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Posted by deckert | Jan 29, 2008 @ 12:09 AM | 2,788 Views
I think I shoulda been sniffing this paint instead of applying it. It sure couldn't be any worse. After my last last fiasco where the LAST COAT (6th coat) of Testors 1214 spray paint refused to set, I'm now into 6 coats of Top-Flite 7518. Where is the pigment with this paint? Just darn near clear coat. AAHHHRRRRGHHHH!

Massively PO'd here @ this juncture. But I gotta tread on. I swore to the wife I wouldn't start another build until the Cub was done. The promise went out the door today, with her understanding, because of my paint problems. She paints China so she really understands. Little tiny Hummingbirds on porcelain ear rings a little bigger then the size of a pencil eraser. Go figure. Point being, it looks as though I either need to switch paints or expend this can & hope. I can only get 2 coats a day between painting, cooking & sanding. However, the painting will go on.

In the meantime, something is needed to fill in the 'watch the paint dry' gaps. Therefore, I started the E-Flite Taylor Craft today. Got a couple of hours into it & all is basically well. The cowl just 'darn near fit'. The bird will be setup with stock specs from E-Flite. It's not exactly a hot rod. I'm just not sure this Park 450 with a Castle 25 ESC is going to push it for anything. Be running hitec 55 servos in it with supplied piano wire push rods. The motor mount is quite unique. All the backing nuts are set into a slider configuration on a diagonal. You could adapt a lot of...Continue Reading
Posted by deckert | Jan 27, 2008 @ 05:09 PM | 2,591 Views
Painting up the window frame plywood edges really cleaned it up. Now laying the cowl paint. Hope hope I hope nothing goes wrong again..

In the sorta strange dept. It's snowing here. Not that it never snows but it's actually calm. About 6" in the last 14 hours. Light and kinda fluffy. Sure covers this ugly country up nice...

Dan
Posted by deckert | Jan 26, 2008 @ 12:45 AM | 3,095 Views
Been a bad week for building. Re-doing the paint on the cowl has been very time consuming. Even oven baking the primer has been sloooow. 1st coat of Cub Yellow paint should be up for tommorrow. Lord I hope this paint job goes better then the last one. All servo horns/backup plates/screws are painted to help hide them.

The Elev/Ail servos won't fit in the pre cut openings so I had to build a new mounting plate. (Wing servo installs worked great) The dual elev. rod links from E-Flite are abominable. Well actually, the rods work, but the dual lock collar tie together dog and pony show to connect them as a single unit is a design of...I don't know what! I highly suspect they got an engineer involved, and a stupid one at that. I installed the rods, measured, marked, removed them & welded them together. I did make an offset kink in one of them to prevent binding when they're pushed. (up elev) Here again the poor steel raised it's ugly head wherein as I almost destroyed them with gas welding. Next time I'll use my own rods, if I can find a way to thread the ends as I'm unsure of what the LHS pre-made rods are made from. E-Flite 'should have supplied' a simple Al pillow block w/set screws to lock these rods together. The weight would be 1/2 of supplied matl. and would have been fully adjustable. Not to mention assembly time would save 30~45 minutes.

Went to install the windows........but, ya know there had to be a but in here, the window openings in the fuse aren't...Continue Reading
Posted by deckert | Jan 19, 2008 @ 10:04 PM | 2,874 Views
We're all, presumably, familiar with Murhys Laws'. Well they bit me yesterday with a vengenance. After laying down 6 coats of paint on my Cub cowl, the final coat never dried, un-beknownst to me. The last coat was from a different can. The cowl had set for 5 days due to other work. I was handling the cowl as I was making some new decorative exhaust from Al tube. Yes, I seen fingerprints on the cowl during handling but I figured I could wipe them off w/alcohol or soap, was I EVER wrong. The finger prints were imbedded into the paint. It wasn't as though the cowl was sticky. 3 hours to remove the old paint back down to the the fiberglass around the engine heads with a dremel tool & a carbide. Sanding the intricate molds was not an option. IE: You can't get there from here! I was really really .

Murphy still hadn't finished with me. after re-sanding, I started a new primer job, 30 seconds into it & the paint refused to flow. Hauled my rear end to the paint store ASAP and said your paint isn't working. They tested it & it flowed great, ran back home & realized I had grabbed the wrong can, I took the brand new clear acrylic up instead of the white primer. Back to the paint store again with the primer, they tested it & threw it out the back door, unceremoniously I might add. Back home with NEW primer. 1st coat on and am praying here.

