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Kauz's blog
Posted by Kauz | Sep 12, 2014 @ 09:23 AM | 2,009 Views
In August this year I sold two of my models- it was time again for something new... As I had to give away my beautiful PZ-Albatros in June, I decided to get me this aircraft once again- but this time in a bigger version. Guess I seem to be addicted to this type
The new model is an ARF one, built up from wooden laser-cut parts. It's distributed by the German company 'Robbe' and is the same model that once was sold by the Belgian company BMI. Robbe made only slight changes/improvements on the original design which seems to be from Green Models, as is visible on a laser print in the battery compartment.
I call my thread 'the third', because about five years ago I already had built this type from a Depron kit made by Kavan, followed by PZ's model in June 2012. The size increased since then
At first, here some shots of her 'ancestors' ...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Jun 13, 2014 @ 05:52 AM | 3,984 Views
From the announcement of her release to the availability in Germany, I had to wait for long eight months. But by the mid of May she was there- and only two days later I had this beautiful model in my workshop
As with all of my ARF's, this one 'needed' a repaint, as well as some minor technical modifications, too.
I will divide this build log into several steps, following in a (more or less), chronically order my progress.

It all began when on May 20th, a really large box arrived at my doorstep containing another large box of almost the same size It was a real piece of work to carry it two stairs up to my workroom
Once opened it revealed no surprises. Everything neatly and safe packed without any damages, except for a little scratch on the right hand side of the fuselage.
Typically for Dynam, the decals were supplied on a separate sheet. Only the 'Wasp' had been pre-applied in the factory. Probably because of the spherical shape of the fuselage, thus making it a little harder to apply it. A nice feature is that there were four propellers in the box, so in case of an accident you still have some spares. The size of the propellers is 10x7x3.
There are also some scale details, like the nose armament or the gunner/radio operator machine gun. And two pilot figures.
But pictures tell more than words, therefore.........Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | May 21, 2014 @ 11:35 AM | 3,326 Views
While waiting for the release of Dynams Bf-110, I had the opportunity to buy an unbuilt fiberglass kit via a German forum. The kit is from a Czech manufacturer called Peter Maissinger and is kept very simple. All you get is a handful of parts (exactly five), with no instructions or hardware, nothing. There are also no details like underwing radiators, exhaust stacks, machine guns, etc. There are just some engraved panel lines on the fuselage and the upper side of the wing.

The single parts are built up relatively light weight, except for the horizontal stab, here I had to make a new one from balsa wood which only weighs the half of the glassfiber one. I had to do this because when I had finished the model, there was no chance to achieve a proper c of g without adding a lot of weight in the nose.
Also it is very hard to mount the motors, as the wing with its nacelles is one piece and one has to find his own solution. The previous owner had already dremeled off both engine cowlings and had made two firewalls of plywood.
Although this stage of work was already done, there was still plenty of work to do. And a lot of thinking

I started the build with the wing and horizontal stab mounts to be able to screw the parts together. Into the wings leading edge I glued two 6mm carbon fiber dowels and on the trailing edge I mounted two 4mm blind nuts into the fuselage that hold the wing.
The horizontal stab is also screwed to the fuselage, using one 4mm blind nut and a single...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Jan 14, 2014 @ 09:56 AM | 4,511 Views
Bill Forresters Mosquito
When I purchased my Parkzone Mosquito, I knew I would do a repaint as I really like the paint schemes of the Mosquitos that flew in Burma during WW-II.
This is a fictitious paint scheme and also a fictitious squadron code but I was inspired by one of my favourite movies featuring one of my favourite actors- Gregory Peck- and therefore - here’s the story:

“Maj. Bill Forrester serves as squadron leader in Burma during spring 1944. His squadron is equipped with Mosquito Mk. VI Fighter-Bombers and is successful fighting against the Japanese Army, when they are ordered back to Europe immediately.
To gain supremacy in the air, the R.A.F desperately needs a special unit that has to fulfil special tasks to support daylight raids over Nazi Germany. Time schedule is very tight so after the aircraft arrive in England there is no time to give them a complete repaint in the standard daylight fighter colours. Everything remains as is, only the invasion stripes are applied and the roundels are adopted to the European theatre.
A few days later Bill Forrester and his brave men are back in combat again.”

