When I first started flying, I saw these guys with these awesomely fast little screamer pusher prop jets. Their speed was impresive and the sound was unbelievable. Right away, I knew I had to have one but wanted to get some experience in first. Now that I have a few planes under my belt and like to think I have developed some reasonably decent piloting skills, the time has come... Behold the newest member of my hangar.
I knew stock white wasn't going to cut it. Not only is in not the most visible color, but I wanted mine to stand out from the crowd. I chose bright color with a high contrast for good visibility and to aid in identifying proper orientation. I must admit that the paint scheme is not entirely my concept. I have seen so many nice paint jobs that I took the best ideas from multiple planes and incorporated them into mine.
The first step in the build process was prepping for paint. I knew I didn't want all those ugly pock marks all over my new plane, so I sanded everything with 220 grit to get rid of them. After the sanding, I installed the wing spar and glued the wings on. I filled in the channel for the spar with light spackel and sanded it. I propably could have done a better job sanding but this is going to be a flyer, not a show piece. Finally, it was time for paint. I used Krylon Fusion paint and applied a very light base coat first, then numerous additional coats on top of that. I applied the yellow to the top first, then masked off the...Continue Reading
I knew stock white wasn't going to cut it. Not only is in not the most visible color, but I wanted mine to stand out from the crowd. I chose bright color with a high contrast for good visibility and to aid in identifying proper orientation. I must admit that the paint scheme is not entirely my concept. I have seen so many nice paint jobs that I took the best ideas from multiple planes and incorporated them into mine.
The first step in the build process was prepping for paint. I knew I didn't want all those ugly pock marks all over my new plane, so I sanded everything with 220 grit to get rid of them. After the sanding, I installed the wing spar and glued the wings on. I filled in the channel for the spar with light spackel and sanded it. I propably could have done a better job sanding but this is going to be a flyer, not a show piece. Finally, it was time for paint. I used Krylon Fusion paint and applied a very light base coat first, then numerous additional coats on top of that. I applied the yellow to the top first, then masked off the...Continue Reading
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I used electrical tape to cover the servo wires and to hold down the servo covers. -
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Here is the top of the turtle deck where I cut in the access hatch. The fit is very snug. -
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I used a popsicle stick, cut in half, for the front and a couple of magnets in the back to secure it. The fit is good and snug. Even without the magnets, I'm not sure it would go anywhere. I would have used a hatch latch but my LHS doesn't carry them. -
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I used another piece popsicle stick for a handle on the hatch. I cut a slit through the foam and used CA to glue in a piece of the stick so just enough to grab would protrude through the top. -
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I glued in a piece of 1/16 ply for a battery tray. I will use some velcro adhesive along the bottom, plus, secure in a velcro strap, as soon as I determine where the battery will need to be for propper CoG. I plan on running a 2200 30C 3S pack for now.
After building my new J-Power P-38 Lightning from Banana Hobby, the first thing I noticed was how nice it flew. The second thing I noticed was how underpowered it was. Fortunately, there is something we can do about that...
I obtained a couple of BP A2810-11 motors. These are 35-28 1200Kv, with a suggested operating draw of around 300W. Static tested individually, with the stock 3-blade 9.5x7 props, they drew around 380W at around 30A.
Below are some pics and details of the motor mounting process...
Everything works great. I did some quick static testing and with 2 2200 30C packs in parallel (the way I plan to fly this setup) the two motors combined with the stock props pull around 650W at around 55A. I am using two Hobbywing 30A ESCs.
CoG is pretty much unchanged. I have only done the fingertip method thus far, but will get a more accurate measurement after I build my CoG stand. AUW with the two batteries is ~53 oz. This is only 4 oz. more that it was with stock motors and a single 3300 30C pack. With over a 50% increase in power, I expect some good performance. Now, I just have to wait for the rain to stop so I can fly.
I obtained a couple of BP A2810-11 motors. These are 35-28 1200Kv, with a suggested operating draw of around 300W. Static tested individually, with the stock 3-blade 9.5x7 props, they drew around 380W at around 30A.
Below are some pics and details of the motor mounting process...
Everything works great. I did some quick static testing and with 2 2200 30C packs in parallel (the way I plan to fly this setup) the two motors combined with the stock props pull around 650W at around 55A. I am using two Hobbywing 30A ESCs.
CoG is pretty much unchanged. I have only done the fingertip method thus far, but will get a more accurate measurement after I build my CoG stand. AUW with the two batteries is ~53 oz. This is only 4 oz. more that it was with stock motors and a single 3300 30C pack. With over a 50% increase in power, I expect some good performance. Now, I just have to wait for the rain to stop so I can fly.
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The new motors are longer than stock, so I had to shave off some foam. You can see the plastic inserts in the foam that the stock screws used. I used these to also attach the new firewall. -
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Here is the foam I removed, along with the plastic firewall. -
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I made new firewalls out of 1/4" ply. A little hack, but it works and is hidden beneath the cowl. I used 6-32 blind nuts for the motor mount. I would have used 4-40, but my LHS only had a single pack. -
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This is the BP 2810-11 motor, 35-28 1200Kv. I got the prop adapters from Tower and the shaft is 1". Just long enough to fit the backplate and stock prop hubs. I reamed both out to 1/4" to fit the adapter. -
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Here is the firewall, attached with two screws from the stock mount and Gorilla Glue. -
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The new motor all mounted up and ready to go. I used washers for spacers between the motor X-mount and the new firewall. -
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Another view of the mounted motor. -
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With the washers, I was able to get proper spacing between the spinner backplate and the cowl.

