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Archive for May, 2010
Posted by Sandancer | May 14, 2010 @ 07:35 PM | 19,846 Views
This is my build of the... FMS EPO 57" P-51D Mustang "Shangri-La" / "Auntie Samantha"






...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 09, 2010 @ 12:20 PM | 15,595 Views
Main Landing Gear Bay Doors

P-51 Landing Gear (3 min 30 sec)


After reading "kusunokimasahige" (I will refer to him as "KM" for obvious reasons)...After reading KM's post on his Thunder Tiger P-51 and follow-up posts on how he installed bay doors on his TT P-51, it got me to thinking!

I wanted the doors to open on their own and not rely on gravity, so using KM's actuator rod idea and some stronger torsion springs then the ones I used on the tail wheel bay doors, I set out to see what I could come up with? Along the way I discovered other ideas, one of which uses string as an actuator. I found a PDF by Phoenix Hobby Products showing a really good example of how to build Bay Doors. My only problem with these ideas was the DSR's IC system. It is designed to stop a retract if any binding is detected. So when the wheel came in contact with the rod combined with the spring tension the retract would stop as it was designed to do.

So it was back to the drawing board and figure something else out? I found a video on YouTube showing "rotccapt's" larger balsa P-51 with operating Bay Doors and after inquiring the how-to's, the term "Sequencer" arose! With this tidbit of information it set everything in motion.

Building the hinge brackets, doors and new strut skirts and all the related supports and braces wasn't that difficult, but finding a suitable servo location turned out to be somewhat comber sum! My first...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 09, 2010 @ 01:13 AM | 17,426 Views
The DSR2-46T Titan Electronic Retracts, The Global VQ P-51 oleo struts, and The Robart 2 3/4" Goodyear diamond tread 8-spoked tires & wheels!



I already had 2 sets of the EPF DSR2-46T Titan metal gear Tricycle E-Tracts before I ever ordered the P-51. I was elated when I started the build and found that the DSR's would work out perfect with this plane! In actuality the hardest part about installing these retracts was building the re-enforced bases covered earlier in the Blog. Once they were all mounted, it was just a matter of running the wires to the controller, plugged the battery in, flipped the switch, and watched them cycle up and down! I didn't have to wire in a speed reducer, spend extra money trying to find a servo that had enough torque to run the Global VQ P-51 oleo struts, set servo throws and end points, install magnets and on & on.....! The weight is comparable to the stock retracts when you figure in the additional servo and linkage. On top of that, I'll prefer metal over plastic anytime! I figure, if and when that "bad landing" ever occurs, all I'll have to replace (if it breaks at all) will be the stainless steel strut leg!

What I will cover here is how I adapted the DSR's to both the stock struts, and later to the VQ oleo Struts.


NOTE:
The DSR-46C controller requires at least a 4.7v input to run the 3 retracts. The EPF schematic shows the need for an extra 6v battery, but all I did was run a lead off the BEC/...Continue Reading
Sticky: P-51D: Props!
Posted by Sandancer | May 08, 2010 @ 10:14 PM | 15,072 Views
Props!

UPDATE 7/16/2012: Since this page was written 2 years ago, I have since updated the aluminum/spinner combo to a more scale 3 1/2"/89mm combo from AirBorne Models.

On some versions, and depending on the chosen supplier, you will get the stock 4-Blade/Spinner combo along with a 2-Blade/Spinner combo. There has been, and IMO, will continue to be an endless debate on motor/prop combination's with this plane. After watching all the pros & cons discussed, I have settle on 2, maybe 3 prop selections.

Of course the scale 4-Blade is a 'gimme. You can't beat the sound it makes flying by 'ya!

My new VarioPROP 4-Blade on the Mustang!



The detailed stock 4-Blade prop on the Mustang.





Note: The FMS 2-Blade/Spinner combo.....the spinner, due to it's thickness, won't fit the SK 42-50 650Kv shaft adapter. By that I mean the adapter shaft is to short to accept the spinner and the prop hub with enough threads to accept a nut. To solve this little ditty, I purchased Tower Hobbies 3 1/4" Nylon Spinner & Aluminum Backing plate. It fits nicely on both the 650 and the 580 with threads to spare.

Up-Date 5/15/2010: This is the method I use to paint the Prop Tips! I use Krylon OSHA Safety Yellow #1813.

UP-DATE 6/13/2010: I thought I would post some 2-Blade options that I have on hand.

UP-DATE 8/04/2010: I just finished detailing the 4-Blade Prop with Spec. Labels & Hamilton Standard logos. See the Decal...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 08, 2010 @ 01:46 PM | 13,483 Views
The Nerve System! Electronics!



This is the Electronic set-up in my P-51.