The movie in which Maj. Forrester appears is called “Flames Over Far East” (it’s the translation of the German title) The book after it was filmed is called ”The purple plain”, which is also the original title. In this movie you can see some great looking (real) Burma Mosquitos and I loved it ever since I was a...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Dec 19, 2013 @ 09:18 AM | 5,624 Views
In November/ December a German dealer sold the Dynam Tiger Moth for a good price. Loving biplanes I had to pull the trigger on this beautiful model.
Before it arrived at my home I was thinking about a complete repaint as I have done so often in the past to many of my models, but this time I was really surprised with the factory applied paint: very even, clean and what I like most: matte! I know, the full size aircraft wasn't but being a warbirdlover, I like aircraft and their models being matte painted.
So I left everything as it was and gave only the cowling a coat of black paint and painted the spinner red.
Prior to to the assembly of the Tiger Moth I did some minor technical and cosmetically changes on her.

As I'm using bigger batteries than recommended, I had to enlarge the battery compartment by cutting foam from the sidewalls to accommodate the 4S-3000 mAh batteries that I have. I also had to cut some foam from the battery hatch as it hit the battery and therefore couldn't be closed. The next thing was gluing a piece of a wooden coffee stirring stick into the rear part oft the cockpit/ battery hatch to ease opening against the power of the magnets without damaging the foam. Giving the landing gear more forward rake was the next point on the list and is one of the things mentioned by some of the members in the Tiger Moth thread. This will help to prevent nose-overs on rougher landing strips/ grass. Finally she got a set of better and a bit more realistic looking...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Dec 11, 2013 @ 10:37 AM | 5,755 Views
As I was asked frequently by some People how I did my repaint of my Albatros, I will post the complete thing now.
It's the same as I have posted before in the Albatros thread but now gathered in one single "story".

July 1917..

...the Albatros DV was introduced into service. July Albatros is ready to be introduced into service too...finally After two weeks of constant work with an estimated 80+ hours, it's time to show what came out in the end. I want to start with the profile of the aircraft I tried to recreate and some histrical facts about her pilot. His name is "Otto Fuchs", Fuchs is pronounced like "looks" with an F instead of an L and means "Fox" in english.

Otto Fuchs was born on March 7 1897 in the then Bavarian Frankenthal (Pfalz). After completing high school he started to work as a one-year volunteer for military service and came as a volunteer Feldartillerist (Field Artillery) to the front. Fuchs 1916 then assigned to the Air Force. He completed his flight training at the pilot replacement section #6 (FEA 6) in Tournai, and then went to the field plane division (A) 292 (FAA 292), led by Lt. Franz Hailer and then to Fighter Squadron 30 (Jasta 30), then lead by Hans Bethge. According to the federally-oriented transformation of the Air Force, Otto was a sergeant in the Jagdstaffel 77b (Jasta 77b) which operated near Habsheim / Alsace and later saw duty in the spring offensive on the Somme in 1918. The...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Dec 11, 2013 @ 10:20 AM | 4,842 Views
In September 2009 I purchased my kit of the PT-17. Within the first weekend I had my maiden and fourteen flights with more than two hours in the air. I became literally addicted to this model.
The equipment is as follows:
Motor: Fusion 3551\04, 930kv weighing 183grs. complete with prop Adapter

Battery: Zippy 3S\4400 mAh, Its too big but the next smaller size I have are only 2200s so I have to use these instead.

