Put a whole round of packs through on a great pretty much zero wind morning. Plane does indeed track very nicely. Wanted to pull up a little in downline, so moved batt back a little more. Pretty much zero coupling in KE, perhaps a very tiny amount on one side, but easy enough to mix out by hand.
Waterfall very nice, hover, as mentioned, is very good, excels at KE, and makes great IMAC type moves and pattern maneuvers if the pilot is up for it.
Blender axial, inverted flat spin nice. Excellent snaps or snap to hover etc. Totally agree with those who say this plane is excellent for getting things right and drawing pleasing lines and connecting moves. Very locked in, rigid feel. Great to fly all round
Harriers are totally excellent, upright or inverted. Very pleasing flight in harrier.
RATES: for the first time, I took my time and set up this plane with 4 rates as per Wargo's rate settings for EF MXS (he also has a more 'regular' rate setup, but I wanted to try the EF version as I plan on a 60" EF Laser some time ahead!)
1 - IMAC (incredibly small ele and rud)
2 - snap
3 - 3d
4 - tumble (full rates)
It was really great to feel the locked in feel on IMAC rates, but you have to leave enough room as ele is minimal.
I'm also moving all my rates to the left of my TX, and will add a 5th rate that will be combination that is customized to my liking.
A great time with a great model for raw 3D. Modified to Hacker A20 22L with 11 prop. This is the identical setup to what I will be installing in my upcoming Parkmaster build. Great plane for rollers, snaps and building confidence down low.
Thanks guys. It's been a lot of fun flying the AMR, and I guess I should really fly a real one now :-)
Slickx has done a great job tuning and improving the variant to match better to RealFlight 6.
He has completed the tuning (V2) and I've attached both V1 & V2 of the variant here. His tuning is based on the original variant which was designed for RealFlight G4. I have attached this original variant. Of course, this is based on the original model which comes standard with RealFlight 6 (ultimate bipe: http://www.realflight.com/aircraftlist.html)
I have also included the colour schemes thanks to JetPlaneFlyer
Slickx list the following tuning work he undertook for the new variant:
• more realistic side force simulation
• more natural hover behaviour
• tuned CG position using battery only (better tumble)
• added missing struts to physics (regained some KE & overall stability)
• increased torque effect (v2)
• faster servos (v2)
• profile vertical stab (v2)
• reduced aileron size (v2)
• breakable gear (v2)
• Corrected dimensions and placement of a few physic hulls (v2)
• Calculated the airfoils of the fuselage (v2)
• High and low rates are now the same with little inputs (v2)
• Recalculated the whole plane with fictive component weights (v2)
He has tuned it more for the wild side of 3d, and recognises the many flyers will wish for differing performance, and realises that different components and flying styles all add up to different experiences of planes on simulators and in the field.
Here is a video of the AMR model optimised for RealFlight 6.5
The author is still fine tuning, but I think you will agree, it is already flying nicely. I made the following changes to stock:
1) CG adjustment
X=0 y= -0.28 z= .28
2) Low rates used for most portions of flight
3) Low rates adjusted - travel adjusted from 50% to 75% for ch1,2,4
Excels at Crankshaft, Top Pops etc (especially with stock CG)
I am still getting used to the stick on it, but liking it very much
I should add, the biggest change for me was flying on lower rates for most flights
Start from a clean slate with all surfaces centered, and set the stock battery pack so that it half covers the holes in the front of the battery tray.
Using a deflection gauge, and make sure there is enough throw on the control surfaces of 45 degrees or more in both directions and that the travel is equal in both directions.
Take off, and trim to fly level at half throttle, and then head into the wind to trim the rudder so the plane flies dead straight.
Climb high, and kill the throttle. Just before or at stall, point the nose straight down, and take your hands off the sticks. If it starts to pick the nose up, then it's nose heavy, and the battery should slide back. If it tucks under, it's tail heavy, and the battery should slide forward. The idea is to experience power off trim/CG changes as the plane accelerates through a full range of flying airspeed. You should do this a few times with each setting, each time changing the airplane's angle to the wind if there is any.
Now trim out the knife edge pitch coupling: roll to knife edge, observe what happens, adjust the elevator mix and repeat until it's tracking straight. Do this for both left and right knife edge. As per instructions, the AMRs need to counteract a little tucking to the gear when trimmed to fly level (or straight down in this case).
Just took possession of the Mobius ready for some summer filming. First short test clip at 1080 on hatcam. Happy with default settings and colour at this stage. No effects/sharpening added. I expect this to get a lot of use shortly with three builds to complete including Multiplex Parkmaster, Crack Laser, New Crack Yak, and possibly completion of the red scheme Telink SU-29
First, I used 4 rates with my Slick and a lot of 3d planes. More the heavier ones. Ailerons get a bit too fast.
First rate is low. this is for imac stuff. Do not usually use much. THis is the one to give up if only 3 position switch. I use a dx18 and an futaba 18mz. they both have more available rates.
2nd rate is a snap rate. this is slightly higher elevator often and rudder (all are individual to the plane to make it snap well) then fast ailerons to provide the snap roll rate to look good. I fly this like my low rate on many planes. Need 3d-like expo for ailerons to do that.
3rd is 3d rates. OFten full deflection rates like on EF planes with 60 degrees of elevator make the plane look crappy in slow rolling harriers for instance and hovering. The expo at the end is just too dramatic. So I find a nice rate like 40 to 45 degrees to smooth them out. Same with huge rudders.
4th is a tumbling rate to get everything out of all surfaces when banging the sticks around.
High throw like 60 degree elevator setup. EF, or 3dhs on some. This is how I set it up. From 63" MXS
ARM - we dont recommend arm by switch - reason - it's a waste of 4 possible switch positions other than off - if you have 2*3 ways switches - use them for other stuff below ANGLE - this activates the Accelerometer - self leveling mode - (was called LEVEL or ACC before) - its a beginner mode used for hovering - we dont recommend you Fly in this mode - its designed for hovering directly above your position - where it's otherwise difficult to see small attitude changes. Its useful for FPV take off and land IF your experienced - do not use this for your first noob maiden take off as it confuse you - the acc is sensattive to 0.1° tlt and will rev the props on the downhill side like buggery until its gets its 0.1° offset sorted - its a required mode for RTH HORIZON - this is a cool new mode - when the cyclic stick is near the centre the Acc is activated - but when you want to fly fast forward or even do Acrobatic flips - then its gyros only - love this new mode! BARO - be sure to cove rthe BARO with black felt - this prevent erroneous barometric pressure waves from speed or wind and also blocks lights entering the BARO - use this mode to hold Altitude - 2.2 is the first open source release of this code to combine AccZ (G readings) with BARO info and provides a 300mm height hold in a well setup scarab MAG - Compass or heading lock - be sure you have 1500 setup as the RC Tx Rudder - then when the rudder or yaw stick is centred - engage MAG - this will lock the heading. We dont...Continue Reading