Unk why the wife refuses to allow me to paint inside, so I prep, run outside under covered roof into 35 degree weather,...Continue Reading
Posted by deckert | Jan 15, 2008 @ 02:06 AM | 2,842 Views
Well I finally gave up & put the wings together Just no real easy way to get them as a 2 piece assembly. On the plus side, I remove the 2 diagonal strut screws from the fuselage bottom & the 2 screws on top, lift/slide the wing to the rear & it lifts right off. The model building gods were watching over me. Attached the front canopy today, decided not to glue it in but used 4 screws to lock it down. No pics but it fit GREAT & very tight. Another plus is I added a fuel guage. Wonder of wonders! Used a push pin and a safety pin combo of all things.

Test fitting today of internal electrics. Pre-thought was parallel 2ea EVO25/2170mAh batteries to make my 4200mAh needs. I had 1 ea anyway from my heli. I've never seen a 4200mAh lipo so I don't know the physical size. Looks as tho some rework in wiring is destined for the very near term. This is going to be one of those 5lbs. into a 3lb. box type deals. Plus the servo openings in the fuse are WAY OVERCUT FROM EFLITE so I'll have to mfg something different to mount the HS-85BB servos Maybe some polycarbonate from some old cd's I have laying around? I don't know yet. IF, & it's a big if, I can keep the ESC in the cowl under the outrunner, it'll somewhat simplify my battery install. I'm still & looking @ this jerkwater assembly from Eflite regarding the elevator pushrods. Two lock collars and some 5 minute epoxy, jeez, what a frickin joke. Maybe I could just mount the batteries externally, you know, one on ea. diag. strut support, like bombs? Sorta like the body pods from the helis from the MASH series. Well that thought indicates it's bedtime.......

Dan
Posted by deckert | Jan 13, 2008 @ 07:32 PM | 2,905 Views
Well after all the fit-refit-test etc.etc. I finally got the vertical strut braces completed & installed. Took about 2 hours ea. to mfg. each back one. Now these really add a finished look to the bird. (needs some touch-up paint) Finally have the cowl painted but need to complete it by doing the engine in black. Decided to cover the cooling intakes with sticky-back black covering. My paint-brush method looked horrible. They'll need to be installed as well. Got started on the wing servos.
I need to remove the wings to finish the servo install so it's going to be interesting how I can remove the wings since the wing struts are basically hard mounted. The top wing screws & single strut screw into the fuselage is the only point I 'hope' to remove. I knew going in this aspect was going to stink, but I also have a pickup with a canopy to haul it with fully together. I really wish there was a convenient way to have made the wing as a two part assembly, but...Servos & electronics next...

In FWIW Dept. I got tired of waiting for Specktrum to release their DX6i so this bird is getting a new DX7/7000 into it. I'm not going to repeat what the wife said but I'll bet most of you have heard the story.
Posted by deckert | Jan 11, 2008 @ 09:22 PM | 4,014 Views
A LOT of test work, cut-fit-throw-away & do again resulted in some damn fine final components, in my humble opinion. Granted these are not 'perfect per se' but all in all, they sure add a tinge of scale for this Cub. The base bolts from the diagonal strut brace supports to the vertical struts 'should' have been 2mm or 2.5 mm bolts/w/nuts. Unfortunately I only had access to 3mm @ the time. No time to cry here but moved on. Used 2.5 x 8mm mm bolts to attach the vertical struts to the diagonal strut brace clips. (custom made by me from brass) Also used 2.5mm x 8mm bolts for the brass right angles to the wing. Hindsight would have been 2mm bolts thruout for some scale. In deference to all this, I 'should' have changed all the diagonal wing struts to aluminum 3/8" airfoils, but........hindsight is 20/20. All in all, the bird is looking a LOT BETTER then the Eflite version. I'm still happy with the mods. Gotta get the nose painted...

Dan
Posted by deckert | Jan 09, 2008 @ 06:18 PM | 2,563 Views
safebet: A labor of love I guess. But way better then the Eflite LG that came with it. Boots are located wrong. Will remove & redo.
Maybe? since I cut the lower rod.
Dan
Posted by deckert | Jan 07, 2008 @ 10:48 PM | 2,493 Views
Let's face it, the phillips head LG brass screws from Eflite stink. They are WAY TO SOFT! After CA'ing the holes for the LG screws, I stripped the heads out 4 of them on the re-install. Unacceptable to say the least. Fortunately, my LHS had a bag of Dubro servo mount screws that use a hex driver for install. These should be standard as far as I can see. Albeit they're a bit to long, they're definitely the way to go for an install. I'll have to add some foam or balsa to cover of the screw tips to prevent electrical short/rubbing inside the cabin.

