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Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2015 @ 02:33 PM | 3,325 Views
Main discussion thread here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1540050

My Experiences:
After reading the main discussion thread on this Dynam SBach 342, it was obvious some mods would be needed to get it right for flying. But I'm not the type that typically cuts into brand new airplanes and starts over with new parts. I prefer to take the slow road and replace parts as they break or wear out.

On this one I did a little of both. On the maiden flight my pilot ejected 3 times. A close inspection revealed the canopy only had 1 pair of magnets in place. The 3 in the canopy were there but the 2 matching magnets on the side rails were missing. My pilot also didn't fare well on the ejections so a mod was required to keep her in her seat.

On the 2nd flight the plane hit a divit (grass field landing) and the gear came off during rollout. Except for some small dents under the wing where the LG hit on the way off, and of course the foam tear where the gear used to be, there was no damage.

On the 3rd flight the left AIL came back jammed in the down position. That was fun getting her safely on deck with full flaps in effect, on only 1 side.

The fuselage was modded prior to flying by covering as much as possible with clear packing tape. That included the plastic cowling, which got a layer of Extreme packing tape inside and clear on the outside. By some accounts, it is prone to breakage and not be in stock very often.

Where to buy:
NitroPlanes.com ARF $124.40 - http://...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Jan 13, 2015 @ 12:49 PM | 2,525 Views
POST 2 - Dynam Rapid Parts and alternate sources
POST 3 - Dynam Rapid Receiver and Stabilization systems
POST 4 - Dynam Rapid batteries
POST 5 - Transmitter (Tx) settings
POST 6 - Dynam Rapid Landing Gear, Wheels, Pants
POST 7 - Cowling and forward fuselage battery compartment modification
POST 8 - Dynam Rapid motor mount mod
POST 9 - Dynam Rapid Assembly
POST 10 - Dynam Rapid landing gear mod
POST 11 - WHEN COMPLETE, Dynam Rapid Flight Testing

What this plane is not:
I was looking for a small plane (under 30in wingspan) so I could fly around the yard without going to the park. This is not that plane. It is fast and not that easy to land in a small space. The motor is a peppy 1500Kv BL motor. The recommended battery is oversize for this small an airplane at 3S 11.1V 850mAh. It has unlimited vertical and amazing acceleration. This is a park flyer and not a back yard flyer unless your backyard is acres and acres of land.

What this plane is:
I already have the UMX E-flite Carbo Cub SS, but I was hoping for something I could yank and bank a little more in that small size class. This Dynam Rapid is that type of plane! It is also sturdy enough to take a hit. I've been flying planes for a year so I also didn't want a small profile requiring a lot of cutting and gluing CF rods. I wanted a plane that is fairly simple and easy to assemble. This is that. It goes together quickly and easily.

I've...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Dec 09, 2014 @ 08:13 AM | 3,321 Views
POST 1 - Table of Contents
POST 2 - Various Protocols used in RC
POST 3 - Futaba protocol
POST 4 - Walkera protocol
POST 5 - FrSky protocol
POST 6 - FlySky protocol
POST 7 - DSM2 & DSMX (Spektrum) protocols
POST 8 - Cheerson (YD717 protocol)
POST 9 - Various MicroChips used forRC in the 2.4MHz band
POST 10 - HiSky protocol

I have tried to write this thread is for others like me, i.e. non-geeks or non-hackers. I use that term affectionately. I admire the ability to understand software code and write it. And I admire those that understand electricity and how to wire things with diodes, transitors, etc. so they will do whatever you want. I have very little understanding of writing code or how to do much software installation unless it is written very plainly in English and in great detail. Wiring diagrams help very little unless they are very basic, but I really need actual pictures. I can solder enough to change out a battery terminal, but not much more. As I pick up bits & pieces of info here and there I will add it to my blog here.

Protocols have to do with how signals are formatted. Each protocol has its differences in the signal's format. Protocols are independent of frequencies. The major frequency bands used in RC are 1) the Citizens Band (CB) band and now 2) the 2.4GHz ISM (Independent, Scientific, Medical) band. The CB band includes some of the fixed frequencies from...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Oct 04, 2014 @ 08:41 AM | 4,820 Views
Disclaimer, etc. I received these parts independently and am not employed or compensated in any way by Heli-Factor or Hobby-Direct or anyone else to review these products. I have not had any direct or indirect contact with any interested party to promote these products. This is a completely independent review by me and hope it may help anyone interested in them.

