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Posted by theKM | Nov 29, 2013 @ 12:51 AM | 2,200 Views
My FWIW post about my attitude toward switches:

Everything about trying to make something reliable or fault tolerant is about just answering the voices in your head. From switches to redundant receivers. But for switches, some guys don't use switches at all because it's an extra failure point. I used to not use switches also until these nice looking shunt switches came out.

What makes me nervous about other switches is that all switches have a low max sustainable current, including Badger and Wolverine switches. For switches trusted in planes larger than 100cc, it's surprisingly low. They may be fine, but I have measured the current draw in my own 50cc planes to substantially spike over 20amps. Connect an EagleTree logger into your flight system, set it to log at a fast rate, and then be rather surprised by the current draws (watch the spikes in snap maneuvers, pretty scary). So for me, I have a personally hard time putting something in the train of power delivery that can't handle all the load all the time.

Shunts solve this for me because the connector that it is based on can handle all the power delivery that could ever be used, spiked or otherwise... when I have used Deans myself on main motor supply of 3+kw electric planes, other's have used them on 10's of kilowatt setups... the voices have zero concern about the power handling of the flight system.

Accidental unplugging... Deans have a reputation for being tough to pull apart. I don't think they're...Continue Reading
Posted by theKM | Nov 26, 2011 @ 04:08 PM | 9,182 Views
a "fwiw" post, that once and for all has everything I've found out about working with hatcams. This is a secret for addicts only, and should only be used to film 3dhs planes

1) forget helmets, they suck (was my first hatcam attempt). hats fit tighter, more comfy, and good for it all. Don't use elastic strap hats, needs to be something you can adjust the tightness and have it stay.
2) it needs a firm mount... the biggest gain is simply adding a nice firm mount to a hat. My first usable hatcam simply screwed plywood to the hat visor. Worked pretty well. My latest rig I changed wood for some shaped fiberglass. You can get bolts from the hardware store that match the tripod mount on the camera.
3) camera needs repeatable positioning... cover the bottom of the camera with press-n-seal, mount camera to hat, then smoosh Mighty Putty or equivalent around the corners of the base of the camera. When it dries, remove camera and press-n-seal, what you're left with is a camera mount that the camera will only seat in the one position.
4) reticle... drop a single piece of wire straight down from the end of the cap. in your vision this doubles up, nicely framing horizontally for the sides of the frame. A cross bar will take adjustment, but those will help aim vertically (and is actually most important... if I'm out of frame at all it's on the vertical axis). Will take some practice and testing to aim the horizontal bars on the reticle, and also to get used to it being...Continue Reading
Posted by theKM | Dec 07, 2009 @ 09:10 PM | 14,072 Views
...wanted to update a post on my blog to list my sponsors. I joined team 3DHobbyShop some time ago, I now work for them as a product developer, and outside of that some high quality brands are supporting my RC antics of which I'm truly appreciative. Some people want to know what brands are behind me so they can regard my posts as biased or whatever... but, whatever. I was a customer of these products long before I was a member of their team... I take a serious attitude toward providing advice and recommendations. All efforts towards helping people enjoy the hobby can be destroyed with a single bad connector or faulty servo. To this degree I make sure that my recommendations are based on genuine personal experience.

People should be able to buy products with the assurance of a rewarding experience. Life is too short to play with un-fun toys. For a rewarding experience I heartily recommend these brands...


Posted by theKM | Feb 12, 2009 @ 08:52 PM | 16,620 Views
...'cause you get the milk for free, or something.
Posted by theKM | Jan 28, 2009 @ 11:19 PM | 16,947 Views
Yay MightyPutty!
Posted by theKM | May 19, 2008 @ 12:42 PM | 18,827 Views
here's the horse...
Posted by theKM | Feb 02, 2008 @ 03:16 PM | 19,070 Views
Managed to get in on a set of try-outs of a small motor. Here's the try-out thread...


...and attached is a pic of what I got in the mail.
Posted by theKM | Jan 03, 2008 @ 11:57 AM | 19,240 Views
...and while gathering the Maelstrom and flicking through the Floaterline, I realised there was no original sketches, as the Floaterline idea actually started as a canard... and was the originating point for the "common fuselage" idea to have the canard, and a more "typical" plane arrangement.

The attached sketches show the two variant ideas and that it has actually made it into CAD... the more "natural" looking wing, or the constant chord which was to have visual queues back to golden age planes like the GeeBee and Wedell Williams.

And from the front elevation, you can kind of see how I progressed from this to the dihedral shape for the Maelstrom.
Sticky: The Maelstrom
Posted by theKM | Jan 03, 2008 @ 11:33 AM | 19,294 Views
Back in august I posted into an EDF forum with some sketches of a design I've been workin on since February. It's an EDF canard seaplane, which will be called "the Maelstrom". Here's the same sketches rotated for better viewing...
Posted by theKM | Jul 25, 2007 @ 02:01 PM | 20,909 Views
The latest updated plans for the Twinkle have arrived. These include some minor corrections and improvements to the design and updates for the instructions to make them clearer.

The new depron version of the plans also arrived. These depron plans were developed from scratch with just the outer dimensions of the original as consideration. All the parts are made specifically for the depron build and as such create the exact same plans as the balsa version in an aerodynamic sense.

...you can also build a balsa/depron hybrid from the balsa plans. By using depron for the fuselage and tip floats, you get a plane with the raw builders charm of the balsa build, with the durability of the depron (the depron can take a lot of knocks about the fuse and tip floats without creating leaking problems).

The plan sets are available from my site... http://keyboardmonkey.com/twinkle

Posted by theKM | Jul 20, 2007 @ 12:18 AM | 19,951 Views
Plans for Twinkle can be found/ordered from my site...

Posted by theKM | Mar 17, 2006 @ 12:58 AM | 22,915 Views
Winter is coming to a close and every time I see water, or the evenings hush to a dull roar of dead-calm nothingness... I keep thinking I need another amphibian to commit flight and reprise efforts put into Twinkle.

For the longest time I've needed to build a classic looking thing-of-fancy (not scale at all), and more recently it's been of a float plane amphib configuration. The idead also flirt every now and then with it being a canard. Over time it will probably take on a few configurations based on the classic fuselage theme with common parts and construction style. But for now... here's where my thoughts are for...

...the Floaterline Special
Posted by theKM | Mar 07, 2006 @ 12:47 PM | 22,487 Views
no really it is... it's a blog entry... just try and deny it.