, old man winter has left our region - snow is finally going away off the flying field, and we expect in the next 7-10 days to finally maiden the Yak 55, and start flying the Pitts 12 again as well...
Our spring had just stalled again and again as arctic fronts kept sweeping in over late March and early April to keep us in white stuff. But alas, it is finally happening! Last year at this time, I was already flying norammly not on skis for over a month already! Sheesh!
Will post some pics and vid links once we are able to get back to the groove!
Skycadet
Finally, old man winter has left our region - snow is finally going away off the flying field, and we expect in the next 7-10 days to finally maiden the Yak 55, and start flying the Pitts 12 again as well...
Our spring had just stalled again and again as arctic fronts kept sweeping in over late March and early April to keep us in white stuff. But alas, it is finally happening! Last year at this time, I was already flying norammly not on skis for over a month already! Sheesh!
Will post some pics and vid links once we are able to get back to the groove!
Skycadet
Realflight 6/6.5 sound file for RC Timer motor
For those on knifedge coming here, sorry, but the zip file is over the 500kb limit.
Here is the file of a 1250Kv, 3536-6 500W RCTimer motor
SkyCadet
Here is the file of a 1250Kv, 3536-6 500W RCTimer motor
SkyCadet
Linearization of servos, and expo setting info...
Taking the mystery out of expo settings on radios --- finally!
Did you ever wonder what those functions actually were that set the "expo" for your radios? Well, wonder no longer!
These are actually CUBIC functions that are symmetrical about the y-axis (relative throw) and are designed to either reduce or enhance response up to full throws.
After some digging, here is the formula!!!
y = rx³ + (1-r)x
Where:
x = control throw (stick position) amount. -1<x<1 for most radios;
r = the exponential rate setting in decimal equivalent of %.
(so for example, 25% expo = 0.25, and x = ±1.00 for full stick movement)
I have verified this result with two sources: One on the net, and another with software - Real Flight expos do the same on expo rates on models.
So, what does this really mean? The higher the expo, (above zero), the more dead band we find in the center of the stick positions - this IS useful to linearize a model's deflection of control surfaces. Did you think that throws are linear? Nope, not quite. The SERVOS are, in angle versus input from the sticks, but the movement is actually the SINE of the angle. I have some data below that illustrates what the relative motions of the surfaces behave for three angles: ±45°, ±60°, and ±75°.
±60 degrees is the normal throws at 100% for most servos. 75° is a 125% setting on control throws, and 45° is at the 75% throw rate.
The reason this is important to consider is that...Continue Reading
Did you ever wonder what those functions actually were that set the "expo" for your radios? Well, wonder no longer!
These are actually CUBIC functions that are symmetrical about the y-axis (relative throw) and are designed to either reduce or enhance response up to full throws.
After some digging, here is the formula!!!
y = rx³ + (1-r)x
Where:
x = control throw (stick position) amount. -1<x<1 for most radios;
r = the exponential rate setting in decimal equivalent of %.
(so for example, 25% expo = 0.25, and x = ±1.00 for full stick movement)
I have verified this result with two sources: One on the net, and another with software - Real Flight expos do the same on expo rates on models.
So, what does this really mean? The higher the expo, (above zero), the more dead band we find in the center of the stick positions - this IS useful to linearize a model's deflection of control surfaces. Did you think that throws are linear? Nope, not quite. The SERVOS are, in angle versus input from the sticks, but the movement is actually the SINE of the angle. I have some data below that illustrates what the relative motions of the surfaces behave for three angles: ±45°, ±60°, and ±75°.
±60 degrees is the normal throws at 100% for most servos. 75° is a 125% setting on control throws, and 45° is at the 75% throw rate.
The reason this is important to consider is that...Continue Reading
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How expo settings change the response of the radio RX to stick inputs from the TX. -
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Table showing relative expo settings for selected values from 0% to 100%. Red indicates a negative or reverse position of the stick. -
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45° servo nonlinearity in throw magnitude vs 15% expo. Normalized to 100%. -
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60° servo nonlinearity in throw magnitude vs 25% expo. Normalized. -
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75° servo nonlinearity in throw magnitude vs 35% expo. Normalized graph
Friend's DX7s backlight mod complete too!!
My buddy ordered a backlight 9X kit the same time as mine, but he had not been in town until today. He brought by his DX7s (also requiring a backlight) and we installed it today!
