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Posted by Sandancer | Oct 12, 2010 @ 11:36 PM | 12,161 Views
P 47 JUG Tail Wheel (1 min 14 sec)


I have to admit this mod took me some time to complete, as I debated back and forth how I was going to do it?

Because I am using the FMS/PZ E-Tracts for the mains, I wanted to use the same unit for the tail wheel. What I opted for was the HK/PZ E-Tract with the smaller base plate because first, I was going to be making my own mounts, & second, it's much easier to turn a 4mm round leg then shape a 5mm square leg.

Because of the room this assembly needs for clearance I decided to go against scale and have the tail wheel retract forward. Once I started cutting foam, everything I was trying to accomplish became much easier.

One thing I thought I would have to sacrifice was the forward vert. stab. mount? For now I was wanting to keep the option of removing the vert. stab./elevator assembly in case the need arose. I was able to come up with an idea to achieve this by simple cutting the forward mount off and devising a my own with a 3mm T-nut and a brace glued to an upper ridge.

Of course I was going to make some bay doors! I used the same technique for these as I did on the Mustang....Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Oct 12, 2010 @ 09:21 PM | 11,202 Views


FMS overlooked this one!

One nice attribute to the nose of the P-47 is the Waste Gate for that massive Pratt&Whitney 18 Cly. Wasp engine! So I decided I'd build my own.

UP-DATE 10/21/2010: I wasn't satisfied with my original idea for the Oil Cooler Vent and Deflector shield, so I went back to drawing board and come up with something a bit more scale....Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Sep 19, 2010 @ 10:10 PM | 15,419 Views


This shows how I made an adapter so I could fit the stock FMS 4-Blade prop to a the SK 5055-580kv motor.

I turned my own Domed Spinner out of some 1 1/4" aluminum stock. I tapped it with 8mm x 1.25 threads so it would screw on the C42 prop adapter. Unfortunately the C42 prop adapter that comes with the SK 5055-580 motor has a shaft that is only 30mm long. This is not long enough to fit thru the FMS 3-Blade, so I made my own 40mm x 8mm prop adapter.

I now have the option to use my own spinner or use the VarioPROP 1201.

UP-DATE 1/12/2011: There seems to be some confusion pertaining to the TGY prop adapters fitting the various FMS prop configurations. I've added some pics to illustrate the different prop adapter to prop combination's.

UP-DATE 1/23/2011: I received the *NEW* FMS 4-Blade hub and blades, and after prepping them I thought I would see how that looked on the P-47?
The hub and spinner are plastic so time will tell if they hold hold up, but the assembly does visually look pretty good!

Upon prepping the blades with the Hamilton Standard Logos and ID numbers I did notice another contribution I seemed to have made to the on going development of the FMS line of Warbirds! I'm so proud!!...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Sep 18, 2010 @ 06:54 PM | 13,734 Views


Okay! With the motor centered and the Cowl mod completed, I needed to find a 4-Blade prop for the Jug.

The only viable solution I could find was the VarioPROP by Ramoser.

I must say, this thing is Kewl! You can adjust the blade pitch to suit your needs for whatever application you desire. Although not scale because of the spinner, I could run this on the P-51 if I wanted too. It comes with a gauge, pointer and ball headed hex driver to aid in the pitch adjustments. Blades and spinners are extra, but blade replacement is reasonable.

What I have is the 4-Blade 12C adjustable hub suitable for an 8mm prop adapter. The blades recommended for my application with the P-47/580 motor was the 13 x 9 #353-12 (I said 352-12 in the video). These 13 x 9's actually measure 14" from tip to tip. The Dome Spinner is the #1201 aluminum spinner which attaches to the prop shaft with a 3mm countersink tap screw. Because the 580 prop shaft would have to be drilled and tapped to accept this screw, I decided to stick to my SAE standards and went with a 6/32" SS countersink button head set screw (I also have a lot of these in stock)!

