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Posted by beladog | May 22, 2011 @ 05:23 PM | 6,552 Views
Ok so here is an abbreviated how to.
striking similarities between other models exist so many steps will work with other cameras as well. For example the A/V inputs etc etc.

This will remove the heavy cumbersome case and create a plug and play, FPV ready, Live out feeding, True HD camera, that is every bit as advanced and capable as a Go Pro, but only half the weight and much more streamlined!
If along the way you need more detail or explanation please feel free to post a comment with your question and I will modify the thread.

For now I will explain the basics which will get you well under way. I will go into much more detail with advanced techniques for really stripping down the camera and knocking off about another 15g! in just a few days as time permits.
Good Luck!!!

All the pictures are labeled with basic instructions and the picture descriptions go into a little more detail. Please read both carefully
If you do not own a LEAD FREE soldering station I would Highly recommend getting one. All the Solder on EVERY Aiptek is lead free. Adversly you should only be replacing/using a blend of leaded solder For all the steps below. I use and recommend 60/40 rosin core. Radio shack still carries this and its the best for strength and ease of use..032 is a great size for all your RC needs from .050 needle work up to 8gauge battery wire!

here is where I got IMO the best station money can buy at a price...Continue Reading
Posted by beladog | Mar 05, 2011 @ 01:04 AM | 11,415 Views
Here is an inexpensive ($40) way I use my PC's monitor as a stand alone, wireless, portable fpv monitor without making any internal mods.
The process is straight forward, requires only minor soldering and can be completed in about 1hr. Best part, you can switch it back for desktop use in about 10 seconds.

1) Find a monitor.
Most, if not all of you have a flat screen monitor by now, and if you still have a 40lb box taking up valuable desk real estate, then now is a really good time and a great excuse to go update your fifteen year old dinosaur to a sweet new flatty.
These can be had at insane prices at geeks.com, frys, Newegg.com etc etc.
here is a prime example.
Look around a bit, this was the first link I clicked.

All Flat screen LCD monitors run off 12-16V D/C and most use A/C wall adapters. This is great news!
Disconnect the monitor's cord from the wall and the monitor and cut the cable about 12" from the plug that goes into the back of the monitor. There will be two wires, either color or stripe coded for +/- and if you are not sure you can plug the socket into the wall and carefully test the bare leads with your volt meter. Wire a male Deans to the the monitor side and a Female plug on the wall end. Now you can still use the wall adapter when you want to use the monitor indoors as you would before the conversion.
Plug a 3S LiPo into the monitor's new plug and press the power button. You should...Continue Reading
Posted by beladog | Mar 04, 2011 @ 04:14 PM | 6,947 Views
I love the removable tail on my FpVz Star and thought it would be a fun conversion for the Fun Cub.

Here is how I went about it.

Perhaps the most important thing to remember is NOT to glue the tail wheel mount "plug"/"insert" into the fuse tail. This can be pressure fitted just fine and if glued will render the removable tail useless as you will not be able to remove it....Continue Reading
Posted by beladog | Oct 02, 2010 @ 03:52 AM | 7,456 Views
Instructions and tips for operating the
Hd Fpv Camera

AHD+/PRO models
1). Plug the Video (Yellow) servo connector into your video display device (i.e. Video Transmitter, OSD or adapted A/V cables provided with your camera). Take note of the wire color. Black is ground and White is video signal wire. Please make sure they match the receiving plug. Installing these backward will damage your camera and void warranty.

2). Plug the Audio (black, female housing) connector into your Audio receiving device (i.e.video transmitter or adapted A/V cable provided with your camera). Take note of the wire color. Red is Ground and White is Audio signal wire.

3).Plug the Red Power Plug into your power source (i.e. on board receiver or any 4.8V source (5VMax).

4).instal the loose "control knob" microchip into the main camera housing if it is not already installed, so it is centered on the housing.

5). Depress the small button on the end of the black twisted wires. If this is wrapped inside of heatshrink tubing, pinch with fingers until a small click is felt. At this point two Blue LED indicator lights on the small removable "control knob" chip should be lit up solid.
Pro models will have one blue led lit.

6)*. (See 6.1 below for Pro models)
Access "A/V Out" function and "ready" your camera (A-HD+ models) by pressing the control knob "Down Once", then press "In Once".
If your
...Continue Reading