It turned out superbly! See pix below. same basic deal as the DX6i, except the power is tapped off the positive lead off the vibration motor (to pin 2, the outermost pin on the connector left, fifth from the black lead on the 9X's connector plug) and the negative goes to the furthest right pin on the back of the radio (rear half board) (to pin 3, the innermost remaining lead).
See helifreak's DX7s backlight mod. (google it). Also, I left the heat shrink on his 9X connector, whereas for some unknown reason, HF took his off.
His install also made a slightly brighter white screen on the right side. I avoided this by using thin 1/16" foam double sticky tape on the board, and then the panel stuck to it. I then epoxied the main display edges (like I did on my Dx6i) to the panel, and added some foam sticky material that came with the 9X kit (~3/8" wide) on the exposed remainder of the panel that is past the right side of the screen (like I did with the 6i mod below). this acted like a spacer to avoid screen damage, and also hides the uncovered bare panel from creating inner reflections leading to a brighter right side (see HF's pix). Ours turned out perfectly!
Also used a Radio shack 4xAA flat AA holder with a cordless phone plug to allow either the stock NiMH pack OR 4xAA (NiMH or Alkaline) to be used in the TX! See pic below. Removal of the foam inserts allows a clean fit to this mod!
**make sure to reverse polarity on the plug - Spektrum has theirs opposite for some reason!
SkyCadet
It turned out superbly! See pix below. same basic deal as the DX6i, except the power is tapped off the positive lead off the vibration motor (to pin 2, the outermost pin on the connector left, fifth from the black lead on the 9X's connector plug) and the negative goes to the furthest right pin on the back of the radio (rear half board) (to pin 3, the innermost remaining lead).
See helifreak's DX7s backlight mod. (google it). Also, I left the heat shrink on his 9X connector, whereas for some unknown reason, HF took his off.
His install also made a slightly brighter white screen on the right side. I avoided this by using thin 1/16" foam double sticky tape on the board, and then the panel stuck to it. I then epoxied the main display edges (like I did on my Dx6i) to the panel, and added some foam sticky material that came with the 9X kit (~3/8" wide) on the exposed remainder of the panel that is past the right side of the screen (like I did with the 6i mod below). this acted like a spacer to avoid screen damage, and also hides the uncovered bare panel from creating inner reflections leading to a brighter right side (see HF's pix). Ours turned out perfectly!
Also used a Radio shack 4xAA flat AA holder with a cordless phone plug to allow either the stock NiMH pack OR 4xAA (NiMH or Alkaline) to be used in the TX! See pic below. Removal of the foam inserts allows a clean fit to this mod!
**make sure to reverse polarity on the plug - Spektrum has theirs opposite for some reason!
SkyCadet
DX6i Backlight mod done!
Can you tell I am happy?
Finally! I love my DX6i, but reading the display and not having the ability to read it under sunny days well, or at dusk, really sucked!
I have some photos of the 9X backlight kit I got from HobbyKing. These are $5, and well worth the $$. My DX6i is a great radio, and having used it with many of my models, I wonder why Spektrum left a backlight off the unit in the first place! The 6i TX is sometimes all one needs to fly a 4-5ch plane.
Took about 30 minutes total. I had to epoxy my display due to the issues with solder tails left too high on the circuit board preventing the use of hot glue easily or double-sided sticky foam tape. As you can see in the photo below, the display is crisp and clean - finally! Spektrum better start to add this as a feature in ALL radios moving forward. No excuses.
Notice I also added a swiveled extension for balancing the radio better using my neck strap, and wider thumb stix. both work well, got them off eBay.
| DX6i Backlight install using the $5 Turnigy 9X Kit (18 min 35 sec) |
This video is 18 min long, and the fellow does an excellent job of showing how to do this mod. not hard, and only one solder position to make work!! I highly recommend this. All one does is to remove the jumpers off the bottom display board, pull off the TX module, remove the display and put the 9x display under the glass display. Affix however you can, and BINGO!
