SMALL - espritmodel.com SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
Sandancer's blog
Posted by Sandancer | Dec 19, 2010 @ 01:28 PM | 15,546 Views
This is my version of the MARINES DREAM FG-1D Corsair.






NOTE: The revised CG on the Corsair has changed from the original setting of 125mm to 85mm - 90mm.
I borrowed an illustration from Mike/RogueTitan on another way to measure CG on the Corsair.
Posted by Sandancer | Dec 19, 2010 @ 01:21 PM | 16,100 Views
Once again, I gotta have my retracting/steerable tail wheel assembly!

Corsair TailWheel Bay Doors (1 min 19 sec)


Because I am planning to run the heavier SK 5055 580kv motor on 5S, I don't expect my tail wheel will dramatically effect the already tail heavy issue? In fact, when everything is done, I won't be surprised I might have to remove some, or all of those weights already embedded in the cowl? With that in mind, I started my tail wheel mod. From what I've learned from my first two builds, (P-51 & P-47), the Corsair was going to be a breeze!

I once again used the PZ #15090/312 E-Tract. I flipped it around so the gear would retract towards the front instead of the scale rearward inclination for 2 reasons. One: There is more room to retract the gear forward into the fuse and not require having to weaken the tail section by removing additional foam towards the rear. Second: With the tail wheel deployed I wanted the weight transferred to the back stop of the retract arm as opposed to all the force that would be applied to the worm drive in the opposite direction.

I GG the mounting flange on top of the ledge inside the tail wheel compartment. Because that would move the assembly deeper, I had to machine an additional 3/16" length to the strut leg to achieve the height I wanted for the wheel to clear the fuse when deployed and give it a proper stance. Once I got the tail wheel done, I lengthened both the E-Tract and steering...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Dec 19, 2010 @ 11:13 AM | 15,469 Views
This plane has to be identified in the dark of night so of course it get's a set of Navigation lights too.



UP-DATE 2/12/2013: I have taken a different approach to how I wanted to configure the landing lights on the Corsair!

I've removed that single light pod design from the belly, and I've installed a more conventional 2 light system on the wing's LE. I used two 1W 90LM LEDs mounted in 1/16" ply and recessed in the LE of both wings. I have the wiring channeled back in to the flap servo cavities and the routed in to the compartment in the wing where I changed out the light controller to a Lazertoyz Maxi, that way I can turn the landing lights on & off separate from the other nav lights. I then covered both light's recesses with pieces of 3M packing tape to simulate lens covers.

Finishing up the mod, I used strips I cut from the roll of white Oracal651 vinyl I have, painted them to match the MM Navy Blue/Gray that I used on the bottom of the wings, and covered all the wire channels.

