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Posted by frenchomebuilder | Nov 20, 2014 @ 06:02 AM | 1,221 Views
In the spring, I bought a Arden motor to " colibriguitars" , who at the same time gave me an incomplete ED Hunter marine, not very beautiful, but it had excellent compression .
Thanks to colibriguitars!
The engine deserved to be restored.
As I had no other way to find the parts, I had to make them , but, I ' m not well equipped in terms of imperial taps and dies . My friend "brobenenglish" flew to my rescue and gave me some essential parts: back cover including distributor with screws, screw compression which still had to add a stick, the venturi trumpet ..
Thanks to him ..
Starting there, I had no reason to not make ..
I originally wanted to restore converting aero version, but it s' soon became apparent that the introduction of cooling fins would be a pain, I opted for marine, that would be my only marine ..
To complete the restoration, I had to turn a flywheel, add a stick on the compression screw to make a cooling jacket, this was done ..
Then I have found in my stuff a spray bar that I adapted without too much trouble .. I then prepared a needle and voila, a beautiful engine ready to work with a huge compression ..
Have a nice day !
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Apr 08, 2014 @ 06:41 AM | 2,397 Views
This motor must run ..
The story is I bought 2 motors in bad state, to try to make one ..
One piston was exploded, the 2 crank pins are not the same diameter , at the reed location, I found a rest of some sort of rubber , decomposed .. The reed was set on a sort of rivet on a part I called "reed box". At first I didn' t wish to remove the rivet , so I had only one way to set a reed : rubber, as it was easy to set it over the rivet head . I made the reed cuting off in a nitril work glove .
I restored all of the mechanic ( I thought all ) , , . . .. It ran may be 10 seconds. I dismantled , found the redd deformed, elongated .
So I extracted the rivet, as previously explained in my blog . I set a new reed, made of a sort of mylar ( the sheets used by dentists to mix their compounds ) . I immersed a piece of the sheet in nitro fuel , for 24 hours, with no problem . The rivet being extracted, I taped M3, and set the new reed, withoud tightening .
The motor didn' t run, or so few ..
I installed a new reed, made of reinforced teflon , see the pic ..
The motor ran may be one minute , the reed seems to work, I now suspect the needle, and also that big gap I discovered between crank and case .
On this afternoon, I ' ll set a bronze bushing, and try ..
Bushing set up, new tries, using different fuels, the results are poor, worse than previously . So I leave the subject . If I find some time in the next fall / winter , I ' ll try a Cox reed or may be a rotary valve ..
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Apr 03, 2014 @ 06:11 PM | 2,243 Views
The reed.. always problem ..
I made a new one as described in the pic .
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Feb 22, 2014 @ 03:20 PM | 1,620 Views
I totally restored this chassis. Here is a video of the working timer :
ARDEN TIMER (0 min 17 sec)

If you are interested to repair yours, just mail .. I' ll give you the good way to do ..
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Feb 22, 2014 @ 03:02 PM | 1,587 Views
Suite ..and end
The friction of the bracket on the motor nose is very smooth, adjustable trough the screw . The lever is a bit long, but I keep safe all my fingers , when adjusted the timing, turning clocwise the lever locks the bracket on the motor .. I made also a new needle, as the genuine was broken . This one is also a bit long ..
As soon as it will not rain anymore, I" ll put it on the bench ..
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Feb 11, 2014 @ 04:02 PM | 1,669 Views
I bought for some $ last year this Sky chief, complete but bad z alloy case broken. .
Considering the price of a new aluminum case, I decided to cast and machine myself.
So I made an alu model.

In the following weeks , I will publish the photos of molding .. if that works ..
Also I " ll make a new rod, as the genuine one is made of z alloy , a new hollow steel piston shaft , as the genuine one is made of plain alu , questionable choices..
I ' ll have too to make a new tank bowl, as the old one is a bit broken ..
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Feb 05, 2014 @ 03:44 PM | 2,267 Views
Well ..
I had restored all of the mechanical parts on last winter. As I hadn' t a timer, I made one . I started searching a standard pair of points. My choice is a pair of points from a slick magneto .
The bracket is made of a 2017 washer , turned to ID 27, OD 60, 9 mm thick .


