Posted by ddoucette |
Sep 23, 2015 @ 11:59 AM | 1,608 Views
I had a set of LED lights from another model I decided to install into the F-16. These add to the scale appearance but they are not scale since these were for a civilian aircraft... That said, I like how they're turing out.
I do not recommend this particular set due to the design of the controller module. There is no support for the power lead solder joints so they are very fragile. Mine actually arrived with a bad solder but I was able to re-solder the connection and add some support by looping the wire around a band of shrink.
Here you can see the Negative lead isn't even attached to the board.
This is the controller after I've re-soldered it, covered it with shrink and gave the power lead some support.
I've owned the Freewing P-51D Mustang since last year. On the first day of the flying season this year, I experienced a bad radio glitch which cost me new wings, fuselage and a slew of various parts. This first video is after I've rebuilt this Mustang and she is effectively a new plane.. The goal of this first flight is to trim out the plane at various throttle settings so hopefully you don't get motion sickness too easy.
This is a short video of a flight with my RocHobby F16 using a Mobius for a view from the wing.. This video was taken before the rudder modification. You'll notice on landing approach I tilt the plane to correct my heading (so I don't fly into my legs). That is because this model has no rudder. I'm in the process of adding a rudder and some other modifications. Once those are complete, I'll be able to get some new footage up. Until then, enjoy.
One of my favorite parts of flying is attempting scale(ish) maneuvers. Take offs and landings especially so. This makes having a rudder rather important which is why I decided to get started on it today. Since this plane already just uses foam hinges, I figured I would do the same for the rudder. First, I measured the thickness of the foam hinge on the horizontal stabilizer...
Then I compared that to the thinest portion of the rudder. The difference will tell me how much foam I can cut away safely. Yes, I took this photo afterwards but I did measure before I cut.
This means I have about 2mm of foam I can cut away at the thinnest part of the rudder.
Here you can see how I used simple painters (blue) tape and flat white paint to make these stand out. Although I used some hobby paint, that isn't necessary. I believe most spray paints will work as well...
Thanks again to P40flyer for posting his work which inspired me to paint mine as well.
Out of the box, the RocHobby F16 has an odd front landing wheel. For some reason, the front landing gear has a forward rake. Basically, the axle is ahead of the strut mount point. This results in well documented issues with landing and taxiing.
I tried to straighten out the front gear and give the wheel some rearward rake. If you have a vice, that would make this easier. I don't so I used a pair of pliers to straighten out the top portion (that inserts into the strut mount). I also used an x-acto handle to go into the spiral of the spring portion and tried to get the axle to bend further back. It looks like I was able to get the axle behind the strut mount point by about a centimeter.
Here are a few photos. It isn't perfect as you'll see. The spring does touch the fuselage so it could be better.
Posted by ddoucette |
Sep 02, 2015 @ 11:55 AM | 2,922 Views
This was a surprise for me. I wasn't sure what to expect regarding stalls from this model. I've tested it a few times now because I'm just amazed at what this thing does when you stall it. .
So to test it, I bring it up to about three mistakes high, cut the throttle and begin to pull back on the elevator and try to keep the wings level. I try to hold it at a similar angle of attack as when you flare during landings until I can pull all the way back while keeping that angle. Then watch the stall do it's thing.
I'm running a gyro (AS3X) when I did it with this F16 and I didn't know what to expect. I can tell you though, I didn't expect it to simply drop it's nose.. Perfect! I don't think the gyro helped during the stall since there isn't enough air going across the control surfaces to matter. That's why it is a stall. It might have helped though in the brief moment between stalls to keep her level until the stall repeated. Either way, dropping the nose on a stall is a thing of beauty and to do it on this edf impressed me. I also have a Freewing P51 with a gyro in it and when it stalls, you fall out of the sky like there is a brick at the end of a string tied to your wingtip. It's... exhilarating. Thankfully, this F16 isn't.
If anyone has tested their setup for stall characteristics, I'd be interested to know what your experience has been and if you also had a gyro or not.
Posted by ddoucette |
Sep 02, 2015 @ 11:53 AM | 2,916 Views
Another RCGroups user "P40flyer" posted his mods for enlarging the battery compartment. The issue he addressed was that the velcro battery strap would push up the canopy when a larger (2200mAh) battery was used. Here is the original post:
Originally Posted by P40flyer
Got my FMS/RocHobbies F-16 built and ready to go this morning. One slight mod that needed to be done was to Dremel out a portion of the canopy underside. The lipo strap interferes with it properly staying magnetically secure to the fuse (when the lipo is installed) so this worked perfectly. Not much room height wise in the battery compartment. The only thing I wish FMS would change with these edf's is use heavier diameter pushrods. They have a tendency to flex a bit. My Freewing jets have VERY heavy duty pushrods that don't flex at all. Minor complaint though. Maiden to come!
Posted by ddoucette |
Sep 02, 2015 @ 11:40 AM | 2,936 Views
Ok, so I had four 24mm x 4mm x 2mm magnets lying around. I used those to affix the wingtip missiles. They work very well and will do the same to the drop-tanks and under wing missiles too. I just bought some similar sized magnets from ebay...
If the wind lets up, I'll maiden it today or tomorrow...
** UPDATE **
You might notice in the photo that the magnets are not in contact with the missiles on. In hindsight, I think it would have been better to have the magnets on the front and rear sections as opposed to the center like I did. The magnets are very strong and have begun to squish the foam so they can tilt and connect. This makes the missiles look like they are sagging downwards on the sides.
I have found though, to correct this I can simply wedge anything lying around about as thick as I need it into the space between the magnets to keep them in proper parallel orientation. I've used stems from blades of grass. They come out if I land a little rough so I just grab whatever is handy.