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twinster2's blog
Posted by twinster2 | Mar 30, 2014 @ 09:23 PM | 1,929 Views
Its been almost two years since I started the Topflite AT-6. Well, construction is pretty much done now. Full flaps and retracts. The engine will be a OS 91 four stroke. Not sure if I will get it cover before the flying season since I have a Goldberg 40 size Anniversary Cub I need to cover first. I have a picture of it below.
Posted by twinster2 | Jun 03, 2013 @ 10:55 PM | 2,027 Views
Here is a picture of my B-17 coming in on final during our Memorial Day Flyin.
Posted by twinster2 | Mar 02, 2013 @ 09:02 PM | 2,283 Views
It been a while since I provided an update on the AT-6. The wing is essentially finished except for building the flaps. I decided to postpone the flaps and start building the fuselage. Overall it is a reasonably simple build but there were some steps where the instructions lacked a clear description and pictures, especially on how to finish off the top turtle deck/ tail section. Anyway, I did a little guessing and feathered the turtle deck around the verticle fine. It may not be scale but it looks nice. Here are a few pictures.
Posted by twinster2 | Dec 27, 2012 @ 11:01 PM | 2,931 Views
My son and I just completed a modification to his Futaba 8U. It has been Spektrumized with a DM-8 Spektrum transmitter module, however not in the way it was originally designed. In this case, instead of using the awful looking add-on Spektrum antenna and external RF cable, we use of a Frsky 2.4 antenna and some fancy internal wiring. Below are some pictures. Note that there is no loose RF cable external to the case and the antenna fits nicely out the top. Also, I added a bit of shrink tubing around the RF cable to avoid any contact interference. The last pic shows the spektrum module inserted into the back of the 8U with the frsky antenna stick out the top. The Spektrum and Frsky antennaes are the same size and rating and the connector type used on both RF cables are the same. And yes we had the module for less than a day and voided the warranty by drilling a hole thru the back of it.
Posted by twinster2 | Dec 27, 2012 @ 08:05 PM | 2,884 Views
During the Christmas holiday I was able to get a little more work done on the AT-6 wing. I was able to add the air control valve and air tubing for the retracts. I also sheeted the top center section and fitted th ABS wheel cowling to the wing. I included some pictures of these activities. With respect to the air control valve, as you can see it is mounted behind the wing spar. I added a hatch on the bottom of the wing so that the valve and control servo can be removed for maintance.
Posted by twinster2 | Dec 14, 2012 @ 12:35 AM | 2,823 Views
Well its been about a month since I last updated this blog and I would like to share with you the progress I have been making on the AT-6. For the most part, the biggest hurtle of builing this plane has been finished, that of building the wing with the correct amount of washout on both sides to help prevent tip stalling. During wing construction, I elected to build the wing with the option of split flaps and retracts. The flaps on the AT-6 use two servos in the outer wing panels to pull the flaps down. One unique feature of the AT-6 flaps are they go from a portion of the outer wing panel and all the way across the center section to the other outer wing panel. What that means is the flaps are also effective under the fuselage. As for the retracts, they will be the old Rohm air system with the air tank and control valve built into the wing. Below are a series of pictures that show the wing build from ribs to almost completely sheeted. The last picture show the 2 degrees of washout that is built into the wing tips.
Posted by twinster2 | Nov 20, 2012 @ 01:39 PM | 2,851 Views
Well a new winter is approaching and it was time to start buiding a new plane. After thinking about it for awhile this summer, I decided after the scratch build B-17 that I wanted something a little easier. So have mauling it over for awhile, I decided to build the discontinued Gold Edition Top Flite AT-6 I bought 10 years ago. I have decided that the plane will have scale flaps and retracts with careful attention focused on keeping the wings true with the identical amount of washout in each side. The washout is important for the AT-6 because I think a lot of builders forget this and the result is a snap happy model. The plane will have a wing span of 69 inches and will be powered by a OS 91 fours stroke. I hope to keep the weight to about 8.5 pounds. So far I have built the tail feathers and center wing section. Note that the retract air tank is built into the center wing section. Whenever I can I build the air tank into the wing in order to eliminate air line connectors bewteen the fuselage and wing. Below is a couple of pictures of the
Posted by twinster2 | Aug 14, 2012 @ 12:37 AM | 3,157 Views
Here are a couple of snapshot that I took from my B-17. The video turned out to be crap due to camera vibration, but I was able to salvage a few stills. One shows me standing on the ground controling the plane during a flyby. The other two wer take from about 400 feet showing some landscape in the background.
Posted by twinster2 | Aug 05, 2012 @ 04:02 PM | 3,324 Views
Here is my latest video of my B-17 flying. I mounted a camera to the wing tip to get this effect.

