SMALL - SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
uptime4downtime's blog
Posted by uptime4downtime | Dec 26, 2013 @ 11:43 PM | 3,341 Views
A pretty straight forward build:

CS motor
TP Servos
850 3s nanos
Posted by uptime4downtime | Dec 23, 2013 @ 12:12 AM | 2,804 Views
A great time with a great model for raw 3D. Modified to Hacker A20 22L with 11 prop. This is the identical setup to what I will be installing in my upcoming Parkmaster build. Great plane for rollers, snaps and building confidence down low.
Multiplex Parkmaster 3d Hucking - Multiplayer Realflight (7 min 17 sec)

Posted by uptime4downtime | Sep 17, 2013 @ 05:43 AM | 3,555 Views
Thanks guys. It's been a lot of fun flying the AMR, and I guess I should really fly a real one now :-)

Slickx has done a great job tuning and improving the variant to match better to RealFlight 6.
He has completed the tuning (V2) and I've attached both V1 & V2 of the variant here. His tuning is based on the original variant which was designed for RealFlight G4. I have attached this original variant. Of course, this is based on the original model which comes standard with RealFlight 6 (ultimate bipe:
I have also included the colour schemes thanks to JetPlaneFlyer

Slickx list the following tuning work he undertook for the new variant:
• more realistic side force simulation
• more natural hover behaviour
• tuned CG position using battery only (better tumble)
• added missing struts to physics (regained some KE & overall stability)
• increased torque effect (v2)
• faster servos (v2)
• profile vertical stab (v2)
• reduced aileron size (v2)
• breakable gear (v2)
• Corrected dimensions and placement of a few physic hulls (v2)
• Calculated the airfoils of the fuselage (v2)
• High and low rates are now the same with little inputs (v2)
• Recalculated the whole plane with fictive component weights (v2)

He has tuned it more for the wild side of 3d, and recognises the many flyers will wish for differing performance, and realises that different components and flying styles all add up to different experiences of planes on simulators and in the field.

PA Ultimate AMR Optimised for RealFlight 6.5 (2 min 34 sec)

Posted by uptime4downtime | Sep 16, 2013 @ 06:18 AM | 3,092 Views
Here is a video of the AMR model optimised for RealFlight 6.5

The author is still fine tuning, but I think you will agree, it is already flying nicely. I made the following changes to stock:
1) CG adjustment
X=0 y= -0.28 z= .28
2) Low rates used for most portions of flight
3) Low rates adjusted - travel adjusted from 50% to 75% for ch1,2,4
Excels at Crankshaft, Top Pops etc (especially with stock CG)

I am still getting used to the stick on it, but liking it very much

I should add, the biggest change for me was flying on lower rates for most flights
PA Ultimate AMR Optimised for RealFlight 6.5 (2 min 34 sec)

Posted by uptime4downtime | Sep 14, 2013 @ 06:25 PM | 3,446 Views
Thanks JetPlaneFlyer for coloring the schemes. Tested them all, and as we all expected, the green flew the best
Precision Aerobatics Ultimate AMR - Colour schemes RealFlight 6.5 (3 min 0 sec)

Posted by uptime4downtime | Sep 14, 2013 @ 07:02 AM | 3,123 Views
Just a small nod to a classic - two classics if you are counting, three if you include the plane :-)
PA Ultimate AMR -- Portal Version (3 min 7 sec)

Posted by uptime4downtime | Sep 14, 2013 @ 03:37 AM | 2,544 Views
I got desperate so while waiting for the real thing, I resorted to realflight 6.5
This RF model seems to emulate what I've seen of the flight envelope of the real Precision Aerobatics AMR:
PA Ultimate AMR (3 min 7 sec)

Posted by uptime4downtime | Sep 11, 2013 @ 05:00 AM | 2,440 Views
Trimming tips from Ultimate AMR review (credit: Chris Jewett)

  • Start from a clean slate with all surfaces centered, and set the stock battery pack so that it half covers the holes in the front of the battery tray.
  • Using a deflection gauge, and make sure there is enough throw on the control surfaces of 45 degrees or more in both directions and that the travel is equal in both directions.
  • Take off, and trim to fly level at half throttle, and then head into the wind to trim the rudder so the plane flies dead straight.
  • Climb high, and kill the throttle. Just before or at stall, point the nose straight down, and take your hands off the sticks. If it starts to pick the nose up, then it's nose heavy, and the battery should slide back. If it tucks under, it's tail heavy, and the battery should slide forward. The idea is to experience power off trim/CG changes as the plane accelerates through a full range of flying airspeed. You should do this a few times with each setting, each time changing the airplane's angle to the wind if there is any.
  • Now trim out the knife edge pitch coupling: roll to knife edge, observe what happens, adjust the elevator mix and repeat until it's tracking straight. Do this for both left and right knife edge. As per instructions, the AMRs need to counteract a little tucking to the gear when trimmed to fly level (or straight down in this case).