TIP:
If you should decide you want to go with a 2-Blade set-up, simply remove 2 of the blades in the 4-Blade hub. With a range of 10" to 15" blades in both "Speed" & "Scale" in the 12C hub, the options are wide open to whatever application you would want to try! Just keep in mind that...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Sep 18, 2010 @ 05:40 PM | 11,594 Views
I noticed while doing the Cowl mod how severe the motor mount was out of alignment.

To correct this I made a wider firewall mount for the SK 580 motor mount so I could move the whole assembly 1/4" to the left (facing engine), and still be able to use the 2 screw holes on the right side of the firewall. Because I already had the 2 dg. thrust built into the mount, it was simply a matter of moving the mount to the left.

Once done, the prop shaft now exits the engine compartment dead center.
Posted by Sandancer | Sep 18, 2010 @ 04:14 PM | 12,665 Views


I just couldn't adapt to that "Picket Fence" looking thing FMS was calling their WASP replica, so I set out to try and come up with something better!

My first attempt was a 3 1/2" vacuum formed replica of the Pratt&Whitney 18 Cyl. WASP engine, but I found it to be to small! So I then tried the 4 1/2" replica and it was to big! A 4" would be just right, but I haven't been able to find one, so I got my trust scissors out and made the 4 1/2" fit!

I knew this experiment would get costly if I continued to order these vacuum formed replicas, so that directed me in another direction....vacuum forming my own! I am still in the learning process, but until I get it right, what I have now will have to do.

I also wanted to make an air duct to sit below the engine. I took a piece if 1/2" balsa and started cutting, carving and sharpening it to what I wanted. Once I got the mold/buck/plug, whatever you want to call it, to where I wanted it, I had to cast a mold, and then used 2 part epoxy resin to make the finished duct. I'm not going to get into all of that for now, I'll just let these pics illustrate what I've come up with so far, and I'll update later.

One annoying thing I did notice while I was trying to complete this mod was the radical off-set FMS has incorporated into the motor mount placement of this plane. I solved the issue by relocating the motor mount on the firewall. I have more info on that mod in the...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Sep 18, 2010 @ 02:46 PM | 14,072 Views
The PZ 15091/514 E-Tracts with the Aluminum 40-120 P-51 Struts.


P-47_Landing Gear_3-05-2011 (2 min 34 sec)



UP-DATE 10/02/2010: I received the HK/PZ E-Tracts yesterday, and decided to see what changes I could achieve to make them work with the P-47?

UP-DATE 11/30/2010: I have the 3" Robart Goodyear ribbed tires with the scale 8-Spoked wheels installed on the Jug. I had to grind off about 1/16" from the VQ strut to assure clearance against any potential tire rub.

UP-DATE 2/13/2011: I have decided to take a new direction on both the E-Tracts and the struts on the JUG.

Without a great deal of modifications I was able to fit the PZ 514s in the wing sockets quite nicely. I made a couple of mounting plates out of 3/16" ply, and used the 2 outward attachment pins to anchor the plates in nice and tight while the epoxy cured. I cut a couple of shims to give them a bit of forward rake and that was it.

I've had a pair of these 40-120 Class Offset Oleo Struts for P51 Mustang from RC Skylite for quite some time now, and I thought the JUG was a perfect candidate for them. Although they are listed for the P-51, the wheel offset is not scale for the Mustang. But!....I got to thinking, the JUG retracts the LG with the wheels first in to the wheel wells! Sure enough, with the Robart Goodyears attached, they retracted nice a flush in the wells. The 5mm strut legs fit perfect in the 514s so everything was coming along nicely....Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Sep 18, 2010 @ 12:56 PM | 12,050 Views


PRODUCT UP-DATE 9/23/2010: It was brought to my attention that the black wing joiner rod is in fact fiberglass, and NOT Carbon Fiber! To check for yourself, use an ohm meter. CF is conductive, fiberglass is not!

I am discovering many issues with the wings, so I'm sure as the build goes on I will be up-dating this page!

There are 2 specific ways to secure the wings to the fuse, but neither Nitro or FMS devotes very little info on either procedure, so I've posted them along with additional mods I have made.

