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Posted by gbass01 | Sep 06, 2014 @ 04:42 PM | 981 Views
Foam padding

starting point
ultimate version of same
portable-ish version - this is the closest to what I want so far

A whole thread on the subject, for larger planes mostly
another holder - retention arms swivel into place - useful idea

upright holder
another version of the upright
Posted by gbass01 | Jun 18, 2014 @ 07:10 PM | 1,326 Views
Posted by gbass01 | Jun 14, 2014 @ 08:29 AM | 1,459 Views
Posted by gbass01 | Apr 28, 2014 @ 08:19 PM | 2,080 Views
SOLUTION = two of these stacked vertically fill the gap perfectly: M1x5 Viton O-Ring, 75A Shore Durometer, Round, Black, 5 mm ID, 7 mm OD, 1 mm Width (Pack of 25)

The AXi 2203/46 and 2204/54 motors have an integrated 5.5mm prop saver which fits GWS 7035 direct drive props [and the slow fly props as well].

Each new motor comes with a single 5.5mm to 7mm hat/ring hub adapter to accomodate the 7mm nut-hole on the GWS 8040 and 9050 props.

Option for replacement adapters:
old dead link
ream these M4 nylon nuts out to 5.5mm ID?
Posts 8 and 11 here are somewhat helpful
This HK knockoff motor has the same issues

Other options = silicone tubing, nylon washer, using SF props, switching prop brands, not losing the precious adapters [not crashing], modding APC or Hyperion or the new GWS adapter rings or these?], sticking with 7035 props
These Park 250 rings?

Maybe a Buna-N o-ring like this?

Glue the ring adapter to the motor? Then maybe bevel the prop hole a little with an 8mm ball head burr? so it slips off more easily on impact?
Posted by gbass01 | Apr 23, 2014 @ 06:56 AM | 1,694 Views
Posted by gbass01 | Apr 08, 2014 @ 08:27 AM | 2,391 Views
Posted by gbass01 | Apr 05, 2014 @ 08:22 PM | 1,933 Views
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...n+heat+shrink- thick vs thin wall - does it really affect weight that much?
Source of thin wall
Kapton tape - bought some, will see how it does
Posted by gbass01 | Mar 26, 2014 @ 10:29 PM | 2,293 Views
DigiKey part numbers

Posted by gbass01 | Mar 26, 2014 @ 02:59 PM | 1,642 Views
RCG thread
mycoolrc table
Micro OrangeRx stabilized receiver article. This unit would require adapters to use with JR-connector servos
The Lemon is 4.8 grams without the case and has a remote 3-position master gain control but only one antenna. Is the single antenna a dealbreaker given I fly low and close in?
RCG OrangeRx Stabilized Receiver thread [link needed]
Open Flight Stabilizer software thread
Posted by gbass01 | Mar 26, 2014 @ 11:24 AM | 1,644 Views
Posted by gbass01 | Feb 12, 2014 @ 09:18 PM | 1,988 Views
Thera-Band prop saver threadhere
Pre-cut bands - look/feel like Theraband?
EBay source of 5 foot length of Blue Thera-Band

Best method of cutting smooth Theraband circles?
An anvil razor cutter works well
Put on a mandrel and rotate against stationary razor? - DIDN'T WORK SO WELL
Hot knife?

Crochet hook for mounting saver rings onto Blue Wonder size prop savers
Does not fit the smaller AXI motors with integrated prop savers - will try a Kelly forceps with sanded edges
Posted by gbass01 | Feb 12, 2014 @ 07:52 AM | 1,995 Views
Posted by gbass01 | Sep 14, 2013 @ 09:45 AM | 2,841 Views

This is how to wire up a harness to discharge multiple UM batts with an HK Battery Medic

Sometimes the Medic seems to want extra 2S power thru the JST plug to work properly with UM batts.

This is a similar commercial product [not tested]

This is a good info source.
Posted by gbass01 | Dec 18, 2011 @ 09:35 PM | 2,414 Views
Posted by gbass01 | Nov 14, 2011 @ 10:56 AM | 2,951 Views
Another UM Nutball:
Posted by gbass01 | Oct 11, 2011 @ 01:57 AM | 3,165 Views
Pre-foamed GG:
Originally Posted by A Useless Geek View Post
Forget "spritzing with water", as you never get reliable foaming that way. The only consistent way to foam up Gorilla Glue (either variety) is to put some in a disposable paper cup, add a small amount of water, and agitate it until the stuff begins to foam.

This isn't really mixing, it's just agitation to get more of the glue surface exposed to the water. However, it is a very predictable, reliable, and repeatable technique for getting GG to foam up.

Once the glue starts to foam up immediately apply it to your work. The stuff will continue to expand unless you tape over it with painter's tape to prevent the foam from expanding too far. This is how you shape fillets, etc.

Keep in mind that the yellow stuff cures to a fairly firm surface that can be cut and sanded like EPS. The white stuff cures to a consistency somewhere between EPP and EPO, pliable and resiliant. It can't be sanded too well in that form, but it makes for the perfect material to repair EPP, EPO, and EPE planes.

It takes about a minute or so to mix it up, then you have something less than a minute to get in into place. Believe me, that foamy GG sets in a hurry. The white stuff is ready to use in a half hour. The yellow stuff is firm to the touch in less than an hour, and can be sanded and painted in less than two.

Denatured alcohol handles all the cleanup chores quite well.

I keep a variety of glues on hand to deal with specific gluing assignments. For instance, my favorite glue for unsupported vertical stabilizers on foamies is Beacon Fabri-Tac (which is the source of this whole thread). The stuff works great when it is applied right. When the plane crashes the breaks usually occur right at the glue joint. Often I can fix a cracked joint just by putting some denatured alcohol right on the joint, softening the glue, and allowing me to shove the parts back together again. Once the glue dries out the plane is rockin'.