The Corsair looks much better now!


~~~~Thumbnails~~~~...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Dec 19, 2010 @ 11:12 AM | 14,943 Views
This is my version of the 50 cal. guns on the Corsair.



I utilized the same process for making the barrels like I did on the P-47. I know the original guns are black, but I like the way the aluminum enhances their appearance....Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Dec 19, 2010 @ 10:18 AM | 14,586 Views


My original plans for the tail section was to figure a way to conceal the rudder linkage inside the tail assembly. I came up with a good way to do it, but with the advise from my good friend Tony/LiCobra, I shelved the idea when the issue of the Corsair being a bit tail heavy arose. Knowing I was going to be installing my workable tail wheel assembly, I decided against this mod in lew of that. I did install a small square CF spar in the tail end of the rudder assembly base because that area seemed to be a bit weak?

I did re-hinge both the rudder and the elevator with CA live hinges. My previous attempts at this mod on the P-51 & P-47 proved exasperating because I couldn't retain the CA from spreading onto the flexible part of the hinge, thus making them rather stiff! This time I took a different approach. Knowing I was going to be re-painting the plane anyway, I decided to install the hinges in their slots, then take a small bit and drill a hole into the foam and thru the hinge material. That way, when I shot the CA in the holes it would spread evenly through out the hinge material. Doing this procedure I was able to keep the CA from spreading to the hinging parts of the live hinges. Once everything was done, I filled the holes with Squadron White Putty.

Once the rudder was done, I started on the elevator. First thing was installing a .080 joiner rod in both control surfaces to eliminate the need for 2 servo linkages. I did this...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Dec 12, 2010 @ 10:40 PM | 14,716 Views


An issue that seems to have developed here lately is the fact that some of the planes being delivered now, have the cowl glued on the bulkhead of the fuse for some reason? That glitch has already been reported to FMS, and should have been rectified on the assembly line by now?

Fortunately, the cowl on mine wasn't glued on, so removing it was a breeze. But doing so reveled an entirely different issue I would have to deal with!

It looked like someone on the production line forgot to line up the firewall before they glued the two halves together! To correct this I had to split the forward section of the fuse apart so I could orientate the firewall in the correct position. Upon doing so, I discovered something interesting in the lower section of the cowl bulkhead? It appears FMS needed to counter balance the tail heavy issue on the Corsair by embedding 3-4 oz. of weights in the nose? This should be a viable solution if you're running the stock set-up! I plan to run the heavier SK 50-55 580 with a 5S lipo, so when I'm done with the build I might have to remove these weights to get the proper balance for CG?

Okay, I got my engine compartment issues solved, so now I need to figure out how to re-attach the cowl without the aid of glue? My solution was good 'ole rare earth magnets! My first shot was with the 3/8" round ones, but I didn't feel confident they had enough strength to hold the cowl in place? So I pulled them back out and replaced...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 24, 2010 @ 07:43 PM | 16,046 Views
Corsair-Robart Goodyears.m4v (1 min 44 sec)


With the combination of the 90 rotating struts and the split bay doors, the Landing Gear on the Corsair is quite unique for a model of this size.

The nifty little sequencer makes everything work in unison, and FMS has made it really easy to hook into the electrical system including the Y-harnesses that are included.

The only improvement I could find on the main LG was changing out the stock wheels and tires. I chose the Robart 2 3/4" Goodyear ribbed tires w/spoked scale wheels. I was hoping to use the 3" Goodyear's, but the tire was to big to fit in the wheel well, so I settled for the 2 3/4".

To get them to fit properly so the spoked caps would fit on the wheels, I had to cut 3/16" off the axle. I tried several different collar combination's, but none would allow enough clearance for the hub cap. I finally came up with a simple way to hold the wheels on the shaft with the use of an O-ring. First I took a 10-32 die and threaded it on the shaft as far as it would go just to get some kind of bite to retain the O-ring. I then installed 2 nylon spacers both on the inside and outside the axle hubs to center the wheel where I wanted it. Once done, I slipped the O-ring on, adjusted it so the wheels would spin freely (I spun 'em a lot to make sure the O-ring stayed in place)! After being assured it was going to work, I installed the 8-spoked hub cap, checked the air pressure, and I'm good to go!

