Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
djdavies83's blog
Posted by djdavies83 | Jan 26, 2012 @ 04:32 PM | 3,200 Views
Brief
Modify a cheap helicopter to send a draw wire (in this case fishing gut) under the floor from one side of a hall to the other as quickly as possible.

Job specifics
Tomorrow I'm helping my father run the "loop" for an induction loop amplifier under the floor of a small theatre type hall in a local church, it has wooden beams that run across the room, there is very little space under the floor an the dwarf Walls that (run length ways and) support the beams are only a couple of feet high, they also have no breaks in them that would allow me to crawl across the room under the floor. I think there are about 5 dwarf Walls about 3 feet apart.

To get The two width ways parts of the loop from one side to the other I have to feed a sectional screw together drain cleaning rod and push it between the beams and over the top of each fears wall, sounds simple enough right?

WRONG! it took me an hour to do one of the two width ways runs, the tip of the rod kept drooping and hitting the side of each wall rather than riding over the top as I had hoped, also as it a well used bit of kit (used for it's intended drain clearing purpose) each section is bowed slightly, thus far it has been a nightmare and I want a faster done in one! solution.

The idea

A while ago I inverted the blades of my first S107 so that it could fly upside down just for the fun of it....

S107 inverted "top gun" style (0 min 10 sec)


As you can see at the start of the...Continue Reading
Posted by djdavies83 | Jan 17, 2011 @ 07:43 PM | 3,814 Views
My last blog entry said "see you in the future" basicaly I had become so hooked on this forum, checking in every 15 mins or more with my iPhone it had become a bit of a problem. Going cold turkey only lasted about 12 days when I had planned at least 28, So I'm back but not totaly up to speed on a number of threads like the S107 Speed mods and the S107 thread it self will take me hours to catch up on as it such high traffic, I may have to in subscribe from that one.

Anyway the reason for this blog entry is to bring attention to my new thread idea, http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1373690 please view comment and vote.


If anyone reading this is in the "Syma s107 Helicopter" thread please link my new thread there (assuming someone has not done so already), if I do it I will lose the "see first unread" link, As I said, I've got alot of catch up to do in there.
Posted by djdavies83 | Jan 17, 2011 @ 06:56 PM | 3,756 Views
My last blog entry said "see you in the future" basicaly I had become so hooked on this forum, checking in every 15 mins or more with my iPhone it had become a bit of a problem. Going cold turkey only lasted about 12 days when I had planned at least 28, So I'm back but not totaly up to speed on a number of threads like the S107 Speed mods and the S107 thread it self will take me hours to catch up on as it such high traffic, I may have to in subscribe from that one.

Anyway the reason for this blog entry is to bring attention to my new thread idea, http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1373690 please view comment and vote.


If anyone reading this is in the "Syma s107 Helicopter" thread please link my new thread there (assuming someone has not done so already), if I do it I will lose the "see first unread" link, As I said, I've got alot of catch up to do in there.
Posted by djdavies83 | Dec 27, 2010 @ 05:02 AM | 4,212 Views
Hi guys, in short, I'm going offline for a while, I may drop in now and again but for now atleast, it's been fun and I'll see you guys in a little while.
Posted by djdavies83 | Aug 20, 2010 @ 04:19 AM | 6,519 Views
A few months ago I threw a wire cuttter together to test out the ideas and information I had gathered on the subject.

Here is my first version


It worked better than I expected but I had to dismantled it for a number of reasons, here are the main two, It was not insulated and so it was unsafe and the dimmer switch had to go back on the wall before the girlfriend realised I borrowed it.

When doing a yard run at work I found an electric junction box that was discarded by builders refitting a shop, This box was the perfect size to house the guts of my wire cutter.

Here is a basic how to guide on building a simple hot wire cutter from parts that are easy to get from most D.I.Y. stores.


DISCLAIMER although most people in these threads will know what they are doing I would say that if your not confident with electrics and HIGH voltage this is not a project for you, I will not be held liable for any loss, damage, injury or death how ever so caused.

Step 1. Gather your parts.
  • Coat hanger or similar bow shape
  • Ni-Chrome resistance wire 26SWG
  • Terminal blcoks
  • Low voltage (12V 5amp/60VA) lighting transformer
  • 1G dimmer switch (prefferably push on/off)
  • Switch (optional)
  • 1.5mm or higher main cable and plug
  • Project box to house it all in

Step 2. Prepair parts.

Remove the dimmer unit from its facepalce and make holes in the project box

do this by pulling the knob off the front and unscrewing a nut behind it, the size and location of the holes in the box will vary...Continue Reading
Posted by djdavies83 | Jul 18, 2010 @ 10:43 AM | 6,584 Views
Blog

Here's the wire cutter prototype I made a few days ago...


WARNING - This wire cutter was made to test the information I found on the subject, it is not properly insulated and is very dangerous and should not be copied! I will make a safer final version and post a how to on it here once I have tested it.



DIY variable heat hot wire cutter (0 min 28 sec)


The parts
  • 12-18 month childs coat hanger
  • Ni-Chrome resistance wire 26SWG
  • Terminal blcoks
  • Low voltage (12V 5amp/60VA) lighting transformer
  • 1G dimmer switch (prefferably push on/off)
  • 1.5mm or higher main cable and plug

The NiCh wire is held taught between the two points of the coat hanger by the terminal blocks and is attatched to the 12v output of the transformer, the dimmer switch that would normally dim the bulb is used to control the temperature of the cutting wire and the black in-line switch allows the setup to be turned on or off without having to find the right place for the heat setting again but this is not needed if a push on/off dimmer is used.

I won a 1G rolled brass dimmer on eBay for the starting bid of 99p with free p&p! When it arrived I opened it to find this...



they sent a 3G by mistake, as it was a clearence item it was ok, so as I only need the unit and not the faceplate, SCORE! now I have 3 units or 99p.