Posted by uptime4downtime | Sep 11, 2013 @ 04:45 AM | 2,487 Views
Just took possession of the Mobius ready for some summer filming. First short test clip at 1080 on hatcam. Happy with default settings and colour at this stage. No effects/sharpening added. I expect this to get a lot of use shortly with three builds to complete including Multiplex Parkmaster, Crack Laser, New Crack Yak, and possibly completion of the red scheme Telink SU-29
Mobius keychain camera test 1080 Telink Yak 55 (0 min 41 sec)

Posted by uptime4downtime | Aug 23, 2013 @ 05:50 PM | 3,146 Views
Mixing and Setup Tips - Credit for PDF:

Rate Tips: Credit:

Credit for Combined PDF:

First, I used 4 rates with my Slick and a lot of 3d planes. More the heavier ones. Ailerons get a bit too fast.

First rate is low. this is for imac stuff. Do not usually use much. THis is the one to give up if only 3 position switch. I use a dx18 and an futaba 18mz. they both have more available rates.

2nd rate is a snap rate. this is slightly higher elevator often and rudder (all are individual to the plane to make it snap well) then fast ailerons to provide the snap roll rate to look good. I fly this like my low rate on many planes. Need 3d-like expo for ailerons to do that.

3rd is 3d rates. OFten full deflection rates like on EF planes with 60 degrees of elevator make the plane look crappy in slow rolling harriers for instance and hovering. The expo at the end is just too dramatic. So I find a nice rate like 40 to 45 degrees to smooth them out. Same with huge rudders.

4th is a tumbling rate to get everything out of all surfaces when banging the sticks around.

High throw like 60 degree elevator setup. EF, or 3dhs on some. This is how I set it up. From 63" MXS

FM1 - IMAC - AIL-40% / 25 EXP ELEV- 18% / 20 EXP RUD - 30% / 20 EXP
FM2 - Snap - AIL-70%...Continue Reading
Posted by uptime4downtime | Aug 02, 2013 @ 04:44 PM | 3,503 Views
ARM - we dont recommend arm by switch - reason - it's a waste of 4 possible switch positions other than off - if you have 2*3 ways switches - use them for other stuff below
ANGLE - this activates the Accelerometer - self leveling mode - (was called LEVEL or ACC before) - its a beginner mode used for hovering - we dont recommend you Fly in this mode - its designed for hovering directly above your position - where it's otherwise difficult to see small attitude changes. Its useful for FPV take off and land IF your experienced - do not use this for your first noob maiden take off as it confuse you - the acc is sensattive to 0.1 tlt and will rev the props on the downhill side like buggery until its gets its 0.1 offset sorted - its a required mode for RTH
HORIZON - this is a cool new mode - when the cyclic stick is near the centre the Acc is activated - but when you want to fly fast forward or even do Acrobatic flips - then its gyros only - love this new mode!
BARO - be sure to cove rthe BARO with black felt - this prevent erroneous barometric pressure waves from speed or wind and also blocks lights entering the BARO - use this mode to hold Altitude - 2.2 is the first open source release of this code to combine AccZ (G readings) with BARO info and provides a 300mm height hold in a well setup scarab
MAG - Compass or heading lock - be sure you have 1500 setup as the RC Tx Rudder - then when the rudder or yaw stick is centred - engage MAG - this will lock the heading. We dont...Continue Reading
Posted by uptime4downtime | Jun 16, 2013 @ 03:52 AM | 2,837 Views
Foam friends
Posted by uptime4downtime | Apr 09, 2013 @ 01:58 AM | 3,717 Views
crack yak mini (2 min 58 sec)

Posted by uptime4downtime | Apr 09, 2013 @ 01:57 AM | 3,538 Views
crack yakking (5 min 8 sec)

Posted by uptime4downtime | Apr 09, 2013 @ 01:56 AM | 3,542 Views
In honour of my 3d foamie obession, here are my latest series of videos:
Hucking the Telink Edge 540 (3 min 30 sec)

Posted by uptime4downtime | Apr 09, 2013 @ 01:44 AM | 3,492 Views
In honour of my 3d foamie obession, here are my latest series of videos:
Hucking the 48" SBACH (7 min 21 sec)

Posted by uptime4downtime | Jan 25, 2013 @ 07:23 PM | 3,597 Views
Posted by uptime4downtime | Jan 24, 2013 @ 02:02 PM | 4,241 Views

2205C 1400Kv



AXi 2814/16 12x3.8 SF

Prop Balancing

I get the blades to balance. then turn the prop vertical. If it falls to one side I note which side of the hub goes down. Then turn back to vertical with the opposite blade up and if the same side of the hub goes down noted previously then that's the heavy side of the hub. I've added as little as a few hardened drops of CA up to some very small steel washers CA'd to the light side of the hub. When fully balanced you should be able to move the prop into any position and it will stay there. Then balance spinner
Posted by uptime4downtime | Jan 23, 2013 @ 11:13 PM | 3,770 Views
Here's just a short vid (with a little prop saver action! - plane still performs, even with my stripped aileron servo). Loved it! First time on the sticks with it, so fingers in training
Crack Yak Mini Maiden (1 min 33 sec)