After all the pre-fab was done, I took the wheels apart and sprayed them with Krylon Metallic Bright Silver.

UP-DATE 11/29/2010: I change out the O-ring I was using to hold the wheel assembly on the axle with a 5/32" push nut.
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 15, 2010 @ 10:51 PM | 14,466 Views


After completing the Flaps and the 1-Piece wing mods I proceeded to get started on the wiring, and getting the electronics located where I wanted them.

Because of the cramped quarters in the cockpit, I thought that nifty recessed box in the wings was a perfect place to install the LG sequencer and the Landers Nav Light Controller. This worked out great as I was able to combine both the aileron and flap leads into 1 which only took up 6 of the 14 pins on the 14-Pin multiplex connector I was going to use. I then combined both the B and C leads for both of the LG assemblies to the sequencer thus eliminating another set of Y-Connectors. I then ran the sequencer lead to 3 more pins on the multiplex. The switched lead for the Landers Controller took up 3 more pins, and that left me 2 pins to hook up leads to the tail light. The leads for the landing light will come up thru the cavity just behind the box and run directly to the controller.

The multiplex connector comes up thru the opening in the fuse, and plugs into the RX already mounted in the cockpit. WaaLaa, no Y-harnesses and annoying excess wiring hanging around and cluttering up the cockpit! It looks like the only 2 Y-connectors I will need is the one combining the rudder and tail wheel steering servos to the RX, and the other to combine the tail wheel to the LG lead. That will work fine as they'll be tucked away somewhere in the tail.

This plane is fast becoming my favorite!

UP-DATE 11/28/
...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 14, 2010 @ 01:20 AM | 15,117 Views
Now that the flaps are done, the servo sockets cut, the wiring ran for the Nav lights, and the holes cut for the Ma Duece guns, it's was time to glue the 2 wings together and make them a 1-Piece unit.



Because of the gull wing configuration, I picked to spots, one aft and one forward (as illustrated in thumb #1). I utilize (2) .3940" O.D. CF Tubing for spars, (1) 4" long for the aft location and (1) 8" for the LE location. To line up the holes on both halves I cut 2 pieces of 3/8" X 1/2" brass tubing and pressed them in the chosen location on one of the wings. I then lined the other wing up and squeezed the two together to leave an indexed impression in both wings. Knowing I was going to be using Gorilla glue with it's expansion properties, drilling the (4) 3/8" holes in the two wing halves didn't have to be in perfect alignment, but I did manage to get that process done to my satisfaction.

I then cut a 1/8" ply plate 2 1/2" X 3 5/8" to go in the base of the box for additional reinforcement and to serve as a foundation for the velcro I would use to secure the electronics I plan to mount in there.

After applying the GG in the spar channels and wing mating surfaces I secured the wings back on the fuse to insure a perfect alignment. To help corral the GG I ran some tape down the seams of the wings to subdue the GG expansion, and also put a strip of tape on the fuse to prevent any glue expansion from seeping out...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 08, 2010 @ 08:50 PM | 22,468 Views
In my opinion, the Flaps on the Corsair are AWESOME!


F4U Corsair Flaps (1 min 49 sec)


I have started the mod, and the starboard wing has been cut, channeled, hinged and pinned.

TIP: The design of the flaps being divided into 3 pieces on the Corsair was:
1: Because of the gull wing design it required the inner & center flaps to be separate by design of course.
2: The center & outer flaps were divided so the wings of the Corsair could fold up for storage on aircraft carriers.

The point I'm making here is....If your not freaky about scale, and you have no intention of making the wings fold up, which would be quite tricky with foam, then it would NOT be necessary to cut the center/outer flaps apart! They can be left as a 1-piece unit and still function.

Here are some preliminary pics of what I've done so far!