I've been sniping @ Eflite during this build, however, I'd like everyone to know, it's not so much as "what" they produced but rather "how" they supplied it. I surmise it's just a matter of go fly on the cheap vs. detail for more bucks & fly. Obviously, I've chosen the 2nd option. I'm certainly not griping about the money I've spent but rather, after many, many hours into this, I still believe Eflite could & should have provided some better detailing and supplies. This note on the LG screws just being the latest. I know I would have gladly spent another 10~15 bucks for some quailty upgrades that would have probably added another actual 2~3 dollars to the kit.

Before I ever CA'ed the LG screw holes, I stripped out 2 screwheads during install. Just unacceptable! B4 anyone goes here....I have over $7k in quality hand tools and they're not from sears, wal-mart, harbor freight or your local LHS.

...Continue Reading
Posted by deckert | Jan 05, 2008 @ 09:32 PM | 2,321 Views
After cutting the mono to small for the 1st try to lay on, here's the second try. I just can not believe the difference from this as opposed to what came from Eflite with the ty wrap skirts. The off side is laying there & needs installed. This one took an hour, mistake included.

Dan
Posted by deckert | Jan 03, 2008 @ 10:12 PM | 2,461 Views
Finally got the LG mods completed tonite by getting the shock bags on. Since I was afraid to bend my new mfg. LG for fear of breakage, I had to cut a 1/2" x 6" dowel in two lengthwise. Then I ran a taper nose carbide lengthwise down the center with a drill press at fairly low speed. Just chucked up the carbide & pushed the 1/2 of the dowel down a straightedge to keep it centered. Made a beautiful groove right down the center. Still had to router out more material but better to need to remove some more then start all over.

Effectively I had to make 4 ea. half pieces. That way I could just surround the lower brace rods & CA them together. I used ty wraps to hold them in place while curing. The lower bracing had a 3/8" section cut out (each side) that's centered in the bags and hidden. This should allow the new gear to still have some flex.

Used a circle template from my old pencil days of drafting & cut some 3/4" rounds from some black stickyback lettering tape. The same kind you letter vehicles with. 4 ea. of those were applied & cut to fit each end of the shock covers. I did use a hole punch to remove the center of the round so it would fit better. Press it down & slit the edges that extend past the radius to allow the material to lay flat. Took about 12 cuts for me on the 1/2" dowel. Then cut and overlaid around the circumfrence with same material. Again, the material needs to be wider then the length, by using a notching...Continue Reading
Posted by deckert | Jan 02, 2008 @ 07:08 PM | 2,136 Views
and 5 hours later, I finally got my tail wires installed on the Cub & I think they look great. Let's face it, I'm a lousy photograher because I shake. Wires are .038 dia. 80# test plastic coated fishing wire by Berkley, in black. Clips are brass from 12v electrical connections. Hammered out & drilled to allow the 2mm screws & cabling to go thru.

I drilled a hole thru the vert/horz stabilizers & inserted a 1/8dia. x .014wall piece of tube as spacer shims. This way when I tightened the screws, they wouldn't crush the balsa. (I think learned that here @ RCG from someones Blog) The screws are 2mm x 10mm & fit perfect inside the tube shims. I CA'd the nuts in place since I had about 3 threads projecting past the nuts. Maybe I should have used threadlocker but...?

After I mounted the brass brackets I started the fight with the wire. What an ordeal THAT was. I cut a plastic straw to use as a length guide @ the shortest point between the holes. 1 cable end is REAL easy to set with the loop & crimp, the other end is a real BEAR because this wire is not bender friendly, it's 'darn near like' spring wire. The short of it was, I finally won. Had 5 installs, which equals 1 mistake since there's only 4 wires. Used a single brass lug on the bottom w/3 holes in it. I screwed it into the Fuse tail after I CA'd the screw hole. (small wood screw) Pics not real clear for this. Much bend-test-bend-test etc. etc. resulted in cabling that is 'JUST BARELY SNUG' as to NOT warp/twist the tail feathers. Did I state how good this looks? Wow, what a difference.

Cowl & new exhaust received 1st coat of paint today as well. Moooovin on

Dan
Posted by deckert | Jan 01, 2008 @ 10:59 PM | 2,542 Views
I finally got my exhausts made. Sorta! And of all things, the foamy stuff some people use to build their planes. Sorta flexible so shouldn't get destroyed, nor destroy anything, in case of a nose over. Here's some more lousy pics of the cowl w/exhaust. These are kinda rough since I've never worked with this stuff before. But the look is going to be killer.....