This is a forum for the Heli-Factor aluminum upgrade parts for the WL Toys V913 helicopter. Comments are welcome. I will try to update the first 5 entries here as new info becomes available in order to keep it current.

Anyone interested in the V913 should also visit my blog here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2255975

and the V913 forum here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1791676


POST 2 - ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION Heli-Factor CNC Aluminum Swashplate, Rotor Hub & Main Blade Grips for the WLToys V913

POST 3 - POST INSTALLATION Heli-Factor CNC Aluminum Rotor Hub for the WLToys V913

POST 4 - POST INSTALLATION Heli-Factor Aluminum Main Blade Grips

POST 5 - POST INSTALLATION Heli-Factor Aluminum Swash Plate for V913

This is a review for the new Heli-Factor CNC aluminum parts for the WL Toys V913. They are sold by Hobby-Direct.com and ThinkRC.com. The Heli-Factor.com (HF) team has manufactured the new V913 parts using 6061-T6 aluminum alloy, and stainless steel linkage balls.

V913 CNC Aluminium Rotor Hub
Model :...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Sep 30, 2014 @ 08:52 AM | 4,584 Views
I started this entry in order to consolidate the many bits of info about the V913 that is scattered thoughout the main V913 discussion thread. Any comments concerning any new products or data about the V913 here are welcomed and may be incorporated to build a single point of reference for the V913.

Any questions or problems with the V913 should post them on the main discussion forum here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1791676

I have arbitrarily defined 3 "Versions" of the V913. Why? Because it has gotten so confusing as to which model parts are compatible with each other. This applies mainly to the BL motors and the BL ESCs and their corresponding PCBs. Hopefully this forum can help sort out the differences in the models offered. See POST 5 for more details on "Versions A, B & C".

---QUICK REFERENCE ON THE 8 V913 MODELS AVAILABLE AT BANGGOOD.COM in order of SKU # sequence releases (See POST 6 below for more details)---

1) BG SKU062422 - $102.55- V913 RTF - "Version A" brushed motors with a 1500mAh battery and a Tx

2) BG SKU075559 - $81.99 - V913 BNF - "Version A" brushed motors with a 1500mAh battery, NO Tx

3) BG SKU132652 - $118.99 - V913 RTF - "Version B" BL Main Motor, brushed tail motor with a 1500mAh battery, Tx.

...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Jul 22, 2014 @ 10:58 AM | 4,075 Views
This is a short description of types of foam used in the RC hobby. I've also included a link to a great forum for foam suppliers.

Foam suppliers. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...11&postcount=2

Types of Foam

Depron - very light weight, brittle; NOTcontact cement safe. DO NOT use Welders Adhesive or forms of contact cement with Depron.

Elapor - blended EPS & EPP

EPO (Expanded Polyolefine) - Horizon Hobby (HH) calls their form of EPO, Z-foam. Takes clear packing tape well. OK to use regular CA.

EPE (Expanded Polyethelene)

EPP Expanded Polypropylene - (pool noodles) low structural strength; covers with low temp coverings; shipping tape does NOT stick to very well; use a spray adhesive or FoamTac with blemderm, fiberglass tape (drywall type), NexCare, clear surgical tape to reinforce surfaces; breaks clean, high compression strength, poor tension strength; comes in 1.3#, 1.9# densities; Compatible with Epoxy, Regular CA or Goop glues and Acrylic paint;

EPS Expanded Polystyrene - high structural strength; sensitive to heat, CA, polyester resins; Compatible with Epoxy or Polyurethane glues; comes in 1#, 1.5#, 2.0# densities; HH uses EPS on most or all of their UMX airplanes. Do not use CA on EPS unless it is foam-safe.

XPS Extruded Polystyrene

FFF - acronym for Fan Fold Foam (more commonly used as an acronym for Fast Forward Flight)

Z-Foam - Horizon Hobby's form of EPO. Takes clear packing tape well. It does not require Foam-safe glue; regular CA is OK.
Posted by hifinsword | Jun 10, 2014 @ 02:45 PM | 4,193 Views
Recharging LiPo batteries - the 80% rule applies to the storage capacity or AMPERAGE of the BATTERY, NOT THE VOLTAGE of a battery. For a 1500mAh battery that means it should not be discharged more than 1200mAh (0.8x1500 = 1200, or 80% of 1500mAh). You won't know that until you recharge the battery. A good charger will tell you how many mAh it took to completely recharge the battery back to 4.2 volts per cell. It should then be at the full capacity of 1500mAh.