FMS has installed 4 spar clamps in the wings to secure the black fiberglass rod in place. There are access holes in the under side of the wing to tighten the screws.
NOTE: All 4 of these clamps came off while I was doing the rod support mod. I reattached them using 2-ton epoxy, so I would suggest checking these out!

Along with the spar clamps, there is an embedded plastic plate in the under-side at the wing root. Upon further observation, there is a channel running down from inside the fuse, thru the wing root flange directly towards that plastic plate. I assume this is another way FMS incorporated a way to attach the wings to the fuse?

I made end plates to alleviate any stress on the foam where the black fiberglass rod passes thru the fuse much like I did on the P-51. In this instance I used CF, but 1/8" -3/8" ply would accomplish the same results. I also installed a 3 1/2" long K&S 7/16" x .014 brass tube...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Sep 18, 2010 @ 11:40 AM | 10,454 Views


The first thing I did was eject "Goofie"!

His replacement is the WW II American pilot.

I plan to repaint and detail the cockpit, and tint the canopy.

UP-DATE 3/06/2011: I finished up re-painting the cockpit, and just need to do the canopy tint....Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Sep 18, 2010 @ 11:28 AM | 10,375 Views
I've built my own pylons to attach my 500lb. Bombs or optional Drop Tanks on the wings.

The pylons extend far enough back that they will secure the spar/wiring channel cover in place. I haven't decided if I want to glue that cover in yet?

UP-DATE 3/02/2011: I finally got the bomb pylons finished and installed. Although I can make these pylons functional, I'm going to leave them static for the time being.
Posted by Sandancer | Sep 18, 2010 @ 11:06 AM | 10,510 Views
I didn't like the plastic tubed "machine guns" so I decided to make my own.

I know the original "Ma Duece" guns were black, but I like the way these came out!

What I did to make everything fit tight was first I cut 8 pieces of the original plastic gun tubes about 3/4" long then sanded them to fit the contour of the wing edge, that is the black lip you see. Then I cut the 8 gun barrels to scale length using 5/16" aluminum tubing. I still didn't like the size of the barrels so I took 8 pieces of 3/16" aluminum tubing 1" long, and used a small countersink end mill and a 1/8" drill bit to create the muzzle openings. Everything held together with CA Gel. I got a little counter-reaction when some glue came in contact with the black paint, but after everything cures I'll go back and clean up with some Acetone!
Posted by Sandancer | Sep 18, 2010 @ 10:49 AM | 10,359 Views
I have the wing tip Nav Lights installed.

Also have the Landing Light built and waiting install.

UP-DATE 10/21/2010: I got the landing light installed. A Landing Light would be a great way to observe orientation of the plane when in flight in addition to the wing tip Nav Lights.
Posted by Sandancer | May 14, 2010 @ 08:35 PM | 20,551 Views
This is my build of the... FMS EPO 57" P-51D Mustang "Shangri-La" / "Auntie Samantha"






...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 09, 2010 @ 01:20 PM | 15,961 Views
Main Landing Gear Bay Doors

P-51 Landing Gear (3 min 30 sec)


After reading "kusunokimasahige" (I will refer to him as "KM" for obvious reasons)...After reading KM's post on his Thunder Tiger P-51 and follow-up posts on how he installed bay doors on his TT P-51, it got me to thinking!

I wanted the doors to open on their own and not rely on gravity, so using KM's actuator rod idea and some stronger torsion springs then the ones I used on the tail wheel bay doors, I set out to see what I could come up with? Along the way I discovered other ideas, one of which uses string as an actuator. I found a PDF by Phoenix Hobby Products showing a really good example of how to build Bay Doors. My only problem with these ideas was the DSR's IC system. It is designed to stop a retract if any binding is detected. So when the wheel came in contact with the rod combined with the spring tension the retract would stop as it was designed to do.

So it was back to the drawing board and figure something else out? I found a video on YouTube showing "rotccapt's" larger balsa P-51 with operating Bay Doors and after inquiring the how-to's, the term "Sequencer" arose! With this tidbit of information it set everything in motion.