Down side is I have enough of this foam stuff to build another 8~900 exhaust systems. Criminy! Tried 2 approaches for the exhaust. 1st was cut blocks & glue together then sand down. 2nd was to cut plugs with a hole punch (used for gasket material) & glue them end to end & then sand. 1st method provided better quality as it's easier to sand a block piece of the foam then to try & sand over the glue joints on the plug cuts. (2nd method)

Irrespective of the above, I have a lightweight method & product. Wow. All the hours of fussing, cussing & discussing & I wind up here. I can at least smell the cowl paint coming on. Yippee! Gonna have a drink tonite on this! Now I just have to build a better quality set with some patience. Ever onward...

I wish to extend a Hearty Thank You to RCG for providing a site for RC'ers to post & discuss RC. The help & info from this site & members has literally been invaluable. So to RCG, all of the members, (& the viewers) I wish you a Happy New Year.

Dan
Posted by deckert | Dec 31, 2007 @ 02:12 AM | 2,030 Views
Here's a couple of lousy pics of the new cowl mods. As previously stated, I'm probably going to have to make the exhaust replica from something other the Al tube to get a scale looking exhaust. Oh joy! Going to try the foam some people build planes from I guess. More experimentation. Must be why it's called a hobby? Shoulda been renamed a money-pit.

Ever onward.....Sheesh, I must be an idiot to spend more money/time on mfg aftermarket mods then the whole dang bird cost! I swear to God, it would be cheaper to be a stinking drug addict. Is there a 12 step program for RC Modeling like AA?

Step 1. I Really Need this bird. (The 1st big LIE!) But what a 'wonderful lie' it is!
Step 2. (You add on from here............)
Posted by deckert | Dec 30, 2007 @ 01:58 PM | 1,999 Views
Well the refrigerator tubing failed. Not for bending but for gluing/attaching. If there's something out there that can stick 2 pieces of this together, I'd be curuious to know what it is. 30 minute cure with cyno failed. Back to Al tube I guess. Road trip for more material. Rats.

I did get my new LG painted tho. Just need to cut the lower rods & add shock bags. Pic of cowl with 'test' Al exhaust tubes. Maybe I need to try this foam stuff?
Posted by deckert | Dec 27, 2007 @ 04:48 PM | 2,093 Views
Looks as tho the plastic icemaker line is going to work. Will get a borrowed heat gun tomorrow to make good bends. (try anyway) Heat, bend, hold shape until cool & wah lah.

Shape stays put & tubing is still flexible.
Not to mention, it's still round & not oblong @ the bend.
Posted by deckert | Dec 27, 2007 @ 02:07 AM | 2,130 Views
As stated, the new LG is made. For some reason, it all fits like a glove, better to be lucky then good I guess..LOL. 6 'lite' coats of paint as of today. Will need to cut the lower strut bracing to allow for factory LG flex. Plus the install of the LG shock bracing. The lower shock rod bracing (no pics as of yet, paint is still wet) will have scale (sorta) covers for looks.

Again, & I HATE to rehash this, the mods to 'create' any semblance of the exhaust is kicking my rear end into the heavens. I've spent 40 + hours looking thru the web in NG's and here & there to figure out a way to make some scale type bends to create a 'somewhat authentic looking' exhaust system. Pic is posted here with the 'closest I can come with available products'. I've spoken with Dubro & K&S for bending the tubing with no results. I've tried every 'method', as it were to try bending .014 wall Al tubing to get a 1/4" radius bend in this tubing. I've even tried heavy wall Al tube but I'm UNABLE TO GET A SHORT ENOUGH BEND RADIUS to lend to scale.
Everything has failed to date.

Desperation prevailing, I tried some left over 1/4" od plastic tubing that fed my icemaker in the refrigerator. It 'may' have some promise. ( I have about 10~15' of it left. ) I swear to God, I've tried every available option I read about plus some you've never heard about, to get this bend.

Can you say KINK?

Irrespective of the above, the lower half of the (FG) FiberGlass...Continue Reading
Posted by deckert | Dec 24, 2007 @ 01:49 AM | 2,386 Views
Terrible mishap trying to add scale LG components to Eflite 25 cub landing gear. "HORRIBLE low grade Eflite matl." to say the least. (and I'm NOT APOLOGIZING in any manner or form for my comment) Anyway, bought & made all new LG matl. from ASTM A-36 matl. Gas welded OK & new LG is perfect fit, in spite of my old shaky butt & being blind. Needs paint & ready to go. Will cut/remove 1/2" from lower strut rods for LG travel/spring that won't interfere w/original design specs. Weight feels darn near indentical, I have no weigh scale..

