Other options = silicone tubing, nylon washer, using SF props, switching prop brands, not losing the precious adapters [not crashing], modding APC or Hyperion or the new GWS adapter rings or these?], sticking with 7035 props
These Park 250 rings?
Posted by gbass01 |
Mar 26, 2014 @ 02:59 PM | 1,478 Views
RCG thread mycoolrc table
Micro OrangeRx stabilized receiver article. This unit would require adapters to use with JR-connector servos
The Lemon is 4.8 grams without the case and has a remote 3-position master gain control but only one antenna. Is the single antenna a dealbreaker given I fly low and close in?
RCG OrangeRx Stabilized Receiver thread [link needed]
Open Flight Stabilizer software thread
Posted by gbass01 |
Oct 11, 2011 @ 01:57 AM | 3,019 Views
Originally Posted by A Useless Geek
Forget "spritzing with water", as you never get reliable foaming that way. The only consistent way to foam up Gorilla Glue (either variety) is to put some in a disposable paper cup, add a small amount of water, and agitate it until the stuff begins to foam.
This isn't really mixing, it's just agitation to get more of the glue surface exposed to the water. However, it is a very predictable, reliable, and repeatable technique for getting GG to foam up.
Once the glue starts to foam up immediately apply it to your work. The stuff will continue to expand unless you tape over it with painter's tape to prevent the foam from expanding too far. This is how you shape fillets, etc.
Keep in mind that the yellow stuff cures to a fairly firm surface that can be cut and sanded like EPS. The white stuff cures to a consistency somewhere between EPP and EPO, pliable and resiliant. It can't be sanded too well in that form, but it makes for the perfect material to repair EPP, EPO, and EPE planes.
It takes about a minute or so to mix it up, then you have something less than a minute to get in into place. Believe me, that foamy GG sets in a hurry. The white stuff is ready to use in a half hour. The yellow stuff is firm to the touch in less than an hour, and can be sanded and painted in less than two.
Denatured alcohol handles all the cleanup chores quite well.
I keep a variety of glues on hand to deal with specific gluing assignments. For instance, my favorite glue for unsupported vertical stabilizers on foamies is Beacon Fabri-Tac (which is the source of this whole thread). The stuff works great when it is applied right. When the plane crashes the breaks usually occur right at the glue joint. Often I can fix a cracked joint just by putting some denatured alcohol right on the joint, softening the glue, and allowing me to shove the parts back together again. Once the glue dries out the plane is rockin'.