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Kauz's blog
Archive for August, 2012
Posted by Kauz | Aug 13, 2012 @ 03:49 AM | 6,158 Views
I built my Scout during Winter 2009/10 from scratch. She's a very good flying model and I'm absolutely pleased with her. Her wingspan is 125cm (49,2in.) and the length is 112cm (44in.). A complete build log with all technical data, a flight video and a lot of photos, shot during the various stages of construction can be found here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1264085

A few days ago I mounted my FlyCam onto the model on two different locations, the first one was underneath the right side of the upper wing and the second one directly in the cockpit instead of the pilot. In the cockpit the cam was mounted onto a servo driven platform, allowing me to film to each side during flight. Here are the videos:

Scout mit FlyCamOne² am Flügel (4 min 18 sec)


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Posted by Kauz | Aug 09, 2012 @ 05:07 AM | 6,086 Views
Like on many of my models I tried to optimize the performance of the Albatros too. The easiest and cheapest way to achieve this goal is done by exchanging the stock propeller by one from the aftermarket. Of course this will strain your battery a little more, therefore you have to check first if it's capable to deliver about 22amps static current. I'm using Turnigy 2200s with 20C and they work fine. The first propeller I was using, was an APC-E 12x6. It worked fine, had a static current of 22amps and showed a good performance with of course more thrust than the stock one. But after the first flights I didn't like it anymore because of its shape. It didn't fit the Albatros too good in my opinion. I had another Propeller at home which I wanted to give a try, a Graupner CAM-Prop 12.5x6, and it was a direct hit. It looked good and despite its larger diameter, the static current remained the same 21-22amps. But thrust of course was more and the shape of the propeller blades is now more to my likings. It also fits the scale dimensions of the Albatros a lot better. The diameter of the propeller on the full size aircraft was 2780mm, our model is in 1: 8.45 scale, which means a scale propeller should have a diameter of about 328mm. The Graupner prop has nearly 320mm diameter, so it fits the Albatros perfectly. Of course a black propeller with a pink overprint on it is not an optical highlight, so it will be worth the effort painting it like a wooden propeller and, if you want to, apply the stickers I uploaded as files in my detailing post. For comparison I attached two photos of each of the propellers, the APC first.

Frank
Posted by Kauz | Aug 04, 2012 @ 09:32 AM | 7,170 Views
The He-219 is one of my oldest models that is still in service. I built her in 1996 and she is equipped with two 400 class geared brush motors. The reduction ratio is 1:2.64, driving Aeronaut carbon electric propellers with the dimensions 8.5x6" drawing a static current of about 17amps. In the beginning I flew her with ten 1700mAh nicd cells weighing 600grs, but switched then several years ago to lipos with 2500mAh of capacity which only weigh 225grs. The overall weight of the model is now 1400grs. Compared to modern brushless powered models she lacks of course performance in top speed and climbs, but all in all she is a good to handle model with flight times around 10 minutes and a look in the air that's second to none. The geared motors in their large nacelles produce a sound that could make you believe it's real one
The Heinkel is built up of a glass- fibre fuselage and engine nacelles and the wing and tail feathers made of balsa wood. I covered my particular model with solar-tex and painted it using an airbrush.

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Posted by Kauz | Aug 02, 2012 @ 03:18 AM | 7,011 Views
One of the parts on my to-do list was the control lever for the radiator shutters. here's how I did it. Needed materials: Aluminum sheet metal, 0.5mm thick, one servo control horn with two arms and a wideness of 16mm from the center hole to the outside of at least one arm, as the other has to be cut down to the most inner hole, one 2.5mm screw with washer and nut and a small piece of scrap 1mm balsa wood. This would be enough for the lever alone, if you want to do the control rod too, you need a piece of 1mm or 1.2/ 1.3mm wire and a piece of plastic tube in which the wire fits, in addition. The photos should be self explanatory enough, but here are some hints to ease your work. The hole for the screw should be drilled before bending the aluminum sheet metal as it is much easier in this stage of work. The nut of the screw should get a drop of thread lock as you should not tighten it too much, otherwise the lever would not move any more. You could use a lock nut too, but this would look too bulky. On my model the wire for the shutters ends about in the first third of the radiator (seen from the side), gliding in a piece of plastic tube of a bowden cable which is then glued to the underside of the radiator using CA. Please keep in mind: These were the materials I was using, if the materials you have at home differ from them, you have of course to adopt your measurements.

Have fun building,
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Posted by Kauz | Aug 01, 2012 @ 08:37 AM | 7,953 Views
In mid June the Parkzone Albatros was available here in Germany. It was certain for me that if I had her at home, I would do some additional detailing and a repaint. This bird is really worth it! I want to start my overview on the things I did with the rigging. What you need is: aluminum tube from your local LHS, outer diameter 2mm, inner diameter 1mm, cotter pins 2mm in diameter and 40mm in length, you have to cut them shorter so they do not need to be that long, but my DIY- store did have only this type. And last, for the rigging itself, elastic cord used for making jewelry. It is available in different colours and on the full size Albatros these wires had a silver colour so it would be the easiest way to choose silver too. I went a different way by using black cord which I painted silver after completion. This may sound strange as it is more work to do, but when you paint your cord there will always be the black basic colour shimmering through the streaks of your paint brush, thus giving the rigging a used look as the wires aged over time, gathering dirt and grease which collected between the single thinner wires of which they were made. I divided my rigging diagram into three parts, as my rigging is made up of three parts too. The attached photos and the text within the photos should help a lot.

And now: Good luck

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