On to the cowl. am 'trying' to find a tubing bender that will bend 3/16"~1/4" radius of 7/32" tube for the exhaust. Now there's a problem..Try bending this tubing without collapsing the walls & flat shaping it..Add to this my dremel quit working.. & less then 60 hours of running time (The switch only) but really IRRITATING.
The exhaust tubes need installed before I can glass in the cowl inlets because of exhaust access securing. BUT, I can't install the exhaust tubes "until" I can get the tubes bent. Time delay again. Have requests in to Dubro and K&S for bending the tubing, unless someone 'can or will do it'? Any expert tubing benders out there? Drop a PM
Found a website, http://www.savacable.com that may be able to produce/supply cabling for the tail feathers. Lord I'm hoping... but ???

It's an uphill battle all the way to develop/mfg anything relative to the scale...Continue Reading
Posted by deckert | Dec 22, 2007 @ 12:51 AM | 2,142 Views
Attempted to weld new X bracing onto LG for detail via gas welding. (I have 25 years as a certified welder/all phases) The Eflite LG matl. is WAY TO SOFT to weld via gas w/ms heli arc rod. (oxy/act) Heli-arc..Maybe? Mig..Maybe? Welding filler wire was Nuclear Grade heli-arc matl. The LG wire is not ASTM A36 wire, or if it is suppossed to be, something else was substituted. The LG wire got hot and literally dropped off, just like Al wire does when it gets to hot. No bending/drooping/distorting, just fell off.GGRRRRR Waiting to hear from Eflite on this..........

Moving on.. Major restructuring on the cowl. Using .016 Al sheet matl. I constructed new cylinder cooling inlets. Rolled these around the Xacto knife & then spread them open to fit the profile. Mfg from Eflite didn't exactly work since the FG (fiberglass) cyl. heads were lower on one side then the other, which changed the radius @ the top 1/2 of the inlet cowls Just look @ one side @ a time I guess. Not real bad but way to noticeable. As I previously stated, lack of QA/QC work from Eflite. These will need to be glassed/epoxied in to provide a smooth contour @ the rear, top & bottom.

I cut holes thru the side of the cowl to allow airflow into the engine housing. Included tabs on the .016 Al that penetrate the cowl & will be glassed/epoxied on the inside for retention. Mfg. of inlets burned up a tree or two by modeling in AutoCad and printing out for test fitting with heavy gloss laser photo paper for rigidity. (12 runs) Don't even get me started on what the wife had to say.............
My only defense was," this, or chasing women & drinking @ the local watering hole?"........dead silence..peace reigns again

Off to town tommorrow for new LG wire that will meet ASTM A-36 specs for welding. Just a PAIN! Eflite, ya hear this?
Posted by deckert | Dec 15, 2007 @ 02:04 AM | 2,337 Views
This a build/mod log of my ARF J-3 E-flite 25 size cub. Had this thing 80%? put together & thought hey, I need to spend more money here. Nice plane but SERIOUSLY lacking detail. QA/QC product also lacking but that's another story. The plane has a sufficient size to support a lot more detail..so...here I go. The hunt for parts, jeez &#%&)&@#$&) ....ok settling down.

1st. LG skirts~ Stinking tie wraps to secure, what in the ??? were these people thinking? These had to go. New balsa covered w/monokote cover & set inside the wire gear framing. Will cover the LG wire gear & new balsa with another layer of monokote. Although the original J3 had only fabric, I'm reinforcing it with this addn. NO STINKIN tie wraps! Ya hear me E-flite? holy crimany..Not installed yet because the LG needs some 'simple X-Brace mods' that "should have come w/a bird of this scale" and will require welding prior to installing the new skirts. Covered later..

2nd. Cowl. Good lord, what were these people thinking when they designed the cowl?? Dremeled all the ?something?exhaust? tubes off. Uh, there's only '1' exhaust tube per cylinder, not the '4' on the bird. This left some ugly loss of cowl matl. Installed new epoxied glass to cover the loss & will sand smooth. 1st mistake was 5/min/epoxy. What WAS I thinking..jeez. No mistakes as it needs sanding, but stupidity reared it's ugly head. Working on mfg. new exhaust from 7/32" aluminum tube. Gotta...Continue Reading