A good rule of thumb to use for how far to discharge or fly a battery, is the nominal voltages associated with each cell, i.e. 3.7 volts per cell. If you don't go below 3.7 volts per cell, you won't hit Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC) and damage your LiPo battery. Go below the LVC and you will most likely be putting back more than the 80% amp carrying capacity of your battery - NOT GOOD!

If you think you will be staying with this hobby, I recommend buying a quality BALANCE charger and stop using the cheap stock chargers that come with most RTF, ARF & BNF combos. They are OK in a pinch or on a trip where you don't want to carry a full blown charging setup. I won't recommend a charger or brand. New ones come out all the time but a good place to start is searching RCGs, or go to sites such as John Salt's for suggestions. http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-battery-chargers.html
Posted by hifinsword | May 28, 2014 @ 02:41 PM | 4,727 Views
Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on that forum here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1791676

I am using the FX052 tail motor and assembly rather than the stock V913 motor and assembly on both my V913s currently. One is on a raised and extended CF tail boom. The other is on a stock metal V913 tail boom.

The FX052 tail main and pinion gear sizes, and gear ratio allows the tail motor to work more efficiently than the stock V913 tail motor gears. I'm hoping it will last longer than the stock motor. I have 31 and 12 flights on each as of 12 June 2014.

I feel the FX052 tail motor gives me better tail control. The V913 tail boom is 10mm and the FX052 tail boom is 12mm so the replacement assembly needs to be shimmed onto the 10mm boom. Steve_ discusses the FX052 tail motor and assembly more here on Page 161 Post 2404: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2404

To use the FX052 tail motor you must also use the FX052 tail gear assembly. The tail motor mounts (screw holes) and the pinion gear are different from the stock V913 gear assembly. The FX052 tail motor pinion gear is too large to fit thru the opening of the V913 gear housing.

The FX052 tail gear assembly fits on a 12mm tail boom and the V913 uses a 10mm tail boom. Before you shim the FX052 tail gear assembly onto the V913 tail boom, you must melt a hole in the left side of the gear assembly to match the...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | May 13, 2014 @ 05:08 AM | 5,340 Views
Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on that forum here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1791676

These are the mods made to my #1 V913.

1) Swashplate mod. Hot glue and paper clip mod discussed in detail here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2139667
The new Heli-Factor aluminum swashplate (and main rotor hub & main blade holder) are discussed in my blog here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2258539

2) A new extended carbon fiber (CF) tail boom with raised tail motor mount was installed to be parallel with main motor shaft.
Boom and reinforcements to angle are CF tube and strips. The tail boom was extended about 1 inch, has 1mm thick sidewalls and is 10mm in diameter. The CF reinforcing strips are 4mm wide and 0.6mm thick. Horizontal stabilizing rods and vertical fins were removed initially but were reinstalled after about 5 months. The torque from the tail motor twisting the CF boom resulted in stress fractures starting to show up.

The details are discussed in my "Mini How To" blog here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2152658

3) Tail motor and gear assembly are from the Feilun FX052 helicopter. Some more info here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1576
and here Steve_'s post here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2404

With the conversion to a BL main motor, the torque is at the...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Mar 30, 2014 @ 02:53 PM | 5,466 Views
Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on that forum here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1791676

I wrote this blog hoping it might help others when using a 3S batt on the V913. This blog entry is for using a main motor that is designed to run on 3S batts instead of the stock 2S batts. That means I did not use the stock motor or any of the F45, E-1003, or any of the stock brushed 370/380 size 2S voltage rated replacement motors we have been using. They are all designed for 2S voltages.

Finding a 3S voltage rated motor is not the problem in converting a V913 to 11.1 volts. I found some main motors compatible with 11.1 volt. The V912/3/5 PCB cannot operate on 3S voltages. That is still the limiting factor in this conversion. Anyone wanting to fly the V913 on 11.1 volts might want to convert the Rx/PCB over to a compatible one such as found in some of the Feilun FX series of helos. The newest ones such as the FX070C also have a FBL feature that might make them the ideal candidate. But you will need to purchase a Tx compatible with it as well.