The easier would be to buy a new one..
Your second choice is a to enjoy making it yourself, which I did ..
First, go and pay a visit to your favorite plane mechanic , and ask him to give you a couple of used SLICK magnetos points . Points require to be changed on a regular basis, so used points are perfectly all right for old spak motors ..
Dismantle a points pair, note the assembly order, clean all the parts, clean the contacts using a diamond file . You have then to cut off the extension of the 2 faston connectors.
If interested I could make a bracket drawing. Just ask
The rotation speed of our motors is much higher than that of a plane magneto, so the spring rate must be increased accordingly .
So take really good care when you reassemble to set one of the faston rests under the mobil point blade.
Then turn in stock aluminium ( I made in a 2017 10 mm sheet ) a ring 27 mm ID 60 mm OD 9 mm thick.
Set the ring on the motor, set the points and draw on the ring the position of the 2 mounting holes ,
Then report the draw outline of the finished bracket on the ring , remove the alu excess using sew and files, dremel etc .. Of course if you own a cnc machine, it could be easier ..
Well, just add some screw about 3mm dia to ensure the clamping force, add some music wire to make up for the lever.
So you spent may be 5 hours, what I spent, and you get a almost free and reliable timer.
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Jan 22, 2014 @ 03:38 PM | 1,880 Views
I bought this motor on ebay USA, because the vendor said it had "good compression " , the case looked fine, but .. the general aspect was rather dirty, spark , points, tank, were missing, I thought the auction would not go very high , which was the case .
when I got it , the dirt was there all right .. Compression looked good, but the piston tended to jam near the exhaust opening . I also noted a relatively wide gap between the crankshaft and the bearing.
gutted open, I found :
a thrust ball bearing between the crankshaft and the bushing.
the bushing very worn on the crank side
the connecting rod worn from 6.35 to 6.48
the piston pin worn from 6.35 to 6.3
the piston bores worn from 6.35 to 6.45
the conrod head worn rod from 6.35 to 6.4.
So I decided to get to work ...
PISTON CYLINDER
First, I made ​​sure that the piston moves up and down in the cylinder perfectly .there was a kind of protuberance on the upper edge of the piston, which I took away with a very fine burnishing .
I subsequently reamed the piston holes up to 6.5 mm , and I made a 6.5 mm new piston wrist . I turned it into a higher quality steel 8mm screw .
ROD
Then I reamed the connecting rod head up to 6.5, there was only some1/100 mm to remove, which was easy though the steel was so hard I had to use a diamond file.
I finally extracted the connecting rod bushing, made a new one and finetuned it to the journal diameter : 6.3 mm.
BEARING AND SHAFT
I removed it as it...Continue Reading
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Jan 17, 2014 @ 04:42 AM | 2,290 Views
All in the pic
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Jan 15, 2014 @ 03:29 AM | 1,913 Views
Last year, I bought 3 Arden 0.99 motors. The #1, bought in France, was in very bad state. Many parts were not there.. The tank screw was broken flush the case , I had not timing, no tank , no tank cap, the trottle lever was broken off .. Well.. After a time, some patience, I found on ebay some parts, and some others from a great Arden specialist .. The motor is to day perfect .
The #2 , bought in the US, was also in a bad state, no tank, some missing parts in the timer, no throttle lever . I also found all of the parts, except the lever. So I decided to make a new one from alu. The result is superb .. So , if you miss that lever, you can make a new one in some hours . I can give a plan, and the good method to achieve
The #3 is a gp one . I bought it in good state. Only were missing the prop washer ans screw, I made new ones from stock, the tank, I made it from tin ..
3 nice motors more in my collection ..
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Dec 17, 2013 @ 02:13 AM | 2,094 Views
Many of this crank cox motor generation are broken . Here is a repairing method.
This repair seems interesting, I will still check in practice.
By having a threaded rod not too strong, we can estimate that during a crash, the rod will bend, it would suffice to install a new one .So the crankshaft has become "unbreakable."
Note that the clamping force of the prop occurs only between the nut and the cone, so it does not tend to pull off the threaded rod from the crankshaft.
The connection between the crankshaft and the threaded spindle is constrained only by the motor torque and the gyroscopic torque on the propeller.
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Jan 24, 2013 @ 05:22 AM | 2,846 Views
Here are the last motors I bought in the winter .
Now I ' ve to work ..
The Sky devil has no sn . It is not clean , there are not points, but it is in good mechanical state . May be I ' ll try to make points myself .
The Ohlsson is same state , the sn is on the pic .
I aslo got a Arden 099. Was dirty , throttle lever broken , no tank, no timing, but in good state too..
Wel. I' ve to work ..
Posted by frenchomebuilder | May 22, 2012 @ 06:16 AM | 3,260 Views
That one had not too many malfunctions, out of the intake manifold which was broken flush with the housing on half a circumference.
I found the carburetor Araldit sealed , but all the parts are in good state . I have soldered the break on the housing, it is ready to be reset .
Posted by frenchomebuilder | May 15, 2012 @ 06:20 PM | 2,683 Views
Here is a Super hurricane 24 I bought to a French on ebay obviously in "very good state " .. ..
Cosmetically, it is in good state , also are the points , cylinder sleeve, piston .. There is a but .. As you can see on the pic, the crank has been seroiusly hammered .. Why ?? Also has been the crank pin .. That you can' t see on the pic, but the rear diameter is bigger of 1/10 mm than the rest of the pin ..
For the rest , it is like I could expect it was : the main bearing is worn out , 2/10 mm ( as far I know, this is a problem on this motor ) , also is the rod, on the 2 ends , also is the piston hole .
So I will regrind the crank pin to 4.6 mm , set a bronze sleeve in the rod . The upper part of the rod will simply be reamed to 3.4 mm instead of 3.17 when new. So will be also the piston, after that , I will set a new piston wrist 3.4 mm .
Also I will set a new main bearing, dimensions as new ..

I' m quite happy . Turns freely, no play, good compression .. Sure a pleasure to run it ..
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Apr 17, 2012 @ 03:01 AM | 2,713 Views
Following pictures :
To day the fan and gear are definitively enclosed , the volume is sealed , so the mixture can pass through all of that . The sparking system is quite operational . I get the 5 sparks where they must be . Remains to make a rear cap, sure to morrow, and fix the distributor .

WILL BE CONTINUED IN SEPTEMBER
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Mar 17, 2012 @ 04:07 AM | 2,923 Views
Not too much room, not too much motors ..
Posted by frenchomebuilder | Mar 01, 2012 @ 04:57 AM | 3,219 Views
Hello
As I have all my time now to make only what I like , I am restoring old radios from 1920 to 1960, I also repare some clocks, I restore and build steam engines , also build plane models , and I fly when I have time enough ..
Here you can see a part of my steamer activity , and what I easily found at the time . I' ll load some other pics in the days ..:
HORNBY ROCKET ET VOITURES LE 27 03 2011 (3 min 13 sec)
...Continue Reading