Building the hinge brackets, doors and new strut skirts and all the related supports and braces wasn't that difficult, but finding a suitable servo location turned out to be somewhat comber sum! My first...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 09, 2010 @ 02:13 AM | 17,882 Views
The DSR2-46T Titan Electronic Retracts, The Global VQ P-51 oleo struts, and The Robart 2 3/4" Goodyear diamond tread 8-spoked tires & wheels!



I already had 2 sets of the EPF DSR2-46T Titan metal gear Tricycle E-Tracts before I ever ordered the P-51. I was elated when I started the build and found that the DSR's would work out perfect with this plane! In actuality the hardest part about installing these retracts was building the re-enforced bases covered earlier in the Blog. Once they were all mounted, it was just a matter of running the wires to the controller, plugged the battery in, flipped the switch, and watched them cycle up and down! I didn't have to wire in a speed reducer, spend extra money trying to find a servo that had enough torque to run the Global VQ P-51 oleo struts, set servo throws and end points, install magnets and on & on.....! The weight is comparable to the stock retracts when you figure in the additional servo and linkage. On top of that, I'll prefer metal over plastic anytime! I figure, if and when that "bad landing" ever occurs, all I'll have to replace (if it breaks at all) will be the stainless steel strut leg!

What I will cover here is how I adapted the DSR's to both the stock struts, and later to the VQ oleo Struts.


NOTE:
The DSR-46C controller requires at least a 4.7v input to run the 3 retracts. The EPF schematic shows the need for an extra 6v battery, but all I did was run a lead off the BEC/...Continue Reading
Sticky: P-51D: Props!
Posted by Sandancer | May 08, 2010 @ 11:14 PM | 15,477 Views
Props!

UPDATE 7/16/2012: Since this page was written 2 years ago, I have since updated the aluminum/spinner combo to a more scale 3 1/2"/89mm combo from AirBorne Models.

On some versions, and depending on the chosen supplier, you will get the stock 4-Blade/Spinner combo along with a 2-Blade/Spinner combo. There has been, and IMO, will continue to be an endless debate on motor/prop combination's with this plane. After watching all the pros & cons discussed, I have settle on 2, maybe 3 prop selections.

Of course the scale 4-Blade is a 'gimme. You can't beat the sound it makes flying by 'ya!

My new VarioPROP 4-Blade on the Mustang!



The detailed stock 4-Blade prop on the Mustang.





Note: The FMS 2-Blade/Spinner combo.....the spinner, due to it's thickness, won't fit the SK 42-50 650Kv shaft adapter. By that I mean the adapter shaft is to short to accept the spinner and the prop hub with enough threads to accept a nut. To solve this little ditty, I purchased Tower Hobbies 3 1/4" Nylon Spinner & Aluminum Backing plate. It fits nicely on both the 650 and the 580 with threads to spare.

Up-Date 5/15/2010: This is the method I use to paint the Prop Tips! I use Krylon OSHA Safety Yellow #1813.

UP-DATE 6/13/2010: I thought I would post some 2-Blade options that I have on hand.

UP-DATE 8/04/2010: I just finished detailing the 4-Blade Prop with Spec. Labels & Hamilton Standard logos. See the Decal...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 08, 2010 @ 02:46 PM | 13,816 Views
The Nerve System! Electronics!



This is the Electronic set-up in my P-51.

ESC: Pentium 60A w/3A BEC
BEC: Castle Creations 10A
Reciever: Futaba 2.4Ghz R617FS
Landing Gear.............DSR2-46T Titan Electronic Retracts / Titan Tricycle Version
Quanum 2.4Ghz Telemetry System
Navigation Lights.......RC Lander / Hunter series
LG / BD sequencer.....MicroGear
14-Pin Wiring Harness...Futurlec Multiplex Header

Servos:
Elevator....................HiTech HS-82MG
Rudder/Tail Wheel......Hextronic MG 14
Ailerons....................HXT900 9g
Flaps........................HXT900 9g 1 servo reversed.
Bay Doors.................HXT900 9g

