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Posted by beladog | Feb 08, 2015 @ 11:04 PM | 2,885 Views
got one of these.
Did this.
Pulled the schim from this thread and most of my inspiration from T3chDad(Bob Tempelton) who built just an insane rig.

Mine: simple, clean and solid enough to slam around my bench.

Oh, got the Amp/Volt Meter here.
It comes with a huge Shunt which is used to disperse heat. I cut down the ends at the large bolt mounts and used a torch to tin the remaining portion of the blocks.
Then I just soldered directly to the blocks. This narrowed the width by a good two inches and allowed it to fit with plenty of room to spare.
Posted by beladog | Jan 10, 2015 @ 03:54 AM | 2,450 Views
I was lucky enough to get my hands on a beta set of Brandon's newest design.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2321373
These are pretty cool and I could not wait to strip off my bench built aluminum mounts and strap these on.

Very clever, simple design is super strong and about as light as I think you could ever make a reliable bracket.

The main plate, it's clamp plate and the screws assemble in minutes without any disassembly, add virtually no weight and provide a strong, rock solid mount for your servoless retract assemblies.
They fit the F550 frames crescent shaped cut outs and bolt through the lower frame into the arm.

I have not figured out how to format a picture into the text body so Just open the pics for the descriptions....Continue Reading
Posted by beladog | Mar 05, 2011 @ 01:04 AM | 13,768 Views
Here is an inexpensive ($40) way I use my PC's monitor as a stand alone, wireless, portable fpv monitor without making any internal mods.
The process is straight forward, requires only minor soldering and can be completed in about 1hr. Best part, you can switch it back for desktop use in about 10 seconds.

1) Find a monitor.
Most, if not all of you have a flat screen monitor by now, and if you still have a 40lb box taking up valuable desk real estate, then now is a really good time and a great excuse to go update your fifteen year old dinosaur to a sweet new flatty.
These can be had at insane prices at geeks.com, frys, Newegg.com etc etc.
here is a prime example.
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?inv...560V-R&cat=MON
Look around a bit, this was the first link I clicked.

All Flat screen LCD monitors run off 12-16V D/C and most use A/C wall adapters. This is great news!
Disconnect the monitor's cord from the wall and the monitor and cut the cable about 12" from the plug that goes into the back of the monitor. There will be two wires, either color or stripe coded for +/- and if you are not sure you can plug the socket into the wall and carefully test the bare leads with your volt meter. Wire a male Deans to the the monitor side and a Female plug on the wall end. Now you can still use the wall adapter when you want to use the monitor indoors as you would before the conversion.
Plug a 3S LiPo into the monitor's new plug and press the power button. You should...Continue Reading
Posted by beladog | Mar 04, 2011 @ 04:14 PM | 8,795 Views
I love the removable tail on my FpVz Star and thought it would be a fun conversion for the Fun Cub.

Here is how I went about it.


Perhaps the most important thing to remember is NOT to glue the tail wheel mount "plug"/"insert" into the fuse tail. This can be pressure fitted just fine and if glued will render the removable tail useless as you will not be able to remove it....Continue Reading
Posted by beladog | Oct 02, 2010 @ 03:52 AM | 9,248 Views
Instructions and tips for operating the
Hd Fpv Camera





AHD+/PRO models
1). Plug the Video (Yellow) servo connector into your video display device (i.e. Video Transmitter, OSD or adapted A/V cables provided with your camera). Take note of the wire color. Black is ground and White is video signal wire. Please make sure they match the receiving plug. Installing these backward will damage your camera and void warranty.

2). Plug the Audio (black, female housing) connector into your Audio receiving device (i.e.video transmitter or adapted A/V cable provided with your camera). Take note of the wire color. Red is Ground and White is Audio signal wire.

3).Plug the Red Power Plug into your power source (i.e. on board receiver or any 4.8V source (5VMax).

4).instal the loose "control knob" microchip into the main camera housing if it is not already installed, so it is centered on the housing.

5). Depress the small button on the end of the black twisted wires. If this is wrapped inside of heatshrink tubing, pinch with fingers until a small click is felt. At this point two Blue LED indicator lights on the small removable "control knob" chip should be lit up solid.
Pro models will have one blue led lit.


6)*. (See 6.1 below for Pro models)
Access "A/V Out" function and "ready" your camera (A-HD+ models) by pressing the control knob "Down Once", then press "In Once".
If your camera is attached to an A/
...Continue Reading