SkyCadet
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Hobby King's Turnigy 9X backlight kit. I got the white panel. This is VERY nice, and I highly recommend the white color. It is just the perfect balance of brightness and contrast with this TX. -
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$5 plus shipping gets you this fantastic mod option for your radio! See Youtube vid link above for details... -
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Red larger thumbstix and swivel balancing mount for the radio! I like these sticks - they are much better to use with gloves or even barehanded! -
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Now is that awesome, or what?! This white disply is slightly bluish, but now the display is absolutely crisp to read ANYTIME. I run at 40% contrast. Display is on when radio is on, off when off.
Working on backlights for my DX6i...
While the weather is not entirely ideal for flying right now, I have always wanted a backlight system for my DX6i. My friend has a similar issue with his DX7s.
We ordered some 9X Turnigy backlight kits from HK, and will be putting them in when they arrive. I'll post some pics and maybe a vid or two of the procedure for those interested. It looks very easy to do. Stay tuned! The mail should arrive around just after Christmas, maybe sooner!
Skycadet
We ordered some 9X Turnigy backlight kits from HK, and will be putting them in when they arrive. I'll post some pics and maybe a vid or two of the procedure for those interested. It looks very easy to do. Stay tuned! The mail should arrive around just after Christmas, maybe sooner!
Skycadet
Bitterly cold here in Edmonton!
Well, it warmed up a bit this weekend, and I was able to fly my Super dec BL on skis, but the wind chill was near -5F!!!
Getting waaay to cold for this ol' flyer to enjoy the skies with those kind of conditions, so I am practicing my flying with RF 6.5 whilst I await the new batteries for the Yak 55 from HK. They MAY just even make it in time for Christmas...
Skycadet
Getting waaay to cold for this ol' flyer to enjoy the skies with those kind of conditions, so I am practicing my flying with RF 6.5 whilst I await the new batteries for the Yak 55 from HK. They MAY just even make it in time for Christmas...
Skycadet
Spinner arrived!!
Just finished putting on my new polished aluminum 2" spinner!
all looks good!
Just some wiring tidy up and we're ready to maiden.
SkyCadet
all looks good!
Just some wiring tidy up and we're ready to maiden.
SkyCadet
Yak 55 nearly finished!!!
Below are the pictures of the new Yak 55 sans spinner (stuck in the mail still!)
But all the hookups are done. Just have to clean up the wiring a bit, and figure out a few layouts for batteries, and fully attach the wings.
This plane has a LOT of throws on the control surfaces, so I set 50% for low rates (63% actually, 1/2 of the 125% I'm running the servos at on high rates).
This plane's color scheme and layout are truly superb, IMO. I really love the color scheme and format, and I am very proud of this model with the extras I put into her, such as the vanes, and CF gear. It really looks cool on there, and gives a very stable stance now to the plane. I'm SO glad that I did it...
Dry empty weight with no batteries is about 34.5oz (975g).
Comments welcomed. I am not sure exactly when I can maiden her, as it's very cold (-18C) and very snowy. Probably a few weeks before I may be able to take her up.
*I am also deciding on battery layout - this plane's CG sits right about where the main wing joiner tube fits, 85mm aft of the wing leading edge. However, I have NO way to fit standard 2200mAh batteries in her, as there's too much cross member and stuff to permit it. Further, even if I could, I'd probably need about an extra 30-50g minimum in the tail now to balance her out. Yes, the vanes and CF gear probably added about 2oz total, but the joiner tube is sort of in the way (but has to be there!). I'll figure it out, probably 2x 1300 30C 3S Lipos in parallel.
Sky Cadet
But all the hookups are done. Just have to clean up the wiring a bit, and figure out a few layouts for batteries, and fully attach the wings.
This plane has a LOT of throws on the control surfaces, so I set 50% for low rates (63% actually, 1/2 of the 125% I'm running the servos at on high rates).
This plane's color scheme and layout are truly superb, IMO. I really love the color scheme and format, and I am very proud of this model with the extras I put into her, such as the vanes, and CF gear. It really looks cool on there, and gives a very stable stance now to the plane. I'm SO glad that I did it...
Dry empty weight with no batteries is about 34.5oz (975g).
Comments welcomed. I am not sure exactly when I can maiden her, as it's very cold (-18C) and very snowy. Probably a few weeks before I may be able to take her up.
*I am also deciding on battery layout - this plane's CG sits right about where the main wing joiner tube fits, 85mm aft of the wing leading edge. However, I have NO way to fit standard 2200mAh batteries in her, as there's too much cross member and stuff to permit it. Further, even if I could, I'd probably need about an extra 30-50g minimum in the tail now to balance her out. Yes, the vanes and CF gear probably added about 2oz total, but the joiner tube is sort of in the way (but has to be there!). I'll figure it out, probably 2x 1300 30C 3S Lipos in parallel.