B-17 over River Oaks Park (1 min 24 sec)

Posted by twinster2 | May 19, 2012 @ 09:58 PM | 3,949 Views
Below is a link to an extended length video of the maiden take off, flyby and landing of my my all electric Royal B-17. Enjoy.
Posted by twinster2 | May 18, 2012 @ 12:31 AM | 3,641 Views
Finally, the maiden flight of the B-17 happened on Thursday evening. It flew very scale like. Here is a video link of a flyby.
Posted by twinster2 | Apr 05, 2012 @ 12:13 AM | 3,884 Views
I've been using the Frsky 2.4 sytem on my Futaba 8UAF for about six months. It works great for my small electrics and heli. The only downside has been the annoying antenna coming out of the back of the module. Not a huge deal, but I wanted a cleaner installation. Anyway, I decided to clean it up a bit by having the antenna come out the original antenna hole. I first order a 200 mm RF cable from Frsky. Next I found some plastic tubing that I could get the clip end of the cable through. I did this so the RF cable would be protected. I bent the tubing with a heat gun, threated a nut about 1/2 inch on one end, painted it black. I then removed the back of the transmitter, drilled a hole at the right position. I wrapped the antenna base with a little masking tape, and forced it from inside out into the TX antenna hole until it was a nice tight fit. I routed the antenna cable through the bent plastic tube and into the back of the module case and threated on another nut on the inside to hold the tube tightly (note I had already removed the back of the Frsky module and removed the original antenna and unclipped it from the module's electronic board. Now after routing the longer RF cable from the antenna, through the TX hole and plastic tubing and into the back of the module case, I clipped it to the module's board and reassembled the TX module. Then after a little trial and error to get the tubing the correct length so it goes just inside the TX case. Be aware, that if you drill the hole to low, you end up being on top of the speaker which is why I did the trial and error fitting at the end. Anyway, below are a couple of pictures to help you see what I did.
Posted by twinster2 | Mar 07, 2012 @ 01:52 PM | 3,770 Views
I have tried many times to post videos directly to my blogs, and always I'm told I can not add videos here. Hence the reason I have links to the gallery. However I see several blogs entries with videos attached. How are you able to do it?
Posted by twinster2 | Mar 03, 2012 @ 07:00 PM | 4,125 Views
Although I have 3-4 years from retirement, I have already started to think about what I will be doing aftewards. The pictures below should give you a hint. And no, they are not for sale, unless I kick off and my wife decides to liquidate. In second thought, I think they will be burried with me. (Ha. Ha)
Posted by twinster2 | Feb 14, 2012 @ 11:54 PM | 4,421 Views
It has been about 18 months since I started this project and I can now say it is finally finished! had a great time building this plane and enjoyed updating everyone on my progress over the past months. Since I live in Michigan, I don't anticipate the maiden flight until May. I haven't decided yet if I want to put on the belly turret, but if I do, it will have to be removed before flight because it would likely hit the grass runway. Anyway, below are some pictures of the finished poduct. Enjoy.
Posted by twinster2 | Feb 08, 2012 @ 09:44 PM | 4,894 Views
Well I been working hard to finish the B-17 for the show on the 18th. I decided to start working on decals. I purchased the stars and bars, and made others from monokote and a few (like the waist gunner and nose art) using testor decal maker. Below is a picture of how it looks so far.

Also, I just finished decals, etc on the starboard side.
Posted by twinster2 | Feb 04, 2012 @ 11:10 PM | 3,884 Views
Finished painting the exteriors of two of the motors flat black. Have added them to the nacelles, along with their cowlings. Looks great. The flat black makes the motors disappear inside the cowls.
Posted by twinster2 | Feb 04, 2012 @ 12:21 AM | 4,307 Views
Well it's been an exciting week with the B-17. I was able to finish covering the nacelles and wing this week, install the ailerons and paint the firewalls flat black ( I also plan on painting the motors flat black so they "vanish" inside the cowls. The B-17 is really starting to come together. I need to add some markings and stars & bars, some 50 cal. machine guns and maybe a belly turret. I plan on showing the plane at my club's Swap Meet at the Kalamazoo, Michigan Fairgrounds on February 18. Below are a couple of pictures of the wing.
Posted by twinster2 | Jan 27, 2012 @ 01:42 AM | 4,410 Views
How could something so simple as painting cowlings take so much time and effort. OK, I haven't painted that many fiberglass cowls in my lifetime, but how hard could it be? It started off easy enough. I first wanted to paint the insides flat black. So I cut holes in a cardboard box big enough to fit most of the cowl through, taped the top outside edge of the cowl so as not to get any paint on the outside of it. I then used rustolium flat black spray paint and hit is with a couple of coats. Simple. The next step was to paint the outside of the cowls. Since I am using Aluminum Monokote, I decided to use Aluminum Lustrekote spray paint. Well my first mistake, was not filling in the pin holes in the fiberglass. It was pretty obvious after one coat that I should have used primer filler, unfortunately, I had already used up all of my spray paint and the results were pretty poor. So after a few days of drying, I decided to wet sand as much of the paint off as possible and then use sandable auto paint primer. I also got smart and decided to do one cowl at a time. So the first attempt was to spray primer on the cowl and use my finger while it was still wet to force the primer into the pin holes, that worked but the primer finish was very ruff. So get out the sand paper again. After sanding, I had a smooth surface with most of the holes filled and some areas of bare fiberglass and some areas of primer. I should have spray painted another coat of primer to have a...Continue Reading
Posted by twinster2 | Jan 22, 2012 @ 09:27 PM | 4,079 Views
For the past week I have been working on covering the engine nacelles and wing. So far I have been able to cover the lower halves of the four nacels and the bottom of the wing. I used that time to try out different approches to covering the nacelles. As most of you know, monokote is a real pain when it comes to compound curves and trying to cover the nacel as it feathers into the wing was a very difficult task while at the same time minimizing wrinkles and bubbles. Anyway, after much trial and error, I perfected a reasonable method which relied on running a strip of monokote long the edge where the nacel meets the wing. Then I used two inch strips of monokote to cover nacel. I used this on the top nacelles with good (not perfect) results. I have some pictures below.