Lutron Dimmer Switch (#D-600PH-DK)
Nuts and bolts, or rivets for mounting components
An old AC power cord (2 or 3 prong) with appropriate plug
Optional Parts I Recommend (also from Radio Shack)
Fuse Holder (#270-364)
Fuse (250 volt, 2 amp, #270-1023)
120 volt Neon Lamp (#272-0704)
12 foot 16 guage extension cord
2 wooden yard sticks from Home Depot paint department
4# 10-24 x 1.25" machine screws with nuts
10 # 10 washers
About 12 feet of strong, low-stretch string (i.e. 200 lb dacron kite line)
A single-pole dimmer switch. About $10 bucks at Home Depot
A 25 volt, 2 Amp transformer (2Amps for smaller size projects to up to 26 inches in lengh. More than that, you might need 4Amps). $10.49 at Radio Shack
An electric guitar string. About 0.10 - 0.16 size (guitar wire breaks).
A length of two conductor electrical wire with a regular plug on the end.
A piece of wooden dowel or stiff plastic rod about one foot long.
Posted by merlin703 |
Oct 05, 2011 @ 03:44 PM | 3,059 Views
1) Drill/cut the holes you need on the body
2) Wash the body to remove any dirt
3) Draw on the ouside the lines/shapes you need to make
4) Use liquid masking tape and apply about 3 layers on the inside and let it dry. You can use a hair blowdryer to help with the drying process.
5) With an exacto knife, cut on the inside to remove the areas that need paint.
6) When using decals, make sure they are firmly apply. You can use a credit card to flatten it. Use a hairblow dryer to make sure the decals are firm.
I don't know if you guys are interested or not but I offered this once before a while back.
I sell the 3m epoxy setup. And I'll sell it to the RCGroups guys for cost. I'm the general manager for a fastenal location and I keep most of this stuff in stock. Just trying to help some fellow addicts if I can.
Scotch Weld DP100 Clear Epoxy 1.7oz - $10.54 per tube
Gun type applicator made by Loctite - $34.96 each
Almost identical to the scotch weld one and totally interchangable
Scotch Weld 9742 EPX Mixing Nozzle - $0.88 each
Plus 5 or 6 bucks for shipping.
So, 10 nozzles, 2 tubes epoxy, 1 gun, and shipping would run you approx. $70 plus tax. This is just for reference, quantities and products ordered are totally up to you.
Also, I can tell you that I have built 2 planes with this system so far and I've only used 6 nozzles and half of 1 tube of epoxy so far. As long as you remove the nozzle and put the cap back on the epoxy when you aren't using it, it lasts a long time.
It is the weight of the plane, type of airframe and style of flying which decides what motor will work best. Manufacturers usually suggest a range of motors (weight and watts) good for a particular airframe to balance it easily.
kV of the motor is rpm/volt at no load. Higher the rpm, smaller the prop and less voltage will be required and is meant for ligher and smaller planes. Lower the kV numbers, bigger the prop, with increased number of cells and is meant for bigger and heavy models. Every motor is rated for the amount of amps, watts and number of cells. You can play around with these numbers by choosing a prop to get the maximum out of the motor in a given voltage (battery). Diameter of the prop increases thrust and pitch increases speed.
Some guidelines for watts/lb for the type of plans and style of flying:
50-70 watts per pound; Minimum level of power for decent performance, good for lightly loaded slow flyer and park flyer models
70-90 watts per pound; Trainer and slow flying scale models
90-110 watts per pound; Sport aerobatic and fast flying scale models
110-130 watts per pound; Advanced aerobatic and high-speed models
130-150 watts per pound; Lightly loaded 3D models and ducted fans
150-200+ watts per pound; Unlimited performance 3D models