Sky Cadet
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The Almost-done Yak 55!!! CF Gear struts and motor intake vanes are visible... -
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Side view of my new Yak! I love this color scheme, and the CF gear are perfectly suited to this model, IMO. -
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The Yak 55: Topside view... -
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Placed in the living room to give an idea how this model appears relative to general items. It's a very nice size, at 45" wingspan. AUW is estimated for My Yak to be ~43oz.
Yak 55: the final stretch!
I finished connecting and centering the servos/horns, and installed the motor mount into the fuselage.
Final test fit of the cowling prior to adding mount screws, and the plane looks VERY nice, if I do say so myself! Below are two shots of the plane minus wings (easier to finish electronics layout without them on the plane for now), showing the vane system and prop as it will appear when I am done.
A static motor test the other day on the RCTimer 3536-6 1250Kv, 500W motor running the MAS 11x7 3-blade prop had around 330W peak on WOT with a nominal (not fully charged) battery, running just under 37Ap. 50% ran around 130W at 11.6-11.7A. well within the capaibilities of this 3S system, and some room for tolerance on the power system (ESC is Turnigy 45A/55Ap unit, so I am safe).
The only odd thing was in order to get close to the 40 degree throws in the manual, I had to run all servos at 125% - they all work fine at that setting. No binding or warping seen so far during test throws. These HD-1810MGs from HobbyKing are very nice - plenty of torque to run this model's control surfaces!
Linkages are made with Sullivan clevices, and 2-56 threaded rods. Very secure, easy to adjust, and solid. The HD-1810MG servos have plenty of torque for this plane.
Pix below. Almost done!
Final test fit of the cowling prior to adding mount screws, and the plane looks VERY nice, if I do say so myself! Below are two shots of the plane minus wings (easier to finish electronics layout without them on the plane for now), showing the vane system and prop as it will appear when I am done.
A static motor test the other day on the RCTimer 3536-6 1250Kv, 500W motor running the MAS 11x7 3-blade prop had around 330W peak on WOT with a nominal (not fully charged) battery, running just under 37Ap. 50% ran around 130W at 11.6-11.7A. well within the capaibilities of this 3S system, and some room for tolerance on the power system (ESC is Turnigy 45A/55Ap unit, so I am safe).
The only odd thing was in order to get close to the 40 degree throws in the manual, I had to run all servos at 125% - they all work fine at that setting. No binding or warping seen so far during test throws. These HD-1810MGs from HobbyKing are very nice - plenty of torque to run this model's control surfaces!
Linkages are made with Sullivan clevices, and 2-56 threaded rods. Very secure, easy to adjust, and solid. The HD-1810MG servos have plenty of torque for this plane.
Pix below. Almost done!
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Side view of fuselage - cowl final test alignment and fitting before securing on the plane. Vanes look great! -
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Frontal view of the 11x7 3-blade, and cowl/vanes! The vanes add a great scale look to the plane without reducing much airflow. Plenty left for cooling... -
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Wing servo details: Connecting rods are made from 2x Sullivan clevices, and 2-56 threaded rod. Easy to setup throws, and very solid. -
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Elevator linkage: same setup as all servos; solid and secure! horns drilled out to 1/8" to accomodate clevices.
Gear done, motor mounted, ESC ready!
Just finished on Sunday my gear fitting onto the fuselage, and the ESC wiring. I'll be doing a static run on the power system before putting it into the plane, and a servo test before mounting the control horns on the plane. Then, it's pretty much ready to fly!
Too bad it's way to cold to maiden yet. This puppy may have to wait until new years.
The stock gear is too narrow and short to look scale, IMO, as said before - this turned out perfectly!
see pix below. The Yak 55 is really coming together now! I can't wait to finish her...
SkyCadet
Too bad it's way to cold to maiden yet. This puppy may have to wait until new years.
The stock gear is too narrow and short to look scale, IMO, as said before - this turned out perfectly!
see pix below. The Yak 55 is really coming together now! I can't wait to finish her...