ESC: Hype 40Amps. BEC

Prop: G-Sonic 12x8 (Graupner)

Current draw with this setup is around 28-30Amps at full throttle but I'm able to cruise around with very little throttle input and a little elevator applied at about 10-15mph- if wanted! At full throttle she almost climbs vertical.
I did some modifications, as there are: changing the heavy pushrods and installing 2mm Bowden cables, lighter servos on all four positions, shifting rudder and elevator servos a little more forward and at last, I changed the heavy steerable tail wheel assembly into a fixed one which weighs less. Despite of all these changes I had to add 70grs. of lead to the inside of the cowl to achieve a proper C.G. which is at 3 1\2".

One other thing I did on her, was to dremel three holes of about 1\2" in diameter in the lower portion of the cowl, right between the lower three cylinders of the dummy engine. They remain almost invisible, unless you take the model in your hands to search for them but they supply cooling air to the ESC which in my opinion is much more...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Sep 07, 2013 @ 11:12 AM | 4,455 Views
I bought my 190 in spring this year and like all my ARFs I couldnt leave her untouched too. I gave her a complete repaint of the upper surfaces in RLM 70/ 71, as I like this combination very much. The markings she wears assign her to Hauptmann (Captain) Alfred Grislawski. He flew her while serving as Squadron leader of 1./ JG 1, stationed at Lippspringe in January 1944.
The red band around the fuselage, the yellow chin and the squadron badge are historical correct, as is the Werksnummer on the top of the vertical stab. The number on the fuselage of course is wrong. It should be a White 9 instead of the Red 8, but my spray gun gave up its ghost and so I had to use the sticker supplied by FMS until I get the chance to continue my work to completion. This is also the reason why she still lacks any kind of weathering, except for the soot at the exhaust openings.
I also removed the factory applied stickers from the trim tabs on all control surfaces, then first painted them white as a base coat and afterwards red to give the colour a brighter appearance.
To ease and speed up assembly on the flying field, I soldered all the leads from the servos and nav lights onto two MPX-connectors. I did this with success on my FMS P-51 and HH Hurricane before and never had any issues. I like this model very much and Im looking forward to a (maybe?) upcoming D-version.

...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Jun 28, 2013 @ 09:41 AM | 4,479 Views
Several weeks ago I built up and test flew this model for a guy who bought it from me. As I didn't like the stock colours, I chose a paint scheme from a captured aircraft.
The Nieuport is powered by a Turnigy Park- 480 with 850kv. The Propeller is a APC-E type 12x6. On a 3- cell lipo the static current is only at 19 amps but it has plenty of power for almost unlimited verticals.
I chose this relatively heavy motor to avoid c.g. issues. The overall flying weight is about 820grs.
I added a lot of details, such as a complete dummy rigging like on my Albatros, actuator rods on the ailerons, a fuel filler cap and an instrument panel with some instruments.
I also changed the linkage of the rudder and elevator control into a full scale pull-pull setup which makes the model look much more realistic.
Here are some photos of the finished model.

...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Jan 16, 2013 @ 04:41 AM | 5,454 Views
Since I'm flying this model I always had the wish for more power. Nowadays brushless motors became much more cheaper and affordable and so I was searching for a solution to equip the Heinkel with two of them without having to do a major surgery on a ready built model. I finally found a solution that was simple to do and yet optical not to disturbing the overall appearance of my nightfighter.
The photos clearly show what I did and it was a real success
I'm using 10x6" propellers that provide a lot of thrust while having a static current of about 22Amps. She now behaves completely different and the overall performance is way better than ever. From the second flight on I had to switch to folding props, because one of the rigid propellers broke on the first landing. The diameter is now to large to use such types.
This new setup is very economic also, as I can achieve long flight times using 3-S 2200's Turnigy batteries. The first testflights lasted around seven minutes and I could recharge between 810- 840mAh's. So there's still plenty of reserve to stay longer in the air.
And now some photos of the "rebuild".

