This shows how I made an adapter so I could fit the stock FMS 4-Blade prop to a the SK 5055-580kv motor.

I turned my own Domed Spinner out of some 1 1/4" aluminum stock. I tapped it with 8mm x 1.25 threads so it would screw on the C42 prop adapter. Unfortunately the C42 prop adapter that comes with the SK 5055-580 motor has a shaft that is only 30mm long. This is not long enough to fit thru the FMS 3-Blade, so I made my own 40mm x 8mm prop adapter.

I now have the option to use my own spinner or use the VarioPROP 1201.

UP-DATE 1/12/2011: There seems to be some confusion pertaining to the TGY prop adapters fitting the various FMS prop configurations. I've added some pics to illustrate the different prop adapter to prop combination's.

UP-DATE 1/23/2011: I received the *NEW* FMS 4-Blade hub and blades, and after prepping them I thought I would see how that looked on the P-47?
The hub and spinner are plastic so time will tell if they hold hold up, but the assembly does visually look pretty good!

Upon prepping the blades with the Hamilton Standard Logos and ID numbers I did notice another contribution I seemed to have made to the on going development of the FMS line of Warbirds! I'm so proud!!...Continue Reading

Okay! With the motor centered and the Cowl mod completed, I needed to find a 4-Blade prop for the Jug.

The only viable solution I could find was the VarioPROP by Ramoser.

I must say, this thing is Kewl! You can adjust the blade pitch to suit your needs for whatever application you desire. Although not scale because of the spinner, I could run this on the P-51 if I wanted too. It comes with a gauge, pointer and ball headed hex driver to aid in the pitch adjustments. Blades and spinners are extra, but blade replacement is reasonable.

What I have is the 4-Blade 12C adjustable hub suitable for an 8mm prop adapter. The blades recommended for my application with the P-47/580 motor was the 13 x 9 #353-12 (I said 352-12 in the video). These 13 x 9's actually measure 14" from tip to tip. The Dome Spinner is the #1201 aluminum spinner which attaches to the prop shaft with a 3mm countersink tap screw. Because the 580 prop shaft would have to be drilled and tapped to accept this screw, I decided to stick to my SAE standards and went with a 6/32" SS countersink button head set screw (I also have a lot of these in stock)!

TIP: If you should decide you want to go with a 2-Blade set-up, simply remove 2 of the blades in the 4-Blade hub. With a range of 10" to 15" blades in both "Speed" & "Scale" in the 12C hub, the options are wide open to whatever application you would want to try! Just keep in mind that...Continue Reading

I noticed while doing the Cowl mod how severe the motor mount was out of alignment.

To correct this I made a wider firewall mount for the SK 580 motor mount so I could move the whole assembly 1/4" to the left (facing engine), and still be able to use the 2 screw holes on the right side of the firewall. Because I already had the 2 dg. thrust built into the mount, it was simply a matter of moving the mount to the left.

Once done, the prop shaft now exits the engine compartment dead center.

I just couldn't adapt to that "Picket Fence" looking thing FMS was calling their WASP replica, so I set out to try and come up with something better!

My first attempt was a 3 1/2" vacuum formed replica of the Pratt&Whitney 18 Cyl. WASP engine, but I found it to be to small! So I then tried the 4 1/2" replica and it was to big! A 4" would be just right, but I haven't been able to find one, so I got my trust scissors out and made the 4 1/2" fit!

I knew this experiment would get costly if I continued to order these vacuum formed replicas, so that directed me in another direction....vacuum forming my own! I am still in the learning process, but until I get it right, what I have now will have to do.

I also wanted to make an air duct to sit below the engine. I took a piece if 1/2" balsa and started cutting, carving and sharpening it to what I wanted. Once I got the mold/buck/plug, whatever you want to call it, to where I wanted it, I had to cast a mold, and then used 2 part epoxy resin to make the finished duct. I'm not going to get into all of that for now, I'll just let these pics illustrate what I've come up with so far, and I'll update later.

One annoying thing I did notice while I was trying to complete this mod was the radical off-set FMS has incorporated into the motor mount placement of this plane. I solved the issue by relocating the motor mount on the firewall. I have more info on that mod in the...Continue Reading

The PZ 15091/514 E-Tracts with the Aluminum 40-120 P-51 Struts.