UP-DATE 11/11/2010: I've completed the starboard wing flaps today. I decided to go with the Dubro Heavy Duty Hinge & Cotter Pin . They worked out great when it came time to do the gluing. I was able to remove the cotter pins and separate the pieces while the CA dried so it wouldn't seep into the hinges. It will also allow the removal of one of the flaps if need be?

I used a piece of .020 High Impact Styrene 1 1/2" x 2" for the stiffener between flap 1 and flap 2. I ended up pinning flaps 2 and 3 with some CF rod and glued them together. I liked how solid this made flaps 2 & 3 that I decided to make...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 05, 2010 @ 11:10 PM | 14,472 Views
I am going to utilize the Ramoser 3-Blade VarioPROP with the Corsair.



With the VarioPROP the options are open to what combination will work best with the SK 580. In these pics I am showing the 15" scale blades and the recommended 13" scale blades.

I will also be able to install a 4-Blade hub, and have the option of running 4 x 13's, or go to a 2-Blade set-up, and experiment with 2 x 13", or 2 x 14" speed blades, or even 2 of the 15" blades?

My plans are to run a 5S lipo with this set-up, and as soon as it arrives I will post performance specs. respectively.

UP-DATE 12/07/2010: I thought I would preview additional options the VarioPROP offers for the Corsair. In addition to the 3-Blade set-up, I can also install the 4-Blade hub, and experiment with either the 13" & 15" Scale blades, or the 14" Speed blades which I will probably use in a 2-Blade configuration?...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 05, 2010 @ 10:40 PM | 13,993 Views


This mod took a little more time to complete as I had to split the forward section of the fuse so I could re-align the firewall correctly. Once everything was glued back in place I could then design the a new motor mount for the SK 580 to fit the Corsair.

I once again used the X mount that came with the motor. I then designed a firewall mount and then joined them together with aluminum tubes.

UP-DATE: 1/23/2011:
I've updated the attachments to show how I attach the motor mount to the firewall. I've also included pics of the TGY SK 5055-580kv retaining shaft collar that comes with the newer motors.

UP-DATE 2/16/2011: I received the up-dated Turnigy/FMS motor mount from Gary at CustomRC yesterday and wanted to post some illustrations of various options this new mount has to offer for those who have chosen to use the Turnigy motors in the FMS 1400 Warbirds.

I'm pretty sure this mount will adapt to other manufactured motors, but all I have are the Turnigy's, so that's why I'm using them as examples....Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 05, 2010 @ 10:18 PM | 13,057 Views
I had to make some exhaust stacks for this bird. It only seemed right!

I used a combination of 1/2" x .014 brass tubing for the housing, and some 7/32" x .014 aluminum tubing for the exhaust stacks. Once I had the correct lengths and the pieces epoxied together I cut and sanded them to a 30dg. angle.

I then painted the assemblies with Dupli-Color dull aluminum and flat black in the exhaust tips.
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 05, 2010 @ 09:41 PM | 14,599 Views
Once again "Goofie" was excused and sent home. His replacement is the ESM WW II American pilot. Some serious surgery had to be done so he could fit in the cockpit.

To repaint the interior I first removed the blue paint with compressed air and a needle valve air gun. Once I got all the paint off I sprayed a coat of Dupli-Color Adhesion Promoter CP199 to seal the foam. I then painted the interior glare shield with Krylon Semi-Gloss Black. The interior was airbrushed using Model Master Interior Green FS34151, and the seat with MM Leather. I then did a pin stripe down both sides to simulate some aluminum channel with MM Bright Silver. The canopy was tinted with Ritz Royal Blue.



I followed John/Allelectric's hatch mod and cut the forward cowling to open up the battery compartment. When I'm done with all the mods and ready to repaint the plane I'll secure the forward hatch to the cockpit with glue and a couple of CF rods and make it 1-piece. I'll retain the 2 magnets to hold the cockpit/hatch assembly in place, and make a retainer piece for the front of the hatch to secure it to the cowl so internal air pressure won't blow it off.

UP-DATE 11/21/2010: I've got the Battery Hatch mod done. I made a retainer plate for the front of the hatch to secure it in place. Because the lower foam lip at the front of the fuse was a little feeble, I made a 3/32" ply plate to reinforce that area and glued it in with GG.

I had to enlarge the...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Oct 16, 2010 @ 10:33 PM | 16,787 Views
The New FMS F4U Corsair!



