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Chap1012's blog
Archive for May, 2011
Posted by Chap1012 | May 19, 2011 @ 10:11 PM | 7,196 Views
Blade balancing is easy and should be done to all of your blades before flying. Perfectly balanced blades track better, gives less vibration and best of all, fly beautiful. I'm sure there are other methods of blade balancing but, this is how I do mine.

1) You'll need an extra blade grip that matches the blades you'll be balancing. Two- 4 OZ. Dixie cups. Note the nice thin edge around the bottom of the cup (I did put a black mark on the seem of each cup...coming up). The rest of the tools are a no brainer. "Sponge Bob" cups are optional. I have been told by some (and I have tried it myself) that you can also use full cans of soda or beer. But, in all seriousness, I prefer the Dixie Cups. Refreshments can be consumed when the job is done

2) Clean up the blades by gently sanding the slag off from around the blades. Have a screw handy to check the hole for a good fit.

3) Install the blades on the blade grips and shoot an imaginary line from the two screws to the end of the blade. Tighten. This should be a piece of cake for you long gun shooters. Note in the picture, I used 1/4" modelers tape JUST to show "shooting an imaginary line."

4) Note the blade on the right is heavier. Rotate the blades from end to end to make sure you get the same reading. Now we start sanding the underside of the heavier blade being careful and mindful of the edges. Keep your strokes even and spread out. Only sand a little at a time. Wipe the sanded area with a damp paper towel in between sandings. WHY? To get rid of the static electricity that will pull that blade toward your wood workbench. Just think of it as rubbing a balloon in your hair or jersey and it will stick to the wall, etc.

And, the results

I hope this helps and as usual all comments are welcomed.

Mike.
Posted by Chap1012 | May 14, 2011 @ 03:18 PM | 7,104 Views
Well, I logged in about 10 flights since this modification of the main frame. There has been much discussion in the V4 thread about the mounting of the 4in1. Mostly the inferior holder of the 4in1 located up front. Which led many members believing that the unnecessary shaking, vibration, etc. effected the gyro. One vendor went as far as trying to develop a CF flat stock to fit on the Esky V3 which does not fit on the Esky V4 (this would be the pod and boom mount). This inspired me to create something simple to make the mounting of the 4in1 solid...to make it "part of the frame" for less shaking, vibrating and movement in maneuvers.

This is hardly rocket science. What I did was simply sandwiched the front holder of the stock frame to another stock frame. Keep or buy a stock frame. Cut the front off. Sand smooth for a nice fit to the new main frame. CA in place. Done.

In all honesty...I really think it makes a huge difference especially if you fly your Esky V4 outside. Gyro heading seems to get a much better lock, resulting in a smoother flight without a lot of rudder correction. I highly recommend this double sided tape. It is cushioned to dampen vibration to the gyro:
http://www.helidirect.com/high-quali...s-1-p-6956.hdx
(sample).