Battery. Any good 3s 850 should work. Don't even think about trying a 500mah pack. This setup pulls 20+ amps in flight there is not a 3s 500mah pack on the planet that can take that kind of current draw for more than a few cycles. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html
The first AR I built used a 12mm inrunner with a 3X3 prop which is the standard setup. Performance at my high elevation (5600 feet ASL) wasn't what I had hoped for. I got looking around and found this motor prop combo and decide to give it a shot. Performance went from ok to un friggin believable once I did that.
I have a couple of tricks I use when building and flying them. First off I take a papermate pen (has to be a papermate bic is to big around) and cut a short piece of it to act as a spacer between the motor mount and the stick fuse. I cut the motor...Continue Reading
Posted by Hance |
Feb 23, 2012 @ 09:26 PM | 3,914 Views
This is just going to be a quick first impression of the new Stunt Bipe from www.slowbipe.com . I was in Boise working so I contacted Michael about picking up a couple of the new Stunt Bipes in person. I went to pick the kits up and Michael invited me in and went over every last detail of assembling the planes with me to make sure I wouldn't have any issues.
The difference between the Slow Bipe and the Stunt Bipe is the number of channels. The Slow Bipe is a standard R/E/T where the Stunt Bipe is a R/E/A/T plane. This is done with a split elevator and one servo for each elevator half. Designing the plane this way makes it easy to setup as either 3 or 4 channels depending on what you want. If you want to use 4 channel operation just setup the plane as having elevons and you are good to go. If you want 3 channel operation there are a couple of options. With a Y harness it is as simple as setting up any 3 channel plane. With a computer radio you could also setup the plane as having dual elevators and connect one servo to each channel. Some fancy programming might also allow changing between 3 and 4 channel operation at the flip of a switch but that's way over my head.
Once I got home and started on the kits they are easy to assemble and go together in fairly short order. I did a full paint job on both of the planes and that consumed most of the time. If I had a prepainted plane I am guessing I could have it ready for a maiden flight in under an hour. The hardest part of...Continue Reading
Posted by Hance |
Dec 09, 2011 @ 12:36 AM | 4,286 Views
Ok I will try and keep this simple and clear so everybody can understand it. If anybody has any questions just ask me.
Start with a model that hasn't been used or reset your model to factory settings to make sure we don't have any old settings kicking around. Click once on the model you intend to use scroll down to copy/reset click once scroll down click on reset scroll over click on yes.
1 First step we are going to have the plane sitting in front of us and will be looking at the plane from behind.
2 plug the esc into throttle port
3 plug the right servo into the aileron plug on the rx
4 plug the left servo into the AUX1 port
5 bind the rx and test the controls. Only the right elevon should move and only when you move the stick right and left. Right stick and the right elevon should move up. If it doesn't you need to reverse the servo. (To reverse servo direction from the main screen click once scroll down to setup list and click once scroll down to reverse and select the channel you need to reverse. Aileron channel) When you move the stick up and down nothing should happen. No left elevon movement at all. If this isn't exactly what happens double check your connections. Dont worry about the left stick at all. Its happy we don't need to do anything to it.
6 Setting up your radio.
7 Click the scroll wheel once and scroll down to Setup List. Click on setup list.