ESC: Pentium 60A w/3A BEC
BEC: Castle Creations 10A
Reciever: Futaba 2.4Ghz R617FS
Landing Gear.............DSR2-46T Titan Electronic Retracts / Titan Tricycle Version
Quanum 2.4Ghz Telemetry System
Navigation Lights.......RC Lander / Hunter series
LG / BD sequencer.....MicroGear
14-Pin Wiring Harness...Futurlec Multiplex Header

Servos:
Elevator....................HiTech HS-82MG
Rudder/Tail Wheel......Hextronic MG 14
Ailerons....................HXT900 9g
Flaps........................HXT900 9g 1 servo reversed.
Bay Doors.................HXT900 9g

NOTE: I don't trust servo extension connectors as they can work loose, so I solder in my own lead extensions to whatever length I need. I also make my own Y-Cables, and in the case of this Mustang I made a 3 wire Y or X (what ever you want to call it) off the BEC lead into the RX. One for the DSR Controller, one for the MicroGear, and one for the Lander controller (See UP-DATES). I also installed a mini switch in the Lander lead so I can manually switch the lights on/off.
NOTE: Here is a diagram from Castle Creations showing the proper way to wire a BEC into your RX. This method applies to all BEC's, not just the CC's.
NOTE: Reverse Servos! Here is an excellent video on how to DIY reverse wire a servo. Unlike the Weller solder gun that NightFlyyer is using here, I prefer a pin tipped soldering iron for more...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 08, 2010 @ 08:07 AM | 14,630 Views
The Retractable Tail Wheel

P-51 Mustang_TailWheel Bay_2-27-2010 (1 min 24 sec)


My version3 P-51 Mustang came with the retractable/servo steering tail wheel. There has been some confusion surrounding this little "gizmo" as some proclaimed their's was not retractable, and other's figured out how to make it work. Bernhard/Beltpilot was the first to figure out that removing that little wedge would unlock the mechanism and the retracts would.....retract! He covered the mod quite eloquently starting with post #624 and continued on from there.

It seems that this version of the P-51 retractable tail wheel has become scarce since FMS is no longer supplying them with the later versions, but it is very similar to the retractable/servo steering nose wheel used on the Banana Hobby B-2 and F-117, food for thought for anyone interested.

Okay, enough on that as I didn't use mine. Instead I am using the DSR2-46 Servoless nose retract for my tail wheel retract. I simply turned it around to where the wheel retracts forward into the wheel bay, and I run the steering link up to the rudder servo. These pics will illustrate how I did it along with the bay doors I added later.



Up-Date 5/18/2010: There seems to be some confusion pertaining to the retractable tail wheel in the earlier versions, so I thought I would upload some additional pics of what the tail wheel compartment looked like. Keep in mind, I substituted the original retract with...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 07, 2010 @ 09:05 PM | 13,042 Views
Gotta' have those Navigation Lights!

P-51 Mustang Nav Lights (2 min 8 sec)


Hey, the light fixtures were already molded into the wing tips so why not install the bulbs? I know the beacon lights on the rudder and the belly are not scale, neither is the landing light for that matter, but hey, they look Kewl!

I used the RC Lander / Hunter series lights as they have the longest leads. The kit comes set-up to have the starboard/port lights blinking. I didn't like that so I y-wired them into the one back light circuit. To get the rudder light to blink I had to install an additional light to complete the blinking sequence, hence the belly light. To do this I had to rob one lead from another set of lights. For the price of these kits, that was no biggie! I made my own fixture for the landing light out of 1/2" acrylic plastic.

UP-DATE 5/18/2010:
Added here, is how I made the fixture for the oversize landing light.

UP-DATE 8/10/2010: Navigation Light Lens! I got these Lens Covers from Park Flyer Plastics.



...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 07, 2010 @ 07:49 PM | 12,112 Views
The Powerplant!



Initially I chose 3 different motors to power the P-51, and have since settled on the TGY AerodriveXP 42 SK Series 42-50 650Kv / 1150w for now.

I gave myself the option of installing the TGY_AerodriveXp_46_SK_Series_50-55 580Kv / 1580w sometime in the near future.

I also purchase the HXT_42-60_600Kv_43A, but I don't have any plans for it at this time.

I recently purchased one of the stock G&C 600kv motors, and have posted side by side pics of the 580/600/&650kv motors below.

UPDATE 6/22/2010: I have posted new pics illustrating the "MUST-DO" installation of the collet on the motor drive shaft to back op the oem C-Clip! See below!

UP-DATE 1/12/2011:
I've posted new pics to illustrate the size difference between the SK 4260-500kv, the SK 4250-650kv, and the 5055-580kv motors. I've also posted a pic of the new G&...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 07, 2010 @ 03:26 PM | 10,703 Views
The Rudder Hinge Mod

There was an issue with the early version's Rudder hinge dilapidation. I don't know if FMS addressed this issue in the later versions, but this is how I fixed mine.

I used the solid CA hinges, but upon later recommendations I switched to the Slit-style hinge as they dissipates the glue much more efficiently.

NOTE: Tom Hunt suggested I might have performed "Overkill", so maybe 3 hinges would have sufficed?

Also, you might want to check your elevator & aileron hinges as well!
Posted by Sandancer | May 07, 2010 @ 01:04 PM | 10,702 Views
"Goofie" Had to Go!