A. THE Xtreme 380X vs SUPER 370 MAIN MOTOR
I used both the Xtreme 380 BB motor and the HB Super 370 motor. Even though both motors have improved power over the stock motor when using 3S batts, the 370 Super motor seems to be the more powerful motor. I ran the Super 370 main motor for 10 flts on 3S. In a crash it burned up the PCB. ...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2014 @ 11:46 AM | 4,790 Views
Rule 1. All batteries must have the same number of cells
Rule 2. All batteries must be very close to the same voltage.
Rule 3. Do NOT charge batteries at a rate higher than the manufacturer recommends.

1) Charger (with power supply or DC power source)
2) Parallel charge cable or board
3) Balance cable or board (for multi-cell batteries)

To parallel charge any batteries, you will need a charger with a power supply (can be included or added on) and a parallel charge cable/board. Ready-made parallel charging cables or boards can be bought at your LHS but ProgressiveRC & BuddyRC have them. You will need balance cables if you are going to charge multiple cell batteries. You do not need balance cable for 1S batteries since there is no balance plug on 1S batteries.

FORMULAS: In the following formulas we will be using a 325mAh 2S 7.4volt battery for the examples.

- Determining the Charge Rate (Amps) on charger for a SINGLE battery: Max recommended Charge Rate times battery capacity equals maximum charge amps.
ChRate x mAh = Max Ch Amps.
Example: 5C x 325mAh = 1625mAh or 1.625Amps charge rate

FORMULA 2 - Determining how many mAh do you need to put back in the battery? Assumes battery discharged to LVC.
LVC or 80% of battery capacity = mAh to recharge battery to full capacity.
Example: 325mAh battery
80% of 325mAh (safe discharge to low...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2014 @ 11:01 AM | 5,355 Views
This entry is now incorporated into my Blog as POST #12 in my blog thread entry here on "Reference Source for the WL Toys V913 helicopter" : http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post30546498

Discussion: This procedure is intended for Fixed Pitch (FP) helos pilots to set up their helo to fly a stable hover relatively hands-free. It is for helos with only 2 servo links to the swashplate. You should always trim your helo mechanically before using the electronic trim features of your transmitter (Tx).

Generally Collective Pitch (CP) helos must have a level swashplate. This is NOT the case for FP helos. Many first time FP pilots try to level the swashplate of their FP birds. A level swashplate may, or may not allow your FP bird to hover hands off. What is important is whether or not you can enter a stable hover hands-free with your FP helo, regardless of the swashplate position, level or not.

There are FP conversions helos that have FP heads on CP frames, and have 3 servo links to the swashplate. This procedure does not apply to them or CP helos.

Step 1: Zero out any trim to the Aileron (AIL) and Elevator (ELE) on the transmitter (Tx) controls. If the Tx has sub-trim in a menu or sub-menu setting, zero that out also.

If you are only adjusting for drift, skip to Step 3. This assumes servo arms are already adjusted at 90 degrees to direction of travel on all servos.

Step 2:
(WARNING: If replacing servos, do not attach servo arms to servos, or...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 05:58 PM | 3,644 Views
John Salt's site on Helicopters. Great info for the beginner.

Model Airplane News tips on Electric Flight. More great info for the beginner.

Balancing Main Blades on a Helo
This is my favorite link for a 'how-to' when it comes to a cheap method of balancing main blades on a helicopter. It is a blog entry on Chap1012's blog.

CaptJac's "3D is NOT for everyone" forum on RCGs. The title is self-explanatory.

NoFlyZone's "Beginners Guide to Motor and Prop Selection" forum on RCGs.

FliesLikeABeagle's software to pick motors and props.

Sandancer's Build Log on the Schottky Bus-Tie Circuit. Allows you to use 2 sources for power to the Rx that back each other up. I don't have the skills to build one but wish I did.

HeadUpRC's link to airplane props.

by Ed Anderson
aeajr on the forums

"JST" connector confusion - the real story by John i.e. jj604 on RCGs. John's forum has links to many sources and helps to clear up the battery &...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 05:33 PM | 3,649 Views
There are some terms newbies may not be familiar with so here they are.