I just received this BIG Beautiful Plane today, and I thought I would give my preliminary evaluation of it!

First off I will say that FMS has done their homework on this one. They seem to have addressed a few issues in some areas, and still lack in others.

The lackies:
--They are persistent with "Goofie" although they did cut him in half! That's okay, he was easier to remove then he was in the JUG, so he's already gotten his papers and was sent packing!
--The funkie tail wheel is still there, and like the JUG, there is no foam plug for easy removal like the Mustang has. But from what I learned with the JUG, I think I can work around it?
--Because I ordered the airframe from RC Castle, it came with all the servos. I haven't checked them yet?
--The elevator is once again the twin push-rod linkage.
--I couldn't tell at this point if it's the paint, or the rudder hinge is already showing signs of foam dilapidation? Easily fixed with hinges.
--The cockpit area is going to be a bit cramped for electronics, and if the servo tray has to be removed the fuse will have to be split. There is only one opening in the engine compartment for ventilation, and it runs thru the battery compartment (again, no exit to vent in the rear).
--IMO, I don't think the rake mod is going to work on this bird, as it will screw the alignment up in the wheel wells. On that note, I'm not sure the VQ struts are going to work...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Oct 16, 2010 @ 06:59 PM | 18,242 Views
This is my...~Utility Hanger!~

I'm going to use this page for all my miscellaneous stuff! I get a lot of request for pics and info of something I've done, so I'll post that here as well.

This page will be UP-DATED quite frequently, so if there's something you like, copy/paste it to your 'puter, 'cuz it may not be here next week?


UP-DATE 2/11/2013: Canopy Slider!



I thought I would share some info on how to make a simple canopy slider.

In anticipation of getting my new FMS P-51B I thought I might venture into the possibility of mounting a Malcolm canopy, and make it slide. To do so I needed info on how to accomplish this task so I contacted Lou/LDM "Pilot is now in!!" and was able to get some valuable info from him. He led me to the Evergreen site where I was able to obtain info on the pieces I would need. Once I knew what I needed, I paid a visit to Hobbytown USA, the LHS in Springfield, and was able to acquire the 2 pieces I would need. First I needed the Rectangular Tubing #EVG258, and then a couple strips of H Channel #EVG287. Now all I needed to do is get them to interact with each other?

A slot needs to be cut in the rectangular tube so the H channel will slide inside. Lou suggested using a Dremel cut-off wheel, but I found trying to accomplish that task a bit daunting, especially when trying to keep a straight slot for 14"!

Awhile back I had purchased one of those 4" Mity Mite saws from HFT thinking it would save...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Oct 16, 2010 @ 06:57 PM | 11,056 Views
This is my Build Log of the.... FMS 57" P-47 Thunderbolt "Jacky's Revenge"!






Motor.....
ESC.......
BEC.......Castle Creations 10A
Lipo.......

Servos:
Ailerons....HXT900 9g
Flaps........HXT900 9g
Elevator....HiTec HS-82MG
Rudder.....Hextronic MG-14

E-Tracts.....PZ15091/514
Struts.......40-120 Aluminum oleo P-51
Tail Wheel..Handmade

Recommended CG is 80-85mm from LE.

Following throws are from a fellow forum member:
Ailerons: 1/2" each way
Elevator: 3/4" each way low rate __1 1/2" each way high rate only for taxi to keep the tail planted.
Rudder: As much as you can get
Flaps: As much as you can get
Posted by Sandancer | Oct 16, 2010 @ 06:54 PM | 9,929 Views

Posted by Sandancer | Oct 16, 2010 @ 06:52 PM | 10,733 Views


UP-DATE 2/13/2011: Got back on the JUG this past week, and got some work done on the 'ole girl's Tail Feathers!

I cut the control surfaces in preparation of re-hinging both the elevator and rudder. But first I needed to install a spar so I routered a groove to install the .220 x .092 flat CF. I glued the spar in with GG, and once cured, I filled with Squadron putty and sanded smooth.

Once the spar was done I started on the hinging. I used some pivot point hinges on the rudder, and some of these Super Lite hinges from HK. This is the first time I have used these, but I must say I do like their concept. They slip in just like a regular pinned or CA hinge. They have a dam which keeps the CA from getting on the pivot section, and were easy to install.

After getting the hinging done, I set out to install the .092 joiner rod on the two control surfaces to eliminate the dual push rod set-up....Continue Reading