As Tony/LiCobra said in an early post "the supplied pilot looks more like the robot in "I Robot"....He has since been up-dated to a character from "Avatar"....I call him "Goofie!"

I couldn't agree more, so I followed Tom Hunt's Pilot/Canopy mod, and did the same thing. Instead of tinting the canopy blue as Tom did, I wanted a smoked effect to mine.

The WWII British Pilot. He measures 74mmW v 73mmH.

The WWII American Pilot. He measures 74mmW v 73mmH too.


The Canopy.


NOTE: While doing this mod I also repainted the cockpit with Dupli-Color Smoke, and trimmed the dash, seat & the block on the shelf behind the seat with Dupli-Color Wedgewood.

UP-DATE 10/28/2010:I found this link to a really kewl 360dg pan view from the cockpit of a P-51, courtesy of St. Clair Photo Imaging.,

UP-DATE 8/17/2010: Here is the WWII British Pilot along side his buddy the WWII American Pilot w/"Goofie" in the background.
Posted by Sandancer | May 07, 2010 @ 12:17 AM | 10,713 Views
Wing Spar Mod



After reading posts about "Taco Wings" and abnormal wing flex, I decided to strengthen mine with some Carbon Fiber.

I used a piece of .437 X .070 X 19.5" solid Flat Carbon Fiber in both wings. I purchased mine from a LHS, but you can find it on-line at Goodwinds.com product #020136

I used a couple of tools to carefully dig the channel out. One was an Exacto knife with a curved blade. I marked a line on the blade for the depth I wanted to cut, and just simply followed the old fiberglass channel. After I got the depth I wanted, I used a small flat tipped screwdriver as a chisel. With that and a pair of tweezers it was relatively easy to dig the excess foam out.

NOTE: "When using Gorilla Glue the secret is using it sparingly! It doesn't take a lot of GG when you use water as an accelerator....Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 06, 2010 @ 09:32 PM | 11,215 Views
Cowl Opening & Up-Dated NACA Duct!



I wanted as much ventilation to the ESC as I could get! I want to thank Bernhard/Beltpilot for this idea.

NOTE: On the V4 & V5 P-51's with the steerable tail wheel, there is no opening around the tail wheel for adequate air to ventilate thru the fuse and out the rear. If you do open the cowling up with out some form of exit for ventilation you might want to install a "Chute" on your pilot as he will probably make a quick exit at some point!

UP-DATE 6/08/2010: I thought I would offer up an idea for venting the air Out of the V4 & V5 P-51's. I already had these push rod guides posted for awhile now, but I have come up with a much better alternative! These push rod windows will allow more air passage while still remaining unobtrusive.

UP-DATE 8/10-2010: I decided to install a NACA Duct courtesy of Park Flyer Plastics, in the girl's nose to vent some air into the battery compartment....Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | May 06, 2010 @ 09:15 PM | 9,415 Views
PRODUCT UP-DATE 9/23/2010: It was brought to my attention that the black wing joiner rod is in fact fiberglass, and NOT Carbon Fiber! To check for yourself, use an ohm meter. CF is conductive, fiberglass is not!


Support Brace for the Carbon Fiber Rod!

I felt there should be more support for the CF rod then just the hole in the foam of the fuselage.
Posted by Sandancer | May 06, 2010 @ 07:52 PM | 9,106 Views
Access Hatch for the Wiring!

Once finished with the DSR retract mod, I set out to solve a couple more issues in the same area. I knew I was going to be GG that wing section that supports the lower half of the CF rod right behind the LG. Doing that would leave me with only one option for access to all the wiring, and that was to figure a way to secure the corner piece with out glue? I also didn't like the gap left where the servo linkage channel was, so I came up with an idea to solve both problems.
Posted by Sandancer | May 05, 2010 @ 06:46 PM | 14,069 Views
My Big P-51 Transporter! / "Auntie Samantha"! / & Decals!



This is my "BIG P-51" transporter! I don't have far to drive to get to the fairway, errrr...runway of my choice. Actually, I build these custom Club Cars as a side line.

This is my 35mph "Cruiser"!





UP-DATE 5/26/2010:
My NEW P-51D Nose art..."Auntie Samantha"

UP-DATE 8/05/2010: Decals, DECALS & MORE DECALS! Here are some proof sheets I have put together for "Miss Samantha"!

UP-DATE 8/10/2010: Here are some of the decal placements I have made to "Miss Samantha".

I make my decals with a combination of resources. Most of the lettering I set up using the Stencil std. font on my Mac. Some I acquired off the "Post scale decal" thread. That's where I found the link to those P-51 proof sheets. Some I put together using Photoshop.

I then make my own proofs and print them off on my Canon MX870 printer. Depending on what I am trying to print, I'll use either transparent decal paper or white background decal paper. On the silver background I have found that the white background paper works best. Depending on the decal, you might have to do some trimming around the edges to eliminate the white background. The ink on the transparent paper tends to be a bit translucent.

Because these are water slide decals I spray the proof sheets with 2 coats of Krylon Crystal Clear gloss #51301 to seal...Continue Reading