The terms here may be proprietary to Horizon Hobby, FlyZone, etc.
BL = BL as in a BL motor vs a Brushed motor
FBL = Flybarless, lacking a flybar
Tx = Transmitter
Txs = Transmitters
Rx = Receiver
Rxs = Receivers

Variations of Models or Rxs sold in various states of completion
RTF = Ready To Fly; comes with a Tx, Rx, battery, charger, servos, motor & ESC (if BL)
BNF = Bind N Fly; comes with a Rx; same as PNP
ARF = Almost Ready To Fly; does not include a Rx; may or may not include servos, motor or ESC
PNP = Plug N Play; comes with servos, motor & ESC (if BL) BUT no Rx
KIT = does not include a Tx, Rx, battery, charger, servos, motor or ESC
Rx-R or RR = Receiver Ready; same as PNP; no Rx
Tx-R = Transmitter Ready; same as BNF; Rx included
Brick = All-in-1 Rx; can be a 4-in-1 or a 3-in-1. Bricks can include the Rx, some servos, an ESC and/or a gyro.

Retailers and/or manufacturers
BG = Banggood.com
FZ = FlyZone.com
HH = HorizonHobby.com
HK =HobbyKing.com
HZ = HobbyZone.com
MM = Miracle-Mart.com
PZ = ParkZone.com
PZ = Ping Zheng, a manufacturer of products sold by HobbyKing

Common acronyms:
WOT = wide open throttle
FFF = Fast Foward Flight
FF = Free Flight or Fast Foward
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 05:18 PM | 3,675 Views
DSM2/DSMX compatible Lemon-Rx 6 Channel 3 axis Stabilizer/Receiver. The stab/Rx comes with or without a satellite receiver. It's $18.90 w/out the sat and $26.20 w/the satellite. I have 4 of these units in 4 of my 5 planes currently. Using a DX6i they are compatible with DSM2. Using my DX18 they are DSMX compatible. These are the reason I was able to move forward in the hobby (fly planes without crashing) and also why I am a Spektrum (DSMX) protocol user.

PowerUp 17g Micro Servo
Best deal ever on a 17g servo. Sold at HeadsUpHobby.com
$5.95 HURC SKU: H-240
Specs: Analog Metal Gear Servo

Wt. 17.5g /062oz;
Torque 3.0kg/cm, 42oz/in 0.13sec @4.8V
Torque 3.5kg/cm, 49oz/in 0.11sec @6.0V
Op Volt 4.8-6V
Dimensions 29.2x 11x 32mm
Wire 6.75in 220mm long (only downside to this servo)
Futaba compatible 3F spline

LiPo Battery Charging Calculator
http://www.progressiverc.com/chargingdemand This link shows the time it takes to parallel charge multiple batteries and gives the charger requirements.

2ZO - RC modular Power Supply John Salt's writeup on this power supply system says it allows you to add multiple Power Supplies to build a system that can use 110 volt power and not break the bank.

5 Outlet Universal Charge Cable from BuddyRC.com has a blank pair of wires plus 4 most popular connectors (EC3, Deans, XT60, 4mm...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 10, 2014 @ 09:31 AM | 3,314 Views
I posted the follwing below on the V912 forum as a recommendation to anyone wanting a cheap programmable Tx. The link to it is at the bottom of this blog entry.

The DH 9116 Tx uses the FlySky protocol used by many of the Chinese makers of helos such as Syma, Double Horse, FlySky, Xieda and WL Toys and I believe many others. It's not a 9X by any means, but will allow the beginner to at least reverse channels and set Expo and end points. It has only 1 memory feature.

"If you want to be able to save any settings and not spend a bunch on a Tx, get the DH9116 Tx for $7 at HobbyPartz. http://www.hobbypartz.com/67p-9116-26.html
The link still works as of 2/28/2015 but it is and has been out of stock for some time. It is best to do a search for it and buy somewhere else if you want to buy one. It's not the best Tx and you may even have to send it back due to poor soldering, or do some yourself, but it is cheap, and better than the V91x Txs for saving settings, setting Dual Rates, end points beyond 100% and reversing channels. But it is only 1 model memory saved.

Just reverse AIL & RUD from the stock settings to fly the V91x helos with it. Here's how: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...35&postcount=2
If you want the entire manual, see page 3 for settings on the DH9116 Tx here: http://customers.skymesh.net.au/~mat...ech_manual.pdf

I have 4, 2 of which I paid for. Two came with an unusable trim on a channel. They sent me a replacement one for free. I use one for my DH9116, one for my V911 & V913, 1 for my Xieda 9958 and one for spare parts."