NOTE: I don't trust servo extension connectors as they can work loose, so I solder in my own lead extensions to whatever length I need. I also make my own Y-Cables, and in the case of this Mustang I made a 3 wire Y or X (what ever you want to call it) off the BEC lead into the RX. One for the DSR Controller, one for the MicroGear, and one for the Lander controller (See UP-DATES). I also installed a mini switch in the Lander lead so I can manually switch the lights on/off.
NOTE: Here is a diagram from Castle Creations showing the proper way to wire a BEC into your RX. This method applies to all BEC's, not just the CC's.
NOTE: Reverse Servos! Here is an excellent video on how to DIY reverse wire a servo. Unlike the Weller solder gun that NightFlyyer is using here, I prefer a pin tipped soldering iron for more...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 08, 2010 @ 09:07 AM | 15,066 Views
The Retractable Tail Wheel

P-51 Mustang_TailWheel Bay_2-27-2010 (1 min 24 sec)


My version3 P-51 Mustang came with the retractable/servo steering tail wheel. There has been some confusion surrounding this little "gizmo" as some proclaimed their's was not retractable, and other's figured out how to make it work. Bernhard/Beltpilot was the first to figure out that removing that little wedge would unlock the mechanism and the retracts would.....retract! He covered the mod quite eloquently starting with post #624 and continued on from there.

It seems that this version of the P-51 retractable tail wheel has become scarce since FMS is no longer supplying them with the later versions, but it is very similar to the retractable/servo steering nose wheel used on the Banana Hobby B-2 and F-117, food for thought for anyone interested.

Okay, enough on that as I didn't use mine. Instead I am using the DSR2-46 Servoless nose retract for my tail wheel retract. I simply turned it around to where the wheel retracts forward into the wheel bay, and I run the steering link up to the rudder servo. These pics will illustrate how I did it along with the bay doors I added later.



Up-Date 5/18/2010: There seems to be some confusion pertaining to the retractable tail wheel in the earlier versions, so I thought I would upload some additional pics of what the tail wheel compartment looked like. Keep in mind, I substituted the original retract with...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 07, 2010 @ 10:05 PM | 13,426 Views
Gotta' have those Navigation Lights!

P-51 Mustang Nav Lights (2 min 8 sec)


Hey, the light fixtures were already molded into the wing tips so why not install the bulbs? I know the beacon lights on the rudder and the belly are not scale, neither is the landing light for that matter, but hey, they look Kewl!

I used the RC Lander / Hunter series lights as they have the longest leads. The kit comes set-up to have the starboard/port lights blinking. I didn't like that so I y-wired them into the one back light circuit. To get the rudder light to blink I had to install an additional light to complete the blinking sequence, hence the belly light. To do this I had to rob one lead from another set of lights. For the price of these kits, that was no biggie! I made my own fixture for the landing light out of 1/2" acrylic plastic.

UP-DATE 5/18/2010:
Added here, is how I made the fixture for the oversize landing light.

UP-DATE 8/10/2010: Navigation Light Lens! I got these Lens Covers from Park Flyer Plastics.



...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 07, 2010 @ 08:49 PM | 12,452 Views
The Powerplant!



Initially I chose 3 different motors to power the P-51, and have since settled on the TGY AerodriveXP 42 SK Series 42-50 650Kv / 1150w for now.

I gave myself the option of installing the TGY_AerodriveXp_46_SK_Series_50-55 580Kv / 1580w sometime in the near future.

I also purchase the HXT_42-60_600Kv_43A, but I don't have any plans for it at this time.

I recently purchased one of the stock G&C 600kv motors, and have posted side by side pics of the 580/600/&650kv motors below.

UPDATE 6/22/2010: I have posted new pics illustrating the "MUST-DO" installation of the collet on the motor drive shaft to back op the oem C-Clip! See below!

UP-DATE 1/12/2011:
I've posted new pics to illustrate the size difference between the SK 4260-500kv, the SK 4250-650kv, and the 5055-580kv motors. I've also posted a pic of the new G&...Continue Reading