SkyCadet
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New gear on fuselage showing stance and height. Much more stable wheel stance for graound handling. -
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Side view. Prolite 2.25" wheels on CF gear - axles are Elfite's 20-300 10 ARF Ultimate axles to minimize weight and reduce compromising the CF gear's axle strength (3/16" holes versus 1/4-5/16" with most screw-on axle types).
Motor JUST fits...
I just finished mounting the motor inside the mount. VERY close tolerance, and not much room for error. The motor shaft is sqaure and centered.
I test fit a plate on the collet (not my spinner plate I'll be using, but a spare one to evaluate clearance and fit. Below are a couple of pictures showing the cowling, shaft, plate, prop, and vanes - PERFECT fit.
Also, I will have to shave ~1mm off my new CF mains struts to fit into the slot on the plane, otherwise, VERY nice fit. Pix of comparision sizes below, too.
SkyCadet
I test fit a plate on the collet (not my spinner plate I'll be using, but a spare one to evaluate clearance and fit. Below are a couple of pictures showing the cowling, shaft, plate, prop, and vanes - PERFECT fit.
Also, I will have to shave ~1mm off my new CF mains struts to fit into the slot on the plane, otherwise, VERY nice fit. Pix of comparision sizes below, too.
SkyCadet
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Test fit of the cowling on vanes and with prop - A PERFECT FIT!!! -
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Side view showing slight down angle... -
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Side angle, spare spinner plate clears the front vane plate perfectly! -
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HK CF gear strut - VERY nice product for $17... -
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Side by side comparison of the stock aluminum and new CF mains struts.. -
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This could not get any closer to stock size! Only ~1.5mm too thick to fit, so I have to shave some off to fit into the fuselage.
While waiting...
I recently picked up a version of RealFlight6.5...
I found a Yak55 electric that I moded and set color scheme to match the plane I am building. I estimated what the plane will do when flying, and even if my Yak does 80% of what this one can do, I'll be pretty pleased!
And sure enough, Friday, the motor and CF gear came in!!!
I have to trim some material off the inner mount plate to fit the 1250Kv RCTimer motor. But, it looks like it will fit! The CF gear struts are awesome! They'll fit just perfectly!
Below is a ~2 minute RF6.5 video of me trying my hand at some crazy aerobatics with the Yak55! Shot with my iPhone off the screen...
This particular airframe is 40% larger than the ZH Yak. FYI...
Enjoy, and stay tuned!
SkyCadet...
I found a Yak55 electric that I moded and set color scheme to match the plane I am building. I estimated what the plane will do when flying, and even if my Yak does 80% of what this one can do, I'll be pretty pleased!
And sure enough, Friday, the motor and CF gear came in!!!
I have to trim some material off the inner mount plate to fit the 1250Kv RCTimer motor. But, it looks like it will fit! The CF gear struts are awesome! They'll fit just perfectly!
Below is a ~2 minute RF6.5 video of me trying my hand at some crazy aerobatics with the Yak55! Shot with my iPhone off the screen...
This particular airframe is 40% larger than the ZH Yak. FYI...
Enjoy, and stay tuned!
SkyCadet...
| IMG 0339 (0 min 0 sec) |
Servos installed, RX tray and fuselage gear reinforcements/tinting done!
I finished installing the servos, into both the wings and tail. Ran a 12" extension on the servos in the tail, and will be using HK servo wire clips on the wings so that a Y harness can affix the wing servo connections.
Also paint-tinted the outer fuselage front and epoxied the RX tray onto the rear runner behind the battery tray.
I used CF rod/1" balsa blocks on the mains for reinforcement, pictures shown below... Now, just motor, setting the horn throws, and then connecting the electronics!
SkyCadet
Also paint-tinted the outer fuselage front and epoxied the RX tray onto the rear runner behind the battery tray.
I used CF rod/1" balsa blocks on the mains for reinforcement, pictures shown below... Now, just motor, setting the horn throws, and then connecting the electronics!
SkyCadet
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Front view of fuselage: outer firewall tinted to match fuselage, when cowling put on... -
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Epoxy-reinforced gear (mains) structure using epoxy and CF rods, plus 1" balsa blocks... -
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Another view, also showing epoxy-graphite on inner walls of fuselage where wing tube insert is and RX tray...
Mains reinforcement and slots for servo wires (wing)
I finished up the enhancement for the gear in the fuselage (mains) and some slots in the fuselage to permit the wing servo wires to be attached.