...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Oct 22, 2012 @ 03:33 AM | 8,269 Views
Ever since I was a child the Hawker Hurricane was one of my all time favourites. I built plastic models of this aircraft in different scales and the largest one was one from Revell in 1/32nd scale, but this was forty years ago. When E-flite announced their model of a Hurricane, the time had come for a rc-version but unfortunately it was way to pricey for me. Several weeks ago, an Austrian dealer started a discount on this model and reduced the price by almost fifty percent. Now I knew, my time had come and I pulled the trigger....
When the model arrived I checked the content of the package and the overall quality of the parts was very good. But on some spots there were things with which I wasn't happy too much. The two fuselage halfes weren't glued properly from aft of the cockpit back to the fin, so I had to find my own solution to fix this problem as glueing together wasn't as easy as I thought. My approach was useing a special kind of glue with which I "spackled" the gap and, after the glue had dried, painted it over in the corresponding colour. I ordered the retracts with this model as it deserves it for the scale touch, but installing them with the struts that were delivered with the retracts was a bit tricky. Therefore I ordered the pre-bent struts too which make things a lot easier. One of the major changes I did, was altering the whole drive unit. I'm flying a FMS P-51 and so I have a bunch of 4-S batteries at home but very few 3-S ones. The only ones I...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Sep 17, 2012 @ 10:10 AM | 6,683 Views
Since spring 2012 I am flying version 6 of the P-51 model and I am very happy with it. Of course, I did some modifications beforehand, as some others may have as well. Except an external 7A U-BEC and CA hinges on all control surfaces, I removed one of the elevator Bowden cable tubule since it was crooked, and stuck in a new one in such a way that the control wires did not crisscross anymore but meet in front of the servo. Because of this, the elevator linkage works a lot easier. On the wings, I replaced the linkage with carbon rods and thicker wire as well as ball links. And after the control horn of the RH aileron broke at my tenth flight, these were also replaced by quite sturdier ones. Another technical adjustment concerned merging the servo wires for an easier assembly on the flying field. On each wing panel one and a half Multiplex connectors are affixed and hence three entire sockets in the fuselage. This way, assembly on the flying field is much easier and faster.

One of the key improvements for me was the additional support of the motor mount right behind the motor, with “clamping” of the rear end shield. The distance from firewall to spinner tip is rather long with the Mustang and leaves plenty of room for vibrations. With the help of the additional support the powertrain now runs smoothly. With the original propeller the motor draws about 39 amperes. I fly my model with an APC-E 15x10 with a static current of about 30A or an APC-E 16x8 with about...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Aug 13, 2012 @ 03:49 AM | 6,183 Views
I built my Scout during Winter 2009/10 from scratch. She's a very good flying model and I'm absolutely pleased with her. Her wingspan is 125cm (49,2in.) and the length is 112cm (44in.). A complete build log with all technical data, a flight video and a lot of photos, shot during the various stages of construction can be found here:

A few days ago I mounted my FlyCam onto the model on two different locations, the first one was underneath the right side of the upper wing and the second one directly in the cockpit instead of the pilot. In the cockpit the cam was mounted onto a servo driven platform, allowing me to film to each side during flight. Here are the videos:

Scout mit FlyCamOne² am Flügel (4 min 18 sec)

...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Aug 09, 2012 @ 05:07 AM | 6,108 Views
Like on many of my models I tried to optimize the performance of the Albatros too. The easiest and cheapest way to achieve this goal is done by exchanging the stock propeller by one from the aftermarket. Of course this will strain your battery a little more, therefore you have to check first if it's capable to deliver about 22amps static current. I'm using Turnigy 2200s with 20C and they work fine. The first propeller I was using, was an APC-E 12x6. It worked fine, had a static current of 22amps and showed a good performance with of course more thrust than the stock one. But after the first flights I didn't like it anymore because of its shape. It didn't fit the Albatros too good in my opinion. I had another Propeller at home which I wanted to give a try, a Graupner CAM-Prop 12.5x6, and it was a direct hit. It looked good and despite its larger diameter, the static current remained the same 21-22amps. But thrust of course was more and the shape of the propeller blades is now more to my likings. It also fits the scale dimensions of the Albatros a lot better. The diameter of the propeller on the full size aircraft was 2780mm, our model is in 1: 8.45 scale, which means a scale propeller should have a diameter of about 328mm. The Graupner prop has nearly 320mm diameter, so it fits the Albatros perfectly. Of course a black propeller with a pink overprint on it is not an optical highlight, so it will be worth the effort painting it like a wooden propeller and, if you want to, apply the stickers I uploaded as files in my detailing post. For comparison I attached two photos of each of the propellers, the APC first.