P-47_Landing Gear_3-05-2011 (2 min 34 sec)

UP-DATE 10/02/2010: I received the HK/PZ E-Tracts yesterday, and decided to see what changes I could achieve to make them work with the P-47?

UP-DATE 11/30/2010: I have the 3" Robart Goodyear ribbed tires with the scale 8-Spoked wheels installed on the Jug. I had to grind off about 1/16" from the VQ strut to assure clearance against any potential tire rub.

UP-DATE 2/13/2011: I have decided to take a new direction on both the E-Tracts and the struts on the JUG.

Without a great deal of modifications I was able to fit the PZ 514s in the wing sockets quite nicely. I made a couple of mounting plates out of 3/16" ply, and used the 2 outward attachment pins to anchor the plates in nice and tight while the epoxy cured. I cut a couple of shims to give them a bit of forward rake and that was it.

I've had a pair of these 40-120 Class Offset Oleo Struts for P51 Mustang from RC Skylite for quite some time now, and I thought the JUG was a perfect candidate for them. Although they are listed for the P-51, the wheel offset is not scale for the Mustang. But!....I got to thinking, the JUG retracts the LG with the wheels first in to the wheel wells! Sure enough, with the Robart Goodyears attached, they retracted nice a flush in the wells. The 5mm strut legs fit perfect in the 514s so everything was coming along nicely....Continue Reading

PRODUCT UP-DATE 9/23/2010: It was brought to my attention that the black wing joiner rod is in fact fiberglass, and NOT Carbon Fiber! To check for yourself, use an ohm meter. CF is conductive, fiberglass is not!

I am discovering many issues with the wings, so I'm sure as the build goes on I will be up-dating this page!

There are 2 specific ways to secure the wings to the fuse, but neither Nitro or FMS devotes very little info on either procedure, so I've posted them along with additional mods I have made.

FMS has installed 4 spar clamps in the wings to secure the black fiberglass rod in place. There are access holes in the under side of the wing to tighten the screws.
NOTE: All 4 of these clamps came off while I was doing the rod support mod. I reattached them using 2-ton epoxy, so I would suggest checking these out!

Along with the spar clamps, there is an embedded plastic plate in the under-side at the wing root. Upon further observation, there is a channel running down from inside the fuse, thru the wing root flange directly towards that plastic plate. I assume this is another way FMS incorporated a way to attach the wings to the fuse?

I made end plates to alleviate any stress on the foam where the black fiberglass rod passes thru the fuse much like I did on the P-51. In this instance I used CF, but 1/8" -3/8" ply would accomplish the same results. I also installed a 3 1/2" long K&S 7/16" x .014 brass tube...Continue Reading

The first thing I did was eject "Goofie"!

His replacement is the WW II American pilot.

I plan to repaint and detail the cockpit, and tint the canopy.

UP-DATE 3/06/2011: I finished up re-painting the cockpit, and just need to do the canopy tint....Continue Reading

I've built my own pylons to attach my 500lb. Bombs or optional Drop Tanks on the wings.

The pylons extend far enough back that they will secure the spar/wiring channel cover in place. I haven't decided if I want to glue that cover in yet?

UP-DATE 3/02/2011: I finally got the bomb pylons finished and installed. Although I can make these pylons functional, I'm going to leave them static for the time being.

I didn't like the plastic tubed "machine guns" so I decided to make my own.

I know the original "Ma Duece" guns were black, but I like the way these came out!

What I did to make everything fit tight was first I cut 8 pieces of the original plastic gun tubes about 3/4" long then sanded them to fit the contour of the wing edge, that is the black lip you see. Then I cut the 8 gun barrels to scale length using 5/16" aluminum tubing. I still didn't like the size of the barrels so I took 8 pieces of 3/16" aluminum tubing 1" long, and used a small countersink end mill and a 1/8" drill bit to create the muzzle openings. Everything held together with CA Gel. I got a little counter-reaction when some glue came in contact with the black paint, but after everything cures I'll go back and clean up with some Acetone!

I have the wing tip Nav Lights installed.

Also have the Landing Light built and waiting install.

UP-DATE 10/21/2010: I got the landing light installed. A Landing Light would be a great way to observe orientation of the plane when in flight in addition to the wing tip Nav Lights.