I used 1/32" ply and used CA to affix between the runners just aft of the main wing mount. I then cut a 1/2" slot, just wide enough to permit the servo connectors to pass through. The ply will provide a guard against wire pulling out during assembly, and also some protection on the siding (which is Monokote). I also used a small bit of clear monokote over the slot to strengthen it from ripping or running, just in case
Oddly enough, no slots or anything was on the model! Not even in the manual! Must be a quirk...
My gear mains are reinforced using two 1/8" CF rods running between the two main runners holding the gear mount, affixed with epoxy. I also took care NOT to have epoxy make its way into the blind nuts, so that when my CF mains arrive, these can be put on in lieu of the stock kit gear. Two 1" x 3/4" balsa blocks were also placed between the small runner struts above the CF rods, epoxied as well. This will be much stronger than stock, and the balsa is mounted with the grain running vertical for strength.
I'll shoot some pix tonight, as I am wanting to also paint the inner firewall, and RX tray. I was sort of tired last night, and did not do too much on the plane other than those two little things.
Stay tuned! Motor, spinner, and CF gear due to arrive any day!
SkyCadet
I used 1/32" ply and used CA to affix between the runners just aft of the main wing mount. I then cut a 1/2" slot, just wide enough to permit the servo connectors to pass through. The ply will provide a guard against wire pulling out during assembly, and also some protection on the siding (which is Monokote). I also used a small bit of clear monokote over the slot to strengthen it from ripping or running, just in case
Oddly enough, no slots or anything was on the model! Not even in the manual! Must be a quirk...
My gear mains are reinforced using two 1/8" CF rods running between the two main runners holding the gear mount, affixed with epoxy. I also took care NOT to have epoxy make its way into the blind nuts, so that when my CF mains arrive, these can be put on in lieu of the stock kit gear. Two 1" x 3/4" balsa blocks were also placed between the small runner struts above the CF rods, epoxied as well. This will be much stronger than stock, and the balsa is mounted with the grain running vertical for strength.
I'll shoot some pix tonight, as I am wanting to also paint the inner firewall, and RX tray. I was sort of tired last night, and did not do too much on the plane other than those two little things.
Stay tuned! Motor, spinner, and CF gear due to arrive any day!
SkyCadet
Looking like a Yak 55 now!!!
Just finished the wing hinges and aileron mounting...
This model is a bit bigger than I thought it was going to be, but that's just fine by me! It is a nearly-ideal size as a general park flier and field plane without being overly cumbersome. I like it!!!
However, I realized when putting the wings on, the manual does not have accomodations for the servo wires for the wings to go through the fuselage!
No big deal: just some 1/32" ply inner wall with slots, cut the covering to make a small slot for the servo wires, and we're golden! Also need ot mount my RX tray (kit also did not have one per se, but an easy fix as per my previous blog comments 2 posts ago).
I also want to reinforce th emains inner walls a bit with some balsa to give th eplane a bit more strength there anyway, so I will be doing this while still awaiting the motor, spinner and mains CF replacement...
Pix below... looking to be not too much more to do, other than the servos mounting and control horns.
SkyCadet
This model is a bit bigger than I thought it was going to be, but that's just fine by me! It is a nearly-ideal size as a general park flier and field plane without being overly cumbersome. I like it!!!
However, I realized when putting the wings on, the manual does not have accomodations for the servo wires for the wings to go through the fuselage!
No big deal: just some 1/32" ply inner wall with slots, cut the covering to make a small slot for the servo wires, and we're golden! Also need ot mount my RX tray (kit also did not have one per se, but an easy fix as per my previous blog comments 2 posts ago).
I also want to reinforce th emains inner walls a bit with some balsa to give th eplane a bit more strength there anyway, so I will be doing this while still awaiting the motor, spinner and mains CF replacement...
Pix below... looking to be not too much more to do, other than the servos mounting and control horns.
SkyCadet
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Views: 151
Starting to look like a Yak55 now!!! Getting ready for final setup in no time... -
Views: 125
I left the motor vanes out for this test fit. Just need the motor and spinner to finish front end, and servo install on wings tail to complete the plane! -
Views: 107
Stock gear are not large enough IMO, so I am very glad that the CF set from HK is due any day! Much better stance and clearance...