Posted by Kauz | Aug 04, 2012 @ 09:32 AM | 7,194 Views
The He-219 is one of my oldest models that is still in service. I built her in 1996 and she is equipped with two 400 class geared brush motors. The reduction ratio is 1:2.64, driving Aeronaut carbon electric propellers with the dimensions 8.5x6" drawing a static current of about 17amps. In the beginning I flew her with ten 1700mAh nicd cells weighing 600grs, but switched then several years ago to lipos with 2500mAh of capacity which only weigh 225grs. The overall weight of the model is now 1400grs. Compared to modern brushless powered models she lacks of course performance in top speed and climbs, but all in all she is a good to handle model with flight times around 10 minutes and a look in the air that's second to none. The geared motors in their large nacelles produce a sound that could make you believe it's real one
The Heinkel is built up of a glass- fibre fuselage and engine nacelles and the wing and tail feathers made of balsa wood. I covered my particular model with solar-tex and painted it using an airbrush.

...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Aug 02, 2012 @ 03:18 AM | 7,033 Views
One of the parts on my to-do list was the control lever for the radiator shutters. here's how I did it. Needed materials: Aluminum sheet metal, 0.5mm thick, one servo control horn with two arms and a wideness of 16mm from the center hole to the outside of at least one arm, as the other has to be cut down to the most inner hole, one 2.5mm screw with washer and nut and a small piece of scrap 1mm balsa wood. This would be enough for the lever alone, if you want to do the control rod too, you need a piece of 1mm or 1.2/ 1.3mm wire and a piece of plastic tube in which the wire fits, in addition. The photos should be self explanatory enough, but here are some hints to ease your work. The hole for the screw should be drilled before bending the aluminum sheet metal as it is much easier in this stage of work. The nut of the screw should get a drop of thread lock as you should not tighten it too much, otherwise the lever would not move any more. You could use a lock nut too, but this would look too bulky. On my model the wire for the shutters ends about in the first third of the radiator (seen from the side), gliding in a piece of plastic tube of a bowden cable which is then glued to the underside of the radiator using CA. Please keep in mind: These were the materials I was using, if the materials you have at home differ from them, you have of course to adopt your measurements.

Have fun building,
...Continue Reading
Posted by Kauz | Aug 01, 2012 @ 08:37 AM | 7,977 Views
In mid June the Parkzone Albatros was available here in Germany. It was certain for me that if I had her at home, I would do some additional detailing and a repaint. This bird is really worth it! I want to start my overview on the things I did with the rigging. What you need is: aluminum tube from your local LHS, outer diameter 2mm, inner diameter 1mm, cotter pins 2mm in diameter and 40mm in length, you have to cut them shorter so they do not need to be that long, but my DIY- store did have only this type. And last, for the rigging itself, elastic cord used for making jewelry. It is available in different colours and on the full size Albatros these wires had a silver colour so it would be the easiest way to choose silver too. I went a different way by using black cord which I painted silver after completion. This may sound strange as it is more work to do, but when you paint your cord there will always be the black basic colour shimmering through the streaks of your paint brush, thus giving the rigging a used look as the wires aged over time, gathering dirt and grease which collected between the single thinner wires of which they were made. I divided my rigging diagram into three parts, as my rigging is made up of three parts too. The attached photos and the text within the photos should help a lot.

And now: Good luck

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